Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales

Frank Hurley war diary, 24 January-13 August 1918
MLMSS 389 / Box 5 / Item 3

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Palestine Egypt and London
24 Jany to ) 1918
13 August )

Private Diary Of
Frank Hurley Capt
Administrative Hdqtrs
London

Kodak
Sydney
Australia

From 24 Jany to 13th August /18

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24 Jany to
13 August
1918

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24th Jany 1918

Spent day in darkroom and developed 50 plates all of which were successful. Musical evening with much life in Mess. Glorious Calm weather.

25th Jany /18
Up at 6 am and off to Ramleh, where at the present time a huge dump of materials is accumlated and distributed. The materials are brought in by camels from the rail-head near Dieren and from the coastal landing at Sukerier. Great strings of camels miles long, heavily laden, discharge their cargos daily, and present such a scene of life and bustle, winding in and out among the Cactus hedges and across the dusty plain as I have never seen before. Over 8,000 animals

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are so employed, and are attended by natives. From the dump at Ramleh we motored over the dusty bumpy road to Jaffa. Jaffa is much modernised and has lost most of its attraction. I was much interested however, in the landing of railway materials which is at present going on. The cargo vessels lie out to sea, and the stuffs are ferried in by surf boats. The port is extremely treacherous, as the boats have to pass through a narrow waterway between rocks of Andromeda, and even when inside the reefs there is barely enough water in which to swing them.

There is some fine color in old Jaffa, the walls being painted a variety of
tints with here and there glimpses of the deep blue Mediterranean. Like
all other villages and towns, old Jaffa is filthy and smelly. Around the town are

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many fine old orange groves; the fruit being at present ready for market, they are just ablaze of gold. I sent my boatman into one of the orangeries for 2/- worth, he returned with a great sack of a couple hundred. W e returned to Duran via Riohon, a pleasant though rough journey of 20 miles.

26th Jany 18

Went to Ramleh and thence on to Ludd . Ludd is the old Biblical town of Lyddia and the birth place of St.George.

Ludd is one of the prettiest villages hereabouts, and being on fairly high ground, it overlooks the fertile plains to the horizon of the Judea Mountains. I like Ludd on account of the large number of palm trees; which rise majestically from dirty little courtyards and more or less help to realise ones

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conception of a Palestine village. Its streets are mere typical alleyways, dirty, dingy and smelly, here and there arched over by a building, and very similar to Jerusalem.

Johnson my indispensable batman who swears and speaks amazing Arabic, kept the army of small boys which followed, in our wake, at peeping distance. There is quite a fine Greek church erected to St.George, and its interior IS a remarkable display of tawdreness and show. After taking a series of pictures we returned to Dieran. We stopped at the old Crusader tower at Ramleh on the homeward journey, from where there is a transcending outlook over the country. The run through the budding orchards, lit by the low evening sun to Dieran is always fresh and pleasant. I exposed 20 plates and took 600 feet Cinema film.

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27th Jany /18 Sunday

Thunderous weather and occasional bursting downpours all day compelled me to remain at Corps. I spent the day profitably in bringing work up to date. The color negatives are a revelation and I am securing many fine results. We had quite an enjoyable evening at mess. Attfield plays the piano, the Padre, (Maitland Woods), the violin, and the balance endeavour to harmonise their raucous voices into chorus.

28th Jany /18 Monday

Torrential rains with hail continued all day and precluded us from doing any active field work. Evening the local inhabitants held a concert in the Town Hall for the parish poor. It was well attended, especially by the Military. Talent there was,

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but the stage management was lacking, and the turns more or less followed at the sweet discretion of the actors. Several of the officers self included who were not able to enter on account of not previously booking, amused ourselves behind the panes of the stage sceneries. After the concert there was an amusing dance, in which all joined to any old tune. It was chiefly concerned in creating a noise and bustle.

29th Jany

The concert was again continued this evening. An artist of some merit played for a couple of hours on a violin to an appreciative audience of the locals (not military) who must indeed be a music loving race. Personally it one of the most monotonous performances I have ever listened to. It is several items were

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interspersed by breaks of 15 and 30 minute . A symbolic dance by the Juveniles "And they shall. beat their swords into ploughrshares and hoes" was well staged. After the concert and during the numerous intervals, the Australian element, whiled away the time with choruses. They were extremely well behaved, and I fancy appreciated the affair.

During the day, I went to Ludd and secured a series of Military pictures. The roads are in a frightfully muddy state, and I had to frequently secure the assistance of the roads gangs of the Egyptian Labour Corps, to push my Sunbeam from her muddy nest.

30th Jany, 18

It is amusing the keenness of the Staff and Brigades to have their photos taken. I have had three Brigades turned out! Generals coming from

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distant parts of the country! and all the impossible stunts enacted for the Cinema. Fancy taking a party of troops to Jerusalem for the sole object of taking part in a cine performance! Flying stunts sad bombing raids! Every department solicits my presence. Even to the G.O.C. This unbounded vanity and desire for publicity, I regret is absorbing much time and I shall be glad to be on the move again.

Gullet returned, and we have been going into the matter of the appointment of an official photographer. At present I am having difficulty in securing a suitable man to carry on. The Kodak appears to be part of the equipment of the Ltt Horse, but all are raw amateurs, and unsuited to carry on serious record worlk.
The 1st Brigade band played in the Square during the afternoon and

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evening at the Corps Commander's Villa. Their performance was appreciated by the villagers, who crowded round to watch the magnificent evolutions of the drummer.

Several officers and myself amused ourselves during the evening and I am afraid rather at the expense of those congregated in the Synagogue. The meeting not being of a religious character, we carried the Mess monkey to the building and released him through a window. The meeting broke up with much disorder and the monkey was very soon the sole occupant of the Synagogue, where he was kept prisoner until his keeper arrived. Lunched with Corps Commander.

31st Jany /18

More personal vain photographs of the Divisional Commanders. Visited

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31st Jany /18

Mughar. A native village a few miles distant, and secured a number of color plates. The village looks well after the rain - being beautifully green, and cleaner than usual. The greenness is due to the young grass which is beginning to sprout profusely on the flat roof tops. The natives are actively engaged in tilling the surrounding country and planting wild barley which indeed is a good sight, as there threatens to be a considerable grain shortage this coming season.

Colonel Fare has asked me to go to Jerusalem with him tomorrow and as I have a spare day, have decided to accept his kind invitation.

1st February

Left desert Corps and at 10 am with Colonel Farr in his

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Vauxhall for Jerusalem. Although I have been over the same route previously, it was as interesting as ever, and filled me with anticipations at every turn. Farr was in raptures and enjoyed every inch of the journey.
We put up at the Fast Hotel – where, considering the great scarcity of foodstuffs, quite excellent meals are served, and a good clean bed. It is amusing to see the guests (military) arrive, each with his bread ration under arm, or other rations. During the afternoon we visited the city within the walls and went via Dolorosa to the Mosque of Omar, thence to the Jews wailing place - a number of them were indeed crying bitterly, and we were astounded at their religious fervour. They wail for the destruction of their temple, and no doubt it is part of the routine of their religious beliefs; but to see young children sitting

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by the wall praying and evidently deep in sorrow and penance, impressed me with great admiration. It is an interesting spot, a small court with the high retaining walls (immediately outside the Mosque of Omar) rising like a hopeless barrier between the Jews and the coveted area of Moslem dominion within. We visited also the church of holy sepulchure, wherein tradition hath it that our saviour was buried. The church is a fine old rambling place composed of a number of courts of the various denominations. All grouped "round the supposed sepulchure. The sepulchure itself has been faced with marble; but unfortunately so many of the sights are imaginary, that one even doubts the fallibility of this one.
We spent some time at the American Store purchasing souvenirs - every

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description of useless articles being manufactured from the local woods or executed in metal work, which has developed with some degree of art. To dinner at 7.30 quite a fine repast. A rich ragout. No doubt of Camel and Carrots, but we were hungry. To bed at
10 pm which we found very comfortable, being furnished with a spring mattress and sheets! and apparently no bugs!!!!
2nd Feby /18

After a good night's rest and a breakfast of one egg - we motored out to Bethlehem. A beautiful day favoured us and it being Sunday everyone was astir in their best. We paid a visit to the Church of the Nativity, and saw the place, traditional of course, where Christ was born. The manger has been supplemented by a marble affair

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with a protecting wire around it, and the place being below ground and dimly lit, impresses one more as a tomb. Streams come and go and reverently kneel before the birth place, wrapt in adoration, maintain a ceaseless hum with their fervent prayers. Even in this dark chamber a guard is placed, as infact there is before all the temples and places of worship. There are numerous chapels like catacombs, beneath the ground, hewn out of the solid rock, dedicated to the various saints. This place is the apocryphal scene of the massacre of the Bethlehem infants.

What is particularly impressive about this old church, and true also, is the fact:- that whilst every other church in Palestine was converted by the Moslems into Mohmmidan places of worship, the church of the Nativity remained christian,

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and has done so for nearly 16 centuries. It is probably the oldest church in Christendon - that has maintained unbroken christian worship. We procured several souvenirs of the beautifully carver mother of pearl shell, work in which the natives are adept, after bartering for some time with a crafty old Jew who demanded £10 and then finally let us have the piece for a &pond;

We then returned to Jerusalem and motored to the Mount of Olives, from where is to be seen the most wonderful view in the world. Dined with General Shea and his staff at Hdqtrs, which pre situated in the German Consulate. The consul must have vacated in great haste, for he left behind all his furniture, pictures, and many private documents. This

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house is also interesting, as it is the identical one in which the Kaiserr lunched during hi a stay in Jerusalem 10 years ago. In the afternoon we took tea with the family of our interpreter, (who is a desert from the Turkish Army). I was keenly interested in the domestic life of the people. This house was exceptionally clean, and though scantily furnished, everything was in good taste. I coveted the fine carpets on the floor, which our boy George informed us were made in Damascus and were 50 years old. They appeared to have be on in use for only a few weeks. The daughters of the house were extremely well mannered, and one who spoke English, I found both entertaining and with considerable commonsense. From the

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flat roof of the house, one had a fine view over Mount Zion and along the Bethlehem Road up to the Jaffa gate. The site was indeed the pick of the surroundings. The run home in the evening through the Mountains gorges was glorious. The sun was just setting, and the tints which spread over the valleys away to Jaffa, and the sea in the far distance, were ineffably beautiful and delicate. Truly our Saviour had chosen the most beautiful part of all the world for his mission to mankind. We arrive at Desert Corp (Dieran) at 7 pm.

3rd Feby /18 Sunday

Remained day at Corps, finishing up developing and making arrangements for visiting the 4th Brigade at Bela.

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also went to G.H.Q. and interviewed the G.O.C. Palestine Brigade (R.F.C.) to secure permission to be allowed to fly over the Turkish lines and to film a bombing raid with the 67th A.F.C.

4th Feby. 18

Left Desert Corps 8.30 am for the 4th Brigade at Bela about 65 miles south. I intend putting in a few days with the 67th Flying Squadron. Altogether I anticipate being away a week. The run through in the car to the 67th at Julis was frightfully bumpy, and I wondered at the marvellous performa cee of the little Ford (which I am taking with me.) I found Major Williams of the 67th very keen and anxious to assist me in every degree possible. After lunching with him we pushed on to Bela, over the long stretches of undulating and treeless desolation with

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no other excitement than nearly being shaken out of ones body by the fiendish bumpy roads. These are produced by the heavy motor transports and tractors, which pass over them in the rainy weather, and tear up the foundations. The roads were only originally intended for light traffic and as the road foundations are neither deep nor solid, they are readily depressed into the soft black soil. We passed through the outskirts of Gaza and reached Bela at 5 pm. I took up my quarters with the 4th Brigade with whom I intend staying for the next few days.

5th Feby Tuesday

Made out a programme of intended “Stunts” which I require doing and prospected the surrounding country for positions. Bela is at presont the site of a

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huge rest camp, and being suitably situated for rail transport, the sandhills form an ideal camping ground. After noon I ran up to Gaza. I had a much better opportunity of looking over the ruins than on my previous visit.

Scarcely a building remains intact and those not destroyed by the Turks for their timber (which were used to reinforce trenches) were demolished by our bombardment. The town is absolutely deserted and an oppressive quiet rules over the ruins. The failure to capture Gaza during the first two battles is attributed by all to the tactics of the then G.O.C., General Murray, who conducted both engagements from Cairo! In the first battle the New Zealanders were actually in the streets of Gaza when they received the order - no one knows why- to withdraw! The enemy were apparently under similar intentions.

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Our withdrawal changed their tactics and gave the Turk breathing space to still further strengthen and entrench his position. The second, battle, which ended in a miserable fiasco with regrettable lose of life and heavy casualties was fought evidently without tactics or strategy.

This fortunately had the result of Murray being relieved of his command and General Allenby taking over. Our forces retired a little over 1½ miles from Gaza strongly entrenched themselves and wired the country off with miles of entanglements. Being now in a practically impregnable defensive position, the supreme command at once set about unravelling Murray's tangles and putting the entire force on a sound stable basis. New reinforcements were hurried up and the obsolete air service supplemented by new machines. Hitherto the enemy had the supremacy in the air and not only did they bomb vigorously

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but our every movement was observed and checkmated. When all was in a satisfactory condition for the advance, the attack was begun by the great bombardment, and the enemy naturally anticipating the attack directly on Gaza was surprised by his eastern flank being surrounded. At the same time another force moved up along the seafront and further threatened the cutting off of the Turkish force. This had the effect of a hurried evacuation. The Turks went pell mell, fighting a poor rear-action and leaving behind enormous dumps of stores and munitions. From this tine "Jacko" has had the "wind up" properly, and has not ceased running away until the mountainous country of Judea has made impossible speedy pursuit.

Heavy rains set in during the afternoon, and made the roads very sticky. We skidded into Bela and camp at 5.30 pm.

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6th Feby /18

I had two squadrons sent up to Gaza to participate in my pictures. The weather turned out excellent I did some excellent work. One sight Impressed me greatly - the ruins of the Grand Mosque. The Turks had given their bond that on no account would they use the town or Military purposes. This they did not keep: and the eloquent testimony of hundreds of thousands rounds of small arms ammunition in the base of the Mosque is sufficient justification for our demolishing the town - which indeed was a stronghold.

We wandered all over Gaza, which once must have been a very fine town, but nowhere did I see an intact building, not even a room. Gaza is the Ypres of Palestine.

On our return home we passed by a train collision. Both engines were

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smashed together with a considerable amount of the rolling stock. Over 500 of the Egyptian Labor Corps were travelling in one train, and incredible though it appears, no one was hurt. Returned to camp at Bela at 5.30 pm.

7th Feby /18

Photographed various stunts - Battery going into action - machine gun drill - and ambulance turnout. Afternoon, two regiments turned out and re-enacted their famous charge at Beersheba. The scene was filled with excitement; and I can well imagine the demoralising effect on the enemy, of two regiments with bayonets drawn sweeping down on to them. In same small degree I sensed the excitement myself, for the charge was directed against the
position. which I occupied. She charge of the regiment at Beersheba

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is one of the outstanding incidents of the campaign in Palestine. After having ridden some forty miles and nearly a day and a half without water, those regiments were pushed into the
battle which had been going on since morning.

Who was in command was ordered to charge and take the strongly entrenched position held by the Turks. Madness though it seemed, the regiments were ordered to charge up to, and across the trenches. This they actually succeeded in doing, and so Beersheba was taken. The few casualties can only be attributed to the failing evening light and to the audacity of the action, which evidently thoroughly discomposed the enemy.

A clean up of the trenches the following morning disclosed the fact, that the rifles left behind, had not been resighted from the first volleys at 700 yards! Evening visited the 4th Regiment and gave them lecturette on Antarctica

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8th February/ 1918

Unsettled weather which broke into heavy rains and wind. Confined to tent and unable to move up to the 67th Flying Squadron, as the roads are impassable for car, and the rails are washed away..

9th Feby /18

Unsettled weather again stormy and heavy rains all day. Communications held up. I am regretting keenly the loss of time, as the time for my departure is drawing close and I find myself unable to shift owing to impossibility of transport. Evening went to 11th Light Horse Mess, where a concert was held. The evening one of the most jovial and enjoyable I have ever been at. A Troup of entertainers amused the company with Topical Songs and a fine display of Juggling feats.

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9th Feby /18

There was no drought in the Liquor, which however, I am pleased to say, was not imbibed to excess. The rain pelted deafeningly on the big tent, but this only had the effect of making everyone sing louder or dance wilder. It seemed impossible that such merriment could exist in such an obscure and forsaken place:- a tiny square of desert sand, whose grains have drifted for countless ages, covered by a thin roof of canvas. But I believe our boys would enjoy themselves even in Hades itself. I have seen them hand in hand with death, singing and gay; under a hail of shellfire, in the frightfulness of winter warfare, blistering and thirsty in the desert, unaltered. Surely a nation must become great that breeds such men as these. Heavy rains all night and, everything in flood.

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10th Feby /18

Intermittent showers which later modified into bright sunshine. This spell of downpours is by far the heaviest and most consistent since I have been here. The average rainfall hereabouts is 20 inches. 14 has so far been accounted for, and I reckon the last week must have brought the number up to average. The country is green and looking splendid. No trains have so far passed through owing to the Wady Ghuzu[?] being in spato. Spent day amongst the camps and secured some fine stuff. The camps are in ideal situations, and owing to percolation are ever flooded out. With Gullett I intend visiting the Camel Corps tomorrow at Rafa.

11th Feby

Left 4th Brigade at 7.30 am, with Gullett in the box Ford.The road having improved sufficiently.

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We had to occasionally get out and push until we entered on the wire road which we found in magnificent condition. These roads have been the salvation of transport through the desert. The idea is extremely simple, being simply a carpet of large mesh steel wire netting, well pegged down along the margin. It is remarkable the excellent road this arrangement produces, and in spite of the heavy wear of twelve months is in good condition. We arrived at the Camel Brigade Hdqrtrs (General Smith) in time for lunch. During the afternoon interviewed Battalion commanders and arranged the following programme for tomorrow.

0 900 1st Btln. in attack,
10 00 2 Sects. 4th Btn. (A and NZ) mounting and going into Bivouacs
11 00 A.C.F.A. Dressing Station
14 00 Lewis Gun Sectn from 2nd Btn.
Vicker do do do do
Section from H K Singapore Battery

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12th Feby /18

The busiest day I have had so far, and by far the most unique performances. The events opened with a Battalion in attack. A Reenactment of the battle of Rafa, and on the very grounds. The Battalion, mounted on Camels, came into action at a fast trot. In the cover of some big hills they halted and dismounted. The men rapidly formed up and so the attack opened. Small parties worked round the cover of the hills, taking advantage of every rise and screen, until a point of vantage was reached immediately under the supposed enemy position. Here the men, under the cover of a small declivity formed up, and at the signal rushed the position at the Bayonet point. The whole affair was most realistically done, and I quite found myself the nucleus of fearsome bayonet

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charge. The most striking event of the day, however was the Hong Kong Singapore Battery. This admirable Battery is all composed of Indian native troops, and exemplary for their perfect discipline. The guns - 13 pounders, are detachable and all come adrift, so that they can be packed in convenient camel loads. Six camels are necessary for each gun.

The speed with which the maneouver of coming into action and erecting the artillery was amazing; the camels being handled as readily as horses. The advantage which this Corps’ possesses over the Light Horse, lies in the extra carrying capacity of the animal. A trooper being able to carry sufficient provision for himself and animal with all equipment for flve days. I regretted my stay with this unit had to be so curtailed, as there was a redundancy

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of excellent and unique subjects.

13th

Left Rafa at 10 am. and arrived at Medjdel [Mejdel] 4 pm. (Lunched with 4th Brigade at Bela). Made arrangements and arranged i programme with Major Williams for taking a series of photographic of the 67th Flying Squadron from the ground and air. Looked over the aerodrome which is the most complete I have visited. Every branch of craft essential to a Flying Squadron has its separate shop. I anticipate the results will be most spectacular I am likely to take here, and will well repay all the time and trouble I can believe.

14th Feby

Flying. I intend producing a film that will include the whole incidents connected with a bombing raid, and started on

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this intention during the morning.

Afternoon I had an interesting fly up to Jaffa and then back to Beersheba. Ten other machines took part in the flight and I secured a number of pictures of the formation.

I intend securing my cinema to the machine and taking film there from. With this object I made experiments to ascertain the points of minimum vibration, and have decided to clamp the machine across the gun cockpit, insulating it by means of flat rubber sponges under compression. Capt Addison gave me a display of evolutions in the air, Looping, diving and flying upside down, with just as much ease as a fish in water. The squadron fly Bristol fighters and Martinsydes.

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15th Feby Machine alight

Morning. Examined some old ruins a little distance from Hangers. Some excavations have been carried out by several of the men and fragments of a magnificent mosaic have been unearthed, together with several broken slabs, coins and pieces of exquisitely stained glass have also been dug up in the near vicinity and judging by the position of the extensive amount of fragmentary pottery and eroded building material, the site must have been covered with a considerable city.

Just before lunch we observed a machine land with smoke issuing from near the pilot's seat. He had only time to jump out when the machine burst into flame and was speedily demolished. Fortunately I had both Cinema and camera at hand and secured some unique pictures. During the afternoon ten machines loaded with bombs took off from the

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aerodrome, and flew so as to just pass over the top of the Cine: the effect was extremely impressive. I went up in Capt Smith's Bristol Fighter (a 190 HP machine) - and doing over 90 miles per hour we rapidly come up with the formation. We went down nearly to Beersheba, our machine circling round the flat whilst I took cinema at 7,000 feet we looked down onto the banks of cumulus and through the fleeting openings down. onto the old Turkish trenches. Capt. Addison did a series of manoeuvres, Looping, diving and rolling etc, which showed the admirable control of the Pilot with modern machines. At 4.30 a spiral nose dive dropped us from 5,000 to 2,500 feet in a few seconds. We returned to the aerodrome without mishap, after a delightful run, which I can only compare with the ride of old Elijah when he went up in his heavenly chariot.

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16th February

I had a new fitting made for my cinema, to absorb the vibration of the engine on our 90 HP Bristol Fighter, and Major Williams arranged a flight for me to try it out. With Captain Ross Smith piloting, we left the Hangars at 9.30 am. Oh the exhilaration of that upward climb! The powerful throb of the engine whilst on the ground now resolved itself into a whirr, the hangars rapidly decreased in size until they became mere specks. Up, up, we go: 1,000, 2,000, 3,000, 4,000 are indicated on the gauge and still we climb heavenward. The earth below is assuming the appearance of a patchwork. Here and there numerous villages are scattered throughout this patchwork, looking like tiny patches of honeycomb; the roads radiate from them like white ribbons,

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the streams and waddies might be arteries with networks of veins. Long since, traffic on the road has converted itself into mote like specks and still we climb heavenward. Almost before one realises - the flat plain is gone, and the country looks rough and broken. From our great height it appears as if some mighty thumb had pressed the earth and impressed it with its markings. These are the characteristic terraces formations of the Judean Hills. We are crossing the hills of Judea at 90 miles per hour and yet from our great height we appear stationary. Away on the horizon lays a dark streak which is rapidly enlarging. It is the dead sea. In a few minutes we are over it and gliding down in volplane. I am powerless

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and utterly incapable of describing the wild and tremendous grandeur of the view now stretched before us. We are over enemy territory and they are firing at us with their "archies". Wretched shooting to which we pay no attention. One is too absorbed in contemplating and in fact intoxicated by the mighty works of nature, to heed the vile endeavours of Turkish rabble to shoot us down. From the ground, we appear as a tiny humming bird flitting through the infinity of cloudless blue; From my seat, we are hurtling along on the wings of a tornado, poised over the deep blue waters, of the Mystic Sea! Still we glide down and fly over the stagnant waters, only 1,000 feet above their surface. We are flying 200 feet below Mediterranean Sea level; for the Dead Sea, and the

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valley of the Jordan are 1,200 feet below sea level. Just in front of us lays the valley of the Jordan, walled in by rugged ranges. It appears as if the mighty workings of creation had messed piling up the chaos of mountains in this valley, expressly that the sacred stream might wander unhindered and unmolested through it. And wander it does. Like a great serpent, its convolutions wind and double back on themselves in the most. fantastic and irregular manner conceivable. The valley of the Jordan is as flat as the surface of the Dead Sea. I was living every moment of this wonderful flight, fascinated by the miracle of nature which was unfolded below us. Our great bird even

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seemed to appreciate it, and move along purring and cleaving the Jordan atmosphere with felicity and joy. Near the Jordan bridge, we turn back. and speedily find ourselves over Jericho (now in Turkish possession). Again the archies greet us, but the shooting is bad. Then we followed the winding course of the Jericho Jerusalem road, which winds and twists among t the hills almost as circuitously as the Jordan itself. I was lost enraptured by the ineffable beauty of the scenery below; and knew this flight to be the most interesting and grandest from a spectacular aspect, that I have ever, or ever will gaze on. It was a glimpse of another world. A peep into the realms of the infinite. We flew along, following

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the course of the roadway at 8,000 feet until the Holy City lay below us and I felt I had realised a dream in my existence. We glided slowly down to 2,000 feet above Jerusalem but unfortunately the weather became dull and rendered it bad for photography. Borne on the wings of our great bird, which circled over the city, like a great albatross, one scarcely seemed to be of this world: and I must say that if we are all to have feathering wings in the hereafter then heaven will be a place indeed worth striving for. I could easily recognise the familiar streets and buildings within the walls, and even discern pedestrians and traffic on the highways. The clouds continuing to gain in intensity, Smith very

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kindly piloted his machine up to 17-18,000 feet. At this elevation it was extremely cold. The fleeting glimpses we had of the earth through rifts in the clouds, reminded me of the hazy impression one has of places during a dream. Beautiful and wondrous as it was below the clouds, the effect was now glorified a hundredfold . We flew over a billowy sea of silver mist thrown into fantastic forms by the winds and sun shadows and one could quite easily have fancied themselves floating over icy mountains and snowy plateaus. I took some wonderful film and then we descended below the clouds. Could pick out Jerusalem and Bethlehem and the road winding away to Jericho. To the east like a white ribbon, the highway wound down

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through mountain passes, past Kulonch and down to Lutron at the foot of the rolling Judean Hills, thence through to Ramleh and away to Jaffa by the sea.

In the far north rose the hills around Haifa, and southward past Gaza. I could easily trace all the familiar routes and villages, but they were not as clear as usual owing to the mist Icoming in from the Sea. We landed at the Hangars at 2 pm just in time to witness Major Williams reviewing his Squadron. This day ranks as one of the salient in my life, for I feel I have travelled, and seen the most fascinating and wondrous area of our globe.

At evening I gave a lecture to 200 men, which was well received on Antarctica.

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17th Feby /18

General Cheuvalle [Chauvel] rang me up a few days previously to return to Descorps (Dieran) and take a group of the Administrative Officers of the A.I.F.Forces who are all on a visit to Corps. I regretfully bid adieu to my very kind friends at the Flying Corps where I hope to return in a few days to complete their programme and with the car went on to Dieran via Lutron about 35 miles. The road was very bumpy, but I enjoyed the trip as there were many curious sights taking place along the road. Great activity is noticeable in the transport section and I hear rumours a "stunt" is shortly to come off near Jerusalem. Our First Brigade I also observed on the Warpath. A great string of tractors hauling guns and camp

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gear we passed on the way. What I thought could be more incongruous than this ponderous mass of destruction crawling along the ground, crushing down the red anemones and mmarguerite in its path. From Ramleh, the road through the Cactus hedges and orchards was like motoring through Eden. The trees (almond) are in full blossom, looking like as if covered by a heavy fail of snow; and the heavily perfumed atmosphere of honey smelling blooms took me back to the boronias that bloom In September in our own dear bush.

I am to join the first Brigade at Bethlehem tomorrow and will leave Corps at 7 am. Campbell my assistant has developed my plates which are excellent.

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18th February Monday /18

Up ere break of day and away to Jerusalem by box Ford Car. With me are my batman Johnston and an excellent driver, MacKenzie. Since last visiting Jerusalem, the rains have assisted the vegetation which is now exquisitely green. The hillsides through which the road passes, were covered with wild flower blossoms Anemones, Cyclamens, Marigolds, daisies, Marguerites, all covering the rocky steepes and striving to outdo each other with their dazzling colors. We passed by the old city and on to Bethlehem, where I found the headquarters of the 1st Brigade established in the beautiful villa of Monsieur Jacer. The General informed me of the plan of operations

[Page 57]
which for some absurd reason were witheld [withheld] from me at Corps. The operations which lively will be of great public interest and also spectacular, are to be directed against the Turkish positions Just north of Jerusalem, and also to force them across the Jordan, leaving Jericho in our hands.

For this event, which I deemed of sufficient interest for cinematographing, it was necessary for
me to return to Julis for my instruments. The run I found extremely distasteful, as the distance is some 40 miles and the roads in bad condition. We left Bethlehem at 5 pm and arrived at the A.F.C. Julis at 8 pm. As the weather appeared threatening, and I had no desire to be fogged in the mud flats of Julis, I decided to return. We arrived at Bethlehem at 12.45 am.

[Page 58]
19th Feby Tuesday. 18.

Bofore leaving with the Brigade, I had quite an interesting chat with Monsieur Jacir and General Cox, (commanding 1st Brigade) over a cup of coffee, and a vile liquer celled arrac [arrack]. Jacir described to us some of the despicable methods resorted to by the Turks to extort money and produce from the inhabitants. If any of the officers took a fancy to anything whatsoever, they simply took it away with them, and Jacir, who treated them with every courtesy, had to bribe to the extent of some thousands to keep his beautiful home from being sacked. One instance he cited of three Turkish officers who visited him, and these noticing a beautiful carpet on the floors desired to possess it. They however found it too large, whereupon one of the trio produced a knife and slit the carpet into three sections,

[Page 59]
they carried off a piece each, hurling threats at the protesting owner!

The Brigade left Camp at 10 am and threaded its way through the winding narrow ways of Bethlehem, and a noble sight they made. They passed out and across the plains of Keradiyeh (where scripture hath it the Shepherds fed their flocks). Every stop was filled with interest, and I felt aglow of pride, as I rode alongside the General, to see that long thin endless line of my own countrymen, riding: this sacred ground and bent on the mission of freeing it from Turkish oppression. The column passed over the hill called where the three wise men observed the Star of Bethlehem, and descended its opposite side by a steep Zig Zag into the bed of the valley of Jehosophat. The scenery from the road which threads this valley is

[Page 60]
indescribably grand. Great limestone hills tower on every side and that endless line of men and horses following the white streak of road, appeared like, an army of ants clinging to the mountain side.

Camp was pitched close to Solomon's well, a great cavern hew from the limestone cliffs in which channels are cut to drain and conduct the rain water. What a contrast to Biblical times. amidst these sacred surroundings lay an army in bivouac, and the soldiers in great swarms were filling their water bottles at the well. It was all so very unique and beautiful. High up amongst the hills the bedouins were shepherding their flocks of goats amongst the wild flowers, which draped the mountain sides and carpeted our very path.

After tea a start was made for "Munta" where we were to camp for

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the evening. Unaccustomed as I am to horse riding, this evening s excursion was filled with thrills and excitement. The moon was heavily overcast, so that there was practically no light from the heavens. The path was evidently only a goat track, and filled with pitfalls and traps every few yards. Still the horses did remarkably well, and my estimation of them rose enormously. Even in daylight I should not have dreamt of riding this track, and yet the whole brigade passed along it without mishap. At 11 pm we were at the arranged position, and after tethering out the horses rolled ourselves up in our blankets. The night was bitterly cold, and we missed our “bivvies", orders having been given to travel light, so that every man rode with an absolute minimum of weight. W e arc to leave here at 3.30 am to attack Neby [Nebi] Musa

[Page 61]
20th (The day before Neby [Nebi] Musa)

At 3.30 am, the brigade moved off again, intending to carry the strongly entrenched Turkish position of Neby Musa at daybreak. I am no great horseman, and the track across the mountains in the dark, winding along deep out waddy banks and slippery mountain faces, rather kept me too intent on the horse ahead to notice anything of scenery. At intervals, however, I had fleeting glimpses of a hazy line of men and horses, high up on the mountain above me, or deep down in the'black darkness of gorges. At daybreak we entered upon much more open country, undulating and covered with low hills with Nely Musa directly ahead. Already the fight for the heights was going on, and from our position, everything could be observed as if it were a great stage play. The Cavalry (N.Z. Rifles) advanced

[Page 63]
their horses to the nearest safe cover, where they dismounted and advanced in battle array on foot to the base of the precipitous heights. The enemy were clearly observable on the crest, strongly entrenched and well equipped with machine guns - Our Brigade (under Brigadier General Cox) was ordered, to remain under cover until called upon. The various regiments were tucked away in small gullies with which the country abounds, and with the "Brig” and Staff I climbed to the top of a near by eminence and watched the whole battle. I hold in contempt the Turk as a soldier, for allowing our men to even reach the base of his stronghold, which, with a few machine guns might defy an army who were without artillery support! In the face of the impossible, the N Zealanders, and 60th Div Infantry, slowly gained their way up the hill, though the Turk had the master of the position, and artillery supporting.

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20th

By evening the position was still retained by the enemy – who showed some indications of wavering. During the afternoon we took possession of three bedouins, who informed us of the unprotected pathway, by means of which we might gain the Jordan Valley and so attack the enemy's rear. General Chayton ( in charge of the Division) agreed to Brigadier Cox's suggestion to take his brigade by this route. We started off in single file formation, guided by the Arabs, at 5 pm. The enemy's rear was to be attacked at daybreak.
21st (Capture of Jericho)

In order to make the best of the remaining daylight of yesterday evening, we rode out at a slow gallop; and wherever a smooth flat bed of a Waddy came our way, the horses were pressed to their best advantage. These indeed were extremely rare: and the path though passing through

[Page 65]
some of the most fascinating and interesting country in the world, resolved itself into a treachery of rocks and precipices. As we topped a rise, there were glorious vistas of the Dead Sea away on our right front, deep down in its abysmal basin, and rapidly being obscured by the blue haze of evening, which rose from its surface We rolled ourselves up in our blankets and fell to sleep on the sandy bed of a dried up waddy, infernally cold, as a drizzling rain set in, and disturbed by the not infrequent breaking loose of our horses. At 3.15 am we were saddling up, and jolly glad to be on the move, even though it was pitchy black and wet. At intervals, however, we were favoured by a nebulous glow as the moon penetrated the cloud scud, and then there were hazy glimpses of mountain heights and depth some vallies, of a thin endless line of black

[Page 66]
21st Feby

objects winding in and out amongst them. The descent into the Jordan Valley was indeed exciting and awesome. At times the horses slid, more than walked down the steep rocky faces, and the only guide was the dim outline of the horseman ahead, or the trail of sparks from the horseshoes.

As the daybreak advanced, we were near the foot of the great hills, and entering on the plains of the Jordan Valley.

Way up on the left lay Jericho, our objective, and on the right and south the head of the Dead Sea, with the Turkish port of Rujm el Bahr distinctly visible. Evidently the Turks had evacuated Nehy Musa during the night, for the Column advanced without resistance, and camped a short distance from the village of Jericho. The horses which had not been watered for 30 hours, and the men for 20, found abundance of excellent water in a small

[Page 67]
stream on the town outskirts. Being curious of investigating Jericho, I rode through it, and must say I was disgusted with its filthiness and squalor. The Turks during their residence, had not improved the cleanliness or sanitation of the village, and which, by way of showing their
appreciation for hospitality(?) received from the dwellers, pillaged them the night before we took possession. Jericho is just a small, uninteresting, dirty little village, and but for its biblical interest and romantic situation is a place to avoid. The Turks, who are grand past masters in the at of retiring left behind a number of their wounded, in a shamble they called hospital. They left behind no booty, and evacuated with all their artillery. We captured only some 30 prisoners – wretched specimens of beings, unshaven, unkempt and hungry

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21st Feby

During the afternoon I had a fascinating run down to Rujm el Bahr, in an armoured car from Jericho. The Jordan Valley which is quite flat and devoid of trees of any description, is covered here and there with clumps of sage and salt bush.

It is a vale of loneliness and desolation. Towards the Dead Sea the slight fall in the valley has caused the Waddles to evade the land and cut themselves in very deeply. Magnificent hiding for lurking foes. The road we found deeply rutted, being evidence of heavy and much traffic. Rujm el Bahr which has been under our keen observation for sometime, was used by the Turks as a port to land grain brought from the southern producing end of the Dead Sea. I made a hurried investigation of the evacuated port, and found the place in the same characteristic disorder and filth, as always when the enemy are ejected. The port

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which is made up of a number of matchwood 'buildings, galvanised iron roofed, is built on the northern shore of the Dead Sea and not far from the Mouth of the Jordan. The mill was still in conflagration and there were evidences of a hurried evacuation. Knowing the Turks cunning for netting "Boobytraps" I neither ventured inside any of the buildings, nor collected' souvenirs - not even did I turn off the fresh water taps he left running. There is no doubting the salinity of the Dead Sea. Its taste is like acid and seems to be impregnated with Calcium, Sodium Chloride and Bromine to saturation. I returned in the evening to Jericho and camped on the verandah of the hospital; the rooms within being unsanitary, owing to lice and Typhus.

22nd February

A disturbed night owing to the groans of the wounded and typhus patients

[Page 70]
22 Feby

who occupied a room immediately behind our sleeping place, and also on account of the frequent showers. At early morning I desired to visit the Jordan and secure a series of photographs of our front line. According to reliable information the Turks had absconded to the Western bank of the river, and our front line lay directly along the eastern bank, being patrolled by the New Zealanders; accordingly I set out in the Ford accompanied by Drs A'Heame and Wybird. We ran along the excellent road which runs in a direct line from Jericho to the Jordan bridge for a distance of four miles. Anticipating this road to be enfiladed by enemy artillery, I ordered the car to be secreted in some near by bushes, and turned about ready for home (this move subsequently saved it) In the dim light of daybreak,

[Page 71]
I noticed a patrol of come 12-15 Cavalry on our right, with about 6 on the left; naturally thinking they were our own patrols, we leisurely walked in their direction. When only 400 yards distant, we were speedily disillusioned by a volley of rifle fire. There was no mistaking identity now; for I discovered we had all but run into a patrol of Turkish Cavalry. As the distance between us and the car was too great to make, and I did not wish the whole of the rifle fire to be directed against us, should we attempt to escape in the car, I gave the order for the car to immediately get out of range. As it disappeared from view, the batteries enfilading the road from the east bank of the Jordan, opened up and sniper its retreat with 10 pounders.

[Page 72]
22 Feby

Fortunately it arrived in Jericho after running a gauntlet of well ranged Pipsqueaks. Our own position now was highly hazardous. We dodged from cover to cover amongst the sparse and stunted sage bush, evading the fusillade of rifle fire and sniping at 400 yards range. Evidently the appearance of our car and the sangfroid of its passengers, in the midst of the patrol
rather discomforted them, for they made no attempt to advance, but were content to snipe at increasing range. When we became winded, we crawled into a large bush, and lay there perfectly quiet, until the little sandy spurts and Feu de-joys ended. Evidently thinking we still kept in hiding, the enemy vigorously shelled our position. The small 10 pounder shells, however, were as effective as his rifle fire, and we still kept under

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cover. After an hour and a half in this cramped attitude, I decided to make shift to return. This had to be done with great caution, as we were under observation and the country both flat and devoid of good cover. By cutting a quantity of salt bush, and binding it into a bundle so as to
imitate a couple of bushes, A'hearne and I set about our escape. Keeping our heads to the enemy position with the screen in front, we wriggle- on our stomachs back to safety taking advantage of every little bit of cover. Through the screen we could distinctly see enemy horsemen still alert for our reappearance. After covering ½ a mile in this ignominious position, the cover became sufficiently thick to allow us to crawl, which we did for nearly a mile. During this undignified retreat, I had

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ample opportunity to study the beautiful Anemones, Marguerites, Wild Stocks, etc, which were in full blossom. I could not help laughing at the absurdity of it all. Here were we, apparently sane men crawling away from a foe whom we never met nor bore grudge against. With God's own blue Sky above, and the warm sun, and the beautiful flowers offering up their sweet perfume, the Jordan hills all around and the Jordan flowing its peaceful course just over there, and yet we dare not even bob our heads up to look at all this glory !

We were now on safe ground, and reasonably away from close observation, so that we got up and walked away like men. We met a body of Light Horse coming to our rescue, but fortunately we

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were able to carry out my maxim of "He who gets himself into trouble should have the resource to extricate himself” (Wyblrd who managed to escape, into good cover, had long since returned). We returned, really as if we had accomplished something, to Jericho, Generals Chayton and Cox congratulated us on our escape, and the information we were able to give was of value. So ended a mornings excitement which I thoroughly enjoyed. There is no doubt had we been armed and came to engagement with the enemy, we would have been either wiped out, or at the best captured. (We had already been given up for the latter) The enemy for whom I hold great contempt, evidently did not know what to make of our silence and anticipated doubtless

[Page 76]
we were either decoys or an ambush.

The objective of Jericho had been gained, and as it was only our intention to hold it for 24 hours, so that a new line might be established on the hills controlling the valley. The brigade evacuated the position at 7 pm.

In the Ford we made a hurried return towards Jerusalem along the new Jericho road and camped in small shelter over a well near Bethany. The road itself for scenery is far ahead of the run from Latron to Jerusalem, over which I have previously raved so much about. It is a wonderful engineering feat winding along the sides of mountain gorges, but always upward, upward. The level of the Dead Sea is 1192 feet below Mediterranean level, and

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the Mount Of Olives about 3,800 ft. above. The distance i between Jericho and Jerusalem is about 25 miles.

23 February

Cold, misty and wet morning. We returned via Jerusalem to Durian (about 40 miles) It was bitterly cold returning home and much of the fine scenery was obscured by the driving mists. arrived at Durian 12.30 pm. Afternoon I set about packing up for my return to the Flying Corps.

24th February Sunday

At 7 am left for Julius, [Julis] (about 45 miles) The road is in a frightful condition, and as my joints were all stiff from my crawling exploits, I felt it rather severely. Arrived Julius 11.30 Just in time to photograph the inspection by

[Page 78]
the G.O.C. General Chevaulle. Arranged programme for tomorrow, when, weather permitting I will take part in a bomb raid.

25 February

At 10. 30 am seven machines set out on a bombing raid to El Kerak and El Kutrani. The firmer is about 70 miles distant, and therein are quartered a large number of Turkish Cavalry. El Kutrani is an important railway siding on the Hejaz railway another 20 miles further East. The clear weather became very gusty as we crossed the Judean hills at 8,000 feet, and very cold. The wonderful scenery of the Ranges viewed from this elevation beggars description. The mountains appear to be great plugs of limestone covered with stunted growth and around their bases the Waddies,

[Page 79]
Now dry, have cut deep channels. These ramify like a great system of Arteries and viens, and bear some testimony to the force of water which rushes down the precipitous slopes, during the torrential rains of Jany --- April. We crossed the Dead Sea at Point Molyneux, there the sea is constricted into a narrow waist by a curious peninsula of flat land (about the middle of the sea) and is only about four miles wide. It lay below us like a great stagnant blue pool, ripples and dead. From our height we could look from end to end of its abysmal basin, the High ranges surrounding the waveless shores like the walls of a mighty dam. Below us the fleet of Bombing planes soared like great birds, making the desolation reecho with the hum of power. Yet it all looked so peaceful

[Page 80]
25th Feby

that the mission of death and destruction on which we were bent, God knows was hellish enough; and it would be an unnatural being who could look down upon the majesty of nature below, smiling and peacefully not feel regretful. Across the narrows of the Sea we passed, and up over the great mountains and chasms that to the eastern shore. Clouds rolled and the chaos of mountains and valleys are chequered with sunshine and shadows.

Just in front of us lay the large village of Kerak, Built on the crest of a high hill, it seemed impregnable enough and its only vulnerable point from above. At the Southern End on the precipice edge, lay the Citadel which we noticed to be swarming Turkish troops. This was one of the objectives of our raid. (El Kerak was the

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most eastern point reached by the crusaders, and probably the Citadel is a relic of those times). The machines circled like great vultures over the doomed Citadel, and I could distinctly see the large 100 lb bombs drop through the air. With a great detonation one fell directly in the courtyard. God knows what heinous carnage it wrought, but the whole place lay obscured by the dust of crunched masonry and smoke. We then fled on our mission of destruction to Kutrani. At the station lay a train under full steam and about 100 rolling stock. Close by we observed a new Hun Aerodrome with five Hangars and a number of machines out on the flying ground. We bombed them lustily, and returned with all speed fearing pursuit by hostile aircraft.

[Page 82]
Nor were we left alone by the Archies. They fired at us until outranged, but the shooting was "rotten". Returning home we encountered squally winds, so that the machine went through all the evolutions of a small boat in a sea. It was with relief that the home Hangars came in sight, and we glided down to mother earth, which we touched as a feather, and taxied up to the big Hangars, where the machines were quickly housed. After a wash we went across to lunch where the topic naturally was the raid, and we all wondered how many we had killed and wounded

26 Feby

Wretched weather too had for flying. Overhauled Cinema and photographic gear.

[Page 83]
27 Feby /18

Bad weather continues with high a squalls and rains making flying absolutely impossible. Pottering around Aerodrome and cursing the weather lustily.

28 Feby /18

Weather improved considerably, and made another attempt to take the Jerusalem film. Unfortunately big packs of heavy cumulus formed when we were crossing the Judean Hills, which effectually obscured the landscape. Flying above the clouds was like floating on the wings of the mists. They assumed every description of fantastic form from snowy mountains to great rolling billows. Occasionally I had a flitting glimpse of the

[Page 84]
land below and of Jerusalem streaked with sun and shadow. Beautiful as it nil was, I was disappointed as time wears on and I feel that I am not spending it to bent advantage. Still this film must be complete or the ground work stages will be valueless. I am hopeful of it clearing off on the morrow.

1st March

The looked for fine day arrived at last and enabled me to complete my film with the Aust Flying Squadron. We left the Hangers in a Bristol at 10 am and in 20 minutes was once more climbing in the blue sky over the Judean summer. Another 15 minutes and Jerusalem lay below us. Although over 3,500 feet above sea level

[Page 85]
From our great height it appeared as if nestling amongst the chaos of limestone ranges. The pellucid atmosphere enabled us to look clearly over the Dead Sea, the Jordan Valley, and on the West, away to the sea. We circled around the city a number of times and I took both films and “still” pictures from heights 8,000 to 10,000 feet. We returned to the Aerodrome 12 oclock and after lunch I bid adieu to my very kind friends of the Flying Corps and returned to Desert Corps at Durian 35 miles.

2nd March

I make this entry in my diary 7 pm in my little bivouac, which is now pitched midway between Jerusalem and Jericho. I left Corps at 11 am, and in the Box Ford took with me Sergeant Campbell. The weather is glorious at last and

[Page 86]
should it so continue I anticipate being away two days. My motive is to take films and pictures along the wonderful Jerusalem – Jericho road, which I was unable to do during my last visit on account of rains.

Have just succeeded in burning a large hole in my trousers with a cigarette end and must now repair it ere turning in.

3rd March Sunday

The early morn amongst the hills is like being in another sphere. Clear, crisp and exhilarating, one feels imbued with new life; for who could feel otherwise amidst this smiling nature and world of flowers. Around our tiny camp they are like a patterned carpet and I recognised at least a dozen of our familiar garden favourites

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blooming in their wild straggling and charming: way. Early on the road we had little difficulty with traffic congestion, which later in the day hampers one owing to the narrowness of the mountain road. Being desirous of travelling along the old Jericho road, we turned from the new route and explored this now little used pathway. We found it in very bad condition with rolling stones and ruts, but the jolting which nearly threw us from the car, was more than recompensed by the magnificent scenery. The old road winds along the gorge of the Wady Kilt ;and at every turn displays some gem of mountain peak, cliff or chasm, with an occasional outlook down onto the Jordan Valley

[Page 88]
and the Dead Sea. The descent into the valley itself is extremely steep, but the View! It's marvellous! The Jordan valley, here must be 15 miles wide. Jericho lay immediately infront and through the Eastern End of the Valley there were occasional glimpses of the River and of its debouche into the Dead Sea.

We took the main road, which leads close in under the Western mountains on the return, and joined up with the new track. The run home took a little over 4 ½ hours. This will probably be my last trip for many a long day in these parts, and I feel both sorry and reluctant to leave this land of wonders and beauty.

4th March

Spent morning in packing up and left Desert Corps, Durian

[Page 89]
at 5 pm to join 7 pm train from Ludd to Cairo.

The last ride through the orchards to Ramleh, along the red, narrow cactus hedged lanes made on me a deep impression of sadness for leaving this place of sunshine, freedom and flowers. The Judean Hills that I shall never forget, were just turning purple in the sunset; every landmark, village or well known place, I left as if I were parting with friends. Oh Palestine! garden of Eden, home of bounteous nature, may I live to come back to you again; for thou art indeed a dreamland of beauty and happiness.

I must make an entry of gratitude for the generous assistance and unbounded hospitality of all I have come in contact with

[Page 90]
and whom I met as an utter stranger, and from whom I part as friends. Retrospecting on my efforts, I feel conscientiously satisfied -I have done my best.

5th March

Quite a comfortable run through the night, during which I slept most of the time, landed us at Kentara at 5.30 am. Breakfasted at the excellent little rent camp, managed by that admirable woman, Mrs Chisholm, and left by train for Cairo 9.15a.m. An uninteresting ride of two hours, through sandy expanses, and then through as abrupt change into fertile irrigated lands for another two brought us to Cairo. I made my Hdqrtrs at that fine Hotel The Continental. I anticipate being in Cairo for at least 10 days as all my work has to

[Page 91]
be submitted to Censorship. Have arranged that Sgnt Campbell should take over the official Photographic work on this front.

7th March

In order to further safeguard against submarining risk, I have arranged that a good glossy print be produced from each negative, and kept at our Cairo War Records department, and that the Cinema film be duplicated. This latter entirely depends on the ability to secure sufficient film for the purpose. Afternoon had most enthralling -walk through the Mouski and afternoon tea with Gullett. Dined with him and went for an evening drive. Weather is hot, dull and enervating.

8th March 18

Spent the lay at the Pyramids taking color photographs. I

[Page 92]
found the most pictorial setting down In the Mena village, where one has glorious glimpses through the date palms. Around Mena itself, the plain in beautiful condition. The crops are well advanced, and thriving luxuriantly. Nature rewards labors here bounteously, and it would be difficult to find more arable and fertile lands than these flat stretches irrigated by Nile waters.

The Pyramids, now that the glamour of expectancy and curiosity of inspecting them for the first time has worn off, I was able to view them from a more mechanical standpoint.

This analysing method amassed me more than ever; and striving to compare their prodigious mass with any of our present age architecture, I felt it like comparing the efforts of pigmies against Titans.

[Page 93]
[No entries from 8th March until 5th May, 1918]
Safe at last. Dropped anchor in the Downs, 6 pm. Wretched fog all day with rain.

6th May

At high tide steamed up the Thames and by means of lighter landed at TilBury 5 pm.

Put up at the Imperial Hotel Russel Sq. Evening went to Daily Chronicle and saw Perris. He informed me the rights of the Shackleton Film have been sold on the Continent for £5,000 and the British for another £5,000. The film is now free of all encumberances and any further sales of rights will be distributed.

[Page 94]
7th May

Since leaving Port Said, I have been suffering from a severe cold. It has now turned into Laryngitis and deprived me of my voice - much to my embarrassment at the present time. The big exhibition of Australian War pictures opens in the Grafton Galleries on the 25th May when the whole results of my ten months work will be exhibited. Visited Australia House and met Captain Smart who has had the show in hand, and arranged for officeS in the building in which I am to work.

8th May
Visited the Grafton Galleries and looked over the wall space. Also went to Raines and Coy. of Ealing, who are doing the enlargements. Many of the pictures are being enlarged up to 20 feet x 12 feet.

[Page 95]
The work is well in hand, and looks magnificent.

9th May

Selecting negatives and arranging pictures with L.ieut Leist.

Leist has been for borne time assisting in producing the pictures whilst I was away in Palestin. Bought a bracelet from Stewart Dawson for Tony £57.10

10th May

To Australia House where I now have office and with Leist arranging prints for the coming exhibition. The work is extremely tedious as I have such an abundance of subjects and find great difficulty in selection. Cold continues to incapacitate my voice which embarrasses me greatly.

[Page 96]
11th May 1918

Arranging the Exhibition pictures. Afternoon to Daily Chronicle and meet Curtis and Bussey. Voice refuses to work.

12th May Sunday

Dreary wet morning, which I occupied at Australia House. Afternoon went for a stroll to Hyde Park and listened to the band. The trees are especially beautiful just now, as they are springing into leaf. The grass is Emerald . Meals at the Hotel.

There are days in the week on which meat is not procurable and on those days it ill necessary to present a coupon to receive it. On meatless days, the deficiency is made up by fish or omelette. It

[Page 97]
is also necessary to present a ticket which authorises one to a sugar ration. This ration entails no hardships on the public, as there is plenty of food in the country, and I doubt not if it does not improve the health of the community.

13th May

Into Australia House at 9 am. Lunch 1.15 to 2.15 pm. Return to Hotel about 8 pm Constitutes my day's hours. There is much work to be done in conjunction with the exhibition, so that I have very little time. After dinner I go to bed to give my severe laryngitis a chance.

14th May

On exhibition work arranging the Palestine Walls.

[Page 98]
( 15th May Wednesday
( 16th

On exhibition work.

During my visit to Palestine affairs have been frightfully muddled. Pictures were made from wretched subjects indiscriminately and without consideration to size. The result has been a waste of time endeavouring to make pictures fit. Double the amount of work has therefore been thrust on me.

17th
Today I received a batch of Color reproductions from the Paget Plate Coy. The Palestine results are far beyond my expectations. The colors such as one only sees in Palestine have been rendered perfectly and should be one of the main features of the exhibition.

[Page 99]
18th May

Received letters from Tony which have buoyed me up greatly.

Having a spell of beautiful weather which is assisting my cold, voice is improving, but still very weak. Physically am fit as a fiddle.

19th Sunday

At office all day on exhibition work and writing up. To bed early. I have made a point of going to bed after dinner so as to give my throat every possible chance.

At 10.380 pm an air raid warning was given. (A number of anti aircraft guns being fired also syrens being blown). Fifteen minutes later the Hun machines came over in considerable force and were immediately fired upon vigorously. The sky was a blaze of searchlights

[Page 100]
and the continuous firing of the guns sounded like the progress of a miniature artillery duel.
As is the case, all the top floor guests made for the 1st floor and crammed the passages - Your humble remained in bed. During raids, if one ventures out, he is just as likely to be hit with
our own falling shrapnel and shell splinters. Several large pieces fell close alongside the hotel, and one actually into the lounge. The raid kept over the Sth and SE End where they dropped bombs and incendiaries. The raid was not over until nearly two am.

20th May Whit Monday Holiday

Four Enemy planes were brought down last night. The casualties were heavy, being over 120. But no official figures are yet available. Went in to office.

[Page 101]
and writing up a lecture for the Color plates. Time is passing very quickly, and I am seriously perturbed the exhibition will not be ready by its official opening date.

21st May

Over 40 people were killed and 160 injured by the raid. Kept extremely busy overseeing the exhibition enlgts.

Evening with a Mr. Slattery and an American friend for a quiet stroll to Hyde Park. Returned via Tube. It is pathetic to see the number of poor folk with babies in arms, and children at skirts, waiting outside the tube stations to seek cover below in case of air raid warning.

22nd May

Had Military car placed at my disposal for a week to assist me in running around collecting exhibition material.

[Page 102]
22nd May

not a picture is yet hung and the show is to open on the 24th!

23rd May

Ill fortune was with us this morning. A heavy thunderstorm overtook the van conveying pictures from Ealing with the result that several of the very large pictures stuck together. We had no end of trouble repairing the darnage, but the trouble now is scarcely noticeable. Extremely busy picture hanging and arranging the projection lantern. Heaven knows how things are going to be ready by the morrow.

24th May

Worked until 1 AM this morning and we managed to cover the walls chiefly with substitute pictures. I was particularly disgusted with

[Page 103]
the arrangements. Capt Smart who has then in hand utterly lacks power of organization, and I have to thank him for more or less presenting the exhibition in an extemporised and unfinished condition. I was so disgusted that I did not appear at the official opening, and I believe things were more or less mixed up by the projecting man for the color work being missing.

Here again Smart showed his incompetence by discovering at the Iast minute that the hall for projecting purposes had been previously engaged. Everything was left until the last minute, and had I not returned from Palestine in the nick of time the whole fruits of my work would have been so much waste time. I expect to have things complete and in satisfactory order in a week's time.

[Page 104]
25th May

The exhibition was well patronised today. The color lantern is working excellently, but I regret the best of my pictures have yet to be hung. There are about 130 exhibits exclusive of the artists room. The largest picture an Episode during the battle of Zonnebeke [West Flanders] measures about 21ft x 15 ft. It is a combination of 12 negatives. The color slides depict scenes on the West Front, Flanders, and also Palestine. They are gems and elicit applause at every showing. A military band plays throughout the day.

26th: 27th: 28th:

Time occupied in completing the exhibition. Our largest picture, "The Raid" depicting an episode at the Battle of Zonnebeke measures

[Page 105]
over 20 ft in length x 15 ft 6 high. Two waves of infantry are leaving the trenches in the thick of a Boche Barrage of shells and shrapnel. A flight of Bombing Aeroplanes accompanies them. An enemy plane is burning in the foreground. The whole picture is realistic of battle, the atmospheric effects of battle smoke are particularly fine. Another sensational picture is “Death the Reaper”. This remarkable effect is made up of two negatives. One, the foreground, shows the mud splashed corpse of a Boche floating in a shell crater. The second is an extraordinary shell burs: The form of which resembles death.

The Palestine series are magnificent. Collectively it is a rare exhibition, and from the point of view of art and from the criticism I have heard is

[Page 106]
ahead of anything which has been shown in this country. It is some recompense to see ones work shown to the masses, and to receive favourable criticism after the risks and hardships I have taken and endured to secure the negative. The pictures represent 10 months active field work.

29th May

Still busy on picture making and hanging. The exhibition is at last assuming shape, and looks truly magnificent. The color slides are wonders. The daily attendance numbers 600. I receive press notices almost daily and also a great many letters of congratulation.

30th May /18
31 “
1 June, 2nd June

[Page 107]
Very little transpires just now beyond night and day work at the Galleries completing. The Exhibition is a magnificent display of photographic technique and is well partonised. The color plates are the great attraction - they are superb. The colors are accurate, and project wonderfully brilliantly on the screen. They merit and receive great applause. I am asking that this set of pictures be sent to Australia and retained for the National collection of War Pictures.

Great speculation and anxiety exists as to whether the Germans will reach Paris. It is the topic of conversation. Things don't appear as bright as they might be.

[Page 108]
3rd June

Received second batch of letters from the little wife.

All day at the Galleries. Attendance improving. 900 passing through during the day.

4 June

Wilkins came over from France. He was awarded the M.C. I received nothing. I feel very much receiving no recognition as I took equal share and risks. I worked day and night to secure the results, and have made the entire exhibition. There has been string pulling . Wilkins certainly deserved the M.C. but there should have been no distinction. I have prepared everything in the Exhibition and have no acknowledgement, financial or otherwise.

[Page 109]
5th June

Capt Bean whom we directly come under, came over today and visited the Exhibition. I am urging that the present set of enlargements be sent to Australia for propaganda. No better medium could we possibly have. The Exhibition has boon pronounced by experts to be the best since the beginning of the war.

6th June
7 and 8 June

At Galleries. Have great difficulty in securing capable lecturers for the color slides. The attendance is rapidly on the increase. I am having a great fight to secure the pictures for Australia. It makes me lose patience when I see all my efforts over which I spent

[Page 110]
all my time and risked my life thrown to the winds. I'm so sick and fed up with the whole affair, that I don't care what happens. Whether the pictures are ruined by touring provincial towns, or whether they ever reach Australia. After all it is my own fault for not making proper arrangements at the beginning.

9th June Sunday

Galleries open from 3 till 6 over 1000 passed through in the short interval.

10th )
11 )
12 )
13 )
Spend time on connecting up film and at Galleries.

14th June to 21st June

I have omitted a week from my

[Page 111]
diary, having been no disgusted with the treatment I have receive from the High Commissioners office, and the A.I.F. It has worried me considerably. A deadlock has been arrived at which excludes me from taking the Exhibition of my own pictures to Australia. Unfortunately I have no say whatsoever in what is to be done with my own negatives and results. The injustice done me has embittered me greatly against the A.I.F. Fortunately I made certain arrangements at the beginning which enables me to resign, and I have unhesitatingly done so. The only reason Aust. House abscribe to their attitude is because I am soliciting publicity. They accuse me of making a Hurley show of the Exhibition. Which is an infernal

[Page 112]
lie. I have contended that all photographs by whomsoever they are taken, should bear the name in the corner of the taker, and he should be mentioned in conjunction with them wherever possible. I also had in the color pictures a slide of a pile of shells. It appeared in this picture and it was removed from the collection! The treatment has been so mean unnecessary, and unjustifiable, that I have washed my hands absolutely with the A.I.F. and will not be identified with, nor give any further efforts on their behalf.

Here is 12 months of my life thrown away. All my experience, enthusiasm, (for the work was my hobby) my color slides, films, and results, I consider fruitless.

[Page 113]
It seems beyond conception that a government can assume such an attitude; which is nothing but the outcome of personal jealousy. I do not intend to let the matter drop here but will have it taken up further by the Australian press. The wretched management of the exhibition, the absurd lectures, and the indolent manner in which everything was conducted gave a stigma to the whole show that was decidedly derogatory. Officially the show closes on the 22nd inst.

I have fought hard to take all the pictures to Australia for propaganda purposes, but am up against a stone wall. They are being sent around the provincial towns; Starting with Blackall and Brighton!!! In conclusion I offered to produce a

[Page 114]
duplicate set of pictures, but was also turned down.

I cannot understand at all the attitude of the A.I.F. in the matter. All the photographers, British, Canadian, and even my own Section have received recognition for their services and I have been conspicuously turned down!

Still I have come out best after all, had it not been for the Military, I had not met and married my little partner, who indeed is worth undergoing the tribulations of a lifetime for, and I have made many friends, and have visited the battlefields of France and Palestine. Surely after all this is a recompense. The time will surely come when I shall be able to repay the other injustices.

[Page 115]
21st June to 10th July /18

As this gap indicates, very little of change or importance has transpired. I have neither visited nor taken further interest in the exhibition and am so embittered against the High Commissioner's office, that relations have been entirely broken off.

I am now negotiating with a Mr. Mar tin, late of the Fraser Films of Sydney and my old friend. Fred Gent, of the same firm, London, to form a small syndicate to exploit the Mawson, Shackleton, and Scott film throughout Australasia. We have secured the Scott film and
the others are well on the way. It is my intention to leave Martin who has an unsurpassed

[Page 116]
21st June to 10th July

knowledge of the film business throughout Australasia to handle the commercial side, whilst I will attend to all producing and lecturing matters. Gent will act as London Agent.

11th July

I have officially resigned today from the A.I.F. and have been Gazetted to the Reserve List. It is good to be free once more and to be untrammelled by military dogmas and discipline.

12th July

My two very dear friends Mr & Mrs Filmore are holiday making up in Yorkshire, and I have received pressing invitations. Feeling very seedy

[Page 117]
through worry and the cooped upness of Hotel life and London’s murky atmosphere, I packed my contraptions and found myself in the 10 am bound North. Gee, it was pleasure to leave behind the dismal weather and murk of London for the free open country again. I booked through for Whitby, where, after numerous changes and crammings we arrived at 5 pm. The train service is extremely curtailed and one is lucky to find a seat these times. At Whitby I met the Filmores and we had a very enjoyable walk around the quaint little Quay. Quite an old world village with the typical "Jacobs" characters lounging around the water fronts. We had afternoon

[Page 118]
tea overlooking the quaint harbor, with its red tiled villas terraced one above the other like amphitheatre seats. Danby lies another 14 miles, and at 6 p.m. we caught another slow train. The scenery is theses parts is delightful, great rolling hills with a tiny stream –“The Esk" winding through the valley, and typical sleeping villages nestling amongst the trees or clustered on the hillsides. We are staying at a delightfully comfortable little Hostel with the Cognomen, The Fox and Hounds displayed over the entrance. It stands on the top of a rise with moorland and farmlands all around, an ideal Haven of rest and recuperation. And such food! Good clean

[Page 119]
and wholesome : home made everything by Mrs Hewison, the landlady - a dear old soul - who discourses at great length on country topics, in the pretty I amusing accents of Yorkshire and who imagines London to be just a long street with farms and garden plots and pigs and fowls running about as in her own secluded valley. To bed – Oh! so comfortable at 9.30 pm.

13th July /18

Beautifully and sunshine. Mr and Mrs Filmore and self went for a long walk amongst the fields and over the hills. Everywhere reigns peace – and oh, the air! so pure and bracing made us feel good to be alive. Appetites. What Ho.

[Page 120]
The good things at The Fox and Hounds just faded away. Afternoon we spent picking blue berries on the ride of a big moorland bluff, covered with verdant bracken and purple heather. To bed at 9.30 pm and deep in slumber till 7.30 am.

14th Sunday July

Changeable weather with misty rain and wind: still we had lengthy wander over the hills and quilted like landscape. From the ridge tops one had transcending glimpses of variegated countryside and valleys, which resembled a giant checker board set out in
every possible gradation of greens and browns. The road way through the valleys passed

[Page 121]
by quaint old fashioned farmhouses, red tiled and homely, and tiny little pastures and grain fields all bounded by rock piled walls. It made me feel a new being after the murky
atmosphere and confined life of London; especially as at the present time my health is not the best.

During the day we must have covered 14 miles.

15th July Monday

With Mr Filmore to the crest of a high hill celled Danby Beacon, about 5 miles from "Home". There we stayed all day. He sketching and me loafing in the sun doing nothing but recuperate in the pure air - read Omar and watch the ever changing play of sunshine and shadow in the valleys or on the hills.

[Page 122]
15th Jluy /18

The Heather is just bursting into bloom and the moorland is a gorgeous carpet of purple and deepest green. I scarcely enjoyed a walk more. Mrs F. is a lovable companion and we chatted over our many experiences and times.

16th July 18
Stor my weather and rain throughout the night. Up at 6 am and left Danby for London by the 7.45 am train. The few days spell has done me a great deal of good and the sun and rest cure has quite given me a fresh lease of life. Changed trains at Middleborough and had a few miles walk around town, which I found uninviting .

[Page 123]
[Sketch labelled “View from top of Danby Beacon, 15 July 18”, by Filmore]

[Page 124]
16th July

Thence by train to Darlington, where I was interested to find two of George Stephensons engines set up on the station. One of which ran on the Stockton - Darlington railroad from 1825 for over 20 years. (Weight 6 tons, size of cylinder 10 in x 24 in stroke) Darlington changed into through train for Kings Cross.

Arrived punctually at 5 pm. The passenger averaging Just on 50 mph. But in spite of the speed, I found the run maddening. My temperament of late I regret is becoming restless, peevish and impetuous. I attribute this lamentable condition to illhealth and worry. Returned to my old quarters at the

[Page 125]
Imperial Hotel, Russell

17th July /18

Have been endeavouring for some time past to secure the rights for Australasia of the Shackleton Mawson and Scott films. This latter has been secure. Mawson is favorably inclined, but a
deadlock has been arrived at with Perris, who is endeavouring to drive a hard bargain. This work is holding me up in London. I am keenly anxious to leave and join my wife, but the securing of those films should enable me to form the neucleus of a considerable business in Australia. So I am doing my utmost to drive a bargain.

18 July /18

[Page 126]
18th July

Busy day interviewing and endeavouring to secure agencies.

Martin, who will be my partner, has secured the Aust/sian rights of the Scott film on a profit sharing arrangement with Herbert Ponting (the Scott Photographer) viz. each takes 50% of the profits. Sir D Mawson also appears willing.

19th July

After over a months negotiation I have at last secured the Australasian rights of the Shackleton Pictures. For these I had to rescind my 1/5 share in the rest of the world's rights. (The British and Continental being already sold). I received 400 Lantern slides,

[Page 127]
2 copies of the film, and £250. As these will realise immediately on exhibition in Australia I think the deal reasonable. Wretched weather prevails just now in London and there is a greet epidemic of Spanish influenza.

Everyone is cheerful at present on account of the successful French offensive.

20th July

Saw Mawson during morning with Martin and Gent projected the Mawson film, which I consider superior to either Shackleton or Scott.

Dined with Sir Douglas and his lady and then went through his lantern slides and pictures of the expedition. He has a magnificent collection and unsurpassed.

[Page 128]
We definitely agreed on the showing of the film throughout Australasia. I consider we have scored an achievement, as we now have the rights of the Scott, Mawson and Shackleton films. The three films and expeditions over here are antagonistic, and to have secured the entire three in one mutual interest is indeed something to be proud of. We intend showing the films throughout Australasia, I will lecture to the three. Afterwards if affairs and profits justify, I will start a photographic works.

21st July /18 Sunday

Went morning to Keat Raines & Coy Ealing where my private collection of War pictures are

[Page 129]
being finished - they look magnificent. Afternoon went to Hyde Park and lay down in the grass to get some fresh air and sunshine.

22nd July

Spent most of the lay with Martin and Ponting attending to most of details concerned with the lecturing to the Scott film. I am greatly impressed with Ponting, whom I have found a gentleman, both of manners art! actions and conscience. Evening at his flat where we were entertained with the gramophone.

23rd July 18. Tuesday

Interviewed Solicitor re Shackleton Picture rights. Afternoon went through slides

[Page 130]
23rd July 18

with Mawson and Martin to make a selection of slides. AIso went to Doctor having an attack of Pyrrca [?], which has been giving me much annoyance.

24th July 18.

All day with Ponting on his lecture. Ponting is quite a charming character, honorable and a man to be relied upon. I like him immensely. He is however, frightfully finnicky, with too much regard for trifles, which he is prone to magnify to the extent of worrying himself. His work I cannot speak too highly in praise of and I set him up as an ideal.
Evening withMartin discussing

[Page 131]
business affairs till near midnight.

25th July

Morning sorting out Shackleton’s negatives for slides. Afternoon at Will Days establishment. Day is one of the Cinema pioneers extremely interesting, and more so, as he has a fine collection of machines of deep historical interest which show the development of the Cinema and moving pictures from the first stages up till today.

I left with him to dispose of for me, 1 Pathe Camera with 6 boxes in all, a turntable tilting top and stand). Signed contract with Shackleton which gives me the entire Australasian rights of the film and "stills'.

Night at Mawson's flat sorting out slides for his lecture. An endless job finished at is midnight.

[Page 132]
26th July.

Morning, promenading London and try and purchase a 5 x 4 Reflex ,a Typewriter, and a pair prism Binoculars. I visited practically every house worth visiting. Cameras are impossible. It i s nearly two years since my were made and they are all sold out. The few second hand instruments are extortionate in price. Typewriters are worse. The import is forbidden with the result that almost any instrument fetches double or trible its original price. “Coronas" which were £11/10/- pre war are now unpurchaseable. I saw only one a miserable secondhander for £25. Yosts and Smiths are as high, second hand, as £s;40. and I heard of

[Page 133]
a brand new machine being sold for £100. Decent glasses are unbuyable without an order and then the prices are beyond reason.

Boots run at 2/5/. - 2/15/- and upwards! Leather goods are luxuries. Afternoon to Ponting's flat selecting lantern slides.

27th July /18

Have extremely little spare time at present. The preparation of the expedition films and slides needs my own personal, selection, care and attention.

Left Hotel at 8 am and to Raines & Coy. at Ealing. Put in hand Shackleton slides. Afternoon to Sir Douglas Mawson’s and with him through the expeclition films &slides. Sir Douglas and his lady are the

[Page 134]
embodiment of kindness and hospitality: and in proportion as my esteem for him increases so does it wane for Shackleton. The latter is inclined to forget his obligations, and is purely on the lookout for gain. So hotel at midnight dog-tired.

28th July /18. Sunday

With Martin to the Daily Chronicle and put in the day selecting sections of the Shackleton film for Australia. Feeling pretty fed up and anxious to get away and join the wife in Egypt and then home. Labour is very scarce and work takes an "unconscionable” time arid it, owing to unskilled labor, in many oases has to be redone.

[Page 135]
The Shackleton lecture shows 100 slides
The Mawson “ “ 150 “
The Scott “ “ 80 “
and as fine sets of each are being made, it means about 1,600 slides in all! Quite a tall order to make each perfect. In addition two copies of 5,000 feet film each have to be made for each expedition. 30,000 feet film, and all to be carefully toned and stained.

29th July Monday

With Mawson morning, with Ponting on Scott film afternoon, with Mawson again evening till midnight. Shackleton film and lecture bridging in spare intervals. Am tired of the sight of films and lectures. Was paid my outstanding account with Military after some four months. A balance of £s;22 still owing will be paid in Novr by Paymaster, Victoria Barracks, Sydney.

[Page 136]
30th July Tuesday

Same as yesterday

31st July Wednesday

Went to P. & 0. and inquired sailing dates, and discover a boat is due to sail for Bombay via Port Said next Saturday. The next ship will be more than 3 later. I have decided if at all possible, to leave by the former boat. Book passage during afternoon.

1st August Thursday

My quick decision to depart for Egypt has plunged me into a whirl of confusion. The different expedition lectures and picture slides are but started. The agreement partly completed. I have, however, extreme and implicit

[Page 137]
faith in my friend Mr Fred Gent to see the work through and mail it all on to Australia by registered letter post.

A thousand and one things are to be attended to and done. From 7 am until 2.30 am (2nd) I have not had an idle moment.

2nd August

Up at 7 am and every minute filled with interviewing and completing contracts. I am tired out from the last few days. Mr Tod Martin of Sydney who has the Scott film rights, and myself entered into partnership today, to exploit the Mawson, Scott and Shackleton films throughout Australasia. I like Martin very much indeed and whilst he has the commercial knowledge,

[Page 138]
I have the technical. I will do the lecturing to these films which I anticipate will take me nearly twelve months.

Martin has been of extreme assistance in helping me with the work of contract making packing and everything generally.

To bed 2.30 am (3rd.)

3rd August Saturday

Up at 6 am. Wretched wet morning. A million things to do, and every second fleeting.

Taxi cabs impossible to secure. Just got one in time to catch the train leaving Fenchurch . Station. Ponting and Martin came down to see me off as far as Tilbary in a train packed like

[Page 139]
a tin of sardines. So infernally tired, almost impossible to walk. Did not have time to feel the regrets with which I leave London which has become a home city to me. Dear old city. I love it, and all the friends there - shall I ever see them again? I arrived at Tilbury with my endless luggage and just in time to board the Nore before the gangway was hauled up. After all it is worth while having applied myself to getting away, for a bright future opens up beyond the seas, and soon I will be re-united with the two best women in all the world, my wife, and my dear old Mater. I am deeply sorry to leave England,

[Page 140]
it has become a sacred and loved country to me. Dear old Piccadilly, Hyde Park, and the Imperial, I shall ever think of them and will look forward to the times when I will revisit them. But now I am going to apply myself whole heartedly to the business ahead which must be a success. As I write we are leaving old England's shores. They lay down even now on the hazy skyline and as they grow dimmer I seem to feel as though I have left a part of myself there. Dear old land, whenever shall I see thee more? As I wave my hand in farewell I think of the dear friends there who have made my visit a joy and given me

[Page 141]
their hospitality.

4th August

We dropped anchor yesterday evening off Deal and since then have been at rest. Miserable weaither making one feel in harmony with it. We are one of a considerable fleet of vessels, all weirdly painted in camouflage and expect to proceed on our way sometime tomorrow. Feeling fed up generally.

5th August

Proceeded to sea at 8 am damp, foggy weather. Several other of the vessels accompanying us and all escorted by a torpedo boat. When off Dungeness, we heard a

[Page 142]
5th August

loud report and on going on deck discoverer that the vessel immediately ahead of us had been torpedoed. She was at the time barely ¾ a mile away. She was slowly settling down by the head and when we came up her crew were already in the boats. She was a fine vessel of about 4t500 tons and lay just behind us at Deal. By her condition it looked as though she might be saved.

We continued our voyage towards Plymouth and running in close to the shore had a fine view of Eastbourne, Brighton and other watering places. Weather continued wretched and we ran into shelter

[Page 143]
of the Isle of Wight where anchor was dropped just off Cowes.

6th August

Torrential downpours during morning improving to bright sunshine in the afternoon. We lay at anchor just off Cowes. Irritated by the beautiful landscape of the Isle of Wight, for we were unable to go ashore. Cowes ia indeed a beautiful little township, surrounded by lawns like green carpets. During the afternoon, a vessel was towed in which had been either torpedoed or mined. We were further interested by numerous sea-planes and aeroplanes, stunting and training in the vicinity.

[Page 144]
7th August Wednesday

Proceeded to sea ere we were up with improved weather and dead calm. Unescorted, for safety we steamed in close along the shores and had a fine prospect of the beautiful Southern Coast. Delightful little beaches, sandwiched in between cliffs, with here and there stretches of sloping upland country, heavily cultivated and looking like various colored carpeting. Then there were stern cliffs bedecked with purple heather and sheer white chalk faces that resembled the great ice barrier. Many beautiful homes nestled in cosy corners surrounded by heavily foliaged trees and such lawns - verdant and velvety- as only England can boast of.

[Page 145]
At 6 pm. we came off Plymouth, which we entered. The Harbour was closely packed with vessels all ready for sea. As we wended our way amongst them we had good opportunity of studying the extraordinary designs of camouflage which was painted on them. The barbers pole, the Skeleton, Zebra, bones. The Pyramids etc., were names which the passengers facetiously but aptly christened them. Anchor was dropped just under the Butts hill, and here we are to await orders.

8th August

Beautiful morning, but no excitement beyond promenade the deck. Gaze longingly shorward and amuse

[Page 146]
ourselves at the expense of the Futurist paintings on the hulls of the anchored fleet. Afternoon I went ashore. Passengers are not allowed to leave the ship except by special permit. Officers may do so at their risk. The risk - being of missing the vessel, for no definite time can be given as to her departure. I found Plymouth a charming town of considerable size. The shops are equal to London and were well stocked both with goods and womenfolk - serving and purchasing, and found prices for the similar articles well below London.

On the way back to the

[Page 147]
Nore I passed by the original place where the Pilgrim Fathers started on their memorable venture in the Mayflower and also the identical wharf where the early emigrants left for Australia. No doubt my own family predecessors embarked at this spot.

Aboard, I found everybody more or less grumpy at being confined to what they call the floating prison. Cast off from the land by but 500 yards, it certain]y is exasperating, seeing others enjoying themselves through the binoculars at almost arm's reach.

9th August

Still we remain at our anchorage while the rest

[Page 148]
of the fleet up anchor and make for the sea. An impressive sight they made too -18 large vessels steaming out of the narrow entrance, escorted by a number of destroyers, sea planes and two dirigibles. The Passengers went ashore in a launch and returned at 4 pm as we are under orders to have steam up at 6 hours notice. They returned laden with purchases.

10th August

Most went ashore again during the day. It breaks the monotony of remaining aboard whilst awaiting our convoy. I went with Captain Blackwood and my cabin mate Ford up

[Page 149]
onto the promenade which is known as the Hoe. The Hoe looks is on to the top of a hillside and looks out to sea, across the harbour and breakwater, right out to Eddystone Lighthouse.

The lawns around the Hoe are in magnificent condition, like green velvet; it is a glorious spot. The chief attraction on the Hoe is the fine bronze statue to Sir Francis Drake. Here lies the identical green on which Drake played his famous game of bowls when the Spanish Armada hove in sight. Close by is the famous recreated Smeaton Tower. The original second lighthouse which erected on the Eddystone rock.

Great crowds gather on the green and promenade during the afternoon,

[Page 150]
for it is one of the few breathing places of Plymouth.

11th August Sunday

Still no definite sailing date. Went ashore and spent most of the day promenading around the city and inspecting. Morning to the Naval docks at Devonport, which interested us immensely. The works are of great extent and deal with every class of naval repair work and refitting. Devonport is just contiguous to Plymouth, in fact the two towns merge into one. Afternoon up onto, and enjoyed our selves sitting in the sun on the Hoe promenade. Much pleasant diversity watching the fashions, and the great

[Page 151]
Crowd, and also the ever changing panorama of the harbour.

Aboard at 7.30 pm.

12th August

With Captain Blackwood ashore for the day. Am much disgutted by the extreme delay. No word of sailing date is yet settled. Here are we a few hundred miles from London, and 10 days elapsed! Of course there are undoubtedly satisfactory reasons, , but why on earth were we not allowed to join the vessel at this port and so save at least a week's time.

Weather delightful. Spent the day in making small purchases and walking around the city which is but a poor recreation. Ship at 7.30 pm.

13th August

[Page 152]
Another day of glorious weather and more passengers went ashore. During the morning another large convoy of 18 vessels put to sea accompanied by their escorts of destroyers, mind-sweepers, aircraft and dirigibles. Captain Blackwood and self went up again on to the beautiful grounds of the Hoe where we whiled away the day lazily, hacking in chairs in the sun. I am much disgusted at this frightful waste of time, which could have been spent to great advantage in London. Although Plymouth is a delightful place for a holiday, when it is an enforced stay under such uncertain

[Page 153]
conditions as ours it if boredom. No news yet of our sailing date, - and eleven days from London!

The passengers all returned as usual laden with parcels and this evening an atmosphere of a fair reigns over the ship. A gramophone - an especially tinny one croaks away on the Bridge. Another blares away aft and amidships a mandolin tinkles away amateurishly. Oh! to be at sea, and hear even the clanking engines to this bazaar euphony.

[Page 154]
Proposed Bombing raid 67th Flying Sqdrn

Machines leaving the Hangers – 60 feet
Fixing the bombs – 50 feet
Various classes bomb – 20 feet
Machines in formation and addressing the men – 60 feet
Winding up an machines leaving ground – 100 feet
Cine from planes leaving the ground – 20 feet
In formation – 30 feet
Glimpses of Turkish territory – 100
Dropping bombs – 50 feet
Returning to earth – 80 feet
Signing off – 30 feet
Bomb bursting on the ground – 60 feet
Glimpses from air – 100
X tras – 100

[Total] – 830

Taking photographs of the result – 100
Camera and Mechanism – 50 ft

[Transcribed by David Lambert and Rosemary Cox for the State Library of New South Wales]