Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales

Frank Hurley war diary, 28 October 1917-24 January 1918
MLMSS 389 / Box 5 / Item 2

Egypt & Palestine
Private diary of Frank Hurley
1st Anzac Hdqtrs France or 22 Lodge St
Forest Lodge Sydney Australia
From 28th October '17 to 24 Jany 1918

[Page 5]
29th Octr /17.
I omitted an incident which has re-occurred to me from yesterday, and which shows in some degree the morale of our men. Whilst sheltering in a dugout on Westhock ridge, which commanded a fine view of the road leading up, the Boshe opened up a barrage on it. (This road he has under keen observation on account of it being one of the main supply channels). His gunnery precision was admirable and made the road impassable. Some of our ammunition (Australian) drivers however disregarded the risk and whipping up rode through it, the event was thrilling exciting as shells seemed and did lob right alongside them. My companions in refuge also felt the thrill, and cheered and made bets on the Issue. I have seen numerous other similar occurrences which show the fine coolness and nerve of the Australian troops.

[Page 6]

The Australian is admired over here for his fighting qualities and is shoulders above the Tommy. He is an unfathomable individual. Put him in a fight and he will kill and bayonet the enemy in the most callous and unmerciful fashion; but once the enemy is behind our fighting line and a prisoner, he is treated like a pal. I saw only a few days ago one of our guards sharing his ration with a Fritz and he intimated to me, "The poor beggar has’ent had a feed for a fortnight I suppose." And calling his prisoners "My Fritzes" sauntered off more with the air of a guide than a guard.
Having had a fair share of excitement yesterday, I decided not to go into the actual fighting front but remained in Ypres. I enjoyed the pottering about amidst ruins and cellars, composing a picture here and there in (an unknown recently) a pleasant leisurely way. Passing over the

[Page 7]
levelled ruins, one sees here and there smoking orifices, which appear like innumerable fumaroles. There is quite a piquant odour to the smoke, which needs no telling that the occupants in the cellars are preparing grub. Large numbers are now billeted in these subterranean rooms, which are reasonably safe. The enemy however is sending over much fire into Ypres, and I visited a room where 26 were laid out yesterday by one shell.
This morning he shelled heavily the Lille gate section and killed twelve on one corner. Ypres is also subject to Gotha visits and cellar dwellers are busy reinforcing their roofs. There is an observation balloon near the Lille gate and in which I made an ascent to 1000 feet. I had a transcending view over the ruins and over the

[Page 8]
whole salient. The effect of millions of shell craters, now filled with water, was weird in the extreme. The atmosphere unfortunately was hazy and useless for photography. I intend however doing considerable work from this balloon, as it will be of extreme record value, every detail of country being visible. In the distance Paschendale was visible. The scene, with the flickering gun flashes and pall of haze overhanging the battlefield, was impressive beyond words. I intend revisiting Ypres tomorrow to take a series of photographs illustrating the interior of the cellars and billets.
30th October /17
Last night the surroundings suffered a severe bombing from Boche planes. They kept on returning throughout the night and dropping their misiles on camps and congested towns. The ground vibrated with their

[Page 9]
detonation, but by now, we take little heed of night bombing, it is and has become part of a soldier's life.

My car had to go into workshop for the fortnightly overhaul, so I took Joyce with me and together we "jumped" motor lorries for a passage to Ypres. These means of conveyance average 7 miles phr, provided they don't become blocked on the route.

The weather was damnably cold, and the bumping over cobbly road excelled even my Ford. Ahyhow we got to Ypres and soon busied ourselves. Our 2nd Division (A.I.F.) are billeted in Ypres chiefly living in cellars and subterranean passages and basements. Even there they are not safe, for at evening Ypres is heavily bombed and shelled and even the formidable reinforcing of the roofs is insufficient for safety. I took a number of pictures of the men in residence and billets. During the afternoon it came up

[Page 10]

windy and wet. We therefore set to work to find a passage home. We arrived there 6 pm very tired after our jolting. It being the eve of Wilkins' Birthday, we both dined in the village and had an excellent meal (7 Francs each). Developing kept us busy until 1 am (31st). Boche planes are again busy this evening.

31st October /17
Fair 'ell of a night with bombs. The very ground shuddered with them. On my way through Poperinghe to Ypres, I saw the results, several large buildings have been demolished. I visited my friends of the observation Balloon and went up to 1,000 feet. The view however was disappointing owing to the haze, so I descended and put the morning in amongst the billets. Our 1st Division are in Ypres in rest "Its a pity about the rest". As Ypres is subject to severe bombing and shelling, our

[Page 11]
men have taken up their dwelling in cellars, the top being strengthened by piling sandbags and reinforcing with heavy beams and girders. The mist lifted a trifle during the afternoon and I made another balloon ascent to 3,500 feet. From this altitude I had a superb view of Ypres, the fragmentary walls looking like innumerable tombstones. In fact Ypres viewed from that height looks like a vast Necropolis. The view over the battlefield was inexpressibly wondrous and grand. It is just as ones imagination would compare it. Although the visibility was bad, the misty atmosphere enhanced the terrible desolation and reality of this artificial hell, whereon thousands of lives are being expended and the resources of the world thrown. Imagine one's feelings suspended in a tiny rocking cradle, with the

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ruins of Ypres 3,500 feet below, in front, a vast stretch of smoky misty flat desolation, crisscrossed with familiar tracks, and scintillating with innumerable red flashes. Looking back, was a wondrous bird's eye over more peaceful landscapes, but peppered with little round white dots and almost equal sized circular pools of water. The little white dots were an army in bivouac, and the pools, shell craters brimming with the recent rains. Over this vista rolled banks of heavy woolpack cumulus clouds, and a veil of smoke from thousands of smoking chimneys.

Scarcely had we been in the air more than ½ an hour, when a fleet of 17 gothas (Boche planes) came over. They came down from the North and were heavily laden with bombs. When about two miles off they

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began releasing them on battery positions and roadways. We had a wonderful view of the results. As they flew over the landscape, they left a trail of bursting bombs behind them. The ground rose in vast columns and resembled the effect produced by dropping huge stones in a calm pool. The whole fleet came directly over us, and as we could not see them on account of our gas bag, we had a few minutes of anxiety. Expecting to be shot down or ignited by Tracer bullets; we stood on the rim of the basket ready to leap into space in a moment. (Parachutes are always attached). Why they did not shoot us down is more than I can tell, but I felt a trifle sorry, even though they were the enemy, that such a good Target should have escaped.

We remained up a couple of

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hours, spotting on the fire of one of our batteries and telephoning down the results and giving them direction.
One's outlook extended from Nieuport [Nieuwpoort] to Woorslede and Wervick [Wervik], and backwards beyond Poperinghe Poperinge]. At 4 p.m. the mist came over in a heavy veil and blocked further observation. The other observation balloons were being hauled down and we also followed. A cup of hot tea warmed us up immensely.
I am not altogether struck with the balloon observers occupation; it is a cold windy business. He is absolutely helpless if attacked, and is a suspended target for shrapnel and machine gun fire.
We joined the car which was waiting in the square in front of the Cloth Hall, and after a skidding drive got home to Steenvoorde 6 pm. Finished development 1 am.

[Page 15]
1st November 1917 Thursday
Misty day. Went to Ypres to complete my series of that town. Took a series of cellar and dugout pictures in which our troops (1st Div) are at present living. These refuges, whilst been both dingy and dark are reasonably safe. It is impossible at present to live above ground in Ypres owing to the bombing and occasional night barrages. Returned Steenvoorde 6 pm.
2nd Novr.
Winter is evincing itself by short days and fogs. At 3 pm it is almost beyond photographic achievements, so I resort to flashlights, of which I am at present doing a great a deal. I visited a mobile workshop for medium artillery at Abule [?] during the forenoon, and afternoon the 24th and 29th

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1st Anzac Mobile workshops near Reninghelst [Reningelst]. As our 4th Divisional Artillery Is coming out of line, the workshops were filled with ordnance. I secured several fine illustrative plates. The workshops can deal with practically every detail of ordnance but barrel work. Returned to Steenvoorde 3 pm. The weather being impossible for photographic purposes any further.

3rd Novr /17
To Ypres and completed flashllghting in the cellars. Weather bad.
4th Novr.
Great artillery activity during the early morning sounding like the beating of innumerable drums. On account of the bad foggy weather remained in camp all day. This is the first real day off we have had since coming over here.

[Page 17]
Spent most of the day clearing up negatives and writing letters.
5th Novr. 17

Weather dull and misty. Went to Ypres. Climbed to the top of the Cloth Hall also to the risky summit of a ½ cut in two telegraph pole for panoramas.

6th Nov
Weather drizzly remained at Steenvoorde siding up affairs. Interviewed Gen. Birdwood during the morning and showed him my photographs which has pleased him. He congratulated me on their merit.
7th Novr. /17
Wintry weather broke a trifle early morning and gave promise of a

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bright day. Went to Ypres and then through Chateau Wood to Westhock. Things were again lively, in fact this infamous ridge, on account of it being one of the main channels of supply, is always so. We delayed no longer than necessary, therefore, and put in the rest of the day with the Artillery. Roads now are becoming very bad and with the congestion on them, motoring is an ordeal.

Canadians take Paschendale.

8th Novr
The Ford having to go in for repairs I secured a passage to Ypres by "Jumping" numerous motor lorries. The passage by them takes 2 hours and is one prolongation of bumping, sliding and skidding. Arrived at Ypres just before noon. The weather turned out badly so I paid a visit to ray dear friend Eric Webb, his company being in temporary qu-

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arters in the ramparts. We had lunch together and a chat over old times. I then did a little "pottering" amongst the ruins and returned via Motor lorry transport to Steenvoorde.
9th Nov
Car still in repairs. Received orders from Headquarters to proceed to Egypt. An active campaign is there in progress and it has been thought a good opportunity for me to secure historic pictures. At present there is no official photographer with the forces. I am keen however, to do a little more completion work in the Salient, though for all practical purposes it can be considered complete. Major Webb called during the evening and he, Wilkins and self dined in Steenvoorde. Webb stayed with me the night at our quarters.

[Page 20]
Wet and stormy all day. Remained at camping packing up instruments and siding up things generally.
Had dinner with Azzi Webb, Wilkins and the Officers of the 7th Field Engrs. Retrospecting on my work done in the Salient, I conscientiously feel it has been successful and is complete in all -details.
With Wilkins record work practically every branch has been dealt with. We have both applied ourselves diligently to the work and now sense the reward of our endeavours. Wilkins is an excellent fellow, enthusiastic, conscientious and diligent. The innumerable hairs breadth escapes, and our marvellous good luck I only hope may continue. And we return thanks for it.

[Page 21]
11th Nov Sunday Left France
Bean called for me with his car at 11 am and we ran through to Boulogne. We had a particularly enjoyable time in spite of the rains. The beautiful Avenues are ablaze with those gorgeous tints of Autumn, and the leaves thickly strewn on the roadways, were being added to by clouds of others falling. We had an uneventful trip to London (the voyage across Channel being very calm) where we arrived at 7 pm. I put up at my usual quarters in the Imperial Hotel Russell Sq.
12 Novr.
Day spent in interviewing Colonel Griffiths, (at Headquarters) Bean, and Smart and arranging for material supplies. Called in at Daily Chronicle.
(New rig made by Alderton and Son).

[Page 22]
13th Nov /17
Busy as blazes collecting material and arranging up generally. Have managed to induce Headquarters to send me by P and 0 steamer to Port Said. Smart gave me a fine office in Australia House, where I will arrange the pictures for the forthcoming exhibition which will take place March 1918.
14th Nov /175th 16th 17th 18th
Spent time diligently occupied in accumulating materials and wasting time at the war office endeavouring to secure permits to photograph and other unnecessary documents. At present it is extremely difficult to obtain stores of any description, but by dint

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of worrying and presuming on friendships I have at last got all in order. I am to leave by P and 0 Malta tomorrow.
19th Left by train at 11.25 am for Tilbury and after passing through the usual formalities finally boarded the Malta. Towards evening we slowly dropped down stream and in the morning anchored off Deal.
20th Novr /17
Here we lay all day and at dark crept out to Plymouth.
The view shoreward was particularly fine, the silhouette of the land being broken up by a number of powerful searchlights scouring the skies for hostile aircraft.

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21st Novr.
Steaming along \with the land dimly on our starboard, a patrol came along side and ordered us into Weymouth. Evidently submarines were active outside for all shipping was deflected into this port.

Our cargo consists of Guncotton and other explosives for Palestine, so every precaution is being taken to evade submarines, with this valuable shipment. At dusk an order enabled us to proceed to Plymouth, where we arrived at 4 a.m. and dropped anchor outside the Port.
22nd Nov
The Port is enclosed by a steel net and mines, the entrance being guarded by a mined boom. At evening the boom is closed and vessels are compelled to remain outside. Several wireless alarms intimated the not over

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distant presence of "Subs" during the passage, but we sighted nothing.
A large number of big ships are riding at anchor, and evidently will be part of the convoy of which we are to form a unit. We have no definite sailing time at present, but as an immense quantity of mails have been put on board we expect to be off tomorrow.
It amused us greatly to observe the extraordinary patterns and colors painted on the ships hulls to deceive ''Subs''. This weird "camouflaging" gave them the appearance of floating circus craft. It is intended to deceive enemy gunners by creating a false impression as to a vessels size and speed. Personal observation makes one doubt its efficacy, especially if the sun is behind the vessel. One of my cabin companions is a Padre from the Western front, and I have found him an interesting and agreeable companion.

[Page 26]
22 Nov /17

The war has entirely changed the outlook of the clergy and we have engaged in debate over its prospective issue. It has broadened the clerical outlook, expanded their horizon, and brought them in touch with what they lacked, the raw human element.

23rd Nov /17
Remained in Plymouth Harbour during the day awaiting the completion of coaling of the convoy. No one is allowed on shore. We are full up with passengers, all male, except a few Sisters bound for Bombay. It is rumored we are to leave port to-morrow.
24th Nov /17
At 10 am. an order was sent out for the convoy to proceed to sea, and the line of great ships

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hauled up their anchors and proceeded through the channelway to the open sea. We are made up of twenty merchantmen, averaging from 4,000 tons upward. Our escort is a large auxiliary cruiser (The Armadale Castle) and six destroyers. All the merchant vessels are armed with guns varying from 4.2 up to 6 inch.
One of the most impressive sights I have yet seen, was this great line of fine vessels proceeding to sea, past the Eddystone, in majestic file, that even must have terrorised the most audacious submarine lurker.
It thrilled one to see old England's might still proudly ploughing the seas in dignified defiance, and one's admiration warmed for these skippers and men, who play their great share in their country’s work.

[Page 28]

Great deeds are done here on the seas, and the greater the deeds because they are so little known and so little rewarded. It is to these men of the merchant service, that the country and army should take off their caps, for their dauntless courage and unselfish effort.

Their unceasing vigilance and indifference to personal risk, has kept open the gateway of commerce, and made possible the duration of war, by carrying on the vital overseas transport and keeping united our island home and scattered empire. It is in such men that the power of the British nation lies. Germany with her military dogma can never breed such men as British Sailors.

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After leaving Eddystone we encountered heavy N.W. weather, which increased to a moderate gale. The vessels took up formation in five lines of four abreast, with the destroyers on the flanks. We look capable of meeting and combating anything in fair open fight, our speed will be about ten knots.

25th Novr.
To keep 20 vessels in a fleet without scattering, and in such a night as last, seemed beyond possibility. Heavy seas and wind continued all night, but this morning 20 vessels still were visible, and by daybreak had reformed their ascribed formation. In the heavy weather the sight was thrilling. All the

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vessels are heavily burdened which caused them to plunge and labor in the heavy sea. Owing to our unruly motion, and storing conditions, very few passengers have put in an appearance. We are steering an elusive course, and by dead reckoning should be, somewhere off the S W Coast of Ireland. Our approximate course has been W by Nth and we are making for Gibraltar!

During dinner I had a note passed in to me from one of the Engineers inviting me along to his cabin. Accepting the invitation, I discovered the sender to be none other than an old friend, Mabey, I last saw him in Sydney four years ago.

26th November 17
Weather calmed and with it a reappearance of the greater number of “Mal-de-mers"

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our Westerly course up till to-day was changed to Sth at noon. During the night six of our convoy branched off on their respective routes. The vessels keep remarkably well together, their synchronised speeds scarcely altering any of the ships positions.
The passengers have christened thern various names apropos to their camouflaging designs. "George Robeyn has a remarkable [eye and eyebrow shape] design on the bows typifying that character, The Tiger, net only on account of his stripes, but also because of an episode in which that vessel charged furiously down on us, escaping a collision by a hundred yards or so. The Barber is suitably represented and also the Zebra finds a place.
The efficacy of camouflaging is questionable. As far as I personally can judge it does not affect the visibility of vessels one iota. Comparing a camouflaged vessel
(over)

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26th Nov /17
with a ship painted neutral color I could not differentiate. If the sun’s light comes from behind the vessels, they both present identical targets.
27th Novr /17
Good weather and bright moonlight last night. This latter, one regrets, as while we would make an excellent target, a submarine would be almost invisible. Give me dark nights and storm. These conditions hamper submarine operations. Life aboard monotonous as we seem to have a cargo of unsociables.

28th 29th
Calm weather (and 29th) bright glorious sunshine. Ships keep remarkably well together. Noon 29th course due E. and vessels opened out to full speed. Rumor hath it that

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there is a fleet of 9 submarines off the entrance to Gibraltar. During the evening a convoy of four destroyers and two other cargo vessels made their appearance and now escorted us. Played several games of deck quoits, with Major Weir and finished reading "The Marne -- and After". [A companion volume to “The retreat from Mons”]
30th Novr /17

And as we steam through the Straits of Gibraltar, I make this entry in my diary on the last day of the month. Glorious calm weather is now with us and our fleet of 16 large vessels and escorts scarcely seem to be moving through the calm seas. We sighted the Spanish Coast, a blue misty line down on the horizon just before 9 am, and at 2 pm were off the entrance to Gibraltar. Our great convoy smoking up and making the passage of the Straits, with the ragged coasts of Spain to the

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north and the barren jagged outlines of Africa to the south, thrilled every Britisher aboard. Here were we, a fleet of armed merchantmen, ploughing the very waters that seem to be sacred with the name of Nelson. Ay, the sea is still Britannia's realm, and the threat of William Hohenzollern to drive her from her realm, is more vain than Van Tromp with all his brooms.

We sighted and had a fine view of Tangiers; and just as the sun dipped in a blaze of copper burnished glory were off the famous rock, Gibraltar.

I must admit it did not impress me deeply, but one's impressions won't undergo a speedy change, could they but secure a glimpse of this great fortified rock, whose great artillery sentinels guard the way to the East.

We experienced a glorious sunset,

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and the night as bright as day. This latter we would willingly exchange for storm and darkness as we are now in the hottest submarine area In the Mediterranean.

Had a quiet sing song amongst the "lads" this evening.

1st December 1917 Sunday

Divine Service In the morning by Rev. McNeil. A dogmatic harangue which provided much discussion. Evening, Rev. Curtis held service which was more to the general taste. His broad minded views were ably expressed and contrasted strongly with the narrow outlook of McNeil. X’lent weather. Steam along the Southern Coast of Spain.

2nd 3rd Dcer
Meet with heavy weather and rough seas. I have

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made the acquaintance of Nurse Locke of the Indian A.M.C. She is a delightful companion, sensible and vivacious. Our discussions hasten along the otherwise monotonous hours.
4th
We sighted island just after breakfast, and being in an extremely bad zone for submarines, the ships came closer together and the destroyers actively scouted. We received a wireless S.O.S. of a vessel being torpedoed only five miles off and one the other evening further to the North. A homeward bound convoy passed us during the evening; the going and coming fleets making a magnificent and imposing impression.
5th Decr /17

We left the convoy at 6.30 a.m. and with an escort continued our

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voyage towards Malta (The remainder of the fleet are Eastward bound) Malta was sighted about 11 am and by 2 am [?] we were passing through the entrance to the grand harbor.

From the sea the Island does not impress one, being destitute of trees and prolific vegetation and comparatively flat and rocky. Nearing the Port, one might easily have been deluded into imagining they were entering Watsons Bay, Port Jackson. There lay in the background, the same rocky steepes which characterise Vaucluse, even to the well known outlines of Sth Head. The illusion was completed by the small pilot boat - a duplicate of our Captain Cook. The harbor itself is divided into two bays, small though admirably sheltered and guarded by an imposing series of fortifications. We dropped anchor in an exquisite little harbor

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used by the P and 0 Coy, under the ramparts of one of the batteries, and after having our passports examined, were permitted to go on shore. We lost no time in availing ourselves, and Nurse Locke and I promptly climbed to the nearest hill and lost ourselves midst the maze of battery communications. After a few hours welcome walk around the town we dined at the Westminster Hotel and returned to ship 9 pm.

6th December /17
Passengers were allowed ashore, and there was no scarcity of the small curious double prowed skiffs to ferry them. [Drawing of skiff] ‘Jillock’ and I visited the city and climbed to the outlook of Fort St Elmo from where we had a transcending outlook over the grand harbour and the Blue Mediterranean. The view shoreward (inland), lit by the dazzling sun, altered my ideas

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which I had gained from the seas. Instead, there was a charming Malta, scattered with numerous villages and divided into innumerable little holdings, all under cultivation. Everywhere rose stately spires and domes, dominating the villages, and in fact forming on one the impression, that before one lay the Kingdom of the church and the villages servile to its domination. Away on the distant horizon, looking over the circumjacent lowlands loomed a stately array of spires. The domes and minarets of the Old City - Citta Vecchia . As there is an hourly rail service, we left by a quaint affair made up of four tightly packed 3rd Class Carriages and a 1st. The way to Citta Vecchia lay through well and closely cultivated lands, each little allotment being walled in by stone barricades and growing crops of wheat, barley, onions, potatoes etc.

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I was surprised at the magnificence of the various railway stations, and the magnificent condition in which the permanent way was upkept. Alighting after the 25 minute run, one is immediately seized upon by numerous small boys, all anxious to act as guides to the sights, and the pestering cabby. These are only to be got rid of by threatening, or one will be followed by a pack, crying me miserable, me no father, no mother, no aunt, and ending up at the end of their genealogical tree, through sheer want of breath. From the hills on which Citta Vecchia is built, one looks back over a great draught-board pattern expanse of small holdings here and there crisscrossed by fine well kept roads. Citta Vecchia claims great antiquity, even as far back as 700 B.C. It is surrounded by formidable stoneworks which have seen great historical happenings,

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but the great attraction of this fine old city is the Cathedral. This magnificent edifice which is of the Corinthian and Composite orders, was commenced during 1697. The designs were by the Maltese Architect, Lorenzo Gara [Gafa].
The interior exceeds, for stately magnificence, and adornment anything I have seen. The walls and chapels, of which there are six latter (three on each side)
are covered with rare marbles. The floors are almost entirely covered by wonderful mosaic slabs placed over the tombs of various dignitaries. The pavement of the crucifix chapel is especially grand, being executed in various colored marbles, its intricate design resembles at a short distance a rich carpet. All the Altars are of rare marble, the high altar being singularly fine for its elegance and rare stone. The vaulted

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roof and magnificent Cupola are highly ornated with frescoes by famous artists. Its walls are hung with many valuable paintings and there are a great many beautiful pieces of Statuary. Altogether it is a treasury of art, elegance, and exquisite workmanship, and fills one with admiration for the artists who produced and executed it.

We also visited some neighboring catacombs of great antiquity, and saw many other interesting objects notably lacemaking. Returned by road, a delightful walk through villages and agricultural country of eight miles. Aboard ship 9 pm.

7th December

Had a very delightful drive to the prehistoric ruins of Hagiar Kim [Qim], and Mnaidra [Mnajdra]. The distance of 8 miles took us through interesting villages

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and agricultural lands, so that, we had a rare opportunity to study the methods and mannerism of the natives.

Hagiar Kim [Qim] is a monumental remains of a great temple. Erected by Neolithic man and is in an excellent stage of preservation. The Temple is divided into a series of chambers, walled in by immense slabs of hewn rock. Each chamber contains a rudely formed Altar, and holes are still evident in the walls, to which the animals or creatures to be sacrificed were secured.

It is a wild imposing place, erected in harmonious surroundings, high on the cliffs and looking out over the sea. Mnaidra [Mnajdra] was evidently the dwelling palace of the priests and is in a considerably better state of preservation.

We lunched on the cliffs and returned by native garry, a conveyance indigenous to Malta and quite comfortable travelling.

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8th December

Visited San Antonio: interesting on account of its exquisite gardens. Malta is almost destitute of shrubs and trees, so that a walk amongst the prolific vegetation and old
familiar plants was indeed welcome. During the afternoon walked to the village of Musta, and inspected the fine church there. The fine exterior with its stupendous dome, belies the interior which is rather tawdry and ordinary. As there is no timber grown on the island, the houses are built entirely of stone. The stone itself is a soft sandstone, easily worked and as the Maltese are expert masons their houses are well and substantially erected. Unfortunately the architecture is rather primitive, being just what a child would devise from wood blocks. They are perfectly rectangular and in most cases

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devoid of any ornamentation. The streets are wonderfully well kept, and scrupulously clean. As the residences are surrounded by high walls, they convey the impression of gaols and fortifications.

From the main thoroughfares, narrow laneways meander amongst the houses, and as they are nearly always deserted, give the place an uncanny quiet. One seems to walk amidst the dead; an effect conveyed and heightened by the quaint funereal headdress worn by the women folk. This curious shroud is of black material, spans over the head, by an invisible frame support, and drapes like a loose flowing cape to the knee. It is unauthentically asserted to have been worn as a protection from the French soldiery, during their occupation of Malta, but I can confidently assert that the women of Malta must have been more beautiful then, than now. Returned to ship 9 pm.

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(9th December. 1917
(10th Decr

Spent with Lillock touring and walking prodigious distances amongst villages and agricultural lands, inspecting Churches, Temples and prying into things generally. On return to ship we learned of a vessel being torpedoed just off the island and no doubt the activity of subs in the surrounding waters has kept us cooped up in the Harbor. Rumors as to sailing times alter hourly but we expect to be off on the morrow.

11th
Left Malta at 4 pm and at dusk passed through the Straits between Gozo and the Main Island. We were here joined by another vessel, and with two destroyers as escorts made for the open sea in the

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darkness.
12th. 13th. 14th.
Beautiful calm weather with occasional bursts of rain and sun. The voyage is nearing the end as we expect to arrive at Port Said tomorrow.
14th Dec /17
Cloudy, squally, and intermittent sunshine, sea dead smooth. Just before noon we witnessed a remarkable phenomenon - a great waterspout. In its incipient stage we noticed a narrow column of cloud, drawn down from the main body by a terrific whirlwind, and a few moments later the sea began to boil and spume furiously directly beneath this column. The spray and water was sucked up into the cloud column, which assumed many fantastic forms, as the upper winds deflected the whirl-wind. The display which was a

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particularly imposing one lasted over 15 minutes.

15 December /17
At 2 p.m. we sighted Port Said and by four pm dropped anchor inside the breakwater. Almost immediately a large number of native boats put off clamoring for fares. After passing through the usual examining of passports, I had all my great quantity of paraphernalia transferred to the Customs. Here I deposited instruments and materials, taking only immediate necessities on to Cairo. I never in all my life saw such a multitude of clamoring useless beings as the Porters at Port Said. Each tries to outdo the other in noise and apparent effort, so that nothing is accomplished and everything hopelessly mixed up. With my 20 pieces of baggage, I felt helpless. I finally managed, however, to unravel the tangle, and caught 6.30 pm

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train for Cairo, my friend Maybey from “the Malta" bidding me adieu. Unnecessary to say I felt damnably lonely, an utter stranger in these parts, and especially as I had many friends on the Malta. I had the good fortune also to make the acquaintance of a Nurse Locke, who was a charming companion during the voyage and from whom I was very sorry to part.

On arrival at Cairo I took up residence at the Continental Hotel.

16th December /17
Very cold last night. The hotel people not yet having put the winter covering on the beds: I have had this rectified and find my present quarters very comfortable. The hotel is sumptuous and the Cuisine excellent. It is quite a relief not to be cut down to a sugar ration and to have good bread. I reported to Headquarters during the morning and set about preparing a

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16th Decr. Sunday
plan of campaign. The object of my visit is to secure a series of publicity and record pictures and also to appoint photographers to carry on this work when I leave. I do not intend remaining longer than six weeks in Palestine.

Afternoon went for a drive around Cairo; but as everything has been such a sudden change of environment, I have not secured impressions, other than hazy ideas of bustle, noise and especially smell. Of red fezzed natives and veiled women, bright sunshine and a dreamy Kaleidoscopic impression of the great Nile through the palm trees.

A pleasant glimpse of Eastern life of which more anon. In other words it has sharpened my desires to see more of it.

17 Decr
Morning to Headquarters and arrange for assistants. I have secured

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two, both promising young fellows, one Sergeant Major Edmunds and the other, who will act as my batman pro tern, Bugler Johnson. Both have had a fair amount of experience and should they prove satisfactory will be appointed to carry on the work.
During the early afternoon I went by tram to the Pyramids at Gizeh [Giza]. I secured the services of a guide by the name of "Mozes". An entirely unnecessary person. Still one has to pay for experience, and the £1 it cost me to look over the pyramids I did not grudge. If it had cost me a hundred I would have paid it unhesitatingly. The tram run was most enjoyable - Mozes discoursing on all sorts of superfluous and uninteresting subjects rather disturbed my meditations, and when I told him to shut up, he apologised profusely and was quiescent

[Page 52]
for about three minutes. Then he would burst into other eruptions of verbiage, so I threatened to dismiss him, which threat had the desired effect. The way to Gizeh [Giza] is very delightful, with the overflow waters of the Nile on the left and the shaded road on the right. This road itself is a study; a diorama of Native life, of donkeys and camels laden with produce and sugarcane, of ragged arabs and noisy children and an occasional misplaced motor. Before one realises it, he is there. Stepping from the tram there confronts you those great things you have read about and what you have been longing to see since childhood. They are the great pyramids. The mighty monuments of dim ages that have made men gaze in wonderment and awe ever since the days their clay creators created them. I was just one of the millions that feel that thrill

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of admiration for those old peoples whose monuments alone are the testimony of their greatness, and who themselves have become as the desert sands. Yet here the pyramids stand, untouched by time, and as indestructible as the very sands which surround them. And there is the Sphinx. Gazing in solemn silence into the future, into the rising sun, and behind it the thronging ages which days are countless as the desert sands. And what I thought as I gazed into that pensive staring face, are all those crowding years, compared with eternity? Why was ever man created to live but for a moment? Surely such objects as these can alone convey some slight impression to the senses of Time and Space. Kingdoms rise and fall, Nations become but names, but still the Sphinx gazes on , heedless, inscrutable, and unwrinkled.

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Go the Sphinx by moonlight and you will live with its ancient peoples. Let your imagination but wander, and you will repeople the old temples, and hear the chants rise sweetly and faintly.
After all you sigh for “tis but the voice of the desert wind whispering to you of buried cities and remote antiquity and then you muse to yourself - what is destiny and human fate?”
There is always a clamoring crowd of arabs and bedouins near the Pyramids, some discussing the strong points of their camels (these latter are very obvious) others wanting to act as guides but most wanting backsheesh. Absurd as the regulations are, they compel one to take three guides when climbing, or inspecting the interior. They more often get in ones way, and make a prodigious

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puffing, thinking to increase one's estimate of their services. Still they are amusing, and being regulations, must be endured. From the summit of Cheops, there is an awe inspiring outlook across the rolling illimitable sands of the Libyan desert, and East, far over the agricultural lowlands to the Nile Delta, which calls to mind a tracery of silver threads. I had a great inclination to visit the interior of the great Pyramid - "Cheops", and having secured the three guides, necessary, satisfied myself.
With one of the guides (?) leading and bearing an absurd toy Christmas candle, another holding a hand in the front and the third my remaining hand in the rear, (thank heavens I had no more). We descended a very slippery stairway, thence along a narrow tunnelway, (bent double) up stairways and through various chambers, alleged to have been the

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burial places of famous Egyptian queens etc., until we entered a large apartment, the resting place of King Cheops. It certainly looked like it. There still remained the huge atone coffin (which some genius professor declared to be an indestructible measure of capacity) and the dark atmosphere characteristic of a vault. The talking guide informed me we were now in the very heart of the Pyramid. Certainly one gains a more powerful impression of the colossal nature of the work, by the huge stones here employed. The roof of this chamber is spanned by immense blocks, which are even larger around the walls. Small pieces of magnesium ribbon caused the granite facets to sparkle like a million diamonds. One of the guides offered to tell me my

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fortune from a design he drew in the sand on the floor. Being one of the conventional sights, I allowed him to ramble on. The evasive answers were highly amusing, and put me in mind of that mental problem of adding and subtraction, and taking away the number you first thought of etc. Anyhow these swarthy brigands seated on the floor of King Cheops tomb, telling me fortunes, to the dancing light of a Christmas candle was just about the most incongruous sight I have seen. I scared my guides with my laughter, for they made a hurried exit. I wonder if the ghost of old Cheops still haunts his den, and how he appreciates his vault being turned into a house of fortune?

As my guides neared the entrance they asked me for backsheesh for

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their magnesium ribbon, and fortune telling. I gave them a couple of Bob for their entertainment (which was certainly worth it). They evidently then anticipated me a good mark no doubt thinking I would be induced by their number and environment to yield up more of the shining perquisite "Not so thou". James Francis did quite a remarkable High Kicking performance, which so impressed his guides that it was not long before the narrow point of light at the entrance grew larger and larger, and we emerged into God's own sunshine again. I had afternoon tea at the fine Hotel - Mena House. Thoroughly enjoying each nibble, and gloating with admiration on the mighty achievements of those ancient peoples. The tram ride back to Cairo was just as

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interesting, for I had a transcending glimpse of sun gilded palm trees reflected in the waters of the Nile, end the red sun sinking far beyond the Libyan desert with the blue grey silhouettes of the Pyramids being wreathed by the ascending vapors of evening.

18th Decr /17

At Headquarters morning, and arranged to leave Cairo by train tomorrow evening. Afterwards visited that Treasury of the Ancient Egypt, the Museum of Egyptian
Antiquities. This glorious treasure house is worth spending a month in. Here lie many of the secrets that have enabled us to peer into the lives and customs of the ancient Egyptians, and to unravel the mysteries of obscure antiquity. The jewel
room is especially fine. Great credit reflects on

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the museum administration for the superb arrangement of the exhibits, and the care exercised in protesting and cataloguing them.

Afternoon I drove to the Citadel, from which lofty outlook one has a magnificent view of Cairo. From this aspect one sees little of the European Cairo, but looks out over the old town with its flat roofs, mosques and thousand spires, Away in the distant West the pryamids loom up like four volcanic cones.

On my return, I wandered through the narrow streets of the Native quarter and had a rare enjoyable time watching the workmen fashioning their wares. The tools used are most primitive. The wood turner interested me greatly, his primitive lathe being but a couple of centres mounted on a wooden base. The work was rotated by a small boy who drew backwards and forwards a large

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bow, the string of which was carried in a loop around the end of the work. The turner with his right hand also assisted the lad, whilst his left and a big toe held the turning Gouge. The work however produced by this primitive device equalled anything that a modern machine might do. Time is of little importance to these people, and so their wages are but trifling, they may spend weeks on a small piece of metalwork which when completed, will bring them in a pound or less. Every turn a new picture is presented; every shop is a picture, every face a study: And the colors! Look how the evening sun blazons that mosque dome and spires. See how it reflects in the pools made by the morning's rain. How quaint and beautifully oriental it all is. Make way! Make way! Oh my mother, to the right! Father

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move to your left. This is the cry of the Camel driver (all in arabic) as he wends his way through the narrow laneway. His beast is laden with sugar cane. You can just see its head and feet. As its swaying burden brushes past, the bazaar vendor shouts back warnings to its owner. Everyone is so good natured and humored that I was wrapt in enjoyment.

What a beautiful study in Color that fruit vendor presents. The golden oranges, figs and other fruits harmoniously arranged on colored papers invite you to buy. And the moving population! What a variety of tints and colors they are bedecked in. Yet all are arranged so subtly as to be unconsciously pleasing. The women alone are dressed in black. Their big flashing eyes sparkling above

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their Yashmaks, and their ankles fettered with silver. They are not only enchanting themselves, but they assist in producing that air of mystery which is the lure of the East.

19th Decr /17
Completed arrangements for departure and will leave by train 6.30 pm for Port Said.
Afternoon visited the Metal bazaar Cairo. I saw the whole process of Damascene work and also other styles of inlaying. Visited the stores of Hatoun and Coy in the Mousky, which is itself in a Museum of present day art. The intricate detail of the Meesharebeia [Mashrabiya] and filigree is here seen at its best. I saw a wonderful bedstead, inlaid with mother of pearl flower designs, which cost £750. A masterpiece of skill and unlimited patience.

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The narrow byways off the Mousky ring with the click of the innumerable little hammers of engravers. Even tiny boys and girls are pressed into service, which to them or the best of them, has ceased to be regarded as work for it is their art. The intricacies of some of the designs is bewildering; and considering the work is all done with a tiny chisel and hammer, some of the pieces must have taken a month to complete. Here also is the gold bazaar. Much of the work is reproductions of the ancient Egyptian designs and are perfect though inferior facsimilies .

Left Cairo at 6.30 pm. Dined on board the train and arrived at Port Said 11.30 pm. Put up at the Eastern Exchange Hotel.

20th Decr /17 Thursday
Morning passed my goods through customs and had same placed on Goods train for Kintara [Kantara]. Had look

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over town and walked out along the De Lesseps Breakwater. Port Said is extremely uninteresting, flat and nothing to see beyond the native quarter, which is "out of bounds". However, I enjoyed a stroll along the beach shell collecting and a turn of the Quay where there are a large number of vessels anchored.
Left Port Said 6.30 pm and arrived at Kentara [Kantara] 8.15. Here I was joined by my sergeant Edmunds, and Johnson, and by the courtesy of the R.F.C. was conveyed to Kentara [Kantara] E by tender. We were compelled to remain there pending the departure of the Goods train 6.30 next morning.

21st Decr /
Damned cold night spent on Kentara [Kantara] Station which we left at 6.30 am in a train made up of all sorts of army stores and niggers. Almost immediately after leaving

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Kentara [Kantra] (which by the way is an important railhead, being used as a landing depot for ships coming up by way of the Canal) .The line runs through dismal desert covered with a sparse shrub. The outlook however across the desert of Sinai was remarkably beautiful, on account of the fine sunrise; and although the night was extremely cold, it began to warm up almost immediately with the rising sun. The road to El Arish is monotonous and uninteresting, being practically desert the entire way. The railroad across this desert is a magnificent achievement, being constructed under tremendous difficulties and is the sole channel of supply for the fighting force which is over 300,000. The water problem has been solved, by the laying down of pipes which bring the supply from the Nile up to the present railhead, a distance of over 230 miles. At El Arish

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we had to change over our goods to a troop train on account of congestion delays. This was the most exciting part of the journey, as we had to shift out two truckloads of niggers, which was only accomplished by the aid of the boot and sticks. We arrived at Kelab 6.30 pm and I straight away reported to G.H.Q. I much appreciated the kindness shown me by Lieut. Hodgkinson, who put us up and assisted me generally.
22nd Decr /17
Went to Gaza by car and had a look over the ruins of the town which has been practically demolished by shell fire and by the Turks looting every scrap of timber. The country is such as to favor a defensive campaign, especially as the enemy occupied all the high hills and salient ridges. Roads are in frightful condition beyond Gaza on account of

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recent rains. By an ingenious idea of laying down wire netting on the desert sands, excellent roadways have been made as far as Gaza; beyond here the nature of the ground changes to a clay which has made this arrangement impracticable. As G.H.Q. are now more than 50 miles behind the lines, I have decided to push on to Aust. Hdq tomorrow evening. Transport is my most difficult problem, there being great scarcity of cars and the railways are decidedly erratic. Owing to the bulk of my equipment and distances to be covered Camel or horse travelling is almost out of question.
23rd December /17
Morning spent writing letters and afternoon between writing, musing and looking out over the barren expanse of sandhills that surround G.H.Q.

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G.H.Q. is composed of a series of wood huts and canvas tents, scattered over a wide expanse so as to be more secure against bombing. I left G.H.Q. at 10 pm and embarked on board the goods train with all my impedimenta at 11 p m bound for Deir Sienade [Sineid].
24th Decr /17 Xmas Eve

Very unpleasant ride last night on the "goods", as we were compelled to camp under a number of water carts and the weather blew up frightfully cold and windy. We had alternate snatches of sleep and nightmares, owing to the innumerable bumpings, buffetings and stoppages. We finally succeeded in reaching Deir Sienade [Sineid] about 2 am and were bumped into a siding to await the pleasure of the unloading gangs. This enabled us to get a little sleep, but it was bitterly cold and windy. I more often laid awake dreaming of home and fair memories and tried to

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24th Decr Xmas Eve 1917

feel content. Daylight was thankfully welcomed and I set about locating our whereabouts. I discovered we had been shunted on to the ordnance siding about a mile from the Station. With my equipment of nearly ½ a ton I was at an entire loss how to transport it this distance as there is absolutely no transport available. Through the courtesy of a brother officer who lent me his two Ford box cars, I was relieved of this anxiety and placed my paraphernalia alongside the stopping platform. Deir Sienade [Sineid] is an important railhead and distributing point and there are immense stores of rations and fodder and army requirements. Egyptian labor is employed extensively, in fact it would be impossible to do with it. They are very slow workers,
but the work goes on through sheer excess of numbers. Their earning is 1/- per day and rations found.

The goods train in which I was to

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entrain for Esdud, 20 miles distant was timed to leave Deir Senled [Sineid] at 9 am but after making countless false starts, left at 7 p m !! We with our burden were camped in an open troop truck, and I thought what a curious fitting place to be spending Xmas eve in contrast to others I have spent under circumstances equally as
incongruous.

It was damnably cold and windy and the arrival at Esdud was welcomed heartily (Esdud is at present the"xisting” rail head. We were just in time to place our stores in the R.T.O’s tent under shelter when we had a heavy downpour. I was chagrined to find, that owing to the impassable roadways, transport could not be forwarded for me to take me to the Desert Mounted Corps Headquarters near Ramleigh so I was compelled to seek the very kind and hospitable shelter of the Y.M.C.A. Secretary's tent. The roadways are impassable through the past rains and more threatens to fall.

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25th December Xmas Day 17.
Another Christmas day has passed -: another filled with curious happenings, that has characterised mine for the last eight years. I had only been snugly asleep on the floor of the Secretary's tent for a few hours, when the threatening pent up rains, which had made numerous attempts to fall for the past week, came down in full deluge. The Y.M.C.A. tents for convenience had been pitched on a large plain contiguous to the railway, and the soil being of a clayey nature, the water was unable to get away. I awoke with the din of falling rain, and was thankful for the hospitable shelter above us, but putting my head out, I discovered that the waters had overflowed the trench, and were coming inside. I gathered up my valise and awakened the Secretary. Lighting up we found the waters rapidly rising, so I pitched camp on the

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table. Noises from the big marquee tent informed us that the occupants were also in a similar condition and were hurriedly clearing out for the sand hills. We slept interruptedly the remainder of the night, on account of the high wind which threatened to demolish the tents. At daybreak, pent up waters on the otherside of the railway embankment broke through, and added to the flooded surroundings. It came down towards the tents and rose two feet. From the table, I had an amusing lookout over objects floating on a great lake and a line of straggling soaked men making for the highland. And this I reflected is Xmas Day in the Holy Land! It was decidedly miserable, plodding with a crowd of "Gipy" carriers, through the deep waters and mud to a sandy slope, where I erected a

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small bivouac and transferred our belongings. An examination of the big tents, disclosed in one the marquee a number of men drawn up on boxes and crates surrounded by the flood, and a wag at the piano playing "There is a happy land far far away". In the store tent, things were more serious, as the waters had damaged a large quantity of perishable goods. Still there was nothing to be done, and Mr. Moodie (The Secty) and myself erected an improvised tent near our bivouac for a cookhouse and for some of his staff. The rest of the day we spent in the little bivouac, looking out over the flooded waters and to the far Judaea hills, reasonably dry and comfortable and consoling ourselves - that It might be worse - Gee how many times I have said the same words on previous Xmases! The waters have swept away

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considerable sections of the railroad, so that all rail traffic is suspended. The roads are also practically impassable being deep in mud and flooded. Evening saw us laughing at the mornings experiences, comfortable in the improvised Cookhouse and partaking of an excellent meal which Mr. Moodie’s Xlent cook had prepared.
26th December /17
Weather improved, and the glorious sun set about drying up our soaked garments and cheered things up again. The waters on the plain subsided but left a horribly sticky mud behind. During the afternoon I went for a ramble over the sandhills and to the camps of the Camel Transport Corps. The boundless stretches of great rolling sand drives dotted here and there with white tents and rows of Camels tethered out in rows impressed me greatly with its uniqueness. On a hill close by stands the native village, commanding a glorious

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expansive view over the desert, and the lowlands away to the Judaea Hills. The colors are wonderful. The whole country is a blaze of beautiful tints. The distant delicate blue mist that veils the hills, the brilliant blue of the sky, the emerald of the prickly pear hedges, the brown sands and the gorgeous colors in which the people dress.
27th December
It is surprising how comfortable the tiny bivouac in which Mr Moodie, the Y.M.C.A. Secty and myself are living can be. I mess with his staff who are all scotsmen, thoroughly good fellows and extremely amusing. During the morning I had a great surprise for Gullett came down to meet me. We both visited General Cox of the 1st brigade Lt Horse and afternoon went over the sand dunes, to the sea about 2 miles away. No walk

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could have been more enjoyable. The sand compacted by the recent rains was good walking; its moving dunes assuming quaint shapes by wind action rolled in great golden billows to the distant horizon. Down on the beach, the blue waters of the Levant were making their music amongst the millions of shells that carpet the strand. The beach Is deep with them, their varied colors sparkling in the sunshine like innumerable prisms. Gee! it was beautiful. Along the beach they were unloading a large steamer, she was laying out to sea, and scores of surf boats were busy plying to and fro. It was a scene of indescribable bustle and noise, thousands of natives were there unloading, manning the boats and packing the camels or stowing the cargo in great dumps. It is a great boon that we have the ocean so close, as the line is still held up and communication with supply sources would

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otherwise be severed. Returned across the desert, there being a wonderful sunset of which I took a number color plates.
28th December 1917
A limber from Headquarters (now at Deiran) came down to convey myself and equipment from Esdud, to thither, last night, and at 10 am this morning we were en route. The road is frightfully cut up and muddy from the recent rains, through which the springless limbers bumped and ploughed a foot deep. Nevertheless the journey was filled with interest at every turn. No conception or comparison can be formed between the campaigns of Egypt and France. In the former, transport presents the greatest difficulty and the maintaining of lines of communication generally. Disregarding the magnificent engineering fests of the railroad, Horse, Camel, Mule and Donkey are the means

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of locomotion. One sees very few motor lorries. Stores and ammunition are dumped by the railway at various distributing railheads, from where they are conveyed by quadruped transport to the various units. At intervals along the coast, supplies are also landed from vessels anchored about ½ a mile out to sea, and the dumps are distributed generally by Camels. This means that we keep up thousands of these animals for transport and during the journey we passed endless trains on the move. Great concentration camps are dotted over the sand hills, the beasts being tethered out in long rows, which at the distance look like the tree lines of an orchard. Coming towards us are numerous groups of the tiniest donkeys imaginable laden with great sacks

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of oranges. Their Bedouin owners are dressed in wondrous colors, and look far wore capable of conveying the loads than their minute quadrupeds. It is astounding what these donkeys will carry. Here comes a fine example of indolent laziness typical of these tribes - a great fat bearded object, that must weigh at least 15 stone, riding on the haunches of a tiny white animal so small that the "Gypo" trails his feet on the ground! The Wadies (creeks) have been running bankers, during the recent rains, and our limbers bumped into their slimy beds axles deep, still it was all so very unique to me, that I forgot the discomfort, and the juicy oranges and "bully" gave it the air of a picnic. Almost every object one sees, has some biblical history or recent association - (here and there are great dumps

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left by the Turks during his retreat) that held me fascinated. We passed through the interesting village of Yebna, built on the top of a lofty rise, its mud hut and walls looking from the plain like a swallow rookery. The prickly pear bounded roadway that leaves the village is alive with the inhabitants; women bearing water beakers on their heads as they did from the times of history. The men with their asses carrying immense loads, and the noisy children crying for backsheesh. Just at the foot of the village is the well. A quaint wooden construction that creakingly raises the water, is actuated by a number of "Gypos" walking in a circle and pushing a beam around, this in turn causes a chain of wooden buckets to lift and empty the water into a trough,

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from which it is drawn by the women. The whole scene is a riot of color, and the chanting shanty of the labourers as they did their rounds, harmonising with the babbling of the womenfolk, gave just the right touch of life to this interesting little picture.

About 5 miles from Yebna we drew into Deiran where the Desert Mounted corps at present have their headquarters. There is an extraordinary contrast between this pretty little village and the native villages through which we have been passing. Its inhabitants are principally Jews, and their clean well built houses at once transported me to the outlying areas of Mosman Bay Sydney. The walls are of stone, generally painted white, and are roofed with red tiles. The streets are well kept and avenued with Australian gum trees.

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Australian troops wander in the streets. It is all so Australian and so very incongruous for Palestine. Authority says that the village was modelled and built by the Rothschilds. Desert Mounted Corps are billeted in the various residences, and I admire their selection, for not only have they selected the best of the villages, but they have settled in the finest residences. I took up my residence with a Capt. Bruce. We jointly occupy a room which is part of the residence occupied by an old Rabbi. I have meals with seven other officers, in another comfortable dwelling and we are known as C Mess.

29th December
I was awakened early this morning by the old Rabbi singing and rehearsing his morning prayers. A doleful monotonous chant more like the wailing of a lost

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soul than one of the chosen blessed. At 10 am I started with Major Love and my batman Johnstone to pay a visit to the 10th Light Horse Regt which are in rest close at hand. We had a delightful ride through avenues of prickly pear and by pictorial villages, and visited the battlefield of [El] Mughar. Here the yeomanry made a famous charge and carried on apparently impregnable position, but with great sacrifice. Over forty horses lay here in a small group, and one may still trace the path of that wild and glorious charge by the littered plain of dead horses. We returned t at 7 pm having ridden over fifteen miles. Tomorrow I leave early to visit the third brigade Lt Horse who are now holding the front line at
30th December Sunday

Messed 7.30 am and

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proceeded by motor to Lutan . Thence by Ford Car to our front line position called Khaurbetha Ibn Harith. The ride in the Ford car greatly reminded me of my ‘Cross Australia ride being frightfully rough and stony. At Luton the character of the country suddenly changes and the foothills of the Judea ranges begin. The nature of the soil also alters and in place of sand and clayey loam, rough and weathered limestone is to be observed. The problem, which indeed is a great one, of maintaining supplies in this rocky and mountainous country has been met by our laying down of good tracks for camel and Packhorse transport. The Turk has failed in the campaign chiefly from his neglect to construct adequate communication ways, which have prevented him utilising artillery and by the curtailment of his ammunition and supplies. I stayed with the 3rd Brigade Hdqtrs, General Wilson,

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everybody living in tiny bivouacs beneath the olive trees. During the afternoon I visited, with the General, the front line positions. The country is a series of great limestone hills, terribly rough and impassable but for the bridle tracks we have made. These hills are terraced off so as to hold the soil from being washed away, and give to the hills a curious effect of concentric ridges. The terraces are planted with olive trees, with here and there the fig. As we walked over the country I was surprised to see daisies, narcissus and cyclamen in bloom; the atmosphere was scented with the perfume of the herbs which carpeted the ground, and which I recognised as good old Thyme etc. The opposite ridge I was told was in the occupation of the Turks. I didn't see any; and judging by the numbers of our men holding our position, the enemy forces must

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indeed be feeble It all reminded me of a great picnic. It seemed impossible that hostilities could extend to these quiet gorges and ranges. Now and again the clatter of a machine gun echoed down the valley, and an occasional snipers rifle rang out, but this was all. What enjoyment after the hell of France! We called in at various outposts but all was quiet.

After dinner the boys invited me to their campfire, and asked me to give them a few words about my Antarctic experiences. The novelty of the surroundings impressed me greatly, and I felt, in the interest expressed on the faces around me a reward for the tribulations of the South. It is not everybody who is privileged to sit amongst his own countrymen away out on the Judean hills, with the "Star of Bethlehem" bright in the heavens recounting his adventures. How all these,

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my fellow countrymen appreciated my story. How they sympathised with the hardships and how they joined in hilarity when I related the episodes of synthetic tobacco and the primitive routine of our daily life. I enjoyed It as much as they.

Turned into our tiny bivouac with my Sergt Edmunds and Johnson, which recalled life under the boats on Elephant Isld, tightly packed, but warm and contented.

31st Decr /17 Monday

And so on this last day of the year I find myself way out on the hills of Judea, taking part in the campaign against the Turks, at Khaurbetha Ibn Harith. It is a time when all past memories crowd on me, thoughts of home and dear ones, of travel happenings and escapes; Yes, they all come crowding on me as I lay out in my tiny bivouac, with the olive trees overhead and the fragrant herbs carpeting my floor. I have been out most of the day

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with General Wilson, taking pictures around the front line positions. My heavy equipment took six men to carry it, owing to the rocky country and the difficulty in climbing over these rocky steepes. The country in which we are now fighting (?) is very mountainous and composed of limestone. It affords the most exquisite shelter for defence, and if the enemy had but the morale and supplies behind him, the country might be held for "the duration". I had a good demonstration of the wonderful work of our transport. Up almost unwalkable tracks the packhorses brought the ammunition and supplies. Limbers first carrying it to the base of the rocky ascents. Even on these hills the ground is retained by stone walls, and there the olive grows luxuriantly. The soil is a brilliant chocolate, evidently impreg-

[Page 90]
nated heavily with iron. It is very clayey which makes the bridle tracks, so slippery as to be unusable during the rains During the afternoon, the position was taken over by Imperial Infantry, and the Light Horse (Aust) who were acting as infantrymen retired to camp at El Burj about five miles back. I joined them there, my impedimenta having preceded me on Camel back.

During the evening the boys had a very enjoyable concert, which was held in an old tomb mosque. There was much talent amongst them; mostly the songs and recitations being of Australian origin. Here I would contrast the Australian out here with his brother of France. Here a life more nearer to home is lived. Most of these men are from West Australia, bushmen and cattlemen. They have not lost any of the traits of our country lands.

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Hospitable, warmhearted and ingenuous, they remain. Every man is a horseman. The general and his officers have not assumed that rigid militarism, which is so obvious in France and so one finds more harmony, sympathy and kinship. No doubt of course this is produced by dissimilar conditions. Life here is more Australian, open air and expansive. There is not the strain of war nor the eternal fear of death. It would be a man's bad luck to be killed here in action, whilst in France he might consider himself fortunate to escape with life. France is hell, Palestine more or less a holiday. True, here they have arduous times, but they are neither longlived nor does the shadow of death eternally accompany them. The Australian in France has lost much of his charm, due to association and intermingling with society.

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He is comparatively a few hours from London and Paris and so has assumed in some degree the mannerisms of the people. Bring both together, and here they remain the same. They are unbeaten as fighters brimful with courage, and individuality. Neither does the Australian lack resource nor initiative.
After the sing song, I concluded with a chat on the Mawson Expedition which was much appreciated.

Here terminates my entries for the old Year and may this time next year see us all reunited with home and friends.

1st January 1918
The New Year broke with heavy rolling clouds and stormy winds; the precursor to the heavy downpours that came down all day.

The 8th, 9th and 10th Light Horse were in

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bivouac in the near vicinity, their shelter being tiny canvas sheets formed into small tents. The deluge flooded the landscape and swamped the inmates, soaking them through to the skin. Move from your bivouac and you stepped into that clayey tenacious mud, that builds up in great clods on to one's boots. The roads are frightful and almost impassable. We were washed out, and Johnson saved the situation by discovering a limestone cave into which we moved. Afternoon, I visited a Major Parsons who is a cousin of my Lieut Wilkins in France. He with four other officers and myself crowded into his little camp, seeking its doubtful shelter and sitting in the mud of the floor. I interested then with affairs in France and travel in other lands. Altogether it was a miserable wretched

[Page 94]
day and right glad I was to seek the dry yet cramped shelter of our limestone cavern. Seargt Edmunds nearly choked us out with his smoky fire, which cogently reminded me of Elephant Island. We are grateful our sleeping gear is dry and that rations are not scarce. Tomorrow we are to leave this camp and proceed to Lutron.

2nd Jany /1918 El Bury
The camel transport arrived at camp at 7.30 am and all gear was packed up for a move. The roads are quagmires and extremely bad for camels, their padded feet slipping and sliding so that with the regulation load of 300 lbs up the poor brutes are absolutely helpless. Scarcely better off are their native drivers. These destitute beings have little or no shelter

[Page 95]
during the rains, with the results that numbers perish through cold and exposure.
[Drawing of tomb besides trees]
The entire brigade left El Bury at noon and moved off in sections column. The long column winding its way like a great serpent over rocky defiles and plain, made a very impressive spectacle. The distance travelled to our present camp was ten miles - a long trail of slippery slimy mud. I was sorry to leave El Bury so quickly as it is a pictorial little spot, an old tomb on the crest of a hill surrounded by gnarled ancient trees. The country abounds with caves which evidently were used in times distant for residences. I was much interested in the watering arrangements, for I discovered the water was being raised by buckets from wells, with which the country abounds. There is a fine view from El Bury, across limestone ridges

[Page 96]
to the high hills of Judea in the background. The colors and tints are especially fine. The light grey limestone, the rich red chocolate loam and the blue green of the olive trees makes such a picture as Palestine only can boast of. The Brigade drew into camp just before dark and is to move off again at 9 a.m.
3rd Jany /18
General Wilson had the Brigade (3rd) paraded in column formation for the Cine. The Column with transports extended over two miles. It made a magnificent sight, stretching over and winding across the undulating plain like a great serpent. The horses just now, owing to heavy work and short rations are looking very poor, still it is remarkable how well they faced the wretched muddy road and the bad weather conditions . We travelled about twelve

[Page 97]
miles and are now out of the hilly country being camped near the village of Katra. Tomorrow morning I intend leaving for Desert Mounted Corps Hdq at Durin.
4th Jany /18
Every kindness possible was shown me by General Wilson and his officers and to all of whom I am deeply indebted. I desired to return to Desertcorps Hdq today, they proffered me a limber for my baggage and horses for myself and two attendants. I left their temporary camp at 10 am beautiful weather, and never enjoyed myself so much, as the delightful trot home through Cactus Hedged roads and by Native villages. We were at Corps at 11.30 am and I took up my residence again in billets with the old Rabbi (mentioned previously). It was just like returning home. I met Gullett at “Hdqtrs” and we had

[Page 98]
an enjoyable afternoon chat over comparisons of the Palestine and Campaign in France. The Turk in Palestine is absolutely demoralised and putting up no fight. Casualties are so comparatively insignificant, that the man who is killed here, is regarded as decidedly unlucky ! God! What contrast to France, where the man who escapes being killed is regarded as being lucky! I arranged with Colonel Farr to give me transport tomorrow, as I intend visiting 1st and 2nd Brigades at Esdud.
5th Jany
I left with my Staff Sergeant and Batman accompanied with my vast amount of equipment, in a box Ford Car for Esdud. These cars are at present doing wonderful work, and compared with other types of motor transport easily take lead. The roads have dried up

[Page 99]
considerably, but the "Wadies" are still bogging and we stuck several times. Just outside the village of Mughar we had Magneto troubles which prevented us going further until a reserve car came to our assistance.
In the interim we visited the native village of Mughar and secured a series of plates. The village is built on a steep hill which rises from the plain, and is by far the most pictorial I have visited. The houses, if I might so dignify them by the word, are built entirely of mud and stone - very little of the latter. They are invariably hedged in by high walls, flat roofed and squalid. In the small courtyards are kept considerable numbers of fowl, and here the numerous children indulge in the same pranks as our own offspring. The women, too, arrayed in their multi

[Page 100]
-coloured dresses may be seen prattling away on the steps, or carrying water in the characteristic earthenware bowls on their heads, housebuilding, or farming; for here woman takes her share with man. It is all very pictorial and fascinating, a moving color picture, striking and interesting.
A string of camels winds its way through the narrow street way, their color nearly matching the brick wall brown, their attendants dressed in bright blue dungarees; along they move stately and dignified, out of the village, along the green prickly pear hedged road and away onto the yellow sands of the plain. There must be at least 500 of them. They are all heavily loaded and are moving forward to the front line dump. Hail to the Gypo and his camel: without them, progress against the Turk would have been slow indeed, Ay!. well

[Page 101]
nigh Impossible. After waiting about 4 hours the relief car came up and conveyed us to Belr Duras, a charming native village, with atrocious roads and where we stuck fast in the mud.
Half the population came out and gave us a hand to extricate the Ford from our ignominious surroundings. They pushed knees deep in mud, our skidding wheels, sending the mud flying like Catherine wheels. The Gypo's made great fun of it and put us on the road to Esdud where we arrived ½ an hour later. After erecting my tent and the "bivvy" for my two men, I visited the 1st Brigade Hdtrs and joined their mess. I wet Major Hudson from Katoomba and several other officer friends. I intend staying at Esdud for about a week.
6th Jany
The rain which has been

[Page 102]
threatening much of late came down in heavy downpour during the night, and has continued without cessation all day. Heavy winds also accompany it, and my thoughts of escaping the winter in France for Sunny (?) Palestine have had a set back. The big flat where I had the unpleasant experience of being flooded out on Xmas Eve is again awash, and flooded, the roads impassable. The Waddies have been running bankers and transport is more or less disorganised. Spent the day at the mess chatting on home and Australia and letter writing. Thank heavens it is dry within my tent, for I look across a dismal expanse of mud where the Horse transport and Camels are having a miserable time..
7th January /18 Monday
Wild stormy night, with Tropical deluge. Conditions moderated considerably

[Page 103]
during the day and only occasional showers fell. My Staff Sergeant and self went out after "mud pictures" in which the country is at present swimming. The great flat in front of Esdud station was submerged about four feet, and with it, valuable supplies of fodder and ration stuffs. A great string of over 2,000 camels had to pass through it and I pitied the wretched creatures and their destitute drivers.To see these fine beasts of the burning desert, wallowing in the mud of Palestine winter is pitiful indeed and their drivers with hardly any suitable clothing or protection from the fierce weather, is it any wonder they perish in large numbers. The endless streams of transport sank to their axles in the flood, and the railroad being washed away rail transport is again disorganised. I had

[Page 104]
a thoroughly enjoyable ride across the sand dunes to the sea at eventide with Lieut. Smith. Owing to the recent winds, a great sea was rolling in and no goods were being landed, the cargo vessels being compelled to put to sea. I messed with Major Weir, A Squadron, 1st Regiment, 1st Brigade and his officers. I related my Antarctic experiences to their infinite pleasure.
8th Jany /18
Improvement in weather which enabled the 1st Brigade to parade for the Cinema. The horses and men which have been in rest camp now for several weeks, are all in fine fettle. The riding was admirable and all seemed to enjoy the exercise and turnout.

The Immediate neighbourhood is the centre of a number of camps, so that the sand hills are always a bustle

[Page 105]
with horses and men, and the unending streams of accompanying camel transport. Our Headquarters have their tents pitched in what was once an old "figgery". It is a pleasant spot, sandy and dry and isolated from the other camping. What astonishes one is the threat size of the fig trees, and the density of their growth - more so, as their owners apparently pay little or no attention to pruning or fertilising. I am greatly pleased with the hospitality and assistance given me by the Headquarters Staff, nothing is too much trouble or difficult for them to have done, and this I recognise as the biggest half of my work done.

9th Jany /18
Morning enacted a Cinema scene of sinking for water in the desert. Water is plentiful in the vicinity, as a sump had only to be sunken 12 feet.

[Page 106]
The water is pumped up by means of a Downton Pump into canvas troughs. The whole of the Brigade Horses were watered and the effect produced was very fine. Afternoon Edmunds and I went across to the beach at The Wady Nahr Sukereir where a vessel is being discharged. The beach was teeming with natives engaged in the work, and was one of the most animated and noisy scenes I have witnessed here. The vessel lay out about ½ a mile in about 6 fathoms, and a large number of craft (very much like the Norwegian pram [boat] in shape) were ferrying the cargo ashore. When the bows grounded, a line was hooked on, and about 100 natives hauled the craft inshore.
Immense dumps were formed which were being transported by thousands of camels. We returned across the sandhills in the late evening, the

[Page 107]
desert being the more impressive on account of the dead quiet and beautified by the wonderful delicate flashings of sunset. My quest of mud scenes of a few days ago has contracted for me a wretched cold.
10th Jant /18
Morning, amongst the camps. Afternoon took a limber with my gear, across the sand dunes to the Wady Nahr Sukereir I secured fine film of vessels being discharged.
11th Jany/ 18
Glorious weather - visited the 2nd Brigade, and by appointment with General Ryrie the Brigade paraded for pictures. A finer body of men it would be well nigh impossible to find. They sat in the saddles as though part of their horses, the discipline excellent, and the manoeuvres even excited the General's admiration

[Page 108]
The General who is famed for his geniality gave me a fine display of boomerang throwing in which he is expert.

The 1st and 2nd Brigades are moving towards Deiran tomorrow and I have decided to travel with them.

12 Jany /18
Reveille at 6 am early breakfast, out in the open under an old figtree. Tents struck, limbers packed and the columns moved off at 10 a.m. The seeming endless stream of men and horses winding their way across the plains, recalled to mind the great columns of the African fighting ants on their way to battle.
Far away from the horizon the stream moved slowly along; over rises, into valleys, across streams it pushed impressively. The men were in high spirits, and the horses in good fettle. I rode my little favourite Abdul.

[Page 109]
Abdul has become a great friend and is a capture from the Turks at Beersheba. He is one of the most beautiful little creatures I have ever set eyes on : a perfect model of Arab breed and blood.
Going, however, was bad. The roads were still sticky and treacherous with holes from the recent rains, but in spite of this difficulty we made good time. The good weather was threatening a breakdown which threatening was realised more speedily than anticipated. The rain came down in deluge, flooded the roads and brought the Waddies down gushers. The journey we concluded soaked through, and splashing through a mud sludge, churned up by thousands of hoofs. The transport was held up by their frequently sinking axle deep in the soft ground and the flooded streams.

[Page 110]
12 Jany

The brigade went into a wet Bivouac about a mile from Deiran. The Staff and myself rode into Deiran, where we put up for the night at "Harlaps" a comfortable little hotel, where we were able to dry our clothes and secure a good meal.

13 Jany /18
The rain came down in torrents all night, and has continued today accompanied by heavy lightning. The Brigade in Bivouacs ("Bivvys") were washed out and are having a miserable time. I returned to my old digs - "The home of the Chanting rabbi", and also arranged to take an additional two rooms, at a neighbouring house, for workroom purposes. The Headquarters of the 1st Brigade (with whom I travelled up) are near

[Page 111]
by at hand and I dined with them. The mess I am attached to here at Desert Corps, whilst having an excellent cuisine, is composed of all Imperial officers of the "Airs and Graces Type" which affects ones appetite and prevents them from enjoying meals.
14th Jany 18 Monday
Heavy rains, hail and thunderstorms continued through the night, but cleared into glorious sunshine during morning. I have at last managed to secure two rooms for my photographic requirements close and hand and spent the day fitting them up. There appears to be considerable conflict between the Imperial and Australian heads at Corps which I can only attribute to jealousy on

[Page 112]
the part of the former. Desert Corps which administers the entire mounted forces, is composed of a theoretical representative selection of Imperial and Australian officers. For unexplainable reasons there is a great preponderance of the former. General Cheville [Chauvel] commands the Australians - General True, The Yeomanry (Imperial). Unfortunately the former is rather weak and has not sufficient "push" to secure the full privileges due to his men. This leads to much dissention and dissatisfaction: and there exists a decided unfriendly attitude between the "Imps" and "Aussies". I have experienced an unwillingness to assist on the part of the former, but have succeeded in securing my needs by appealing direct to our heads.

My new workrooms are part of a house occupied

[Page 113]
by a Yiddish family and are clean and convenient. Afternoon, I visited a large camel camp where over 6,000 beasts are tethered. Developed a number of color plates which I found excellently exposed (f11 - 1 sec). The actinic value of the light is about equivalent to that of English summer.

During evening we had a concert at Mess. The table was finely decorated with Anemones and Narcissi which now are just coming into flower. I caused much amusement by a solo played on my hands and by imitations.

15th Jany /18
Remained at Deiran, developing the results are fine and success – 100%. Beautiful mild weather with blue sky, making Deiran more beautiful than it is. The little red tiled houses nestling amidst the green gum trees is just like home.

[Page 114]
16th Jany /18

Went to Zernukah - a native village a few miles from Headquarters. Beautiful weather favored an enjoyable trip - made a trifle exciting by the Ford getting stuck in the mud. We requisitioned the energies of some passing bedouins and soon got on the road again.

Zernukah like many other similar villages is built on a hill slope, its approaches being hedged by fine avenues of Cacti. The Sheik gave us all assistance possible, and all the rest of the indolent ragged population, and the ever accompanying crowd of small boys joined in. I had the 2nd Regiment paraded through the narrow laneways and in many other pictorial sittings. It is amusing what the troops will do for the camera. The various brigades have been marshaled

[Page 115]
and all in turn have passed before the Cinema. They have all keenly participated. The residences of Zernukah are just a series of dingy hovels, huddled together like swallow nests, and risen entirely from mud. The roofs are thatched and mudded: and now that spring is drawing nigh, grass is beginning to make them verdant with young shoots. But the most interesting sight of Zernuka and in fact most other villages is the waterwheel. This remarkable structure is moved by a donkey, which lifts the water in small buckets and discharges them into a large reservoir. Around the valve of the reservoir, the "bynts" (women) collect with their big terracotta water jars, and discuss, no doubt, the gossip of the village. They carry away the heavily laden vessels, balanced on their heads with a gait and erectness truly enviable.

But the colors are the greatest charm.

[Page 116]
Even the small boys clothes are repaired with multicolored patches and the women, though appearing as if a good bath would do them a deal of good, are bedecked in a variety of colors, like a tea cosy. The green cactus hedged roads, along which a number of donkeys are now coming, heavily laden with golden oranges, wind across the fields now asprout with barley.

At every turn there is some new interest to absorb one; even to the primitive tilling. All sorts of beasts of burden are utilised and it is not infrequent to observe a camel yoked alongside a tiny donkey, drawing the primitive plough. I secured a very interesting series of pictures of the light Horse amidst these quaint surroundings and returned to Deiran 5 pm.

I have made arrangements to visit the front line positions tomorrow and will leave by car at 7 am.

[Page 117]
17 Jany /18
Left Dieran 7 am in a Box Ford Car. The recent rains have beat down the sandy track to Ramleh and caused the grasses and orchards through which we passed to spring into shoot. The early morning run was by far the most interesting and enjoyable I have had here. Beyond Ramleh we made for Ludd, but the clayey soil which is heavily cut up by military traffic gave us great trouble. Frequently we sank in axle deep, and when we got out to push - which we did every 100 yards - the skidding wheels sprayed us with mud. Still it was marvellous how the little Ford, with our assistance, forced a passage through the quagmire and eventually succeeded in reaching our destination. We only had a glimpse at Ludd - charming in the morning sunlight and especially beautified by date palms as we had to push on to

[Page 118]
Meidia: and push it was, for the recent rains followed by the sun had converted the soft patches Into deep mud of great tenacity. It clogged our wheels and the car sank in to the footboards. With the combined assistance, however, of numerous "niggers" and our four selves we managed to force a passage. The little Ford stuck to the heavy work wonderfully, and I am loud in praise of these cars for the difficult and heavy work which befalls them. Meidia is on the top of a high rise and commands an extensive view across the plains and flat country, right away to the sea. It is a superior village as far as residences are concerned, being for the most part of stones, which is quarried in the vicinity. And there the land itself undergoes a great change: from the clay and sand patches of the plains, there is an abrupt change

[Page 119]
into hilly country of limestone formation.

A little beyond Meidia we took to horses the road being impassable for cars. The way led us across mountain sides, steep and rocky, to the bed of a Wady which we followed for a few miles and here the scenery was very grand. The mountains are just great boulders and of limestone, and though not of great height, present great problems for transport. We passed by the base of the hill on which is built the fine village of Nalin, Regiment at Headquarters being just opposite.

Of fighting there is none. The Turks hold ridges about 1500 yards away and apparently are unwilling to make any aggressive move. The country is extremely difficult for an attack on our part, favouring the defensive on account of its natural cover. The forces, however, which we are contending are

[Page 120]
a rabble, and disappear with any advance made. From Hdqtrs there is a magnificent outlook for over the low hills and plains to the sea. Jaffa was clearly visible and many other villages nestling in hollows or on hill crests. I secured a fine series of pictures and decided to stay the night at Hdqtrs and return to Dieran at daybreak.

18th Jany /17 [?18]
Up at 5 am and away shortly after 6 am. The early morning ride over the mountains was enjoyable and exhilarating. The sun came up in a serenely blue sky, gilding the mountain tops and blazoning Nalin with a flood of golden light. The olive trees turned a vivid green and the very rocks seemed to reflect the golden rays. It was beautiful and ethereal, and scarcely have I enjoyed myself more. The ride back in the car

[Page 121]
was an ordeal through slimy mud as far as Ramleh. We requisitioned natives wherever possible, and made all sorts of detours by cutting down Cactus hedges and using the leaves for corduroying. The road is in fine condition from Ramleh, and leads through orchards and vineyards which now are springing into life. The ground is ablaze with a beautiful little flower like the milk thistle and amongst which the red ranunculi are beginning to blossom profusely.

We arrived at Desert Corps at 10.30 am just in time to keep an appointment to photograph the staff. I met General Chauvelle [Chauvel] and requested that 20 men with officers be sent to Jerusalem to take part in the photographic visit I am making there in a few days. The General acceded to my request and the party are to leave on 20th, my idea is to include a number

[Page 122]
of Light Horsemen in my pictures for historic records; and though they did not actually take part in the capture, it was undoubtedly due to their speedy advance in the direction of Jaffa and their threat to outflank the enemy, which greatly facilitated the fall of Jerusalem into our hands: furthermore, pictures of Jerusalem are of no military or public Interest unless some of our troops are included.
19 Jany
Spent day at Desert Corps (Dieran) developing and bringing my work up to date.
20th Jany. Sunday
To Richon a delightful Jewish village six miles from here. I met the staff of the Anzac Mounted Division and took a series of photogs of their attached mountain battery and signallers.
21st Jany
Left Dieran at 7 am with Capt Rhodes in a Ford for Jerusalem, my two men following in a Box Car with equipage. With a beautiful morning favouring, we had a fine though bumpy run to Latron which is at the foot of the hills. The plain abruptly terminates, and we began the ascent of the foothills along a passably good road which bend and winds amongst the steep inclines of Judaea. The scenery is very fine. As one passes along, ever upward, through the narrow gorges of limestone there are transcending glimpses into deep valleys, blue grey with weathered limestone, and cultivated here and there, wherever there is sufficient soil, with gnarled old olive trees. And close inspection shows the mountain slopes to be

[Page 124]
ablossom with, Narcissus, Anemones, and the beautiful little cyclamen. I got out of the car to pick some, and as my footsteps crushed down the stunted verdure, it gave out the sweetest perfume which I recognised as that of the aromatic herbs, of thyme and sage. Rhodes I found a fine companion and we enjoyed ourselves discussing the scenery and likening it to certain parts of home. Half way up the pass we met Lieut Hardy (in charge of the 20 men I had asked for) with his troop and limbers. I took a series of pictures, and was fortunate in being able to include a party of Turk prisoners on their way to the internment camp. As we neared the first summit, a short halt was made to enjoy the magnificent panorama

[Page 125]
which opened up. Looking back westward over the great round waves of limestone - which characterise these hills - one could see over 25 miles of plains, to Jaffa in the distance, and the sea beyond! And yet so clear was the atmosphere, that one might discern details and be deluded into numbering the distance at 10 miles.
On the Eastern slopes immediately below us, began a series of sharp hairpin bend descents, which led into the valley. Immediately in front perched on a hill crest lay Kulonish near where the Turks destroyed the fine bridge over the Wady Surar when they retired on Jerusalem. Again up a gradual incline which follows the trend of the main ridge, we passed the village of Lifta, with its square stone

[Page 126]
buildings that looked like a series of blockhouses. Only a mile away on the hill top lay Jerusalem. Every inch of the ground was interesting with some biblical association and I sincerely regretted my lack of testamental Enlightenment. Still I doubt if I would have appreciated it the more. The entry into Jerusalem is as disappointing as entering a Mansion by the scullery door. The way is through modern buildings, and a densely peopled thoroughfare, dusty and commonplace, that quite disappointed me.
It is necessary to secure passes to enter the old City, which we experienced no troubles in doing and forthwith we decided to lunch and inspect. Foodstuffs are scarce in Jerusalem and the hotel being filled, Rhodes and I

[Page 127]
were compelled to eat at a near-by Cafe of unprepossessing appearance. Neither did the meal belle the external aspect of this apartment. The meal consisted of meat and carrots - no doubt deceased camel (probably diseased)
was responsible for the toughness of the former, but we were hungry and did neither care nor inquire. The sweets course was simply figs. Figs boiled until the syrup was semi liquid, which course needed a good washing down with Jerusalem wine to scour away the taste. Into the cleanliness of the establishment we did not peer too closely, but the appearance of the proprietor who came out to collect the Tariff nearly made us violently ill.

[Pages 128-130 blank]
[Page 131]
Expenses incurred Transport of Equipment to P & O Coy Port Said from London £1-9-3

Transport Expenses from ship and through Customs 15 Jn [£]2-7-6

Paid out of pocket.

[Transcribed by David Lambert and Rosemary Cox for the State Library of New South Wales]