Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales

Sir Thomas Mitchell journal of an exploring expedition to the interior of New South Wales through the Liverpool Plain, 29 November 1831-16 February 1832
C 47

[Transcribers note: Mitchell usually used the left hand page for the body of the work and the facing page for afterthoughts which he marked by an X or other symbol, and notes, calculations and sketches. These have been inserted into the main body of the text using his symbols and putting the words in " ...". Some of his notes are extremely faint – he appears to run out of pencil and scratch the words. He was possibly using a propelling pencil, these had been invented in 1822.]

[Page 1]
1. Alexander Burnett
2. Wm Wood
3. Chester Evans
4. Timothy Cussack
5. - Worthington
6. - Delaney
7. - [indecipherable]
8. - Jones
9. – Sailmaker
10. – Brown
11. – Bullock Driver
12. – Ed. Carpenter
13. – Myself
14. – Mr. White
- 2 [indecipherable]
"Thro countreis seir, holtis and rockis hie,
Ouir vaillis, planis, woddis, wallie sey,
Ouir fludis fair and mony strait mountaine,"
Gavin Douglas

[Page 2]
from Browns Camp 14 Div. W to N. 12 miles
15 Div. W - - 12 miles
16. W. 28 N – 12 miles
- W. 18. 10 N - 13 ½ miles
W. 57.10 S – 10 miles
Tangulda W.57.10. N – 10 miles
Depot – W. 25 N – 6 miles

DS MITCHELL.

- Muscle Creek –
- Kindur Ponds – above Capt Dumeresque’s
- Wingen –
- Remarkable rock – Mulurindi – on Pages River
Mr Brown & Sandy two civil blackfellows –
Nettles – Fat here – ask natives for a root called Palliad – eat [indecipherable] or boiled –
Barragundi – hill over road to Walldoo – rd [indecipherable] of it

[Page 3]
Thursday 29th Nov. 1831
– Set out from Sydney at 12 o’clock accompanied by Col. Snodgrass to whom I bade adieu at the parting of the Liverpool & Paramatta Roads – Met Mr D’Arcy – reached Mr McArthurs at Paramatta about ½ past 3 o clock – Although not very well Mr Macarthur went over his garden with me and I was much gratified by the sight of many interesting trees and plants which that most ingenious gentleman is endeavouring to propagate in the colony – The Caper plant growing among rocks – the cork tree in luxuriance – the English Oak – the horse chesnut – broom – magnificent mulbery trees of 35 years growth – umbrageous & green – beds of roses scenting the whole garden and climbing roses – The state of his orange trees too was inspiring – these he had cut off after the three years drought - and now they formed flourishing symmetrical cones 16 ft high covered with young fruit – Mr McA. says that all fruit trees do well after being cut in this way, save apple trees – The vines were trellised in a new way learnt from the Greek Pirates lately sent out – this was by twisting the vine round the sticks by which he said they produced more fruit – [draws an illustration of this] . The soil seemed a good stiff clay but he said it was not very good – It is singular that strawberries cannot be made to bear in that garden – In all that well worked extensive garden only three men are employed Mr McArthur could only account for so much done by them, by saying that he got what he wanted from the garden & the little he wanted to give away – and that no enquiry was made about what became of the remainder –
Mr. McA led me to a very beautiful spot on the Paramatta River which he had offered to the arch deacon for a school, he also showed me the fine level approach which might be made through his grounds to Paramatta – being rather interested in carrying the improvement into effect, which I certainly think would be one of great importance to Paramatta –
Friday 25th Nov.
Rose at ½ p 5 – found Mr Mc A & his son Mr. James in the drawing room looking at some very fine wool – We had breakfast with the regularity of clockwork – and Mr James Macarthur accompanied me through Paramatta and some way on the road, called on Mr. Dunlop – and saw him at Mr Walkers – he advised

[Page 4]
me to try the rate of the chronometer by observations whenever halted - &c – & he said respecting Lunars that he always worked the observations and did not trust to tables – I bought some tobacco pipes for the natives – The morning had been raining – a thunder shower – abt ½ p – 6 – but the day turned out very fine - [indecipherable] Mr McArthur [indecipherable] the way talked of poetry – and – he rehearsed some very beautiful lines addressed to the fringed violet - & promised to let me have them – reached Wiseman’s Inn on the Hawkesbury at 7 o clock –

Saturday 26th Novr.
Mr. Simpson called me early and accompanied me, as did also his son, as far as Mr Mannings where we had grilled fowl and a feed for our horses – Mr Simpson informed me that in the later end of 1823 or beginning of 1824 – six men set off from Wellington Valley to the Nth with spades & many implements for a settlement – one of these was Brett a blacksmith from Birmingham, also there was N Sawyer and a carpenter & brickmaker – Mr Smith recommended me not to let the men eat in presence of natives as this had a tendancy to make them irritable – Also he gave me a remedy for snake bite – viz . cupping with wine – glass by burning a paper dipt in rum – He requested me to ask them in a whisper for Goyne & Noyar – (the natives ) as these were their names for Topaz & Ruby [indecipherable] Mr. Simpson also sent with me an assigned surgeon named Suttor – a great accommodation on Mr. Simpsons part – reached young Wiseman’s in the evening after dark –

Sunday 27 Novr
Mr. Finch called early & breakfasted – he begged me to allow him to come to me at Liverpool Plains that he might afterwards take back the dispatches – and to this I consented - on my way towards Mr. Blaxland’s met Mr White (at Dulhunty’s) and we proceeded forwards together - Down the Wollombi – and reached Mr. Blaxlands just as it got quite dark – The two young Mr Blaxlands accompanied – dated us very comfortably – Mr. B. informed me that some years ago the people of some Dutch settlement ( [indecipherable] or some such name) murdered their Governor and went off nobody knew where – the conjections that these were some of the men seen by Barber seem a little more probable.
Monday 28 Novr. a warm morning – We started about nine and rode all day – Mr. White did not readily find the way – and we only got to Dr. Bowmans abt ½ an hour before sunset -
[insertion from the opposite page]
Here my people had not come but remained at Glennis some miles dist! I accordingly sent for my cart & tent which arrived about ½ p. 8 – Mr. White who stays at Ravensworth Dr. Bowman’s property, very kindly called and was very attentive allowing me his paddocks for the cattle – sending me with vegetables &c –

Tuesday 29 Novr.
the whole equipment came up at ½ past nine – I wrote letters to Mrs. M . Coll C. & Mr Thomson also a note to Mr. Nicholson abt. a bullock driver who was uncivil to the party at Paramatta – sent Baigrie off at 4 o ck to get a horse from Mr White to go by steam to Sydney - Sent back one of Mr Richards men – and agreed to take two of Mr Whites thus making the whole party with Sutter who came in today – to consist of 17 persons ) – Mr Dixon also called, and in the evening gave me some account of Liverpool Plains – this day was very hot – Thermot. 100 ° in the shade – after a thundershower it fell to 88 ° - Asst Surgeon White went home this morning to say farewell

Wednesday 30 Novr.
– Barm. 29 ° 700 - [indecipherable] – The whole party moved off from the encampment at ½ past 7 – in good order - Just as we were moving off Mr White (of Ravensworth) servant came to me with some mutton chops and milk, - Asst. Surveyor White overtook me soon afterwards on the road – he had obtained as much flour, tobacco and tea & sugar as made up our provisions to five months, at 1 o’clock Encamped on a small water course about 1 ½ miles beyond the dividing ridge which the road crosses before coming to Judge Forbes land – Thermr. at 4 pm 95 ° - This evening discovered that Charles Evans who had charge of the ammunition and most other things (from his having been able to write) had placed in the same case a number of eggs – tobacco pipes, tinder-boxes, arsenical soap - & some [indecipherable] put up parcels of powder & shot in – this disorderly sort of work induced me to weigh the shot – when I found that a bag of buck shot which ought to have contained 30 lbs. only weighted 2/- I determined to examine every thing in his charge tomorrow – This being St Andrews day – I did treat Mr. White with a glass of mountain dew in honour of the saint who was not only the guardian saint of Scotland – but under whose auspices we had commenced this expedition - Evening cool & pleasant – no musquitoes – The surrounding country on fire made me cautious abt the ammn.

Thursday 1st Dec
Barm 29.133 – Thr. attd. 81. Do. Dd 82 ° - Movd off at ½ p 6. the sky became gradually overcast – so as to shut out the sun

[Page 5]
whose absence was not at all regretted by men or bullocks – we encountered some bad [indecipherable] on watercourses – especially on Muscle Creek – but the cattle drew very well. At 11 we reached St. Heliers where I left a note for Mr. Scott the agent who was not at the house – We looked over the rooms – which were shewn us by a female servant – once in Mr. Perry’s service – we had also some milk bread & cheese. Soon after leaving St. Heliers it began to rain, with thunder which continued till we reached the Hunter about ½ past 1 – which river we crossed and encamped on the Right bank - The day having cleared up about the time we reached the ground, - The ascent from the river (on the right bank is very steep – In fact all these roads in this district are very bad from the steep banks of the streams they cross – and in no part of the colony – would the value of a good road – properly laid down be more apparent than in this rich & extensive valley of the Hunter – I proceeded to the river while the men were pitching the tents – and had a most delicious bath in a clear and deep gravelly reach – in which I left as alluvial deposit the dust of the roads from Sydney hither – A high and refreshing wind arose in the afternoon. Thermt. 84 and where the heat of the previous day appeared to fatigue men & animals – none seemed in the least tired after this days journey – N.B. met Mr. Scott some miles beyond St. Heliers - This afternoon I directed Mr. White to examine all the articles in charge of Evans – Little more was missing – he had distributed some of the fish hooks – and of two buckets one was wanting - this he had lent to some woman on the road – Mr Sempill having called I determined on leaving Evans behind especially as it was evident he was too [indecipherable] amongst the other men – I therefore handed him over to Mr Sempill who gave me in his stead a man who could shoe horses – I giving Mr. Sempill a written authority to employ Evans as an assigned man until the pleasure of His Excy. The Governor should be known –

Friday 2d. Decr.
Moved off at 7 o’clk. – The whole party 6 now consisted of fifteen persons leaders Mr. White & myself – vizt. ammunition

- 1 Alexr. Burnett – Carpenter arms – 8 Muskets
X 2 Anthony Browne Servant & Groom 6 Pistols –
-3 Timothy Cussac – Stockman Private Do 4 Pistols
X 4 William West – Surveyors man – 2 Rifles
Robert [indecipherable] – Carpenter –
X 5 Willm. Worthington - Surveyors man – 2 Double B guns
X 6 John Palmer – Sailmaker – 1 Sabre
X 7 Thos Jones – Sailor – 1 Cutless
X 8 Rick Jones – Surveyors Man –
X 9 Henry Dawkins – Mr. Whites – Trail Keeper (T.L)
X10 – James Forchon – Bullock Driver
X11 Wm Morehead Do.—
X12 Danl. Delany – Do
X13 James Souter – Surgeon
X14 Stephen Bombelli – blacksmith
15 [indecipherable]
[from opposite page]
Self
Finch
Carptr
Wood
Whiting
Sailmaker
Richd Jones
Tom Jones

Whiting
Brown
Worthington
[indecipherable]
Wood
Dawkins
[indecipherable]
[indecipherable]
21st Jany –

6 muskets
[indecipherable] Burnett
Anthy Brown
Wm Wood
Wm Worthington
Robt Whiting
Richd. Jones
Wm Morehead
James Sonter

assorted soap & brushes & [indecipherable]
Rum –
Flannel
Rice currants
Shot
Fish hooks & lines
Ammun – 2 Cartweel BoXes
1 Rifle
1 Double Barrel
One months Provns [indecipherable] weeks
Biscuit
Preserved [indecipherable]
Pills
Coffee
Castor oil
Thermtr.

[Page 6]
We soon reached the farm of one Hugh Cameron, an old man from Stirlingshire, whom I had assisted in the selection of his land some years ago – he was busy with his harvest – but left his wheat stack on seeing me and came running to us cordially welcoming me to his dwelling – a truer picture of a Scottish farmer could not be – a real Scotch bonnet covered the brow of a face which I should have known to be Scotch in any part of the world – he immediately produced new milk – water from the running burnie close by – grain for our horses – and a bottle of the mountain dew from a still which he said was "no far off" – This old man was very deaf and the hearty squeeze – and silent look & shake of the head amply rewarded me for securing to him from amongst several other more cunning applicants, a really good piece of land – this vigorous old man – having buried his wife in Scotland & left a numerous grown up family behind him there was now – with one man beginning to reap the fruits of his persevering industry by a well filled stockyard – and fields waving yellow with grain – and I had the satisfaction to learn from him that his family would soon join him in the country – Before parting he asked me if I had five minutes to spare when he put into my hands the copy of a long memd. to the Governor which he took from among the leaves of a very old folio volume of Pitscottie's History of Scotland – this [indecipherable] prayed that whereas Scone was in the valley of Strathean, and that the pillow of Jacob which had been kept there as the coronation stone of the Kings of Scotland was fated still to be where their dominion ended – and that this valley of the Kingdom Ponds had yet no general name - that it might be named Strathean more especially as the late Rt. Honble. Secretary of State Sir George Murray was a native of Strathdean – Mr. Cameron also informed me of his wish to name his own place Glendwin – finally we were forced although it was only 10 AM to drink a stirrup cup at the door when he most heartily drank success to my expedition with true highland hospitality & sincerity – and I went on my way rejoicing that the last hand I was likely to shake for some time was that of a warm hearted honest countryman of my own – X

X [insertion from opposite page] "would that this beautiful Strath were peopled with such inhabitants! those [indecipherable] might not numbers of industrious migrants from the land of the Cameron be here - where man even in the decline of life could enjoy contentment "beside a wee burn" – even although without "a wee wifie" and far distant from his family & native land"

at 3 oclock we reached a favorable place for encamping, about 3 miles beyond a sheep station of Mr. Dangars – the Kingdom brook forming a beautiful transparent pool deep enough for bathing – the burning hill of Wingen was still distant about 4 miles – On the way I was overtaken by a soldier of the mounted Police who brought me a letter from Capt. Forbes dated 27th ult: 10 PM informing me that Coll Lindesay had thought it of such importance

[Page 7]
to send me the news by express that Barber had sawed off his irons and had escaped from the prison where he was confined at Bathurst – I received the letter in the evening – The carpenter shot two ducks this afternoon –

Saturday 3d Decr.
Moved off at 7o’ck Crossed several deep gullies from the neighbourhood of the Burning Hill, but the road continued well marked – at length we began to ascend by a tongue which connects the hills of Wingen with Merryland and the Liverpool range – X

X [insertion from opposite page] "The ground on this hill, and especially about the road was strewed with fallen timber evidently the effects of some late storm – as branches with the leaves still on them – apparently from the tops of trees – lay in all directions"

on reaching the summit we looked over on Wingen but little smoke arose from it. – The ground is favourable for a good road across this range – beyond which we come on the upper part of Pages River – which waters a valley of considerable extent where the road reaches it - & containing good soil – There is a grant of Mr. Whalans here – The cattle were much fatigued with the ascent of the range, which was long & steep in places – the heat also fatigued the men – I therefore encamped on reaching Pages River at 4 o’clock – Thermt. at sunset 80 ° - In the valley the extremities from the mountains – are of long & gradual declivity with good grass – The grass in the valley at this time was much eaten up by sheep -
Two babbling brooks water the flat at this part – one being called the river Page - or Macqueens’ river – the other the creeck – The space between them is flat – and apparently alluvial soil of excellent quality –

Sunday 4 Decr
Moved off at ½ past seven – and reached by 11 o’clock a remarkable rock where the track leaves the rivulet to cross the range – to Liverpool Plains – the distance we came was about 6 miles; this Rock was the point which I wished to gain yesterday having been informed that it is within two miles of the different part of the range to be crossed – and as the cattle were fatigued and the day Sunday – I proceeded no further – on riding a little further I fell in with a tribe of blacks from Pewen Bewen on Dart Brook – some of whom afterwards visited our tents – X

X [insertion from opposite page] "a chief named Winroterdi &c; "

The whole of this valley is good land and there appears to be excellent sheep pasturage on the surrounding mountains – We have still Mt Merrylaw in view making a circuit of it – so that from the form it took we knew when it was in a line between us and the Burning Hill of Wingen – Yesterday on counting up all our stores we found we had 130 days rations of flour & other articles – This morning the carpenter shot two ducks –

[Page 8]
In the afternoon I delivered to each of 14 men, one of the 8 firelocks & siX pistols also a great coat to each - A native from the Liverpool Plains came to the tents – I gave him a pipe & he offered to shew me the best road across them – he belonged to the Never never tribe – as it is termed by Stockmen – he assured me that there was a large river in the district I was going – this day was very hot – thermr 84 at Sunset – Adjusted the Sextant in the evening – Wrote this day a letter to Sir George Murray

Monday 5th Decr.
Set off at 7 o’clock – and we soon reached the pass across the Liverpool range about which we had heard such exaggerated accounts – some even saying that our drays would perhaps be broken [indecipherable] taking them over empty – We, however, by deviating a little from the beaten track – managed to take up the loaded drays – by putting 13 bullocks to each – the pass is a very low neck of the range and is named by the natives Hecknaduey – the creek or watercourse we meet on entering the plains is called Nuzabella – Murillla and not Merryland is the native name of the land NW of Wingen fixed in the Trigonometry survey – at ½ past 10 we had everything up and were on our way towards the Plains, when the axle of one of the drays broke – and we were obliged to leave the dray – and place the load on the spare pack horses & then of the dray which would pack – We reached at 4 o’clock a creek called by the natives Currangai about three miles from the pass. There we encamped – we found here a tribe of natives from the side of Dart Brook – the same we had yesterday met with –

Thursday 6th Decr.
Four soldiers of the mounted Police brought in a letter from Captn Forbes – (witht. date ) informing me that the Governor had arrived that day, and that Barber had been taken at Wingen 15 miles from Bathurst – the day after he had made is escape – We left the ground at 7 o clock – following still, (guided by the natives the east track – and crossing a low ridge of rich earth in which were embedded nodules of Limestone of the high range on our left – we reached an arm of the plains – which the road crossed in a direction S. of West – this being very different from the direction in which Peel’s river or Walldoo lay – I left the road without minding the natives, and took a Northerly course. we came soon on a path and line of marked trees which a native, whom I had agreed with to go with me to Wulldoo, said was a road from Palmers’ to Loder’s Stn.
We reached a deep dry bed of what must be a very considerable stream in wet seasons – after considerable riding up and down

[Page 09]
Wed.y 7 Dcr.
[ from the opposite page] "altitude obs ° [a calculation]"

We found some ponds – and crossed the bed of the stream (which may be called the Nuzabella) with the drays &c – to encamp at a shady spot clear of long grass – The day was exceptionally hot 96 ° in the shade and the bullocks were much fatigued – we encamped about 3 o ck – at sunset the thermt. was at 90 ° and during the first part of the night the heat continued – The spot chosen for the camp was free from long grass from having been burnt or [indecipherable] time before – in other parts the grass was up to the horses eyes – and in this dry season, when it is so frequently set on fire by the blacks and might have been ourselves in cooking – I found it a subject requiring some attention – especially as we had no such gunpowder – This I had all placed in the light cart carrying my tent &c – which stood always close to my tent in the most isolated clear spot to be found. – Just as it became twilight I enquired as usual if the horses had been all tethered or hobbled when I was informed that seven had set off (!)– and that one of the men (Worthington) who was after them had not then returned – this was the more annoying as I then only learnt that Mr. White’s horse, a notorious runaway, had been left untied & [indecipherable] for the last three nights – chiefly because mine had been as mine being a quiet horse which always accompanies any other - and no doubt readily joined Mr Whites –
This was a most vexing piece of intelligence, but as the weather had been oppressively hot during the whole journey – I determined then on [indecipherable] next day without however making my intention known then – I promised the black – a clasp knife if he would find them – and went to sleep – after ordering all the good [indecipherable] hands to be off in search at daybreak. Carpenter shot 2 ducks

Wednesday 7. Decr.
Very hot – at ¼ past 8 the horses were brought into the camp by Mr Worthington who had traced them up this valley to 2 miles above our former encampment – He also found a good road from that spot – which was but 7 miles from here along the valley – so much for following the blacks or rather suffering the men to talk to them about stations for they were leading us to the nearest station alltho that happened to be quite out of my way – This valley is composed of a deep mass of alluvial or diluvial soil – how placed

[Page 10]
here is the question – at this encampment the bed of the river is full 18 or 20 feet below the level surface of the flat and the whole section shews the same rich earth - with the exception of a stratum of a strong gravel similar to the bed of the water course which appears to [indecipherable] under this soil – Most of the stones are of the trap family – and the presence of this rock being the criterion of good soil in NS. Wales – the rich top soil of this & other plains may be considered as the mere products of surrounding mountains – by their decomposition through all time past – Occupied most of the day in checking [indecipherable] observations at equal altitudes to ascertain the apparent time – by which it appeared that the chronometer was set rather to apparent time at Sydney than mentioned – Tried also the latitude by Spherics – but the result was not satisfactory – The day was very hot but – a thunder cloud and some rain in the evening afforded a little relief – the night was a dead calm and very close, with musquitoes. –

Thursday 8th Decr.
Set off of ½ p. 7 – Found a road about half a mile E. of the camp which continued to Loder’s station about six miles in a very direct line bearing 335 ° throughout – at that station a creek appeared before us – called Cuirvarinda by the natives, its course below the station bore 325 ° - I here agreed with a native named Jemmy to be shewn the best way to Waldoo (Peels River) on condition that he should have a Tomahawk when we got there – We had to cross the creek which was very steep in its banks there – and soon after (at about a miles distance) another creek – which though smaller, had a soft muddy bottom – half baked but soft below – one of the wheels of the first dray stuck fast – and we had to dig before the other wheel to bring the dray into such a position as enabled the bullocks to draw it out, a- at length we crossed this and fortunately found no more for about six miles – keeping a very good direction – we then had to cross two more which joined just below – in neither of these was there any water, and it being now half past 4 I wished to encamp – The natives found a green mantling pool in the bed of the river and by making a hole in the adjacent sand obtained some very clear and cool –

[he continues here onto the opposite page] "The evening was rather refreshing and cool – and the sun set clear The whole of the way today lay across good soil – with the hills on our left – and the dry creeks we had to pass took each somewhat of the N.W. direction and had evidently overflown their banks – The curious ploughed appearance occurred in several places – and one remarkable opinion worth attention a little south of Loder’s station - shewing clearly the meeting of these ridges so as to lead to a general channel and evident proof of their formation by the reception of a flood of waters – at 31m p 10 – observ alt of Alcyene = one of the Pleiades = 70 °. 6’. 20" - [indecipherable] 7 ° 30’ – The time was that both of the Chronometer & of my watch set to the apparent time of the encampment of 7th inst."

[Page 11]
Friday 9th Decr.
Got up before 5 and all was soon ready but the barometer which had hitherto told beautifully got out of order from there being two ivory screws at the lower tube – so that by screwing one tight to keep in the mercury – the outer wing screw became loose and lost its hold of the sextern the consequence was that in screwing up the mercury it escaped at the wing screw, & and did not rise to the top as required although the lower screw was screwed home – I took all the mercury out in hopes of being able to repair it in the afternoon – We moved off at ½ past seven – The line we followed was very straight across gentle undulating and a little West of North for 8 miles
– The country was still smoking on both sides, having been all on fire the previous evening – Several sharp pointed trap hills appeared on both ridges – at 7 ½ miles we saw a fine open flat or valley on our left with a numerous herd of cattle – and at 8 ¼ we came to a creek with plenty of water – the only difficult one for the drays we had this day met
– The black and I killed a large black snake in the water – when he at first cast a stone at it – it ran at him and he running off – I cut it in two with my sabre he cautioned me on first seeing it saying it would soon kill my horse – The country was pretty open and level beyond the creek – we travelled in one direction for about 8 miles when we reached a piece of open Plain. On the further skirts of which in just entering the wood we found a creek with plenty of water - & the marks of former encampments – I remarked how well the blacks knew how to obtain a cool & of clean drink – they first scratched a hole in the soft sand beside the pool – which served as a filter the water remarkably rising in it – and then to obtain it free from sand, they first threw in some brushes of grass and then applied their mouths to it – I did so too – and never in my life relished

[Page 12]
any beveridge more – The day had been very sultry and the whole of the last 8 miles had been without water – This plain is named Carabubula, from a high hill just above it on the North – The whole of the line travelled by the gardian of the blacks from Loders station may be made an excellent road from Sydney to Peels river – I marked the trees from Loder’s station to which place – the cart road is plain from the pass of Liverpool Range, - Ascertained the index error of the sextant to be 90" - , Could not find the star Aleyene in the Nautical Almanac – Endeavored in vain to repair the barometer – The evening was sultry and calm – especially about 10 PM – The country was on fire all round us – and had been so on both sides of the road as we came, indeed during the last three days – the country had been on fire just a days journey ahead of us – so that we suffered no inconvenience although I should have been very unwilling to go near the burning grass having so much gunpowder with me – A very heavy thunderstorm came on during the night

Saturday 10 Decr
– The morning was cloudy – we moved off at ¼ to 8 – it soon came on to rain again – which effectually checked the fire & seemed really a providential thing for us – as we passed the trees lay smoking still – we crossed several stiff [indecipherable] – which occupied each some time to get the drays across – at length we got on a neck of the range which seemed the division of the waters - & the natives told me we had no more creeks in – so it turned out the country on the other side having a quite different character – a gently sloping extremity continued for 8 miles in the very direction in which I wished to make Peel’s river – at 3 o ck we encamped at some waterholes where the slope terminated in an extensive forest flat – It rained nearly the whole day – The grass on this side was good – The whole of the timber nearby box

[opposite page – sketch of a tree]

[Page 13]
Saturday 11th Decr.
– The clouds cleared off about 6 and we started at ½ past 7. – The whole of this days’ journey was down a continued slope uninterrupted by any watercourse – for 13 miles – when we reached Wallamoul – Mr Brown’s station on the River Peel The tract we had crossed was uniformly good soil – thinly wooded – and was the most extensive tract of uniformly good soil I had seen in the colony – We found a very intelligent overseer at Mr Brown’s station who gave the whole party plenty of milk – Mr B has about 1600 hd of cattle here – The river was low – so that Mr White and I crossed it easily – along a tree which the flood had laid across it – There was however a good current, - a few hooks and lines were given out to the men – and three fine fish were caught by sunset – I understood that the spot where Mr Oxley crossed was about two miles lower down – I gave to Jemmy our excellent native guide the promised tomahawk and a knife to Monday his brother – The overseer brought me a native named Mr Brown in the evening who spoke of the district I wished to go as practicable for drays – ( or wheelbarrows as he called them – Started the flour from the casks into bags – In the evening took a lunar – between the moon and a. Arietis – also the meridian Alt. of this star – which gave the latitude 31 ° 2’.57" – Long 21 –

Monday 12 Decr.
– This morning a cod weighing upwards of 18 lbs was caught -Observed several equal altitudes stopped to rest the bullocks - The result of which was that this station on the Peel ( Wallamoul is 21 [indecipherable] West of Sydney – Mr. Finch came in at 5 oclock – Left with the Overseer here – a Barometer – 6 flour casks - & 2 meat casks – I Cart [indecipherable] breeching & collar – 6 irons – pins for dray – 1 drag chain – 1 Telescope in case –

[on the opposite page]
Peels’ River

Quarrame – Tree
Carrar – Grass
Yerry – Beard
Marra – Hand
Kanga – Head
Tirrira – Feet
Ullo – Nails of both
Nammo – Nipple
Gniy – mouth
Mil – Eyes
Binna – Ear
Murro – Nose
Wallar – shoulder
Paggor – Back
Parrone – Knee
Eurro – Sky
Morra – Sun
Kille – Moon
Crlle – Water
Erramarr – Horse
Myeye – Dog
Uluguer – band round the hd.
Bor – girdle of wool
Warruey – tail behind
Tilliberra –
Bendar opossum Clk
Sydney – Moober – Tattooing
Yarramandy – To walk
Parree – To jump
Kindamindai – To laugh
Baen Mirga – To cry
Daldey – To eat
Calingaroguey – To drink
Babee – To sleep
Eera – Teeth
Talley - Tongue

[Page 14]
Cow – small fly
Yarry – chin
Coobey – To swim
Towun – Earth
Marra, Thumb & fingers
Ooroga – Calf
Cunna – Belly
Cabba – Hill
Cullur – Stone
Einar – A gin
Toobradyur – a boy
Pallolar – a Man
Narrie – To sit
Warrey – To stand
Buar – The beads made of reeds rd. the neck
Cunne – a tick or staff
Tolo – a spear
Bommai – a Boomerang
Queer – a Fish
Bandar – a Kangaroo
Oorowengoar - Birds
Carranguey – Duck
Yarrainda – Rain
Dooloommy me – Thunder
Poomoand-ai, - Lightning
Toora – Natives huts
We – Fire
Cooy – Opossum

[opposite page]
Mal – 1
Bular – 2
Caleba 3
Burrul – 4
Murrobolley – 5
Mal Kangabula – 6
Bular Kangabula – 7
Culeba Kangabula – 8
Burril Kangabula – 9
Tapirra – 2 hands 10
Merreboley burrul – 40

Bar – or wargu – about
Kai ganyul
Gnurree – Kalakala – night
Myal – The weeping gum
Coona – to ease himself
Gooniar – The charmed stones
Warrul – The small bee fly which makes the honey in trees
Mangorry – a hard seated sleepy Lizard
Bonoonor – an Owl

[Page 15]
Tuesday 13th December

- Sent Mr Finch with his two men back to the Hunters River district – with directions to procure as much flour, tea & sugar – as he could pack on six bullocks – and to come up with it after me on my line as soon as possible – Requested him to take on the telescope also – and I gave him an official note to Mr DiXon – in which I instructed that officer to afford him any article which could possibly be spared from his equipment without interrupting the service he was upon – Gave the overseer at Wallamoul a hook & line – moved off, (accompanied by a black named Mr Brown and his gin) at a little before eight – as he pointed (at the camp to the direction he proposed for the best passage for the bullocks – and which was according to my plan of not crossing Peels’ River – but just parallel to it, I was guided by him entirely on this days journey – the way we went was as favorable as could be for the passage of laden drays – being a succession of gentle slopes without any break or creek between
– We made the river at about 8 miles and from thence our course became West & even Southward of West – Not withstanding this however we encamped on the river – after a journey of 15 miles – half at least of which was in a Westerly course – from Wallamoul – although the Peel is shewn both in Oxley’s & Cunningham’s charts to run about North – My present plan is to keep along the firm ground West of this river until I arrive at the junction of Wilmot Horton’s vale creek ( of Cunningham’s map) – then to cross, & proceed at least 60 miles or as far as may be necessary to discover a river such as I hope to find in a Northerly – or N. Westerly direction – This part of my progress across the country West of the Peel

[continued on the opposite page]
has been extremely passable and the ground much better than I expected – We having crossed, certainly some flats evidently subject to floods – but no creeks – save one at all impeding the drays – This creek was about a mile from our encampment and is named by the natives -
It was quite dry, with steep banks – and bottom of gravel & sand – at one part of the bank of the Peel several whinstone dykes – parallel to each other cross out – forming an obtuse angle with the current of the river. the direction of these dykes is SSE NNW – The banks of the Peel as far as we have gone consist chiefly of extensive flats of good land – occasionally flooded – and thinly timbered – few parts are bare and where a rich bare spot occurs it is usually furrowed, as I have already described – There is a small open plain about a mile & half between the station at Wallamoul – and it was near the South side of this that Mr OXley encamped, and afterwards forded the river – On our way this morning we saw a fine herd of Kangaroo but although I hunted the dogs into the heart of them – such was the length of the grass that they could not see them – further on a mile I found two more which induced me to load my rifle – but we soon fell in with the cattle herds - & short burnt grass neither of which circumstances are favorable to finding Kangaroo – The morning was fresh & clear but

[Page 16]
the sky in the afternoon gathered to a storm with a strong gale of wind – Before sunset the evening became calm - & when we went to rest the night was beautiful

Wednesday 14th December
- The sun rose clear – we moved off at ½ past 7 – the native sent back his gin she having as he said miscarried from the fatigue of the preceding day – I blamed him for not telling me she was ill – as I had a Doctor with me – a few miles on, I shot a Kangaroo with my rifle – I only had seen the head in the long grass and she was shot through the neck which astonished the black very much [ drawing of head of kangaroo] – the way we were led by the black still continued Westerly – so that Mr Cunningham’s map was must be quite wrong respecting the Peel River – on the left bank of which we again encamped – at a beautiful spot called Perimbungay
– Two miles before we reached this part of the river we crossed some very remarkable rocky ridges which terminate somewhat boldly in the river – these consisted of a curious variety of rocks – and looked like the cropping out of strata or rather from the great indication a dyke – the direction of which was N.30 W – the dip being to the East at an angle of about 30 ° - with the horizon – these formed small oblong hills detached by little water courses – but in lines notwithstanding as I have often seen in [indecipherable] features of mountains – The highest rock in position (though lowest on the surface) was a curious conglomerate of angular fragments - & having some shells and the wormlike petrifaction common in the Argyle limestone – yet these shells were no longer calcareous – when tried with muriatic acid – Above there was blue trap rock, having in the interesting thin layers of magnesium Limestone – blue limestone alternated with these and on the top of the hill trap rock occurred in small nodules apparently with

[sketch on opposite page titled "From Perrinbungay Hill"

[Page 17]
with somewhat of Chrystaline shapes – red outside like porphyry when broken dark grey or black with an appearance of Ironstone, - We crossed this ridge with the drays and encamped – at the foot of a small hill on the river named Perimbungay as already stated. This hill consisted wholly of a trap rock with specks or veins of agate or chalcedony – fragments of which lay also detached about the hill – At this spot the river has an important appearance – a long deep reach, in which the natives could never dive to the bottom, extends in great breadth in several miles Eastward – the men were very successful in fishing – fish weighed upwards of 9 lbs each – and were very much in [indecipherable] & taste, like cod – I took a drawing of one – I had shot the Kangaroo in the morning chiefly for the native – but it appeared that he set no value on this which was always to be had – preferring flour of all things – and this being the article which of all others could least be spared, nevertheless it was necessary to give him about 2 ½ lbs daily – and this afternoon he came to me pointing to his stomach – and saying he did not wish any more – The bank of the river at this place presents a section of at least 50 feet of alluvial soil – There being all along this river – more of less of a flat of this character between it and the hills – there are also marks of flood in general on the surface of these flats – which are nevertheless usually timbered with flooded gums – the immediate banks being set with that strong tree the river oak like most rivers in NS. Wales – On our way this day we also noticed for the first time the acacia Pendula – which is easily distinguishable by its foliage drooping

[Page 18]
Page A
like the weeping willow – and by its rough bark – and slender branches – the trunk never exceeding nine inches or a foot in Diameter – The wood of this graceful tree is scented and very hard – it appears to grow chiefly on flats – subject to occasional innundation – We also fell in with pines on this day’s journey – these alternating with the weeping acacia and occupying the drier parts –

Thursday 15th December
– In order to avoid the heat which distressed the bullocks much – I ordered the party to move off at sunrise – while the people were loading the animals I ascended the hill and sketched the range which lay in our line of route, (it was evident that we could not much longer avoid crossing the river – the general course of which had been nearly West from Wallamoul - ! How Mr. Oxley could have travelled parallel to this river in his route Eastward in 1818 without perceiving this especially as he crossed it two miles below Wallamoul, is very extraordinary – he represents it as having a Northerly course and it is equally strange that Mr Cunningham the botanist who since crossed that part of this river wh. we were now tracing in two parts calling it at one place – Mitchell’s River and in the other place [indecipherable] River while he names a river which he crossed (or at least saw) 60 miles further Northward, the Peel, on his map – This shews pretty clearly the absurdity of making maps from the [indecipherable] route followed by a traveller to the confusion of rivers – and the consequent misrepresentation of ranges – especially when both are distinguished by names which, however illustrious,

[continued on the opposite page]
are not sufficient to preserve or distinguish any such [indecipherable] or an unsurveyed country and, when mixed up in the chaos of such maps are at length forgotten or rejected for the true name given by the aboriginal inhabitants - the latter being a permanent one, because the same spot may be by their means identified for centuries –
At 4 ¼ miles from the encampment we reached Wallanburra a favorable place for crossing the Peel: As we approached the river two Emus appeared on the opp. side – the banks on both sides were low, and the bottom gravilly with considerable current - the water was up to about the axles of the drays – or about 2 feet – By half past seven o’clock – every thing was across the river – The country beyond was flat – and we passed through a Pine forest with the Acacia Pendula, and a gum tree with a small round leaf such as I had not before seen – At 6 miles we reached the border of an extensive open tract named Mullaba: this ground could not be called as usual in this country – a plain – although clear of timber – for it consists of gentle undulations, very much like the lay of ground between London and Hampstead – and what rendered it very unlike a new country – the diluvian ridges if I may so term them lay – along and across the slopes exactly like the fallow land – while trees grew in rows on different parts giving the appearance of enclosures – It would have been difficult to pursuade a person unacquainted with the surface of this singular country that these lands were not and never had been, cultivated – and certainly the soil well deserved cultivation consisting of a [indecipherable] black mould – so loose and deep- that it yawned in cracks from the absence of feet to tread it down - : these cracks did not present however any impediment to the horses or bullocks – and the grass having been very generally burnt a

[Page 19]
short time previously the drays proceeded without difficulty even over parts which in wet weather must have proved impassable – As we proceeded along this extensive tract of low country, a range of hills named Hardwicks’ Range by Mr Oxley lay on our left the general direction of which was about 20 ° to the Westward of North - : extending backwards or Southward beyond the river we had crossed to the Liverpool Range – and Northward as far as we could see – the Peel passes through it a little way below the ford of Wallanburra - and it was a low neck of the same range farther south. (that is between the river and the Liverpool Range) which we crossed at the spot called Turi the hill called Barragundy – being also one of the summits further Southward – It was probably the general direction of this chain, giving to the country East of it the appearance of a very extensive valley, to the North – that induced Mr Oxley to consider it the basin of the Peel and to suppose the course of that river to be therefore also Northward – The disn. of the streams from the great Coast chain is, however, traversed by this secondary range nearly at right angles – and, as – frequently occurs in trap ridges, which is the character of the latter – the hills extend in one general direction even across the beds of streams – Thus the Peel finds a channel through an interval of this chain – and the next opening to the Northward is still more remarkable – there being no river, but merely a continuation of the great Plains in the Eastward forming a gorge of dead flat between the hills where a very small dry water course originates, apparently the natural drainage for the extensive country to the Eastward but quite inadequate to that purpose.

[Page 20
]
While [indecipherable] a little isolated hill some way Eastward from the range seems to cover this outlet like the of a bastion – Thus these extensive tracts of deep rich earth either absorb the water, or are partially covered with it – and they are in consequence wholly without surface water – or inundated so as to be impassable – this appears to be the character of much of this fine country – and it is not improbable that it may be in the power of man to remedy the defect at least in a considerable degree – by cutting channels in the natural lines of drainage which would concentrate the waters for his use in times of drought, and keep the surface dry in wet seasons –

When we reached the dry water course we had travelled sixteen miles and were desirous to encamp – We followed the channel for about a mile & a half further without finding any water – when at length we came on a rocky part of its bed – with several pools more than sufficient for our wants – We had now got to the Western side of Hardwicks’ Range, and the camp being near the foot of a rocky summit of it named Ydair, I ascended this point in the evening accompanied by Mr White and the native, and I was gratified with a most extensive and satisfactory view of the country to the Westward – and although my eye could scarcely penetrate so far into the sublime obscurity of remote distance, under a bright setting sun – I was certain I beheld the Warranbangle range – The most conspicuous object in the landscape was a lofty flat topped – hill in the middle distance standing quite isolated on the Western boundary of a plain which extended to its base from the hill on which I stood – this hill the native named Boonalla – a singular peak a little to the Northward of it next attracted my attention – the name thereof he said was Taungutoa - and along the skirt of a curving line of intervening open plain ran as

[Page 21]
my guide informed me the "Cabon Namoy" – The whole of this scene was as accordant with the bushrangers story – that I no longer thought of going directly North but to proceed as the guide recommended to Taungulda – as the best way to the Kindur – of which he had heard mention if he had not seen for he described its breadth, to be much as Barber described it – Far to the South were just seen – the Northern limits of Liverpool Plains – and Northward & East the view was partly intercepted by other summits of the range I was then upon – X

[X inserted from the following page] "But the most satisfactory [indecipherable] what was most satisfactory to see in this general view of the country – was which I had was the idea it offered of the lay of the country – it was evident that the outlet opening which appeared towards Taungutoa was the outlet of the spacious basin which lay between me & Boonala extending southward and included including Liverpool Plains on the Southwest and that the ground towards Warrabangle was altogether higher – the fall being very decidedly towards the Northwest – I was more than ever inclined to think that the separation of the waters to the North & South of New Holland – lay to the left in the direction of Warrabangle Range a few low hills only lay to the Eastward of Targula and although I had hoped to have proceeded in a Northerly direction from the Valley of the Peel direction of this river having brought me thus far to the Westward the sight of Boonalla & Tangulda & the open appearance of the country determined me to follow the line by which Barber said he had reached the Kindur [indecipherable] N.E by N. from Tangulda –"

I had just time before the sun went down to sketch the hills – while Mr. White took the bearings of the principal summits the names of which were given us also by the black – We reached the tents which were about a mile & a half distant – just as it became dark. – The moon soon shone in a cloudless splendour, and we obtained a set of lunars – as well as the meridian altitude of Aldebaran – making the Latitude 30.52.35 – Longitude - We were particularly fortunate in the weather of this day :- during the whole of the morning we had been shaded from the scorching sun beams by a thick curtain of clouds which rising near sunset as I reached the summit Ydair remarked the beautiful view to the Westward – leaving finally the moon and stars in a serene sky –

Friday 16th December – Set off at half past five – the way was one direct line about - along a perfectly level surface wooded rather thickly with a broad leaved gum and the Acacia Pendula [2]
[ insertion from following page] "(2) A most agreeable change in the temperature rendered this days journey comparatively easy to the cattle, hitherto the heat had been excessive even at sunrise, but the air was sharp this morning. & a sweet refreshing breeze met us in the face during the whole journey the thermetr. being only"

At 10 ¼ miles we reached a corner of open plain – and at 15 miles we made the bank of the River Namoy – where I encamped at ½ past 11 A.M. In the course of the afternoon I measured the breadth depth & current of the river at this point also the average height of the surface of the [indecipherable] on its bank above the surface of the water – these I found to be as follows, Breadth of stream 100 feet – depth 11 1/3 feet current ½ a mile per hour & height of banks 37 feet

[Top of following page - table not transcribed]

[Page 22]
our fishermen immediately got ready their tackle – but we only caught two during the day – these were similar (with the exception of a few points less on the dorsal fin ) to those caught at Perimbungay –
The evening sky was rather hazy, however I got three altitudes of Sirius – for the purpose of trying the chronometer – Long 1"7’.15" W of Sydney

Saturday 17th Decr.

Set off at ¼ past six, continuing for about 2 miles – along the River bank – the stream appearing deeper & broader than at last Encampment – at about 8 miles we came on a narrow branch from the river – which we went round – and at 13 miles we reached Stockyard, which the native said had belonged to Geo. Barber – there were also the remains of a house – and the gunyas of a numerous encampment of natives – many bones of bullocks & through the trees I perceived the pointed pic seen from Ydair which the native said was "Tarrungalda" – I encamped near this stockyard on a reach of water as broad & deep as the main river – but without any current, it was apparently an old channel of the Nammoy the course of which was some way to the Westward – In this water we caught some small fish – two of them being of a singular kind, but no codfish I made a drawing of one - In the afternoon The pic of Tarungulda – lay due North of the camp about two miles and in the afternoon I set out on foot to ascend it – accompanied by W. White and the carpenter – This remarkable pic overlooks towards the Nammoy on the West a level country – and as I approached it, its bold rocks, relieved by a descending soon tempted me to take a sketch from the plain at its base – although anxious to examine from its summit – the country described by Barber - This

[from following page] "Tangulda – wholly of the rock I take is C[indecipherable] Felspar –
½ before 6 – reached 1st range at 11 miles – N33.10E
Barbers 1st range – a calcareous breccin with Water worn pebbles embedded
Scrub on the Eastern slopes"

[Page 23]
This summit we reached a little after 4 o’clock, and although the atmosphere was smokey – I had a most satisfactory view of the country – I saw the Nammoy’s course – through a cluster of hills to the North West to more level country, the horizon of which was invisible through the smoke,; the peak on which I stood appeared connected with the hills – and range to the North East – which threw out branches terminating in hills higher than the range itself and which diverging towards the Nammoy on the West – formed heads overlooking the bed of that river as far Northward as I could distinguish the direction of its course – the furthest of these heads visible being called - - But the most interesting part of the horizon then around me lay in the direction NE. by N – which was Barbers alleged route to the Kindur - for precisely in that direction lay the lowest neck of the range which was low and the intervening country was level – or gently undulating – Hills some of them bold & remarkable lay on both sides and amongst them this was the lowest part of the horizon – The smoky air (occasioned by the blacks burning the grass). Prevented me from seeing, save very indistinctly, the hills Southwards towards Liverpool Plains – I however got angles on most of those hills I had observed from Ydair. The shape and lay of all the hills to the Westward of the Nammoy as far as I could see convinced me that this river had a divided course to the North West – and that this could well change even to a more Westerly course -

[Page 24]
Having seen recent foot marks of natives who did not however approach us I in this evening made such arrangements respecting the arms watches & as I thought necessary for our safety in case of any surprise – or even in the event of a visit from any party of natives – Sat up till after 12 o’clock awaiting the appearance of the star a Gemini – for the purpose of taking a lunar distance, Long 1 ° 20’ 45" W of Sydney Lat 30 ° 25’ – S.

Sunday 18th December

– Left the encampment at ¼ before six and proceeded by compass N.E. by N – the ground was in general so favourable that very little deviation was necessary from the straight line – and by 10 o’clock we were on the summit of what I considered at this time to be Barbers first range – X

[X insertion from opposite page] " The Rock a calcerous breccin with waterworn pebbles"

- we had also got up by precisely the lowest part without a single stop for the drays - : the descent on the other side was a favourable – half way down the dogs killed a female Kangaroo – descending the country for 2 miles was more open – the wood iron-bark only – at 15 miles we were stopped by a thick scrub of forest or swamp Oak – and after tracing its borders – Westward for about ½ a mile, we saw another way of overcoming the difficulty than by cutting through it – I led the way through the parts where fewest trees were opposed – and on opening a way for a mile & a half we had the good fortune to reach the open wood – at a mile & a half further making 18 miles journey. I halted the party on a dry watercourse we having taken the precaution to bring 11 gallons of water with us so that the men had a drink after cutting through the scrub – the heat being excessive with a hot wind – I rode on with Mr White & the native and soon reached an extensive valley beyond which lay , right across my way, a majestic range of mountains – I could not but admire the noble outline, but how to pass them was the question – at four & ½ miles from the camp we reached the stream of the valley and our parched lips saluted its copious chrystal waters with a much keener relish than any artificial Beveridge ever excited on the pampered palate of the epicure –

[opposite page – sketch] "grilled snake 19 Decr. on an old woman’s fire on Barbers creek"

[Page 25]
Imprinted on the sand however, the native beheld, with some apprehension the fresh marks of human feet - ! but we were well armed having myself a rifle, a pair of pistols & a sabre – Mr White, a rifle & pistols – The rough marks of the stone hatchet on the trees and their remaining concealed indicated that the tribe now in this valley had little intercourse with the settlements – On our return we received the agreeable intelligence that water had been found in a deep hole only six chains from our tents - it was very good but there was scarcely enough for the bullocks – which , were consequently restless & disposed to ramble during the night – so that two men, whom I had placed on them in consequence found it difficult to keep them together – this suggested to me the idea of keeping them every night henceforward within a temporary stockyard of ropes – tied between trees –

Monday 19th December

– Left the ground at 6 o’clock – at ½ past 7 reached the creek (which I named Maule’s creek) and there I halted the party – and leaving the camp in charge of Mr. White I proceeded to examine the mountains beyond – As we ascended an extremity the native discovered a dog and on following it to a little brook – we came upon a fire with a large snake roasting on it, a wooden water cup: laying beside it – with that quickness for which these children of nature are so remarkable – he perceived that the fugitives were females and not far off he found a bag – evidently thrown down in sudden flight – but although he called, saying everything encouraging and traced them through the long grass far up into a rocky glen, none appeared – we placed the grilled snake (which had otherwise been burnt) in the wooden vessel – and folded up a head band ( ) which had also been dropped, within it – and proceeded – up the mountains – These consisted of

[Page 26]
a different sort of rock from any I had seen in the colony – The structure of the hills being also different – the rock was conglomerate of water-worn stones about the size & form of potalvey - the matriX was of a reddish colour and the embedded stones seemed much of the same kind character – the masses of rock had also a dark ferrigenous appearance and broke abruptly into bold terraces on the pointed and sides of the lateral ridges – not however in broken crags presenting sections of the rock like sandstone but in naked rounded off masses – like the upper parts of granite – the whole seemed to belong to the trap or Volcanic order of rocks – and all the stones in the bed of the rivulet ( river) partook of this character – some being cellular like lava – and great proportion trap -
We gained after climbing for about 1 ½ miles – a high summit from whence I hoped to have seen the country beyond – or ranges descending towards it – but I was much disappointed – for higher & more difficult mountains lay beyond as far as we could see East North – and even West – while the only connecting link between the summit I had gained and those further Northward was a very remarkable naked rock presenting a perpendicular ridge about 900 feet high, - On descending we came suddenly on an old woman – who seemed terrified at our approach – I kept back and directed the native to speak to her – and she soon appeared to answer all his queries – pointing directly to where the Kindur (as we understood) was to be reached and round to a ravine – the Eastward as the line followed by Barber – on my making the guide question her – she said the way was good for horses only – the native however in answer to further queries I proposed, said that she had promised to send

[Page 27]
two young boys at sunset to our tents – who could inform us better – This old woman was a more degrading picture of human misery than could possibly be imagined – or conceived by civilized beings, - One eye above seemed to see through the dimness of age, her shrivelled limbs of the colour of earth with groping after the horrible reptiles – on which she fed, more resembled those of quadrupeds X

X[insert from the following page] "the back of her head only was bald – with one or two large white warts or [indecipherable] projecting like so many ears"

and a strange gash or scar on one side of her chin had healed –leaving - in sight – part of the jaw bone – yet this humiliating spectre of our race was not without ornaments to – she had teeth set round her brow – fastened to the remaining locks of hair – and also a knot of brown feathers on her right temple – The roasting snake we had seen in the morning was the intended breakfast, as we now learned of this witch of the glen – and she was in fact the only inhabitant we had discovered within sixty miles of it – for the boys never came near us. –
As the country we had before us could only be traversed by packhorses I made arrangements for loading the but part of our equipment and provisions on the horses & bullocks - in the direction which seemed most likely to admit of our passage – leaving two men armed with the remainder (at this spot until we could send the cattle back for it –

Tuesday 20th December
– Just as we had loaded the pack animals & were about to start – leaving part of our stores in charge of two men we discovered that our native guide had suddenly disappeared:- this circumstance was most surprising and suspicious at this time especially as I had promised him a tomahawk a knife and a blanket – we had also given him plenty to eat. 2 ½ lbs flour daily – and his choice of any part of the kangaroos we killed – and as he was already beyond his own beat, I should cheerfully have given him his well earned reward for what he had already done for us I proceeded some way among the mountains with the pack horses but the discouraging

[Page 28]
appearance of the mountains at length determined me on taking a different course – and I returned to the depot. with this intention I had left in the morning - The aspect of the These mountains presenting a barrier which would render the desired river deprive the colony of New South Wales of the advantages of the desired river which probably lies beyond them – I felt more than ever desirous to ascertain the course of the Nammoy – the head of which river is so easily accessible that I had reached its banks at a navigable part with my heavily laden drays in three weeks from the day I left Sydney – still the course of the river Darling wh. Capt Sturt found running from North to South a considerable stream in a latitude much further North than where I had made the Nammoy – made it seem whether this river might not terminate in that or in some swamp supplying – its saline waters – If it preserved a North West course on the contrary and entered the Kindur according to the account of Barber, there certainly appeared room for it to do so, and the continuation of the Warrabangle range – or [indecipherable] the flat country in its prolongation was the most probable division of the waters flowing to the Northern and Southern Shores of New Holland –
It was evident that if I succeeded in finding a great river beyond the range then before me , that it would afterwards be most important to ascertain whether the Nammoy – carried the waters of Liverpool Plains in that direction – The lay of the country was much in favour of such a supposition and while Barber had reported that he not only saw but had also traced the Nammoy downwards of 300 miles in a North West direction where the A [indecipherable] River joins it - XI

XI [insertion from further down the page] "it seemed improbable that this river flowing through a flat country should deviate from the general direction it derived from the [indecipherable] of its sources – On these grounds I returned on the following morning the 21st December made a retrograde movement [indecipherable] Tangulda and the whole party having started at 6 o’clock –

[from opposite page]
Bearing of low hill on River E of Bullabalakit from Tangulda – 292.20 from camp say 295 °

[Page 29]
reached the former place of encampment in seven hours – the direction being about 21 miles" [XI] [end of insertion from previous page]
Tuesday 22nd Dec.
– Set off at ½ past 5 o’clock –[X]

X [insertion from next page 46 in the book] "In the afternoon I sent Mr White to ascertain how far the course of the main river was to the Westward of this course but he returned without having been able to reach it although he had been some miles to the Westward"

preceding the drays in order to mark the road and fix on the place for the depot on the Nammoy before their arrival – the bearing I took for my line was 295 ° - this being the direction of the little hill where the river strike>escapes passes to the open country Northward, as I observed from the pic of Tangulda – The name of a hill over the river to the Westward – according to the native (who was with me on Tangulda being Bullubullakit – This appeared to me in every respect the most eligible place for a depot and for embarking on the river – for here, after [indecipherable] a long course through plains and flat ground its bed by some low rocky hills – these are the lowest extremities of those extensive ranges, which are above so far [indecipherable] as to [indecipherable] that wide basin spacious basin in which lie all the plains Northward of Liverpool range – and at this spot close so that the waters pass towards the boundless flat beyond - Here therefore I expected to find a fall or shallow in the river if any such existed and to launch the boat below it – and as parts of the plains bear traces of inundation I considered the neighbourhood of a hill very desirable – The morning was very foggy so that I could see none of the hills; the perfume of the recently burnt acacia pendula bushes – was most fragrant – and, to me, quite new - the whole of my way was along level firm ground, until at about six miles from the former camp I made the River precisely where I wished – and I beheld with anxious hope the [indecipherable] & mysterious speed of its deep clear stream hastening Northward – the deeper bed and sparkling waters very different from the stagnant lagoon we had left that morning – the grass also was excellent - and on the little hill beside our camp and the river, hung pine trees sufficient for the purposes of the carpenter although on that morning we had seen no pines until we arrived at the place. We immediately found a very favorable little dock on the river – bank favorable for setting up & floating our boat – and a sawpit was immediately set up on four adjoining trusses. There in a

[Page 30]
a shallow place just above this – with a gravelly bottom – and the banks are there so practicable that a dray might pass without difficulty – some drift timber lay above this fall – and it was desirable to put the boats in below that point - I consider Bullabulakit for the reasons I have stated & and some others must always be a point of importance on this river, should our present hopes respecting its outlet be realized – Thus far our heavily laden drays had come without impediment from Sydney – through a country where the grass was generally so good – that most of the cattle had improved in condition on the journey although deprived of the corn to which they had been previously accustomed – Beyond these hills & this outlet the land presented a horizontal level as but "gradually declining to the Northwest", [indecipherable] is [indecipherable] country from whose bourne no traveller" yet ‘returned." – the course of the river as far as we could see was Northward, affording reasonable ground for hoping that it would join the supposed channel of the waters from the East, and so reach the Indian Ocean - Sat up till near 10 o’clock for the purpose of obtaining a lunar –

Friday 23d. December
– No movement going forward outside [indecipherable] so late as 6 o’clock – I got up hastily – and to my great disappointment found that the men who were to have set off early to cut wood had not set about it – one said he had not had his breakfast – the tools had not been taken from the cast, in short the apathy & apparent inactivity in the men about this most important part of the work was distressing to me, and I resolved to superintend them myself until the boats were launched – or at least ready - By ½ past 9 we had some good pine trees brought to the sawpit – and one upon it – the sailors were set to paint the inside of the boats – the Doctor to clear out the dock for laying down the keel &c and the bullock drivers & smith the make a stockyard – At 11 o’clock I discovered the grass on fire near our tents

[Page 31]
and with the assistance of the people at the boats fortunately got it out – this had been occasioned by one of the men (Worthington) carrying a fire stick to the saw-pit – Although I had that very morning cautioned him against doing so – I told the whole of the men that if fire arose again on that side I should stop all their tobacco during the whole journey - The whole All the country beyond the river was on fire so that I had not since I came to it – obtained a good view of the horizon - & the smoke darkened the air at night so that I lost my set of lunars – by the obscuration of Aldebaran when all the other altitudes & the distance had been observed - A spark would have set all our side the river in a blaze no food water would remain for the cattle – and our tents especially our ammunition would have been in danger – This practice of the natives setting fire to the grass in summer – appears to prevail universally – for fires appeared in many parts of the interior as far as the eye could reach – and it may even be worth consideration whether this may not be one of the causes of the high [indecipherable] of the hot winds blowing over such an extensive surface in summer while a considerable portion of it is actually burning.

In the afternoon I took my rifle and explored the river some miles downwards – and found its course nearly North and opening into smooth deep reaches – In my way back – I examined the hills on its right banks and found some beautiful specimens of agate & chalcedony. The principal rock being Trachytic Porphyry – of which I found some portions cellular like pumice – in others agates - & chalcedony – and a great part of the North side of the hill over the camp – consisted of the rock filled with Weevellitec nodules -

[Page 32]
Saturday 24th Decr ) Very hot – the framing of the boat getting on
Sunday 25th - ) The Sawyers hard at work – I worked [indecipherable]
Monday 26th – The first boat was launched at ½ past one – on the Nammoy – and the keel of the second immediately laid down
Tuesday 27th Completed letters (Dated 23d. to the Coll [indecipherable] – Colonel Lindsay
Sunday - Coll Snodgrass – Capn Forbes and Mrs. Morna
Wednesday 28th Decr.
Dispatched one of the men Stephen Banbelli on a pack horse with a pistol & 12 days rations – to carry him to Mr Bingles’ with the letters and return to the depot here –
Thursday 29th Decr.
Launched the second boat and having loaded both – leaving two men with the drays & bullocks & horses at Bullabulaket, we sailed about ½ past 11 down the Nammoy – The first reach or two presented no impediment – but we at length were stopped by an accumulation of drift timbers & gravel at a spot where two large trees – having fallen in from opposite banks – met across the stream – From the magnitude of these trunks and others interwoven with rubbish and buried in the gravel supported them I anticipated a large delay – but from the activity of the whole party some of whom especially the sailors – were up to their necks in a minute applying the cross–cut saw under water – we had a clear passage found in less than half an hour, and we again proceeded –
In descending this stream I found it practicable to survey it by a very easy process – A set of tables have been calculated by Dr. Wollaston, in which are given the angles in minutes – subtended by bodies of six, twelve, twenty thirty & forty feet long at certain distances. – having a pole therefore of twelve feet long the ends distinguished by papers held by a man at the bow of the second boat at one end of a long reach while I observed while the angle was observed with a seXtant which these papers subtended at the other - & referring to the table obtained the distance was obtained in feet – the bearing also being taken with a Kater’s compass – the whole operation could be performed in half a minute and the boats proceeded – the second boat laying to at the turning when the first observn. Was made – till the first boat had got to the next turn & sounded the signal for the second to come on – after the next obn. Had been made, and so on, - Such was our first progress down
this

[Page 33]
this placid stream – which in most parts had the appearance of a canal from the evenness of its banks and the stillness of its waters - and, but for the frailty of our boats, I might have traced it, thus satisfactorily to the sea – scarcely, however had the first boat got to another turning, than hurried shouts were heard from the second, whose appearance he then awaited for the measurement of the distance – on running over land to the spot, we found she had touched some sunken stump – and instantly filled so that all the loading was under water – and but that she was hastily run to shore – across a trunk sloping under water from the shore – the boat & her cargo must have gone down in deep water – this having unfortunately happened where the river was deep under very steep banks –
The whole of our tea – sugar – and tobacco - flour was immersed – also great part of the flour & pork – but the flour being in bags and the pork in barrels was not injured – fortunately all the gunpowder was in the first boat. – no time was lost in getting the cargo on dry land and heaving up the boat, when we found a rent in the canvas on her larboard bow – this the sail maker covered with a piece of canvas – and a coat of tar so that, in about two hours the boat was reloaded and afloat – no sooner however had I again stepped into the first boat & - had shoved off – expecting the other – than the same sort of shout was heard – and on again running to the spot we found her once more on the point of going down from a similar hole made in the starboard bow! – The It was now near 5 o’clock we had only got down about two miles and I determined to encamp – and continue my journey by land as it was evident that the loading was too much for canvas boats in slight frames in a river full of fallen timber – without very cautious people to guide them. In the afternoon I plotted the river found we had got about two miles down it I also marked the road (164 [indecipherable]) back to Bullabalakit from where I found we had only got about two miles.

[Page 34]
Friday 30th Decr
– The cattle arrived from Bullabalakit at 9 o’clock having sent four men on early in the morning to assist the two left there in bringing the drays, carts and horses – to where we had landed from the boats the only difficulty now was respecting the messenger who was to join that depot in ten days – as he was mounted it would be in his power to make three of our journeys in one day - I therefore three days rations of flour, tea & sugar were therefore buried – (or planted to use the colonial phrase) – in the spot where my tent stood – and a paper having directions to Bombelli printed in large letters, as he could only read, - to come on after the party & informing him where the provisions were deposited - It was Pork could not be placed under ground as the native dogs were likely to scratch it up – and the site of my tent was chosen because this was known to Bombelli but could not be known to bushrangers had any such come there in the interim. – the tea sugar & biscuit having got wet in the sunken boat I was compelled to halt this day in order to save these articles if possible by drying them in the sun – and our endeavours were successful the heat having been very intense – The sugar was spread out in a liquid state in small quantities on tarpaulins – and the tea also spread thinly on a large tarpaulin and thrown about – occasionally – and thus we were enabled to pack it up again in canisters quite dry in the evening, losing only in the weight of the whole 29 ½ lbs – The sugar also chrystalized again so that it could be put up without danger of fermentation – Hitherto in many days I had anxiously watched the4 smoking red hot sky for some appearance of rain both no dew nourished the grass which had become quite yellow, and the river on which I had set my hopes – was rapidly drying up – The thermometer in my tent generally reached 100 ° of Fahrenheit – during the heat of the day -: at length – this afternoon the welcome sound of thunder was heard – and dark

[Page 35]
dark clouds rendered the evening brought on refreshing evening earlier than usual -: these soon poured down a heavy shower on the yawning earth – heavy flakes of ice or hail accompanied it – and a few of these were rendered water which was before as warm as the blood – a delicious beveridge – We caught some fish in the river – a perch weighing 3 lbs which was very firm & rich – During the forenoon – I made two drawings of a small lobster or large shrimp – which was found in emptying the water out of the sunken boat – This is quite similar to an inhabitant of all the fresh water lagoons about Lake George where I have found the dried shells of these on places where water had been but very temporarily – so that how such a shell fish had originated in such situations was not easily understood – I therefore made an exact drawing of this – as of a well known though rather peculiar inhabitant of the fresh waters of Australia – and as a companion of the cod – which is here also a fresh water fish X

[X this insertion I have put as a footnote]
This day we also dismantled our boats, putting up the canvas as before – and arranged the carts drays &c for an early start next morning –

Saturday 31st Decr. 1831
– Left the ground at 7 o’clock – and following the bearing of 340 ° - that is 90 ° West of North – we travelled first through a scrub of Acacia Pendula – in which were some Eucalypts – at 2 ¾ miles we entered a spacious open plain which seemed to be skirted by the river on the Westward at the distance of about two miles – our course lay over the more elevated Eastern part – and at 4 ½ miles we left it continuing through a scrub of Acacia Pendula which at 7 miles opened into a forest of apple tree & others of the eucalyptic trees class – at 9 miles – we reached Old Womans creek – the passage of which on account of its steep banks – took an hour and a half – I therefore halted here – as I apprehended a

[insertions on the opposite page to the above]

1. [this is a comment near the top of the opposite page] "The Rocks of the hill E of this camp consist of greenstone with veins of compact felspar – and having also fragments embedded – "

2. [XX this comment in the middle of the opposite page is an insertion in the following No. 3] "witht. appearing much alarmed, even at the [indecipherable] appearance of boats on the Nammoy –

3. [X] Several black swans appeared floated gracefully before us as we proceeded down the glassy stream [XX] – and, as it were to preserve consistency in contraries – that bird of darkness the owl – in beautiful plumage appeared flying about the trees in broad day light like other birds – It may also be added that mice were frequently seen to run about the trees, and sit on the boughs like sparrows – A species of rat also is very abundant, the earth being every where perforated with their holes - & as to have a rotten appearance; The surface being thereby rendered rather inconvenient for walking on – But amongst the peculiarities which it is my duty as a traveller to relate of this interior part of this country - perhaps I [indecipherable] observe that the habits of the bees are not amongst the least remarkable – if we may judge from a singular & inconvenient circumstance which occurred to me at Bulabalakit, - where on the morning I was leaving that place after having been encamped some days, found the barrel and hollow end of the ramrod of my loaded rifle partly filled with wax and honey - ! – Fortunately as I had observed a bee enter the muzzle to try the barrel – when I found that waX to the depth of about two inches lay on the ball – It is somewhat remarkable that while honey & wax had been deposited in both these tubes – that none was found in an empty double barrelled gun which lay behind

[Page 36]
a scarcity of water on the country before us – The afternoon , morning was calm and very hot. but at 3 o’clock the sky sun became gradually dim and very distinct thunder was heard – at length the sky was entirely overcast – and full of thunder without any rain until a few drops fell about 6 o’clock – at ten the sky was again clear – the air refreshingly cool –
Sunday – 1st Jany – 1832 Set off from the camp at 6 – oclock following the bearing of 340 ° or 20 ° W of N – The ground was very good for travelling – we soon approached the Western extremities of the Trachytic or Lindesay range, near which, at - miles from Maule’s creek we came upon an open plain – the soil very rich – it extended furthest to our left or towards the river – on crossing it, we again entered a thin scrub of acacia pendula, but the ground was very good for travelling as most parts had been recently burnt – we crossed a surface of gentle undulations, - and downwards along one extensive valley – I had a view of part of the flat country in the West – the most striking feature in which was a naked ridge of yellowish rock – which stood above the rest of the woody country, as if on one side of the river – I could have much wished to have examined the structure of that irregular mass – had circumstances permitted, - but we were proceeding without much hope of finding water – with thick scrubs & rocky hills apparently on our right – so that the route of the party required all my attention – At length a valley appeared before me in which from the nature of the mountains enclosing its head – I felt certain of finding water – but the channel of the stream, although of considerable breadth – was quite dry – and I in vain searched in its bed for water – a mile upwards – its course was - and it had its rise amongst the WW.n. extremities of the Lindesay Range – at 9 ¾ miles I changed the course from 330 to 320 – and at 12 miles – the W head of the Range (Mt. Jarvis) bore North – its low W. exty distl. ab.t 400 yards –

[opposite page continued from previous page footnote] the rifle - nor in any other part of the tent – it might have been an experiment worth trying to have left a few grams of powder in an open bottle hung on a tree – to see whether the bees having a fancy for [indecipherable] would have filled it with honey before our return – The bee which makes the honey found in trees by the natives is smaller than the common fly and as I have been informed has no sting – the natives obtain the honey in considerable quantities from holes in the trees – frequently as much as a quart of [indecipherable] honey from one tree – the wax seems different from the substance forming the honeycomb of tame bees, being edible and agreeable, dissolving readily in the mouth , & having the consistency & taste of those cakes wh. are made of flour eggs & sugar – The bee which I frequently observed about my tent was as large as the tame bee of Europe – and had a sting – I am of opinion that it was different from the small wild bee which makes the honey – found usually by the natives:-

[following observation table indistinct and not transcribed]

[Page 37]
We were drawing close on the undulations from these mountains at 15 miles – when a thick scrub or brush obstructed our further progress – I entered it, and penetrated about a mile & a half without seeing any appearance of water – or possibility of getting through it with the drays – the day was excessively hot – yet we had not seen a drop of water the whole way – I determined to encamp on the Namoy – and turning to I followed down – the bottoms of flats - & hollows tending to which had the lowest tendency – and I thus made the Nammoy – at its most Eastern bend – a most favorable circumstance; the hollows and ravines falling towards a river seldom join it save but where it takes a bend towards them & these [indecipherable] run to this point . We this day travelled 21 miles – the heat was excessive (97 ° in the shade4) – The river was shallow with dead trees when we encamped – but below – it formed – a very deep and broad reach – In the evening the musquitoes were tormenting – as I found in taking the alt. of Aldebaren & Rigil – in the evening – The lat. of this spot was – 30 ° . 24’. 44" – a cod was caught in the river

Monday 2d. January 1832
Started at 6 o clock – and pursued a N.W. course after getting clear of the river - : my object being to keep it within reach if possible, in case of scarcity of water - : at about 1 ½ miles we crossed a small water – course with some pools in it – this I named creek – and at miles we came on the bed of a broad river flowing Westward which had not however much water in it – this I named - It had the appearance of a very considerable stream, judging by the width of its banks, and the large water worn stones forming its bed – Both these streams had steep banks – which required some care with the drays, but we fortunately crossed both – without much delay – at length we ascended by a gradual slope – a low ridge which had on its summit – red gum trees whose yellow trunks presented a striking

[Page 38]
contrast to the other trees – between which and these the separation was very defined – On this hill the stones were of old red sand stone – the first sand stone I had seen on this side Liverpool range – when we began to descend a little at a very gentle inclination we again entered an acacia pendula scrub – this became thin – and at length opened to a clear verdant surface which extended to where the slope prevented further view – for we were still as it appeared, on elevated ground – a fresh and cooling breeze from the N.W. met us, - and it seemed as if the redoubled hot – wind of Sydney wh comes to this quarter was already tempered with the sea air of the North – no such breeze had previously [indecipherable] our blood and we felt as if on the margin of a new world – on the previous day we had very intense heat contended with dense scrub – at the base of mountains which had already been a barrier to our progress in one direction – and round which it seemed impossible to travel from the impenetrable nature of the scrub – and the utter want of water – we were now leaving these mountains behind us – on the right, and a most favorable country lay before us - A grassy plain – overlooking a lower country stretched far to the West and, in our part – beyond this plain – the country consisted of those long sweeping undulations, among which there is seldom any difficulty experd. in finding water – It lay open before me quite round to the North East – where the outline of the Trachytic [indecipherable] range commenced, and found a sublime horizon on the East - side of the summit having very remarkable pointed and [indecipherable] forms –
One tree of a very uncommon kind, grew at the border of the plain, X

X [from the opposite page] "and about a mile to the West one solitary hill rose in it like an island in the sea, it was flat topped with trees on it and consisted of trap – rock – This hill had a very remarkable & uncommon appearance in short"

the earth – the air – and the trees seemed to me to belong to – a new region – and there appeared no longer any impediment to my further progress in search of its as yet unknown wonders – Still the low country where I expected to find water was distant and I had reason to believe the course of the Nammoy had been thrown far to the Westward by the range I had crossed especially as an opening the furthest distance Westward seemed to indicate its course in that direction – I was therefore

[Page 39]
following the bearing of 325 ° towards an apparent concentration of vallies – and was crossing a rather elevated piece of grassy plain – when I came upon a deep pool of excellent water ! – this was quite unexpected and appeared most providential as no other pond or channel was near it, - I have, however, once or twice observed the channels of water courses – on rising grounds in this part of the country – and this must have belonged to some current from the hills – This morning we also killed a large Kangaroo which was given chiefly to our famished dogs – although the men of the party were very desirous of large what I [indecipherable] to share – Our good fortune did not end here, for having directed one of our sailors – to the no small amusement of the other [indecipherable] to fish in that pond – he caught a dish of lobsters – of the same description as the one found in the Nammoy -!

In the afternoon I walked to the isolated hill and took a sketch of it, and another similar due south of it – about ½ a mile distant – the whole consisted of trap with small crystals in it – the naked solo mass projected in the top with little or no soil – the hill was narrow across from East to West – and its ridges extended due North & South the steepest side was to the East – and its height about 50 feet above the plain – The Northern direction of the summit was in conformity to what I have observed of trap summits in N.S. Wales -: of these the elongated directions point invariably North and South – a fact perhaps of some importance in the geological character of the country – In the soil of the plain were coralline limestone nodules – as in all other plains of this kind I have seen in the country –
From that hill I sketched the trachytic range in the East – the faint outline being barely perceptible under a thunderstorm whose distant growlings were just heard, - the picturesque of the whole was fine – although the outline was not very sharp or well relieved – the singular shaped summits looked like

Footnote: From top of opposite page. "3d. Jany.
[indecipherable] 225 for 12 miles then North – at a h. pt Mt Lindsay base N 99 E

[Page 40]
castles at war with the elements – for no other sound broke the dead silence which reigned on that calm evening, over the plains in the other direction seemed boundless – the imagination had therefore ample scope – while it was indeed difficult to gaze on the same to the Eastward in the majestic mountains being united with all the graduations of an [indecipherable] distance and – thriving into the plains noble turbans fit for temples or palaces without peopling it with other inhabitants than a few wandering bands of dingy savages –
The night was dark and stormy and about ten it began to rain – the soil of these plains was of such a nature that a few days rain would have rendered them impassable for our bullocks and heavy drays –

Tuesday 3d January 1832
- Fine serene morning – although the Eastern mountains still laboured under clouds of thunder, we left the Lobster Pond at 6 oclock and continued our journey 35 ° W of N. for the first 12 miles having reached at length the Northern limits of the plain, we encountered after passing through some slight woods of acacia pendula & eucalyptus – a thick brush – through which we had to cut our way a mile & a half – as we were at this work one of the men said he heard human voices – which I disbelieved – thinking it might have been the cry of native dogs – however after we had got intro the open wood – we came on two newly felled trees, cut too, with an iron axe – and almost immediately afterwards – I saw a black at a distance – we then saw a tribe hurrying off, and being very desirous to conciliate the natives and gain if possible some information respecting the country I sent Dawkins – W. White’s man – forward to them without arms and he prevailed on some of them to stop and speak

[Page 41]
to him – while the woman and children were hurrying off – after he had been long enough with them to assure them of our friendly intentions I went forward but the natives round Dawkins, on seeing me approach hurried off – one by one – so that when I rode up – none remained, save one young man – we found it impossible to understand a word he said – whether he understood us was not as clear – as he always replied fluently to what we said – but his gestures did not indicate that his answers had any reference to our questions - : this native had no spear or weapon – save three little sticks he had in his left hand – he was also without dress or ornament and very slightly tattooed – his features, good and the impression of his face ingenuous and it was a subject of much regret that we could not understand him – as he could doubtless have informed us of the situation of the large river – and how to get to it – and the assistance of our late guide as an interpreter would have now been invaluable –
There appeared about thirty individuals of that tribe on this occasion the other men who had gone off on my approach were armed with spears – and when we at length prevailed on the young man to approach the head of our column – some of them were seen looking on from a distance although evidently much afraid of us – I found, on first approaching the native – that Dawkins had previously put a piece of tobacco in his mouth which he seemed to chew out of complaisance but if he was (as was most probable) a stranger to this leaf, it was no very likely way in my opinion to gain his good will, - I considered it very desirable to convince these natives of our friendly disposition, and, intentions – I endeavoured to explain, by gestures, as well as I could our object – pointing in the direction I was going, and I took care to make no deviation from our line of route, on seeing these natives but to proceed steadily on our way. Some bread was offered at length to the native, which he readily eat – as if he had seen it before – and a halfpenny which he signified by gesture that he

[Page 42]
would wear on his breast – the usual mode the natives adopt of wearing such coins - but what was of much more value to him I presented him also with one of the small tomahawks I had brought for the natives which was doubtless to him the most valuable of all gifts and we then proceeded forward he hurrying off evidently delighted at his good fortune – which I thought he well deserved considering that he was the only one of his tribe who had courage to approach us –

[This page has in the middle a sketch of the mountains which continues onto the following page. The following page also has many estimations of distance and heights. These have been put as a footnote.]
We soon entered upon another extensive open plain - and about on which the grass was green and rich soil when we had got half way across – changed to a stiff clay and the colour of the grass marked the difference by passing from green to a reddish colour: this clay seemed to form the higher part of the plain. Passing through another acacia pendula scrub [start of sketch of mountains] we reached a plain still more extensive – and when about the middle of it – I was informed by the carpenter that the wheels of one of the drays were falling to pieces, and required immediate repair – we halted accordingly – and had some wedges driven into the bushes – From that part I took a sketch of the Eastern range and the bearing of its principal points summits – Therm. 97 ° -
On leaving the Northern limits of that plain we passed first through some acacia pendula brush and then entered a scrub – of forest oaks so thick – that the drays had to halt – until we cut a way through it for upwards of two miles – when it fortunately at length opened into patches of clearer ground – I preserved my Northern course through all these as well as on cutting through the scrub – The heat was excessive, it was now 4 o’clock and during the whole journey from 6 in the morning we had seen no water – I was thrice some way before the party and quite without the hope of finding any looking for a spot for our tents on rather elevated ground when I perceived a

[Footnote: Calculations made on opposite page]
4 Jany Started at 6

Course N – at 3 miles on the Eastern side of an undulating plain
[small sketch of hills] W hd. of two N hd. Trachytic R. [indecipherable] N. 96 ° E –
The open parts of plain extending W.
at 4 ¾ crossed chain of ponds app on rising ground! & falling W wd.
there centered a beautiful & extensive plain Mt Riddel centre [indecipherable] N. [indecipherable] E –

Wh d. of N. 101 ° [indecipherable]
at 8 ½ in the plain at [indecipherable] bushes changed the course to 24 ° E of N
Centr. Mt Riddel bore 52 °

[small sketch of hills] – W of 2 [indecipherable] – 110 °
E W E of D – 99 ° 30 °:
W Sth riddle – 50.30
S E D – 53 –

[continuation of sketch of hills from previous page]
Western horizon not dist t. but all plain
m.
at 10 ½ - crossed a small hollow – wh. must sometimes have water and beyond it the usual rich cracked soil of the plains changed to a stiff white clay – easier for travelling on –
Wh d. of two bearing – 114 °
[indecipherable] of Riddel – 52" 30’
13. Gain the bare crest of swl . W of Mt Riddel wh bore 94 °
Whd. of two – 131 °
E D – 120 °
The Therm. at 9 ock 108 & deg; at 2 distant thunder 1/3 Sky o’cast
at sunset 90 °
½ past 7 – strong hot wind set in from [indecipherable] NE. Therm. 90 °

[Page 43]
small hollow with an unusually large tree hanging over it – I could scarcely believe my sight when I saw the shadow of he tree in a good pond of water – my gratitude to Providence may be better conceived than described – especially by those who have felt the want of this precious element after such a hard days [indecipherable] suffered by my party under the intense heat of that day – the bullocks ran furiously at the water, and seemed as if they never should have drunk enough while I, although an old soldier, was so impressed with gratitude for the blessing – that I was really & truly shocked to hear the naval oaths from the men as they filed their buckets – on an occasion which to me was almost as impressive as, if the water had sprung miraculously from a rock –
I must here notice a peculiarity wh. I have observed in the structure of the ground – on and about these plains, which I never saw elsewhere – In all other parts of the world I have seen – the beds of water courses are invariably in the lowest parts of vallies – the chains of ponds or water courses here appeared to be on the highest part of the ground – indeed on one occasion I noticed a dry water course on the back of a ridge with the ground sloping from it downwards on [indecipherable] side – By what current, the Lobster Pond was replenished I could not trace; for the plain was level and so elevated that its horizon was quite at [indecipherable] as if it overlooked a lower country – This pond where I had now encamped was connected with several dry ones – but there was no slope to it on either side from higher ground – and it was only by tracing the line of long grass upwards to the hard ground of the West – that I ascertained that the course if X

X [insertion from opposite page ] "[indecipherable] the line of these pools any current ever existed"

to be Eastwards – This we named Scrub Pond – and ascertained the latitude to be 30 ° 6’ 30" so Var n. of compass 7 ° 30’ East. On the South West – half the horizon was illuminated in the evening by some extensive fire in the bush near us – which if reflected a light at least as clear as moonlight to our camp. –

Wedy – 4th Jany - Left scrub Pond at 5 mins past 6 and pro -

[Page 44]
proceeded due North, in which direction I just avoided some thick Scrubs on either hand – the wood opened gradually into a thin sprinkling of acacia pendula bushes – and at length into open plains after 3 miles travelling we were on the Eastern skirts of an intensive open plain – the ground there being gently undulating when we crossed at 4 ¾ miles we reached the Northern horizon which seemed rather elevated, but here we found a water course with abundance of water in ponds – the opposite bank being the highest part of the ground where the ponds this was another instance of the anomalous structure character of the surface already noticed, and this peculiarity seems to support as far as it goes, the theory of this its form a tear by the operations of existing causes – These vast plains – consist chiefly of a rich dark coloured earth – to the depth of 30 or 40 feet and even more. This is so absorbent that water will not lie on the surface until the whole mass is saturated – and in dry weather it opens everywhere in large deep cracks ready to receive much more than all the water which falls in ordinary seasons: The existence in high situations of the few ponds – or currents of water to be found there may therefore depend more on the nature of the sub soil – than on the direction of those hollows which usually form the natural drainage of surface water [indecipherable] lead it into streams – hence perhaps also the anomalous character of the hollows – a disproportionate want of symmetry which I have observed in the slopes – and other peculiarities. That this [indecipherable] consists of decomposed trap – or at least belongs has some affinity to that rock – is evident – both because fragments of that rock are always found on it – and because all the neighbouring hills consist of trap – that the deposit is diluvial seems most consistent with our present theories, for it cannot be considered the product of gradual decomposition both because angular fragments of trap are to be found in frequently occur in it – and because no such soil is found on the low trap hills I have described – which at the summits are flat and elevated only

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fifty feet above the common surface of the plain – the irregularities of the surface & the scooping out of the vallies – appearing in perfect in proportion to the ineffectual operation of the mere surface water on these extensive deposits seem on the contrary attributable rather to post – deluvial action, X –

at 8 ½ miles – seeing boundless plains in a Northerly direction – I changed to 24 ° E of North – I when we entered this plain (which also reached to the horizon Westward) – a new and very promising view opened to us on the North East – of the country beyond, or on the North side, of the Trachytic range in which of course I felt particularly interested – This consisted of a finely undulated open country – broken with one or two very picturesque, isolated hills – patches of Wood being scattered in clumps – and I considered it from that aspect one of the finest countries in Australia from the appearance of a long valley which extended apparently from the mountains across the line direction of my route I expected to find a running stream – but I was seriously dissappointed – for in a valley about three miles broad and extending up to the mountains on the East there was not even the trace of any watercourse and I proceded across the hill to another – valley close under two sharp hills [indecipherable] – and we encamped having done abt. 16 miles – I sent Mr White down the hollow till he reached the junction of the two vallies – having examined the head of the water course previous to our halt – no water was however to be found – and what was rather unfortunate the day was unusually hot & altogether an extraordinary one – the Thermr. which had never been above 101 & deg; now stood at 108 ° in the shade! – at 2 oclock it began to

[Drawing of bird on opposite page titled "Crows under Mt Frazier
Gasping "with their mouths open"]
[Footnote: X too indistinct to transcribe and make sense]

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thunder, & heavy clouds covered the sky in the afternoon at ½ past three but no rain fell to refresh our cattle – Mr White proceeded along the line of our intended route so that if he had found water a few miles on I should have that evening moved to it – but he returned at dusk after a very long walk in the excessive heat without having found any and we [indecipherable] and we had [indecipherable] to pass the night without it – at half past 7 – a strong hot wind set in from the N.E. and continued during the night (thermr. 90 °) but this, instead of bringing, as at Sydney – a cloudy sky – with rain next day - seemed to clear away the clouds, and the stars shone bright in the upper part of the heavens, although that part above the horizon in the wind’s eye seemed hazy – and – I thought I felt one or two drops on my face about 9 o’clock – During the night I was awoke by the flight of some eagle or large bird which must have been perched on my tent for the shaking of it awoke me, when I distinctly heard the flapping of very large wings in its flight from the tent

Thursday 5th Jany.
No dew had fallen during the night, and we loaded in haste our distressed cattle, so that the red hot sun had scarcely risen as furious as ever over Mt (Fraser – first hill to be named) when we were [indecipherable] – although the horses in particular seemed rather unwilling to work:- the bullocks worked well – I followed the bearing of 24 ° E of N – from the top of the clear ground about 2 miles from our camp and I had the satisfaction to observe - from that direction from this height an outlook or valley crossing our course & opening into level country on the left from the mountains on the right – and a misty line seemed to indicate evaporation The country between was entirely open and sloping towards that that direction – the rise on the opposite side being wooded and more abrupt and covered with wood – and connected with a bold forest hill towards on the right of our course, and which seemed likely to concentrate the waters from an extensive vale to the Eastward into the channel which I had fixed my hopes - : these were not dissappointed, for on entering the scrub

[The opposite page has a drawing of hills coloured washed brown (possibly with red soil) and their measurements which are not transcribed]

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about 200 yards. I came on the banks of a deep pool piece of water – apparently in the bed of a small river – I returned, in haste to the party some way behind and informed them of the abundance of water being at hand – one man had fallen behind with such violent pains in his belly – that he was unable to ride – I ordered a kettle of water to be carried in all haste back to him – another man, (a bullock driver) was also ill and riding on one of the drays: the poor bullocks – were still drawing well – but the tongues often hung out of them hung out as if they suffered from extreme thirst – In half an hour we were all set to rights, - but I then thought that there was no man in that party who would not ever after set a higher value than he had ever done before, on pure water – which would then I imagine have been seemed adulterated by the administration of any juice or spirit ever made extracted or distilled –
This friendly creek and the [indecipherable] hill higher up above on it right bank I named MacNiven after a very old & much esteemed friend – At this also brook a pond a little higher up we shot two ducks about of an uncommon kind – the most distinguishing mark being a purple speck on the head behind the ear – Therm at 4 – 101 ° I at first was of opinion that we had at length reached a tributary of the large River – but its course appearing about 36 ° only North, of West – it may be supposed to join the Nammoy – if that [indecipherable] a [indecipherable] NW course from where I left it – The pool on which we encamped extended like a canal but with steep banks of soft earth - a considerable way Westward in one reach – the bottom was not in any part gravelly – but of soft earth although the cattle did not sink deep in it – (Lat – 29 °. 50’. 29" - )
Fragments of flint, basalt, and quartz abound in the soil here – these are very sharp and angular – which is indeed the case with most of the stones found on the rich earth of these plains in general –

Monday 6th January
– Cool morning rather cool - sky with clouds and distant thunder – moved off at 6 taking a Northerly course until impeded by the scrub about 3 miles on – X

X [insert from the opposite page] "at about two miles we cut a tree of a new description having a small roundish gum leaf – the bark & wood very yellow and hard"

through this we cut keeping as near North as the openings would allow us to go keeping. While I

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was some way ahead with the men and axes Mr White rode up to inform me that the wheels of one of the drays and the axle of another required immediate repair before they could proceed – and that this would take two days - I rode I rode back and however, on returning I found that they could be made to continue the journey some miles and I went forward to continue the opening through the scrub – and to proceed beyond in search of the nearest water, although from the appearance of the ground, and what we had lately suffered in this respect I had no great hopes of success – on leaving the scrub – which we get through at 6 miles had extended in all about three miles – I found a slight hollow which appeared to descend towards the North West – and as this was this was not far from my intended course – and dense scrubs appearing to the Northward – I followed it down although the hollow was at length lost in a level plain & slight rises appeared however on both sides – and a dry water hole indicated that there was still some descent from the hollow I had followed – I then kept a long narrow flat on which the long grass had been on fire on the preceding day – and following this downwards I came upon a Kangaroo – which I followed with my rifle to the Northward - and I then came upon a well marked water course, with deep ponds holes but all were dry – following it however downwards to where a light hollow I had first followed joint it – I found precisely at that spot a deep pool of water – and just below were two very large ponds with on a rocky bed -: the spot was rich in grass and being enclosed with lofty shady forest oaks & thick brush – was a most agreeable and sigh scene to me – after the dry burnt up flats I had left by which I had approached it, - Various indications of the presence of water assured me as I approached came near the spot that I was near it water was not far distant there were the appearance of pigeons – the songs singing of little birds at this all in strange notes never heard so I believe in NS Wales the colonies [indecipherable] and that constant companion of water holes in side the

[at top of following page]
"6 Jany.
at 5 mi. after coming through scrub N – changed on top of hill to 16 E of N"

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the mountains – the gum tree or eucalyptus -, for we were now in a region woodedwooded with other trees – and he only gum – trees grew with large short thick trunks – and numerous crooked branches – in overhanging creeks & water holes those ponds of the most permanent description - : X

X [Insert from the opposite page] " amid impervious oak – scrubs – and bushes of acacia pendula the well known tree of the land where we came, spread its arms but what was made valuable to us – here" –

7th Jany. 1830 – Halt to repair the wheels & aXles X2

X2 [insert from opposite page]
"which the very high temperature had damaged considerably – some of the spokes having shrunk more than an inch, - The night was exceptionally unusually hot – there was no wind and the sky overcast - few of the two slight showers fell – few of the party could sleep the thermn. – stood at 90 ° - I hoped did hope that at length we were to have some rainy weather, which was desirable which would have relieved us of the uncertainty of finding water – It had rained all day since I left Sydney ; during the whole journey till now heat had been our great enemy – weakening the bullocks - & horses drying up the water – destroying our wheels & [indecipherable] the fires, so that the country was ever enveloped in smoke

X [insert from the opposite page between "smoke and In the morning"] " and whereas the nights had hitherto brought a little coolness the last five had been unusually hot – and the disappearance of the sun below the horizon no longer afforded us much relief, the thermt. being seldom under below 96 ° during the whole day & usually 101 ° it was now as high as 90 ° [indecipherable] during the night – "

In the morning however the sky altho’ overcast gradually cleared – and we had the sun’s rays as intensely as ever – The winds ever since we had entered these regions had been from the North or North west - & the burst of trees at all [indecipherable] – the cloudy sky seemed to have a slight motion from the West – but there was very little wind –
The country appeared very generously wooded when seen from any height, but the lower grounds were frequently clear – or thinly strewed with bushes & small trees of acacia pendula – the other wood consisted chiefly of swamp oak or forest oak (I am not aware of any difference) – which grew in thick clumps or scrubs which often formed a serious obstacle to our progress – as it was necessary to open a way through but cutting the smaller trees whose and winding through the most open parts – these are more on the hills rising grounds or sides of and generally on the Northern or Eastern slopes – Little of the pine or [indecipherable] tree was seen after crossing he rising ground North of our last camp on the Nammoy – the above being the character of the woods & plains in all the country to the West & North of the mountains as far as we had come – The course of this chain of ponds appears to be also a point to the W. of NW which was the direction of MacNivens’ ponds – The rock in and about the banks & bed of this stream consists of a gritty yellow Limestone – in blocks of from two to three feet thick – lying contiguous – or jointed so as to form a sort of stratum
XX [insert from following page too indistinct to transcribe]
Found in the scrub adjoining these ponds a tree with a very slender leaf – the seed growing a prickly [indecipherable] on the boughs – the wood of a dark brown having a very agreeable perfume – neither this however nor the two others I have mentioned appeared abundant, but these were on the contrary about the only species to be seen – about - The day was cloudy the sun seldom appearing – the thermtr. however was as high as 100 ° in the shade – There was a [indecipherable] shower about 5 o’clock – The carpenter completed the

[from the opposite page] "Kangaroos were numerous by the water holes in the mornings and evening – several pairs of Emus were also seen"

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repair of the wheels & aXles –

Sunday 8th January – morning cloudy & pleasant, with a good breeze from the West – The stones in the soil here consist of flints – a conglomerate of small quarts pebbles – many water worn quartz pebbles – fragments of fine grained compact sandstone – and in the bed of the ponds a mile higher up Mr. White found a piece of petrified wood – apparently silex - These are named for sake of distinction Wheel Ponds – started at 6 exactly – Entered a – scrub at one mile – cut through it for 3 miles – then the woods opened and some box trees appeared on the flats – Shot a kangaroo at 5 miles – at 7 miles - came upon natives who fled X

X[insert from opposite page] "as we entered a forest from open ground we heard the sound of the natives – hatchets – on the trees – and soon after saw fires burning, presently one was discovered up in a tree, busy at work with his stone hatchet cutting out an opossum – we approached very near before he saw us – a gin & child having called to him – he looked quite terrified – bawled something to the gin who ran off - , threw down a sort of club – or Nulla nulla to the foot of the tree – and then began to ascend the loftiest branch – I called to him – in every friendly term of their lingo I was acquainted with, but all to no purpose – his only reply to every thing I said was "Agai" pronounced in a loud imperative tone – I then left the tree with the people & proceeded on our way, he instantly descended and ran off, picking up two spears which had been laid near the tree – we heard calls in various parts of the wood, and "whitefellow" pronounced repeatedly very distinctly & loudly, - this being the only name they have for beings of whom they originally had no idea hence they name us in our own terms"

[Opposite page sketch of mountain range with heights – entitled "from camp with.t water 8 Jany.]
This occurred near on the bank of a deep river in whose bed although deep broad & gravelly there was no water, its course was about West – This I named Musket Creek as all the xplain – an opening to the horizon in the [indecipherable] 10 W of N – continued across it at North – for about 3 miles – then turned N.5 ° E to avoid a clump of Scrub – at 13 miles we again heard the sound of the native axe – and I then sent a man of the party unarmed to speak to them, & ascertain, if possible – the situation of water – but as he did not return for a considerable time, I went after him, and found that he had addressed one very civil native who had just carried a quantity of wild honey to his wife gin & child – he betrayed no signs of fear & had no offensive weapons – but he refused to accompany Dawkins – XX

XX[insert from opposite page] "and freely gave him some of the wild honey"

beckoning him in turn to accompany him - & and the man thought he understood him, when he made signs that he wanted water – as he then pointed to the North East & South West as if there was water in both directions – the situation did not promise much, but the natives seldom go far from it – and some pigeons - & Kangaroo having been seen near

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we [indecipherable] hoped there might be some water hole – but in vain; for we entered a plain on passing the piece of scrub where the natives were seen – and after proceeding two miles West along a plain which seemed to descend in the same direction we encamped without water in a situation where there was none- at ½ past 4 o’clock – fortunately the day was refreshingly cool & cloudy so that there was much less disposition to drink – than when the therm tr. stood as on the former occasion at 108 ° ^

^[from opposite page insert] " and we had on both occasions – brought with us – about ten gallons which in temperate weather was about enough for the men" -

some of the men who went in search of water not having returned at disk – I sent up a rocket –

Monday – 9th January
– Started at ½ past five – and proceeded down the clear plain and at about a mile only from our camp further down we came upon several water-holes – when the cattle were all watered, and we continued – half – a mile further – seeing on the right, green grass by the edge of a hollow overhang by a spreading gum-tree I rode to it – and found a fine lagoon of considerable extent and brim full of the purest water – there were no reeds – but short grass on the brink with a few water-lilies – here we filled our keg and kettles – a daily precaution observed taken daily since we left the Nammoy – We had not proceeded much further – having only crossed one slight rising rise – when we observed high on the trees large tufts of withered grass and other deposits reaching the height of by which left no doubt it was evident that some innundation had reached that height – and I could not but conclude that we were approaching some great river – the trees on which hung at the height of 6 feet from the ground these accumulations of rock – were however on dry rising ground - and we saw [indecipherable] covered like the country in wh. we had just been suffering for want of water a variety of [indecipherable] – and some trees, - as we proceeded Northward however the ground sloped very gently we descended by a very slight slope to where enormous blue gum trees grew amid

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long grass and reeds in a rich alluvial soil – furrowed into hollows with overflowing currents -: the line of the River was now apparent marked by those large enormous [indecipherable] trees which usually grow on the banks - and which but an echo to the shriek of waterfowl I galloped impatiently to the bank – and beheld a stream which was deep & broad as compared to the Nammoy – but here in which no current was perceptable - the breadth and depth of its permanent bed however shewed this was a principal stream river - I could not believe at first that this was the Kindur – as it neither answered the idea expectations according I had formed of that river from Barber’s description nor did it appear to me sufficiently far to the Northward for the centre of the basin found by the Coast mountain – I expected to have had to contend with reedy lagoons dry plains & reedy lagoons before I reached Barbers’ Kindur – and I thought considered the latitude of 28 ° - as about 29 ° 30" – the width & depth & section of its bed – the breadth of its deposits furrowed ploughed up into numerous old channels & deep holes full of reeds - & the astonishing height and extent of its floods convinced me at length that this was the river which I was in search of – as it seemed extremely improbable that there should was any greater or similar river parallel parallel to it further to the Northward having a parallel course without joining it - and that if any such existed that it must join this, - I encamped here on this river at ½ past eight – having come only about 7 miles, - and about 12 oclock – I crossed the river on horse back – accompanied by a man with a musket carrying my rifle there being so little water running at that shallow that it did not wet the man much above the ankle – the steepness of the banks were the greatest obstacle to the passage of my horse – On this invasion of

[on opposite page – sketch of river and site of camp with dimensions]

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the territory of - I proceeded due North and in search of some rising ground, but all was quite level & an open plain for about two miles when I entered a brush of acacia pendula – and soon after crossed met an old channel or hollow made by the floods – beyond it there was the trees and slope appearance of indicated some other arm of the river and I even expected to find that perhaps the main channel of the stream – but my horse pricking up his ears forward – I saw a native emerging from the brush with two spears on his shoulder – he stood still on perceiving me and stared for a minute then taking a step back – and swinging his arm in the air, he poised one of his spears and stood in the attitude to throw,- we were quite out of the reach of his spear – although he was within that of my rifle – and although I did by no means desired a quarrel with him – I know it would not do to retire from his menace – I therefore charged towards him & had the satisfaction to see him turn walk off & finally disappear at a dog trot among the bushes – By riding forward I had gained as I wished a convenient hollow, so that I also could retire witht. covered by bushes his perceiving me – towards the river – This man was the most powerful native I had seen – he was coloured grey – probably with clay – so that my man believed him to be dressed – and his height was at least 6ft 2. - If such be the subjects of - The bed of the river was flat and consisted of small pebbles – not much rounded & mixed with sand – the banks were though steep were grassy – with large flooded gum trees – and it was easy to understand that with 6 or 8 feet of flood this would be a very formidable river – There were many dead trees

[opposite page – sketch of river and calculations – not transcribed]

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on it – and little water running – I levelled back to where I had seen the rock high in the trees – and found the distance to be 1843 yds or more than a mile; the height above the water level of the river then and of this rock above the flat alluvial banks adjoining of the river I made [space] feet – In the afternoon the natives were seen on the opposite bank a little above where he was fishing – and soon after they were heard even at the camp calling out "whitefellow" whitefellow" – A man went unarmed to speak to them but they had all disappeared, - Many curious plants grew about the bank here – an herb very so strong like of peppermint – as to make the eyes water & occasion sneezing when rubbed and applied to the nose –

Tuesday 10 January
– The weather had been cloudy for some days, and the sky was cloudy yesterday last evening to my great regret as it which circumstance prevented us from ascertaining the latitude & longitude of that part of the Kindur river we had made -: This morning it rained – we left the encampment at 6 o’clock as I had determined to follow this river down to its junction with the Nammoy: it was pretty evident by the map that this was the river Mr Cunningham had twice crossed calling it the Peel & the Gwydir – and this made its general course to be about West – I regretted much the very circuitous and long route that Mr Finch would have thus to follow – I wrote him a note and carved my initials on a tree, with marks as I had arranged with him that he might look particularly about the tree, where the letter was stuck under the bark, - The hollows about the river bank to the West of this place were deep and extensive – and I followed a line South for 3 miles to avoid them [insertion from opposite page] "and also to clear several thick scrubs which lay on my right – and prevented me from turning sooner to the Westward "– On crossing one slight hollow near the river we passed through the old huts of a native tribe – These were completed in a very superior manner to any I had ever seen – the spot

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was particularly picturesque, I saw 18 huts – but many were placed most romantically under shady acacias and swamp oaks, so that they might have been much more – numerous each had the form of a semi circle – the roof verging to a cone – but from the truncated part a flat roof stood formed like a portico supported by two sticks – and were close to the trunk of a tree – they were covered not, as usual, with sheets of bark – but with a great variety of materials – Reeds, grass, bark & boughs and the interior looked clean – and gave some idea not only of shelter – but even of comfort –
All these were doubtless the work of the unfortunate gins, - who are kept in a state of miserable slavery - The condition of these strike>unfortunate females is altogether perhaps – more wretched than that of any other class of women in the world - on the face of the globe – all ideas of warfare on the part of Australian savages are connected with carrying off women from their enemy – the prospect of bringing off a "myall gin" - or a wild is most inciting to war: that is the only spoil they can take from their enemy – and

[insertion from opposite page] "whereas in other lands the mere hope of a smile from his lady love would lead the young warrior to the cannons mouth, here –"

even the absolute possession of the fair is barely sufficient to bring these indolent inhabitants of the woods into actual combat and even then – the death of five or six only is usually all that takes place before the one party obtains possession of all the women belonging to the other –
The more gins any A man is considered rich – according to the number he possesses – for these gins – carry all his spare arms – and in fact every thing – on their backs – usually loaded in addition with a young child – the gin also provides food except what the man kills in hunting – fire – snakes – the hut or gunya &c &c – Thrust from the by her father from

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from his fireside and protection, while still an infant, she becomes the property of some man of the tribe – and finally his gin, - but only so long if any other stronger man of the tribe takes a fancy to her – the first must fight, or give her up – but in this case she would still be a member of his own tribe – she cannot however be at all certain of continuing among them with her tribe and may her relations, and probably become the property of a predatory husband – and joins a tribe of strangers – There – loaded with bags spare clubs & [indecipherable] like a beast of burden, carrying spare clubs she cheerfully still bears [indecipherable] follows her lord and master however long the journey - who stalks wanders quite unencumbered carrying only his spears or nulla nulla wanders long journeys through the bush, and depends on his gin or gins – for all his comforts - and it is surprising how soon these gins will procure a meal of muscles – grubs or roots for their Lord following him during a long journey & under a heavy load – Perhaps a child of 3 years old has also been seated above all – this seems to make no difference in the mother’s speed – of the mother – [Sometimes, but very rarely the mother kills children – especially females – are killed at the birth by the mother to save themselves trouble] – Such is the value of woman to man even in this degraded state, that those who have no gin call themselves "poor men" – while those who have two or more are considered rich – but it is necessary that he who thus monopolizes should be either a strong man or at least very accommodating to "poor men" –

X [insert from opposite page] "As I was proceeding before the party with a man marking the 15 trees – Mr. White camp up to inform me that the tire ring of the wheel of one of the drays had broke – and required immediate repair – on returning I found that some time was necessary to do it would be necessary to take off the ring, shorten the ------- that they might be closed on the spokes which had contracted during the shrunk much by heat and simple wear and that part of the tire ring or hoop should be cut – and two holes pierced in it for fixing it with bolts – afterwards – for we had no forge to weld it – and all this had to be done with a common fire – I therefore left three men to do this in charge of Mr. White and continued the journey with the rest of the party – The day was occasionally rainy – and the ground heavy for the bullocks – The day was occasionally raining and the ground heavy for the bullocks – the breaking of the ring was in consequence of the wedging which had been found necessary to apply to it during the heat – to keep it together –"

Having found an opening in the thick wood on my right, I took a Westerly route which I followed for five miles – over ground slightly wooded with patches of open plain – then changed to 60 ° West of North – which I kept for mile – when I reached an extensive plain and followed the bearing continued N.W. four & a half miles when I made a bend of the river and encamped at 3 o’clock – on open ground ½ a mile from it – and at 5 the other dray came up, the wheel having been thoroughly repaired –

[at the top of the opposite page there are calculations of distance and elevation – these are not transcribed]

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Wednesday – 11 Jany
– Proceeded Westward – and at 5 miles the river was close on my right – at 7 miles the river crossed my line at right angles and obliged me to turn to S. 20 West [ diagram of river turn] which I kept for two miles and then hit the junction of the Dry river (see 8th Inst!) which here was still dry to its junction, the bed was narrow almost like a ditch – but the depth – and permanent character of its banks sufficiently shewed that it was the outlet of water from a considerable tract of country – In a section of the bank & near the junction – there was soft chalky looking limestone We found a very good place near the junction, for the passage of the drays – and following the same course to two miles beyond the river, making 11 in all, changed from 20 to 33 ° West of South which I continued for 3 miles to where the scrub bounded the open ground (which I had kept the NW skirts of – from the river – and here also found a chain of ponds – on which we encamped a journey of 14 miles –

Thursday 12th January
– Proceeded Westward through woods and at 3 miles fell in with the river – turned to S.35 W ½ a mile where a large lagoon appeared on the left – then SW. 1 miles and keeping Southward ¼ of a mile still I was stopt by the river, which here takes an extraordinary bend to the South – In I found it necessary to go East & even Northward of East in order to clear if possible the furrowed broken up ground in its vicinity travelling about a mile in these turnings at length I was able to keep E. 20 S. a mile – which brought me to open ground, along which

[insert from opposite page] "13 Jany
Set off at siX – ground very soft – at ¼ past 7 [indecipherable] one mile – 214 ° - then changed to 230 – having plain on left – scrub on right -

[Page 58]
I continued in a SW direction across two plains – for about eight miles – when I crossed one of those watercourses or chains of ponds – apparently on the highest part of the plain – the course of this being nearly East & West – I considered it to be the same I had named Wheel Ponds – on my way Northward

[X insertion from opposite page] "In the beds of the dry ponds were corals of Limestone" –

Here we encamped – some very heavy thunder showers fell – but the sky was clear in the evening – and we ascertained the latitude to be 29.° 39’. 49" – We also got angles & bearings to Mt. Riddle – and other points of the Lindesay Range – seeing also Mr Frazier

[X insertion from opposite page] " We shot on these ponds a very beautiful pigeon – having a crest of long feathers on a finely formed small head – and the hues of its plumage contrasted very beautifully – the prevailing colours – were bluish grey and fawn colour – which tints served to relieve the beautiful colours – which were distributed sparingly, but with the best effect upon the wings – first there was a row of feathers of shining purple – tipped with delicate lines of white – and next these nearer the [indecipherable] a row of shining green feathers tipt with white in the same manner - : the feathers of the back were fawn colour each having a narrow rib access of the being crossed with a narrow stripe of peacock tail green –"

Friday 13th January,
A beautiful morning, and I mounted my horse exactly at 6 o’clock – and the drays set off following me in good order – but the rains of the preceding day had so softened the earth of these plains – that we were unable to proceed -! – in three hours – the bullocks with great labour had scarcely drawn the drays two miles – the wheels got clogged until the stiff clayey soil got wedged above the wheels – like rock – which took considerable time to remove – I was therefore compelled to encamp very unwillingly and thus to remain inactive although within two days journey of the junction of the rivers – and the day fine as possible – a fine breeze blowing from the North East – I had to sit still and await the effect of the breeze & sunshine on the clayey surface – and it soon began to crack and harden – and I hoped to be able to proceed next day – I rode down Northward towards the river – and came upon one of the hollows belonging to it at about a mile from the tents – these were situated about 3 miles S 50 W. from last encampment – On the brink of the water in the hollow near the river we saw prints of naked feet

[Page 59]
We afterwards rode forward (taking our rifles) to reconnoitre the course of the rivers, and the nature of the country and having proceeded 1 ½ miles - S. 33W. Mt. Riddle bore 118 ° 30’ – Mt. Frazer 115 ° and Mt Lindesay 128 ° - I was guided in this course by the wood on my right, which I did not wish to enter – as I considered the river to be not far distant within it – and as I had hitherto found – not far distant from the edge the Southern skirts of it – On my left the whole country was open, quite clear of timber and consisting of one general slope down towards the wood on my right which I had found the course of the river to be, and I was desirous to ascertain whether it was equally near at this last [indecipherable] – I therefore entered in a Westerly direction – and at a mile distant came upon a lagoon with steep banks like a river had – winding very circuitously – that this was connected with the river could not easily be doubted – but it was then late – and seeing fresh prints of feet on the margins of the lagoon – where I went to drink I was disposed to be satisfied without proceeding further, especially as the ground was both very uneven, and very brushy - In the evening one of the men found on the plain a large snake of a greenish grey colour – and broad – indistinct black rings – the belly yellow – the head small and soft, and the body thick & clumsy tapering off abruptly at the tail – I concluded that this was the kind of snake eaten by the natives – I gave it to the gins who skinned it and eat it all saying that it was the [space] - but food he had tasted for a long time – From this camp Mt. Riddle bore 123 °. 30’ –

Saturday 14th January – The night had been unusually hot, the morning broke and thunder clouds – which appeared falling in four or five parts of the horizon – the whole sky was dark X

X [insertion from opposite page] "covered with dark misshapen clouds"

[From opposite page] Camp 13 Jany Mt Riddle bore 123.30 °

[Page 60]
and threatened every moment to terminate my hopes of being able to cross these plains with the drays or even leave my present camp – no time was lost however in putting the cattle to setting off – for there was already a crust on the soil from - the heat of the preceding day – so that until rain did come down kept off so that we no longer the impediment to our progress no longer existed – The thunder however roared and heavy showers
were falling to the earth both to the windward and leward - but instead of real one to the North East whence the wind blew strong – seemed as if it had reached us but one drop only fell in my face there was also another to the South West which took the direction of Mount Riddel – but the clouds however to the windward instead of approaching sank gradually to the horizon; those to the South West took the mountains and also subsided – but what was very remarkable wind from the North East increased – while the storing in that quarter [indecipherable] at the same time towards the horizon into dim obscurity at length the beams of the ascending sun began to pierce them – and finally overwhelmed them all with a glorious cataract of light, and a day of brilliant sunshine enabled me most unexpectedly to pursue my journey without further X
[X from the opposite page] " apprehension of sticking in the mud" –

impediment. ----
We traversed as rapidly as we could a vast plain keeping the wood which enveloped the Kindur – on our right – we thus proceeded 12 miles in one direction (33 °: W of S.) – when we came upon a lagoon which appeared to me to be McNiven’s Ponds or Creek but here it was broad and brimfull of excellent water – having the winding character & every other appearance of a river – only that it wanted current – from its breadth & magnitude I afterwards considered this to be one of those surplus channels of the Nammoy similar to that at Tangulda – this however receiving McNivens Ponds – with which probably the former & winding direction of the lagoon originated, - I was desirous at this time to cross it and

[The opposite page contains small sketches of the hills and their dimensions and directions – these have not been transcribed]

[Page 61]
and make the Nammoy by following the same course – but I found it so uniformly deep and broad that we could not cross – I therefore followed it downwards or Westward for two miles – when I was stopped by another arm trending Northward which I supposed to be a surplus channel from the Kindur - the ground was very rotten & full of holes & cracks - & as bare – the grass having been recently burnt, as a newly ploughed field – I therefore returned to where first made the Lagoon and encamped – at 3 oclock nearly the whole of our journey till we made the lagoon sloping a slight slope in the direction in which we were proceeding . Mr Riddel & other points of Lindesay’s range were extremely useful – and [indecipherable]
Across the vast plains extent of level country – which it overlooks – Mt Riddel range always be an important landmark to travellers -; this and other points of Lindesay’s Range were extremely useful to me in determining in surveying as we proceeded -: the soil we crossed was almost all of the same description, a rich dark colour string – clay -. McNiven’s ponds were marked by a row of stunted trees along its banks – among these were several shrubs – I had not before seen – and a tree bearing a fruit resembling a small russet apple about one inch in diameter – these grew in clusters of 3 and four – the skin of the fruit resembled that of an old potatoe – the fruit was a very rich crimson colour like the prickly pear – its taste a very agreeable astringent and - but it covered a large stone so that there was little fruit – the leaves foliage resembled that of the acacia, - Here also we saw more of the Kindur Dove or Pigeon – and there was a great variety of aquatic birds abt. the Lagoon – Having plotted the journey on our map, I began to feel alarmed about the apparent course of the Kindur which was towards the River Darling whose source is still

[Page 62]
a mystery, - The possibility of this river joining it was a constant subject of anxiety to me now – as in that case – there would be no prospect of any river leading to the Northern Coasts from any part of the penal colony of New South Wales, and our journey in search of such a river would of course thus prove fruitless – and these memoranda, noted chiefly – as the records of our progress to such a discovery no longer of any would become quite uninteresting and useless, - at.29 ° 49’ 10" [from opposite page] "Long 148 ° 54’. 15"

Sunday 15th
Set out on horse in search of the junction of the river accompanied by Mr White and two men of the party – the situation where the Kindur met the Nammoy was most important, not only as the point where our land journey was to terminate but also as a better idea might be formed there of the future course of the Kindur afterwards – The arm of the lagoon from the North which lay in my way yesterday seemed to come from the Kindur – but this indicated a course much to the South of West in which case it must have joined the Darling -: the lagoon on which I was encamped – on the contrary – seemed to belong to the floods of the Nammoy – all was flat, and nothing appeared on the horizon but lines of wood with the exception of Mt Riddle & a few other points of Lindesays range – all very distant so the only to reconnoitre the country was to ride over it -: Having after observed an analogy between the course of rivers and the direction of the mountain ranges however distant which enclosed their basin it occurred to me that Mt Riddle which forms a prominent point of the Lindesay Range towards the North West would affect the junction of the Nammoy & Kindur especially the highest ground I had crossed on the NW of that range was apparently an extremity from this mountain -: being at present situated between the two rivers - & not very distant from either – I therefore took proceeded in the prolongation of the bearing of Mt Riddle

[Footnote – from opposite page ] "Lat. Lagoon of 16 Jany. 29 ° 43’.3" –
[Drawing of the junction of the Nammoy and the Kindur]

[Page 63]
thus – Mt Riddle bore 21 ½ ° South of East from my camp – and I went in search of the junction on the following in the direction 20 ° North of West – I was not a little pleased and surprised – after a ride of 21 miles in that direction to find our river, but a much better country than that in the immediate vicinity of the Lagoon on wh. I was encamped – at 11 miles we crossed a line of ponds – situated in the same singular manner (in the highest ground) as those I have already noticed in the plains – beyond these ponds – was a rich plain with a few groups of trees – the grass very good – In the ponds were numerous marks of the natives feet – and columns of smoke from their fires shewed they were still in the vicinity about those parts – indeed these fires seemed to mark the line of the Nammoy – and from the remains of their huts - & fires - on every part which I observed on every part I had seen of the banks of these large rivers – it appeared that they inhabit chiefly the banks of such streams and the chief [indecipherable] it is not only on account of the water – and fish – but because game is also there most abundant and can be more easily killed in going to drink – At 21 miles we reached another chain of ponds – beyond which we saw another plain, and I returned to the camp – with renewed hopes that the Kindur might still have a N. Westerly course – As we returned we made the Western extremity of the lagoon of Mc Nivens’ ponds which seems to derive its supply partly from these and partly from the floods of the Nammoy X

[X from the opposite page] " Its surface was smooth and sufficiently broad for all purposes of inland navigation – there were no dead trees – laying across – no shallows, and I wished much that either the Kindur or Nammoy had resembled it –"

Beyond this lagoon to the Westward was a plain bounded at the distance of some miles – by a line of trees within – which I supposed the course of the Nammoy to be – at this lagoon we also found the beans of the shrub [space] - which sometimes occurs in solitary bushes on the broadest plains –

Monday 16th January – Started at ½ past five following the line I had travd. the day before – we made the second ponds at a higher part – and much nearer so that the distance travelled

[from the top of the opposite page] " Monday 16th Jany - [indecipherable]West 20 North – or 290" –

at 11 miles, cross a chain of ponds their direction a little South of West –
18 miles encamped on a large lagoon belonging to another chain of ponds going West similar to the former

The country to the first chain of ponds full of melon holes and subject to inundation – covered with stunted river gums
That between the two chains of ponds – an open plain of rich soil similar to that Eastward of McNivens’ Lagoon -

[Page 64]
we found by the difference of latitude to be 17 ½ miles – which the bullocks accomplished by ½ past 2 o’clock – although much fatigued the day being very hot – (96 °:) – The ponds here formed a large lagoon with numerous ducks upon it – and there were numerous remains of native fires which on these waterholes, are usually surrounded by heaps of muscle shells -: but here we also found some fragments of large bones – which seemed human – and two skulls of some very large animals – At about a mile from the camp in the line of marked trees – I found growing at the foot a very large spreading tree – a plant which crossed with a stone fruit like a small cherry – the shape & colour much resembled a very young rose bud stript of its foliage – the taste was sweet with a faint peach flavour – these grew without a separate stem close to the stalk – the leaves were long & narrow somewhat resembling those of a cherry tree – the whole ran along the ground throwing up little tufts bearing fruit and a further examination [continued on opposite page] "found that the plant was parasitical – the root being attached to the branching roots of the large tree – whose leaf was very different – It was in fact a large flooded gum or box tree" - Found the Lat to be 29 °. 43’.3" –

Tuesday 17th January – Set off at 6 – crossed a small plain travelling N.W. then passed through some forest land beyond which was another plain – bounded on the North by a scrub at 7 miles of a different kind from any we had as yet met with This last plain was very fine – the trees grew in beautiful groups – wherein the acacia pendula again appeared the soil was of the best description – and the grass of a delicate green colour (not the Oat grass) stood like a field of young wheat – The scrub beyond it was close and of a different character from those we had hitherto seen consisting of a variety of dark leaved shrubs & trees – among others the boX - & flooded gum ^

[^ from the opposite page] "amongst the shrubs grew one with leaves like the gum tree bearing a fruit – the size of a small peach stone – shaped like a pear – of a delicate gum colour and in taste like a lemon"

I halted the drays – and went forward into this scrub with Mr. White to explore in hopes of finding one of the rivers – but after a ride of three miles we found no appearance of its immediate vicinity – at the border of this scrub the drays had come 7 miles – I at length determined on following a course 37 ° - W – of North – and soon entered an open valley which had somewhat the

[ from top of opposite page] "Tuesday 17 Jany - [indecipherable] NW – at 7 miles stopped by a scrub –
[indecipherable] to 323 ° follow this 4 miles – to a chain of ponds & encamped making 11 miles -

[Page 65]
the appearance of being sometimes the bed of a water course – it terminated in higher ground where some bulrushes grew and beyond these I entered a much opener and apparently more elevated country – most of the ground was covered with (? a weed with red stalk & small flower like seeds – growing in swamps) which stood high and alternated with patches of luxuriant grass – the trees were chiefly of the acacia pendula – there were also gum trees – At 11 miles we reached a chain of ponds – its course similar to all the others – somewhat to the South of West – here I encamped as the bullocks were fatigued, several being much cut in the neck with the harness - I proceeded forward in a N.W. direction with a view to ascertain if possible whether the river was yet near – on setting out, I perceived the fires of the natives at no great distance from our camp – I therefore sent Dawkins forward to them with a small tomahawk and a small loaf and he soon came upon a tribe of about 30 men women & children seated by the ponds with half a Kangaroo and some lobsters cooked – there was also large bark vessels containing water: as soon as they saw this man they rose and stared – but as he approached them they all fled precipitally – through the ponds to through the ponds to the opposite side – some wading up to the neck, and leaving several Kangaroo cloaks their provisions &c behind them – It was evident they had never before seen a white man – and such an apparition coming upon them suddenly – alone – and unarmed, in such a sequested spot must have astonished them – nor was this astonishment likely to subside when they heard his speech and beheld his gestures, which they at length ventured to do from behind trees – "What for you jerran budgery white fellow" – "whitefellow brother belong it to black fellow" – he then took out the loaf and began to eat it – and cut with the tomahawk against a tree – but all this was so little expressive of the probable necessity which would compel a stranger to go up to a tribe as he

[Page 66]
did and it was evident to for they knew nothing of our party being near them – that they did not venture to approach him, when he mentioned the Kindur, they pointed over to where it was but this might also have been a gesture for him to return – They had spears which some carried on their shoulders some in their hands without offering to throw them – I proceeded in a North West direction six miles without seeing any thing of either of the rivers: the country was chiefly open – and beautifully sprinkled with clumps of picturesque trees – It was very hot, until a thunder storm covered the sky – and cooled the air – During the night the musquitoes were extremely troublesome so that the men lay about on the grass, unable to get any rest.

Wednesday 18th January – Set off at ¼ past 6 – travelling in a North West direction – At 7 miles a thick acacia scrub being [indecipherable] front turned
to 7 ° West of North – and at ½ a mile further resumed a North West course – At 10 miles a burnt forest with numerous fires of the natives indicated that we were at length near the river – Continued along the borders of the wood in the direction of 7 ° North of West – at 13 miles changed to 29 ° North of West – at 13 ½ miles to 52 ° North of West – at 14 miles to North and at 15 miles made a small branch of the Kindur – I was much dissappointed in the appearance of this, which I could not believe to be the main stream – the character was so different from what I expected that of the river where I had first made it so much higher up – The current was slow but steady the water of a whitish colour – the depth very uniform – the banks – broken earth – with trees washed out by the roots

[Page 67]
in many places; the average breadth not more than 12 or 14 feet – the Southern bank was the steepest – its height about 14 feet, - I at first supposed this to be some branch from the Kindur and that the current of water had been supplied from the slight that river, which must have risen by the late rains – there was a want of the usual appearance of flood – and altogether a [indecipherable] about this stream which by no means encouraging - and it seemed possible that the river I had first seen after flowing through a great extent of level country and receiving no tributary – might at length lose its lofty banks – and broad channel – The course of the stream on which we had now encamped was very winding – There was no rock – all about it was soft earth – I sent Mr. White up the river with a view to ascertain its course [indecipherable] – and a man of the party [indecipherable] down its bank to see whether we were near the junction its junction either with the main river or the Nammoy – but the stream was found to be nothing change was observed in either direction –
On the banks of this stream we found a species of small cucumbers which grew to about the size of a small plum it was bitter , but in flavour in flavour similar to like a cucumber the flower being similar – and also the other parts of the plant – only much smaller X

[X insert from opposite page] "The spiders here are of a singular form – having a strong hard shelly coat like enamel – dark blue spotted with symmetrically spotted with white - the whole being nearly circular with six sharp points projecting which with the head – give the appearance of an enamelled cross or order"

The Lat. was 29 ° 28’ 34".

Thursday 19th January
– Set off at ½ past 6 & continued a course of 20 ° South of West – for eleven miles – for the first two or three we just cleared some Southern bends of the stream – at 5 miles we heard the natives in the woods – After travelling eleven miles – the country sloping gradually to the North West – I changed to North and

[from top of opposite page]

18 Jany – Course North West
at 7 miles – turn to 7 ° W of N – the acacia scrub being in the way – at 7 ½ resumed a NW Course –
- 10 with scrub – appty. on Kindur in part changed to West 7 ° North
-13 – having had the scrub on my right the whole way & keeping on open ground – I now changed to 29 ° N of West –
13 ½ changed to 322 ° -
at 15 made a small branch of the Kindur –
Lat. Camp 18, Jany – On Kindur branch – 29 ° 28’. 34 " -

[Page 68]
and at 1 mile in this direction – again reached the same stream – its reappearance so much to the South of West and still [indecipherable] and steady [indecipherable] made it too probable that this was all that remained of the Kindur. I sent Mr White due North to ascertain if there existed any other channel but he found the ground to rise gradually on the other side and no appearance of any other river – Found the latitude of the camp to be 29 ° 31’. 49". –

Friday 20th January
When every thing was packed up and the drays & packhorses loaded it was found necessary to wait until one missing bullock was found – this occasioned a delay of some hours – during which I reconsidered well the maps I had with me; and it occurred to me that the insignificant stream I was about to follow most unwillingly in its course to the South of West – could not be the channel of the great Coast mountain basin – and that if it was, it probably joined the Darling after entering the Nammoy; whereas in such a case there was still room for the accumulation of the coast range interior waters in a basin altogether Northward of this – and separated probably from it only by low hills – as shewn by Cunningham to the Westward of the Burrel Ponds when he said he country declining gradually towards Shoal Bay – I had always considered the latitude of 28 ° as the probable situation of such a concentration of the streams falling to the interior from that range – and I now thought

[Page 69]
it necessary incumbent on me to explore the country from the North and – I therefore determined on leaving the drays & most of the cattle, (which were much fatigued) here with half of the party in Mr Whites charge, and to proceed Northward with the others & some pack animals in order to ascertain if possible, whether any such rivers existed – It was 2 o’clock before the stray bullock was found and I passed the remainder of the day completing a drawing and preparing for the excursion Northward, - This river I was about to cross had a very peculiar character – its banks of soft earth sloping to the water – were marked with lines shewing the different heights at which it had been for some time stationary; its breadth was trifling, but tolerably equal save at the bends where it was generally broad and deeper – its depth considerable in proportion to its width – and its water of a white clay colour – the current however was steady - and it was impossible to doubt that these waters had travelled far – I had descended one of its banks - miles without crossing any tributary to it – for the different chains of stagnant ponds could only make additions in times of high floods – Small as this river seemed here – the ground for half a mile from its banks was broken & furrowed into hollows like channels which were the more remarkable as the surface was every where else so [indecipherable] that the appearance of any such hollows appearing in any part were evidence & certain indications of water being near –

[Page 70]
Saturday 21st January
– Some time elapsed in adjusting the packsaddles – balancing the loads &c and the bed of the river was so soft at the only place near the camp where it was acceptable to cattle, that it was necessary to carry over the loading, and load the pack animals on the opposite bank – At length we started a little before 10 o’clock – and I proceeded on the meridian of the depot camp – We soon saw an Emu – and afterwards a flock of seven or eight - The country was open forest and gradually opened into small plains – the ground seemed to rise in the first mile – then to slope Northward towards a wooded flat where I expected to find some water – but it was all flat – soon after we passed through a narrow strip of swamp Oak scrub – near this in the flat were the remains of native huts X

[X from the opposite page ] "and at the Foot of a tree by itself in some open forest were the remains of a fire – and a spear remained against the tree" –

beyond the scrub was a beautiful [indecipherable] of plain: the grass like young wheat in colour the trees sprinkled very ornamentally – We rode by another gentle slope – and entered a brush of Acacia Pendula which here grew in greater abundance and larger than I had seen it elsewhere – The day became very hot after twelve, - no water appeared however and we encamped at 2 o’clock – one of the men having fallen down ill, - and there being wooded hollows all about, in some of which I expected to find water None however, was found and one of the party whom I had sent down one hollow in search of it, did not return which [indecipherable] added to my anxiety at this [indecipherable] – the Latitude

[from top of opposite page] "Lat, 29.20.54 – "

[Page 71]
of which I found to be 29.23.64 so that we had travelled about 9 ½ miles – and as the trees were marked from the depot – I concluded the man who had lost his way would at least [indecipherable] the remaining food there and either follow us or return to the depot – the last alternative was likely to prove very inconvenient however to this party – as he had carried the tea kettle with him – and was a most efficient hand --------X
[X from the top of opposite page] " near sunset a black swan was observed winging its way from the NE towards the South West from the North East and many smaller birds appeared to come from the same quarter – The inspired writer could not have wished for "the wings of a dove" more ardently, than I wished for the prospect the swan at that moment commanded; - for so large an aquatic bird was rather an interesting sight in a situation where the party could find no water – after a long journey in an oppressively hot day"

Friday 22d January
– Morning clear – a pleasant breeze from the N.E. We moved off about 6 oclock the undulations of the country we passed over was very gently undulating were scarcely perceptible – the wood was disposed chiefly in narrow strips shutting in plains - covered with good grass – the slopes though slight having wood in the lowest parts – protracted my hopes of finding some hollow with water from one to another; until the prospect of finding it [indecipherable] - I began to consider the matter very hopeless – I was however determined to try the result of as long a journey as could be accomplished this day – and in the event of not falling in with water at last to give the little we had remaining in one of the crates to the animals and retrace our steps during the night and the cool part of the following day so as to regain if possible the depot camp – next night and thus we were likely to be [indecipherable] a much greater degree under the mortification of failure & disappointment to those fatigues we had already experienced cheerfully undergone while stimulated with hopes of ultimate success, never such unpleasant circumstances, it was painful to look round on my thirsty party still toiling after me – burning with heat and thirst; [indecipherable] marks of the natives about the

[Page 72]
trees – the remains of their huts – or the prints of their feet were now no longer regarded as marking the presence of the enemy, but eagerly looked for as indicating that water was to be found near:- but these footmarks were deeply imprinted in clay – then as hard as brick, and it was evident that when they were made water had lodged in every hollow from recent rains – at 5 miles we entered a wood of pine trees, first we had seen since we left the Nammoy beyond it however the country did not change, and we soon met a thick wood of Acacia Pendula – we also passed through several patches of swamp oaks – On entering one, the ground seemed to form a slight hollow to my right – I halted the party & followed it down – about a mile – when I perceived the remains of drift grass deposited so as to mark that water did fall in that direction – my horse usually inclined to return to the other horses now pulled hard on the rain as if to cross a slight ridge on my left – I rode that way allowed him to take his own way – and we instantly came in sight of the green bank of some find sheets of water in what appeared from the nature of the ground to be at times the bed of a considerable river – I galloped back and, without altering the marked line from due North, conducted the party onwards to the water side – where we encamped. Thus at once our distressing want of water was relieved – the cattle luXuriated in the richest verdure – I had a new point where to proceed first

[Page 73]
into the unexplored country – and on which I could fall back – if again distressed in a similar manner for want of water – The ponds were large wide – deep and full – close to each other, with grassy intervals somewhat like [indecipherable] – but there were proofs that a considerable body current of water sometimes covered the whole – there were drifted trees & [indecipherable] high on the banks of some of the channels and several [indecipherable] worked very neatly by the natives, for ensnaring fish, stood on ground now quite dry and hard, - Lower down the ground was much more broken – there seemed several channels and these so winding and deep – with enormous flooded gum trees – that I supposed the Nammoy or some large river – could not be distant – I did not examine it lower at this time as it was necessary to keep my horses & men fresh for the excursion Northward – there were no rocks to be seen – the banks however deeply cut shewed earth only – one fine specimen of a hard conglomerate was found – consisting of rounded pebbles of quartz & and one or two flints in a red matrix like jasper – Found the Latitude to be 29 °. 9’.51" –

Monday 23rd January
– Left the ground at ½ past 5 – crossed the line of ponds, and on the opposite side of the river which formed the right bank we came upon a more regular channel of a broad river – in the bed of which however – then – were only large ponds – the banks on each side – were steep and had a permanent appearance, the average width was upwards of 100 feet 50 yards – the bottom consisted of quicksands between the ponds – by no means

[from the opposite page] 23 Jany
On crossing the hill – the channel of a river very broad lay before us – at 6 miles the wood changed to large swamp oaks – the ground forming vallies – falling to the Eastwd. In one of these we saw a large Kangaroo the first we had seen since we left the upper Kindur

23d. Wind NE. 9hr at 12.90 Sky [indecipherable] cumulus) at 4 – 89° sky [indecipherable] with rain [indecipherable] wind North – at 10 – 77 ° - cloudy with wind

24 – Th. at 6 A.M. 76° - Wind No – Sky [indecipherable] Nimbus) at 12 – Th 77 ° Sky Nimbus - & Calm – at 4 – Th 73 ° Do. Do. showery

[Page 74]

means safe – for loaded animals without great care as to the crossing place selected – The wood beyond consisted chiefly of swamp oak – then we passed one or two scrubs of dwarf gum trees – and some cypress were seen [what we have hitherto called pine] At 6 miles the face of the country assumed a grander aspect – from the magnitude of the swamp oaks which formed umbrageous masses – enclosing green grassy dells spots – which appeared in dells at some distance Eastward – in which direction the ground seemed to fall -; In one of these large Kangaroo was seen the first observed since we left the banks of the upper Kindur – on the plains and all across the low ground we had traversed between the Lagoon of McNivin’s ponds; the absence of this animal was remarkable it was chiefly in forests or hilly ground – or ground not quite flat that we had seen most Kangaroo – thus it would appear that they do not affect lands subject to flood –

At eight miles we reached the bank of a river the largest we had yet seen running with considerable current to the Westward, - its course was so tortuous that no idea could be obtained of its general direction, of its course however as it was very tortuous There [indecipherable] appearance The [indecipherable] was of a whitish mud colour white and muddy the depth and in most parts deep , so that what with

[Page 75]
with the steepness of the banks (which was of a changed character) and the softness of the earth near the water edge, (in which my horse sank to the saddle flaps – it was difficult to find a practicable ford – One, at length, was found, where my horse was with some risk got across, and, the whole party might indeed have passed – the day was cool & favorable for travelling and the whole were in excellent trim for an excursion as far as the Southern Tropic – The country before us was quite unknown every step was [indecipherable] This river however nearly in the latitude in which a concentration of the waters on the interior side of the Coast Range might be expected – it appeared navigable – for boats and it was impossible to say, without exploring it what was the direction of its course. – It was evident that if it joined the Nammoy and the stream I had taken for the Kindur – that a greater river would be formed than there was any probability of finding further Northward – The whole might join the Darling – or they might have a separate course from both that river and the Nammoy, I therefore determined, to explore the course of this river and make a boat as soon as possible – and explore the course of this river – as the result was likely to determine at all events whether the waters of this basin had any outlet to the Northward, or not. I immediately set the carpenters to work to construct a sawpit – and directed three of the men to return with the bullocks to Mr Wright – that he might proceed to join me with the drays – and all that remained with him on the Kindur -

[Page 76]
Tuesday 24th January
– The men and bullocks left the camp early in the morning on their way to Mr. White X
[X from opposite page] "I sent with them enclosed in my letter to Mr White – one addressed to Mr. Finch which I requested Mr. White to affix in a tree with certain marks" -

the party remaining with me on the river was now reduced to four – two carpenters – a sawyers man and my own servant – we had four muskets besides a double barrel and a rifle and therefore we felt still strong enough for the natives.

The morning was cool & cloudy – most refreshing after so much heat – at 9 it rained –

In this river we caught abundance of cod; but indeed every hole which had supplied us with water during the journey afforded us fish of some sort – these were generally small and either of the cod or Jew fish species – the Jew fish is that with the thorns in its fins, having a body & tail fins like short eel – and a double belly – (see drawing of that caught in the Lagoon at Tangulda) – In the river on which we now were some of these were also caught – but chiefly cod. – The cool temperature andx during very great heat – The ---probable course of the river was less a subject of hope than of apprehension – for the Darling as discovered by Capt Sturt appeared to be merely a prolongation of this river, and I was still nearer to the supposed outlet of that river in Bass’s Straits, than to any part of the Northern Coast of Australia – I had lost all confidence in Barber’s statement, and my own theory of the Coast mountain basin admitted as readily of an outlet of its waters to the Southward as to the Northward – On the other hand I was one degree to the Northward of where Captn Sturt had traced the Castlereagh into the Darling and no mountain or hills or rising ground were perceptible to the Northward or Westward which could give any such remarkable turn Southward, to the river I was now

[from opposite page] "25Jany – Thrm – at 6 – 70 ° Calur Nimbus at at 9 – Wind S.W. 12 -76° - Fair – at 4 – 82 – sunshine

26 Jany – Thm at 6 – 64° - Wind S. fine breeze Clear – Sky – Cirrocumuli –at 12 – 86 ° - clear – fine breeze –

27 Jany – Thm at 6 – 70° - Wind S. Breeze -Mackarel Sky – Cirrocumuli
at 12. 83° – Sky clear –"

[Page 77]
upon, -

Wednesday 25 January
– Calm and cloudy – weather continued – this day - we laid down the keel & principal timbers of a new boat intended to carry every thing – there was no pine at hand, therefore we used flooded gum – the moist weather has rendered the earth soft and clammy – and I was apprehensive that the state of the ground might impede the drays – In the afternoon the sky began to draw up so that at night some of the principal stars were visible and I ascertained the latitude to be 29 ° .2’. –

[X from the opposite page] "I occupied myself drawing insects, and in the afternoon I fished and caught the largest cod we had as yet found in this river" –
By 10 o’clock the sky had become quite clear.

Thursday 26th January
– A very clear morning , with a fine breeze – the thermtr. which had ranged from 90 to 108 following the two last months stood now at 64 deg; - only – the air was most refreshing, and the delays of boat making during weather so favourable for travelling rather irksome – The river had risen a quarter of an inch, - One of the men on going early in the morning to the river was alarmed by an animal bellowing something like an ox and making a tremendous plunge into the water – and two others who were sawing near it – had on another occasion heard an immense plunge – I could scarcely think this river large enough for the hippopotamus but these [indecipherable] corroborated Barber’s statement, and made it more probable – X

[X from opposite page] "In the afternoon I caught 3 cod, 1 – large fish with strong scales [indecipherable] and one Jew fish – In all these rivers there appeared to be four kinds of fish first – The Cod – next the Jew fish – then a very firm coarse fish with strong scales named a bream – by the men and weighing about 4 lbs – (this fish groaned when in the hook) – fourthly – a fish never larger than a small perch and named a perch by the men – but being much thinner in the body – and having silvery scales – all these fish have thorny fins – and there is no great difference - either in the number or situation of their fins – "

In the evening the sky was cloudy, the wind cold and stormy – at 10 I was called out of my tent to look at a fire – thick which appeared through the trees to the NE of us – but by the time I got to the spot it was gone – We had seen no natives here – but their habit of carrying a stick at night is well known – and this was in the direction of our hoses and saw pit – at this time we were not strong enough to keep a watch – and contrary to my orders – the men had brought no dogs so we could only lie down & trust to providence –

Friday 27, January
– The clear cool weather continued – and I ascended a tall tree to look at the surrounding horizon which was as level as the sea – this was only, however, the horizon of the trees – but it seemed that two or three yards more would clear these and give a view

[Page 78]
of one more distant – and I accordingly directed a straight tree to be cut and lashed to the upper part of this, ^

[ ^ from the opposite page] "The natives appeared ten or twelve in number on the opposite bank of the river – at the time our men saw them, they had not noticed us although our horses grazing on the bank were snorting and starting at them – as they suddenly disappeared it cannot be doubted that they had at length seen us, and fled as usual"

This morning about a dozen eggs – white & about the size of those of a blackbirds were found in the sand near the river bank and brought me by one of the men as the eggs of a crocodile! – they contained each a very perfectly formed reptile of the lacorta species, and I considered them the eggs of a goanna or lizard – certainly we had not yet got to the region of crocodiles, - Several curious insects were observed about the river; This morning my attention was attracted by a buzz almost as loud & deep as the growl of a dog – when I perceived an insect about as large as a bird approach the river bank carrying with it something like a grasshopper, it alighted on the steep sandy sloping bank, and immediately entered a hole – no noise or beating I made outside disturbed it – but after digging some way down it suddenly rose from the dust, and escaped – On digging further – the insect similar to what it carried was found and on turning up more sand – seven or eight more – these somewhat resembled a grasshopper in colour, but appeared to be young insects of the same kind as the larger one – they had a very long tail and antenae at least two inches in length – A very handsome fly of bluish or greenish gold colour sometimes entered my tent – and on the sand a curious kind of fly or wasp – was seen which like the very large insect occasionally vanished in the sand (see Drawing) – this day the river fell nearly an inch –

Saturday 28, January
– This morning Mr White arrived with the drays and the whole party arrived about ten o’clock, without having met with any accidents in crossing the river – The man whom we lost in the night we were without water came also with them, - he stated that he had fallen in with the blacks on going about six miles from the camp and that they detained him one day & two nights until he escaped early while they were asleep - &c &c – I did not believe

[from the opposite page] "28 Jany – Thm at 6 – 67° Wind NE strong – sky clear –
12. 87 ° - - - clear

Commenced drawings of Insects 24 Jany. Natural Size.
No. 1 - bug – found about the bark of a tee tree cut for timbering the boat –
2. – The spider of this country, which is covered with a hard coat like enamel of blue colour with white specks – and armed with four sharp points – the web is spun as usual between boughs – or bushes -
3. [indecipherable] beetle from the Nammoy –
4. – A very beautiful fly, the drawing gives no idea of its splendid colour which is greenish gold – varying to a rich blue – its buzz is very musical – having several notes – so as to resemble distant music or that of an Eolian harp – it was an occasional visitor at my tent.
5. – A fly something seen about soft sand banks – it flys low and suddenly remains stationary in the air for a few seconds – sometimes alights and then frequently throws up the sand so as to make it stream in a little current behind it – it then dissappears in the sand – the proboscis is very hard and prominent terminating in a point somewhat resembling the beak of a bird - and [indecipherable] the roof of this on the front of the head is a hard white nob – like enamel –

[Page 79]
one word of his story – as the whole had been anticipated before his arrival – what he had to do with me was rather laborious where it was supposed by him that Mr. Whites party would remain inactive for several weeks – he had therefore found his way back with this story – leaving me in anxiety about his safety – and at a loss for hands – X

[X from the opposite page] " Mr White crossed the river an examined the country in a Northerly direction for several miles in search of pine for the boat but without success – at about three miles he came upon a chain of large lagoons – extending in a Westerly direction – and the drift in the trees showed that there was a considerable current to the Westward during floods and that these rose ten or twelve feet about the surface of the lagoons – One Kangaroo was seen there –"

This afternoon the mast was got up on the tree [large space]
Sunday 29th January – This morning the drays were sent back about 13 miles

[line drawn to this comment to the opposite and this inserted " From this day I reduced the mens ration of pork from 3 ½ lbs to 2 lbs per week – and told them there were plenty of fish in the river – and gave each a hook and line – they were tolerably successful in fishing, - The only starving objects about the party were our unfortunate dogs – Kangaroo were now scarcely to be seen – neither were there bandicoots – and the men being on a reduced ration of flour – which it might become necessary to reduce still more I could not give any to the dogs – we shot some hawks - & crows & boiled these into a mess which they eat and thus we kept the wretched animals alive"]
for pine to make planking for the boat, none having been discovered nearer, - One of the men who had gone early in the morning to look for the bullocks had not returned by one o’clock – and as he was a good bushman it was feared that the natives had detained or killed him. I therefore set out with four armed men, and scoured the woods within five miles of the camp without falling in with any marks of natives or with the man - but on returning at sunset, I found he had arrived safe about an hour before – this day the river had fallen nearly another inch –

Monday 30th January
– The river still subsiding – this morning the dray returned with some fine timber for the boat – a stock yard was afterwards erected for the bullocks on the highest ground – No fish could be caught in the river today – and it was supposed that the blacks were taking the fish higher up – and lower down, the mode they adopt being likely to intercept all – we had in various parts of other streams seen the osier netting they put up across the currents for this purpose – and the neatness of some on the lower Kindur was very remarkable – the frames were well squared as if with an aXe – and into these twigs were inserted and crossed at very regular intervals, so as to form admirable net work – the

[Page 80]
whole forming a most effectual snare for the fish – for a small opening was left in the middle, to which they probably apply some sort of bag of netting, while others get into the river above and drive the fish before them – downwards –

Tuesday 31st January
– Sky overcast – the men caught an abundant supply of fish this morning – A small black bitch supposed to be of the native dog kind made its appearance about the camp - and it was run down & killed by our dogs – from its miserable mangey appearance it then occurred to me that this was one of the dogs which the natives generally have about them – and regretted much that it had been killed – that nothing might remain of it we burnt the body – The bottom of the boat was completed planked this day –

Wednesday 1st Feby
– the night had been calm & close - just before daybreak – distant thunder resembling discharges of artillery was heard in the South West – the sun rose clear – but was soon obscured by clouds & the wind arose from the North East – I sent Mr. White with a party of men down the river who were to clear away – any trees which might obstruct the boat – Mr White on his return brought reported that some way lower down than when I made it – the river was very full of trees of considerable size – and that there was also a fall of considerable length on a rocky bottom – this unpleasant intelligence determined me to explore the course of this river by land so far as to be assured that it did not join the Darling – as, although it might have been as well to have determined his question also with the boat – as the cattle were fatigued, had the river been clear – it was a different matter where the obstruction in it – rendered the navigation a work of so much more labour –

[from the top of the opposite page – this seems to be a continuation of his list of drawings on page 78]

6. Large hornet or wasp – rather numerous about this river, - it has a dissagreable smell – the dark coloured hoop – round the lower half of the body is a hard coat or shell – within which the tail part is usually drawn up and protected by it – There are two [indecipherable] jet black spots like eyes in the back behind the wings – this seems the largest of the wasp tribe – and it carries a sting about a quarter of an inch in length.

2d Feby. 2 ½ hours at 22 S of W made river [indecipherable] over a fall of [indecipherable] 30 E of S
(1/2 [indecipherable])
(at 1 -) 1 ½ hours more at S. 10 W – made river again
at 1.50. same bearing crossed the junction of a chain of ponds coming from E.5.S.-
2.30 – 30 E of S. cross the ponds of 8 mile camp – coming from E 30 N – going the [indecipherable] & S abt a mile
(at 70 m to 3) then – SW. a mile – then W to S – down a flat ¾ wide then West one mile to the river thus
arrived at 5 m. [indecipherable] 4.

[Here a sketch of the river in relation to the camp]
Lat. Camp – 2d. Feby – 29 °.12’. 3" -

[Page 81]
Thursday 2d. Feby
– Left the camp with six men and four pack animals with nine days rations – and proceeded down the left bank of the newly discovered river – which to my great dissappointment – took such a southerly course – that I had little hope of its keeping clear of the Darling, - the river also separated into branches, and was besides crossed in nearby` plains by large trees reaching from bank to bank – After passing close to several South bends – on a bearing of 20 S of West – [from the opposite page "Variation 7 ½ "] at 7 ½ miles came at nearly right angles on the river at a waterfall or cascade – the rock over which the water breaks – consists entirely of litaniferous iron ore – with veins of a soft white clay every where interspersed – the ironstone has [indecipherable] the appearance of calcination; these rocks crop out something like strata declining to the North east – Before we made the river here, we descended a considerable slope of the ground – At 4 ½ miles more bearing S. 10 W. made the river again after crossing a small plain & passing through a tea tree scrub -: here the current was scarcely discernable – At 2 miles further on the same bearing crossed the junction of a chain of ponds – and at 2 miles further on a bearing of 30 E of South – I crossed a chain of ponds which appeared to be those on which I encamped on 22d. January – the distance in wh. they came round, although I could not see it far to be from E. 30. N. from this I proceeded S. 1 mile – SW. 1 mile W. 10 S. ¾ of a mile (down a flat) then W. 1 mile to the river – which I reached at 4 o’clock and encamped on a high point overlooking it – with good grass for the cattle – Latitude 29 °. 12’.3" –
Friday 3rd February – Left the encampment at 7 o’clock and endeavoured to keep 30 ° West of South, but the river soon compelled me to go South and this course chiefly I followed for about 17 miles – occasionally taking slight turns towards the left

[notes from the opposite page] 3d. Feby- Course S.30 W – at 2 ½ miles – lagoon on left – change to South – 3 - < [indecipherable] River on right & ascend high bank

at ½ p 10 [indecipherable] 10 miles – large pond & hollow on right
at 12 say 13 miles – a large lagoon extending round to NE [indecipherable] NE
[sketch of this part of river]
¼ past one say 15 miles at South after [indecipherable] Ewd. the [indecipherable] of the lagoon – came upon a broad lagoon extending E. & W –

2 oClock say 15 miles . Came upon a plain & changed from S to SW – along its most elongated direction –

Entered wood again at 1 mile ( attacked by hornets & stung) and changed to West – at ½ mile came on the bank of a noble lagoon – extending North & South, apparently the ancient bed of a river – its breadth being about 100 yards of water quite free from trees - & with sloping banks [indecipherable] to the water – edge - this lagoon realized the idea I had formed of the Kindur – and although I could scarcely hope still I could not but wish that the united rivers would form such a breadth of water – then indeed might our boat be floated to some purpose – kept the bank of this lagoon in a SE & S direction & encamped [indecipherable] & another like it at 3 oclock
Lat. Sd. 29.27.27

[Page 82]
to avoid occasional bends of the river or hollows containing lagoons one of these at 13 miles – was rather extensive – it was contracted at one part by a conglomerate rock – of which the matrix in parts appeared by itself – and looked like pipe clay in parts and yet within it broke with a glossy flinty fracture and seemed very hard – ironstone seemed to abound in it – and the whole appeared to have undergone the action of fire – [X]
[X from the opposite page] " As I stood on a bank – overlooking another lagoon on foot taking bearings – my attention was attracted to the ground from a singular sound made by the iron scabb.d of my sabre – and a rubbing against my heels – when I found it was enormous snake passing me slowly by me like a winding its twisting body – thick as a cable – slowly past me – it was evidently a harmless one – for I must he alighted if not upon it, at least close by it – it soon dissappeared in a hole in the earth –"

at 17 miles we entered a plain with some trees of acacia pendula – the whole having somewhat the character of the lower Kindur country – I took a S.W. course in which direction the plain was also most elongated on entering the wood on the other side passing a hornets nest in a tree – I was suddenly attacked before I was aware and stung severely by one of these formidable insects – I changed to West on entering the wood – and soon after came on the bank of a magnificent sheet of water which extended like a noble river – (such as I had hoped the Kindur would have been ) in a N. and S. direction – I followed the Eastern and of this turning with it East & again South until I reached the termination of the lagoon – at some rocks – Two hundred yards South however another began . The interval being rocky – apparently washed here, when this was the channel of a river – the height of the banks sufficiently indicating that they once confined a considerable stream – The rock was a conglomerate of iron pebbles about the size of sparrows eggs chiefly quartz but there is also others of red jasper – and of basalt – they were cemented by a white or yellowish substance – of great hardness – but others parts had softened with the weather – so that there was a gravel about the rocks – formed by the detached pebbles -. The whole seemed to me a [indecipherable] thrown up from

[notes from the opposite page] " 4th Feby – Started at 7 – course South – obliged to turn East for a bend of the lagoon – (8¾ hours) - Then at 4 miles made Mr Whites creek –
9 ¾ hours – W.20 N. 2 ¼ miles – the Main River – the White’s creek taking many bends so as to oblige me to go far to the N of West

[sketch of river bends] At 11 set off on my way back keeping North – at ½ p. 11 made the S end of a long line of lagoons –
At 12 crossed them Nd. – which taking an Easterly direction – The bed & East bank consisting of Conglomerate Rk. –

12 Ock – Proceed W 20, E –
12 ½ Came on a fine oval Lagoon on left ( w [indecipherable]) & change course to North –
at 1 – make the River bank [sketches showing shape of river ]
1 ¼ - Make another part with a [indecipherable] stretching in a straight direction N. [indecipherable] for upwards of a mile –
3 ¾ Encamped in a little chain of ponds [indecipherable] 1 ½ miles"

[Page 83]
below for there was no appearance of stratification [X]
[from the opposite page] " and it was evidently this rock which bounded on the [indecipherable] basin of the Kindur and broke the monotonous flat through which the river might have taken a different course or formed a lake – Between these two lagoons I encamped for the night – in at, -29 °. 27’ 29’

[note from opposite page]
Bg N. 36 E old camp ½ m left at 10 miles –
Cross 1 ponds – at – 14 –
2.d at --------------

Saturday 4th Feby – Proceeded on the journey at 7 oclock – The second lagoon extended round very much to the Eastward – so that it was necessary to deviate some way to the left from my intended course of South – in order to get around this lagoon, the hollow or old channel – at length turned southward where the water terminated, and, I proceeded also South – through Forest Oaks – small plains - & burnt flats [<>]
[<> from opposite page] "In one of the brushes we saw two small Kangaroo – the only ones we had seen about this part of the country – Emus – however are numerous – but very wild Pelican also - about near the lagoons – and maybe approached very near – a gun does not alarm them - on a ball passing them however near – they only rise from the ground and alight again – The natives kill them for we found their bones about some of their fires – "

At length the ground began to slope considerably towards the South – and at about 4 miles from where I made the river Gwydir or Kindur on which I had been encamped – before I discovered that on a side I had now left Mr. White – the course was as tortuous as ever but the stream was considerably reduced – so much as that in shallow plains – where alone the current was perceptible – I could with ease have stepped over it – in short this could make no addition of the least consequence to the river I had turned downwards – and in quest of which I now turned Westward in hopes to find it enlarged by other rivers which might have joined it from the North – its general course as far as I had [indecipherable] it to that side, - The tortuous windings of the Gwydir in its course West obliged me often to turn East – but at about 2 ½ miles N 25, E from where I made this river – I at length reached the other – Here indeed it looked a noble stream – as broad as the Thames – a volume of water quite independent of fallen timber [X]
[X from the opposite page] " A curious diving bird which swims with its head only above water floated in considerable numbers on the goodly waves – and the sight of such a spacious body of water was most refreshing after our – long & fruitless search - in what we had more than once experienced even the utter want of this element when excessive heat & thirst had taught us its full value – "

I could not however perceive much current , and I followed the river downwards about two miles eagerly hoping that the breadth & magnitude might be found [indecipherable] but this unfortunately ceased at a waterfall – where the river was traversed by another mass or dyke of rock similar to these I had seen higher up – the body of water falling over the rocks

[Page 84]
did not appear greater than it was at the depot, and below the fall the river & its banks were not in point of magnitude – at all different from what they were there – The meanderings of the Gwydir terminated in this river a little below the fall, and I could not perceive that the course of the main river was much affected by the junction –

The general course of this river appearing to be nearly South – from a few [indecipherable] miles below our depot, I could no longer entertain hopes that it would not join the Darling – indeed this appeared to be the same river – its general course being in prolongation of that river as laid down by Capt Sturt – Throughout that part of its course which I had explored – there was a succession of falls – over rocks which traversed it in a North Westerly direction, shewing that ----the country to the Northward which had been represented by former travellers – as presenting an extensive expanse of level country declining to the North West was not so flat as not to afford a boundary on that side to the basin of this river – Three degrees about due East from where I had made it – Mr. Cunningham in his two excursions toward Moreton Bay crossed a considerable river flowing Westward which he named The Dumeresque. The bed of this river was there elevated according to his map sloped above the sea – but as he proceeded in a N.E, direction towards the 28th degree of Latitude (this being nearly under the 29th) he found that the first water courses took a similar direction Westward and were even lower than the river where he crossed it – but he soon reached ponds of water upwards of 1000 feet above the sea – and after crossing some steep hills – streams whose course was to the NW and WNW – banks of which were as high as 1500 – and 1700 feet above the sea – while near the

[from the opposite page] " 5 Feby – moved off at 7 – on bearing N36 E –
at 7 ¾ cross a sandy tract with pine forest
8 – Cross a chain of ponds – from 8-9 – Plain
10 extensive plain on right –
11 ¼ - Cross a heavy sand hill. Pine forest on right
11 ½ Came on the dray track –
12.50 – reach the Ponds – say – 4 miles from where I made the track -!

(6th Feby – Left the ponds at 7 – and arrived at the camp at 9 –
(N, 13 – The camp is at least 1 ½ miles further N – than the point were I first (made the river –
(Launched the boat Mr F. arrives
Tuesday 7 Feby – moved to Ponds –
Wedy 8 – Feby - moved to Gwydir R –
Thdy – 9 – Halted there to repair wheels – (natives -)

[Page 85]
28th degree of Latitude he crossed Condamine River – the bed of which was only 1400 above the Sea while its course was about N.W. by North – it is therefore evident that between the bed of the Dumeresque and the Condamine – he crossed some very high ground twice as high above the sea – as the bed of the former river – and that the waters nearest that river took a direction parallel to it, while those on the Northern side fell to the N.West – If the general slope of the country was to the Northwest – or, which is the same thing, - if the ground rose to the South East – the limit of that slope was therefore between these rivers and this rising ground must therefore be considered to separate the basins in which they originate and take their course- This appears more certain as the ridge is precisely in the line of the greatest elongation of New Holland which extends betwn. Cape Byron & [indecipherable] Island and may be looked for at an equal distance laterally from its Northern & Southern shores – The Southern basin is that of the Darling Dumeresque or Tindor which is the native name – as we understood the natives this river receiving the streams of the Gwyder Peel’s River – Nammoy – Castlereagh - & all descending Northward from Liverpool Plains – A river descending to the Northern coast was therefore to be looked for further Northward and as the great division of the waters of New Holland, as abovementioned, must form with the Coast mountains to the Northward of it an acute angle embracing the Gulph of Carpentaria – it can hardly be doubted that this extensive basin – bounded on the N.E – In 600 miles by mountains at least equal to those which produce all the interior rivers known – must enclose a very considerable body of waters descending towards the Northern

[Page 86]
Coast of New Holland – having already sufficiently for my conviction identified the rivers I had been tracing to the Darling – I now therefore resolved to extend my excursion about two degrees further Northward – along a line in prolongation of the general direction of my march from Liverpool range – it appearing probable – that much within that distance I should not only cross the ridge dividing the waters – but also intercept some of the first streams falling to the Northward – With this intention I returned on my way to rejoin Mr White with the party – encamping for the night – on some ponds near the river. – [X]
[X from the opposite page] "Owls were numerous and as we crossed the country between these rivers – I observed two of a very small kind not much larger than a thrush – the peculiar shape of the head and eyes on a bird of that size – the plumage being also dark & unlike that of an owl, gave them a very singular appearance – I regretted that I could not obtain one at that time. –"

As we approached the spot we saw much smoke of the natives fires whc wd not be far distant – but none appeared to us – This was the more remarkable as near these rivers marks of their presence were often visible on the trees – and their fresh footmarks by the waterside – Yet the last I had seen was [indecipherable] who a month before had poised his spear at me on the Gwyder.

Sunday 5th February
– moved off at 7 - [indecipherable] on a bearing N36 E and made the line of marked trees about 12 miles from the camp – where I had left Mr White – with the party – As the day was hot, I halted at the ponds where we had formerly encamped round this place – there were also burning small fires – and their tame native dogs hung about our camp –

Monday 6th February
– Left the ponds at 7 – and arrived at the camp at 9 o’clock – I found that the blacks had at length appeared there during my absense – they at first appeared on the opposite bank in number about 7 – looking at one of the party fishing They approached and made all sorts of friendly gestures – at length they were prevailed on to cross the river – they came

[From top of opposite page] "9 Feby – Plants collected – No. 1 – From country between the Ponds and the Gwyder – lightly wooded
2 to 9 – alluvial soil – subject to inundation on the banks of the Gwyder 700ft above the Sea –
10 & 11 – Do.
12 to 16 – From the flat country on the left bank of the Gwyder –
17 – all that could be preserved for the intense heat of a wild cucumber – abt the size of a large acorn – which grew – on the alluv,l. soil – on the bank of the Gwydir
11th Feby – 18 Flower of the shrub bearing small pear shaped fruit with small birds [indecipherable] also a plant found on the open plains

[Page 87]
without arms – and sat down a considerable time making our men [indecipherable] and laughing very much at all they saw – At length the sun being hot they made signs that they wished to remove under the shade of a tree – and then moved and sat down there – at length they came about the tents – They had no spears – and willingly presented the few clubs – and wamarras they had to our men – not a word was understood however - they none of the names of Barber seemed at all intelligible to them – but Mr White obtained the names of various parts of the body which proved their language to be much the same as that of the natives at Wallamoul on Peel’s River – the only difference was the addition of ma - to each name – for instance mil – the eye was ma mil - & the addition being probably the article – They were much disposed to steal – Mr White observed one purloin a tea-cup and secrete it cleverly in his kangaroo cloak – another had nearly got holding it off the carpenter’s axe – They looked rather foolish on being obliged to give up what they took hold of – They seemed to pay much attention to the numbers of the party – and explained, by pointing in the direction I had gone, and counting seven fingers that they had seen my party – go down the river – They did not know the use of bread – but they well understood the purpose what the boat was for – and when asked for Callide’ (a general name for the sea) was repeated pronounced to them, they pointed in the direction of Moreton Bay – repeating very frequently the word Wallingall – X

[X from the opposite page] " one man had hair & features very different from the others – the hair being parted on the forehead and hanging down quite straight – a sailor of our party said he very much resembled in features a Malay – "

One of the party fired a double barrell gun at the report of which they seemed much terrified – and having soon after gone away making signs that they would again return – and by various gestures

[Page 88]
beckoning to some of our party to cross the river with them it was supposed that they had been frightened at the gun [X]
[X from the opposite page] "I ought also to mention, that a small tomahawk – and an old one belonging to Mr. White were given them – one of them got also completely dressed with old clothes picked up amongst the men"

All this took place on the day before I returned to the camp – This was the news I learnt on my return and being desirous to try whether I could make them understand some questions – I immediately sent two men across the river – as they thought their camp was not far distant – the men returned however with not having seen any natives, - Having, by my late excursion, obviated the necessity for exploring this river with the boat – and also discovered that greater difficulties were opposed to its navigation, than could have been anticipated from it’s appearance where I had first made it even had its course proved favourable – I found that I could now turn the boat now launched the boat as she [indecipherable] constructed as to be to equally available in my further progress Northward - first not only in affording the means of crossing this river but also for crossing – or exploring the course of other – for for she was so constructed to that for by unscrewing small bolts – the two sides, - & the bottom which was flat – could be separated – and carried on a dray and again immediately converted into an efficient & substantial boat in the days - I had just launched her and every thing was packed up for the purpose of crossing the river that evening – when the arrival of Mr. Finch was announced – I ran out to meet him – overjoyed at his opportune arrival especially as I had on the former occasion testified little satisfaction at his joining me for the excursion when he only brought an additional number to encrease my party – without either provisions or equipment – On this occasion

[Page 89]
I had still less reason cause however for being glad – for he brought me the distressing intelligence that two of his men were murdered [indecipherable] that the whole of the supplies he was bringing from the depot me with the cattle and equipment were in the hands of the blacks -, himself and one surviving man alone having found their way on foot to my camp. I had at the time in my rear about 300 miles of country, which about a great part of which bore marks of being frequently under water and the whole of the soil was of such a nature as to become quite impassable for drays after two days rain, - The wheels of the drays (which were old and by no means fit for such a journey on setting out) had fallen so much out of repair under the intense heat – that the carpenter expressed to me his doubts that they would be got back – The natives, emboldened by the catastrophe which befel Mr. Finch were not likely to diminish our troubles – in the event of our being unfortunate under any circumstances – and these considerations, although serious – were still secondary to the non-arrival of these supplies which were necessary to enable me to follow up any discovery X –

[X from the opposite page] "while my party, now on reduced rations, was augmented on Mr Finchs’ arrival by two more - ! Neither could I just after what had happened, leave a depot with any security – as the blacks – had already begun to reconnoitre – a party which was much stronger than any I could have spared to take care of a depot "-

I therefore hesitated to cross the river – and after mature consideration determined to return with as little delay as possible – and leave the further examination of the Northern interior to the pleasure of His Excellency the new Governor – to whom [indecipherable] I considered it my duty under such circumstances to pay my respects – and not protract my absence being without his sanction having already ascertained the waters of Liverpool Plains enter a river flowing Southward – and that they cannot therefore enter or join any river flowing Northward according to the statement of Barber,

[Page 90]
Tuesday 7th February – It was necessary to repair the wheels of the drays before we could move, - The approach of the natives again this morning was indicated by the hovering of miserable looking hawks & crows – and they appeared in some force on the opposite bank – making demonstrations however as before of a desire to communicate with the party – I now entertained felt very differently on that subject from what I did on the previous day before Mr. Finch arrived, and we made no advances on our part – also ordered the largest man we had to carry his musket on his shoulder – and pace gravely back & forward before the tents like a sentry – and in a short time they dissappeared - By 3 o’clock we had repaired the wheels as time allowed – and moved off on our return homewards – reaching the ponds where we encamped exactly at sunset –

Wednesday 8th February
– There being no water between this and the Gwydir – a distance of 27 miles – it was desirable to perform the whole journey in one day – rather than keep that the cattle should pass a night without water – we therefore moved off at ½ past 5 o’clock – and the early part of the morning being rather cool, we got forward very well – after 12 the day was hot at 4 oclock the bush of one of the wheels came out & the dray fell down so that it was necessary to repair it immediately – Mr White returned with the party doing this – and I proceeded forwards with the rest – Mr White & the dray overtook us before the end of the journey – as we approached within six miles of the river we saw smoke on both sides of the road – and finally found the grass on fire – numerous marks of naked feet appeared on our track, at length we heard a cooee, and

[Page 91]
and it was evident that numerous natives were about us – The cattle at length reached the river just after the sun had gone down, - the crossing place was bad but I was extremely anxious to encamp on the other side which was in every respect a better defensive position – if the blacks should approach us which I thought probable - On trying The first dray which was lightest stuck fast in the bed of the river – and the bullocks were two tired to draw it out – The moon was about five days old – and I ordered everything to be carried across by the men – leaving the empty dray only on the other side – to be brought across early in the morning – It was nine o’clock before every thing was got over in this manner – and thus the whole party had been travelling & working without any interval for 16 hours in great heat - and still fasting - without having eat any thing even breakfasted – I directed the bullocks to be watched by a man on a grassy piece of ground close to our camp on the West and enclosed save at one narrow neck by a link of the river – and I was compelled – even in this situation, to make a halt the next day – that the wheels might be strengthened so as to keep together – and serve further. – The bullocks were nevertheless allowed to wander from that spot in the night and were not at hand to bring over the drays in the morning – [^]
[^ from the opposite page] "Thursday 9th Feby".

at 8 o’clock a numerous tribe of natives appeared on the opposite bank – loud and vehement in their voice and gestures – but all with a shew of friendship – the only word they had of ours – was "budgery" – a word used in the talk with the natives in the settled part of the colony signifying good – the whites believing it the natives language that

[Page 92]
natives supposed it to be ours – this word these natives one and all repeated over and over – X

[X insertion from the opposite page] "at that time from recent occurrences it sounded very much to me like "butchery" "

they were handling everything about the empty drays – and several of the men went over – the natives – seemed very complaisent however in handing every thing to our men – and in numbers on the banks - with very loud voices – made signs for me to go over – I made the same sort of gestures to them – The took the attitudes of their corrobory dance – and in every way they could, endeavoured to induce us to cross – at length one of the stoutest came across and met me at the waterside – and I presented him with a small tomahawk three or four others – calling very loudly, then rushed across and, as I understood, either loudly demanded more or told me not to give it to the first – they pointed up to the tents – speaking very loudly -: still they made signs for us to go with them, pronouncing distinctly & repeatedly the word Einer – I immediately got my book – remembering to have heard this word and found that it signified gun – as will be seen on referring to the vocabulary of words I got from the natives at Wallamoul -: When the natives first appeared I had the muskets piled as usual in such cases before my tent – and the men stood in a row between them and the river – fortunately none of the natives ascended the bank towards the tents – as it was not desirable that they should see our exact strength – they did not regard the fire arms as if they knew what they were – and after about an hour – they retired from the opposite bank still however repeating budgery the attitudes of the

[Page 93]
corrobory, and making gestures as if they should return and saying Widungary pointing to the ground – a word which I suspect [indecipherable] to stand – or stop – warey being to stand according to the vocabulary of Wallamoul – [X]
[From top of opposite page]
Course 64 ° E of S

[X insertion from opposite page ] "None of Barber’s words seemed intellegible to them – nor did they appear to know anything of Kindur – they pointed however to the South West when I mentioned Nammoy – and I knew that river was in the same direction

Lat Camp of 17 Jany & 10 Feby – 29 ° 35’. 46" –

were very glad to see them going although it seemed only with the intention of returning, - To those of the party who did cross the river they were very friendly – taking the net bands from their heads and placing them round theirs - &c – [^]

[^ from the opposite page] " The natives of this tribe were the finest men I had seen of this race – and from the peculiar colour which they paint their bodies, I recognised it to be that which appeared on the opposite bank of this river much higher up where we first made it – Most of the strong men were painted grey or pipe clay colour and being tall and well made this peculiar that contrasted with small greasy black fellows [indecipherable] gave them a very superior appearance – One man in particular, I was [indecipherable] certain was him I had met beyond the river – when they saw me give [indecipherable] – perhaps they recognised my authority for one very stout well painted fellow [indecipherable] &c – but none of these words we understood – about 100 appeared of this tribe –"
were caught had come up about 9 o’clock to the other empty drays & carts – and all were soon across on our side – as I did not wish the natives to know what difficulties a river occasioned us – The carpenter set to work at the wheel – strengthening them in a manner likely to make them last at least till we got nearer the settled parts of the country – I commissioned a small hortus siccus – although with the natives hanging on our rear – I could not hope to collect either the birds flower or insects which I intended to have done on returning under more favorable circumstances – Near sunset the natives returned – chiefly painted white for corrabory, but none of us went towards them – and they too held back – one crossed to the bullock driver who was watching the cattle on the left – and [indecipherable] him to go with him – they all at length dissappeared without further parley – Under those circumstances, I should not have been backward in accepting their civilities, but now it was necessary to be cautious – As it became dark – I sent up a rocket in hopes it would [indecipherable] them a little –

Friday 10th Feby. Started at ½ past 5 – following the bearing of 64 ° E of S in order to cut off [indecipherable] in our line, so as to shorten our road by one days journey meeting the line again on the second day – I thought this movement more expedient

[opposite page] Sketch of the river.

[Page 94]
expedient, as the former route was parallel to the river – so that we should again have had to encamp on its banks – and again probably had the natives about us as they retired in [indecipherable] direction – well aware of our marked line which made present circumstances the I [indecipherable] less safe than any new direction – by first following the old track about a [indecipherable] and then taking to the right it was probable the natives would be misled if [indecipherable] found to follow us, as we had hitherto returned by the former line line we had marked in going –
After proceeding some miles 64 ° E of South we crossed a chain of ponds and a mile beyond them came gradually into some very bad swamp ground – full of holes called melon holes – and every where interspersed with long reeds- : the ground was, however, even where these grew, hard – but the inequalities of the melon holes – rendered it extremely difficult for the drays – I turned East & even Northward of East to get out of this swamp and it was not easy to get on firm ground again – When I did I resumed the bearing with which I set out, but I was frequently obliged to keep more Eastward the swampy ground with reeds being close on my right –
This kind of ground is most probably connected with the Nammoy and may be very extensive – I had hitherto had the good fortune to meet with none of that description – and I became desirous to get into the marked line by which I had come and shaped my course accordingly [indecipherable] Eastward – crossing much ground where the grass and trees were on fire –
At length I approached the park like country crossed by us on our way forward – and fell in with the marked line – at about 3 miles North of our camp of the 18 Jany – as we approached the spot where we had been before, and while I stood attending the arrival of the drays still at some distance on the open plain I heard a female voice singing at no great distance – the notes were rather pleasing and quite different from the monotonous strains of the natives [X]
[X from the opposite page] "and the song had a very striking effect, harmonizing with the calm repose of the surrounding scenery – then richly gilt by the beams of a splendid setting sun –"

Musical as was the song however we could well have dispenced with it although it seemed to breathe tranquillity and peace – for our ideas of the natives were all associated with murder & pillage and our most anxious wish was to avoid them – I hullooed as unlike the natives as I could in hopes – of putting the party near us to flight – but on the contrary, the song continued, - After again listening – mens voices were also heard – and I could not help [indecipherable] that after hastening from my last encampment to avoid them and seeing none during the journey – that [indecipherable] natives should be again met with in the identical spot alone where we were again to pass the night – We took up our old ground, the song and voices ceased – and I hoped the natives had as usual moved off –
As the men pitched the tents I pointed my glass at some brown specks which looked like old stumps overhung with reeds & bushes and a bank – there I found to be five brown faces unmoved as statues – intent on our proceedings, I turned for a few moments, then looking again I counted

[end of this page – it seems to continue on the top of the opposite page]
"three – and soon after one only remained – the changes were so sudden and the positions were so steady – that the whole seemed like magic – I took [indecipherable] my arms: and went with Mr. White towards the spot whence [indecipherable] sounds had proceeded – at first we soon saw at a little distance some fires, and natives about them – I did not think it prudent to advance on them but discharged a gun in the air – and returned – Mr White afterwards visited the fires when it was dark and found they had left them. – All our vigilance was now necessary each night for the safety of the party [indecipherable] man had to watch the cattle all night – and two others had constantly to be on guard in the camp, all the rest had their arms at hand. This day two of the dogs fell behind and it was at first supposed they had died from exhaustion – all being miserably poor – but the weakest of the two came in the evening – which made it probable that they had been detained by natives following our track and that one of them had got off –

[Journey notes finish here]

[Page 95]
Riverina – 23d Jany 1831

Dear Mr White –

I have come upon a river which has more water in it than any we have hitherto met with, and I have resolved to explore its course; we are halted on its bank & about to begin the [indecipherable] – I wish you to join me here with the whole party, and have therefore sent back Muirhead, Jones & Wood – with the bullocks – I trust you have found a practicable ford for the empty drays – to be got across the river you are now upon, as I am very anxious about the safe passage of everything there – much care & caution will be necessary [indecipherable] have every article carried across – and it will be better to take a [indecipherable] to this alone, and then to encamp a few miles on the line – This I propose because the only water between you – and this is 22 miles on the way – I encamped without water on the day I left you – From that water to this is only about ten miles – so that you reach this easily on the second day –

I conclude that Suttor has come back to you, he volunteered to look for water when we were without it and did not return which occasioned me at first much anxiety – especially as we could not halt [indecipherable] – the previous day had been very hot & I being ignorant how far on I should have to go to satisfy our distressing want of the prime necessity of life – the men however say he had his tea & [indecipherable] in his hat – a file to strike light - & our teakettle with him and that he did not wish to go on such a fatiguing journey and had returned – on pretext of having lost his way to us – I shall be glad to learn where you came up – that it is [indecipherable] After you cross the Kindur the only other place where care is necessary with the drays are the chain of ponds 22 miles on & a river channel near it – I do not think the marked line where the horses passed the ponds at all good for drays but you may find by looking a little above or below many good plans – but take care the grassy intervals between the ponds are not to be trusted – a quarter of a mile beyond this you will come to the broad bed of a river with ponds - & steep banks – you must be very particular in looking for a passage for there is great danger of bogging the drays there perhaps [indecipherable] may be necessary to unload, for the banks are also very steep
[from opposite page]
the best way is to take turn – as it is but a short journey from the ponds to this camp –
There are pines on a part of the way – we want very [indecipherable] trees 14 feet long for oars – and as the drays will not be heavy – I wish you would cut two & bring them on with you – I have told Wood to shew you the place –

It is cloudy & I cannot get our altitude together but Lat. of the ponds is 29 °. 9’. 51"

I enclose a letter for Mr Finch which I beg you will place in some tree with crosses on the bark – and it will be also necessary to commit well the marked trees across the river for his guidance –
I remain –
Very truly yours
TLM

Dear Finch,

My camp is established on a great river 32 miles due North of this spot – There, at length your tedious journey will terminate – and if you arrive only a week or two after the date of this – I may have the pleasure of seeing you before embarkation –

You must be cautious in crossing this river as the banks at the edge of the water are soft and treacherous – all the loads must be carried across, that is what I did – and also Mr White who has had a depot here – The only water is 22 miles on – from there to my camp is about ten more –

Yours very faithfully
TLM

P.S. There is nothing to be apprehended from the natives

[Page 96]
From big Lagoon 13 Feby Brush hill – 95 °
Ponds – 123 –

14 Feby – at 9 miles crossed N. branch of big lagoon ponds
Mr Riddle bearing – 112 °
[sketch] – hill [indecipherable] E – 96.30 –
Frazer –104.30
[sketch] W. of Riddle – 116 ° -
W [indecipherable] – 123,30
[sketch] – 109.30

[beside the above]
swamp
Dog bit
Woman singing
Natives following –
Heat –
Ponds –

[sketch] flat hill N of [sketch] – 91

[indecipherable] Camp on ponds 14 Feby –

Riddel to Mt Lindsay. 12.37 –
Dr to hill W. Riddel 5.9
Mt Frazer to Riddel – 8.53 –
[sketch] old pl to D – 3.20
[indecipherable] hill old camp to D – 12,18
[sketch] hill [indecipherable] E on D – 17.58
E forest hill camp on D: 15.4 –

[beside the above]
Saty 11 Feby – To Pelican Ponds –
Sunday 12 [indecipherable] To Big Lagoon
Monday 13 – To Water hole where rain came on
Tuesday 14th – Raining much
Wedy – 15th – Halt

[indecipherable] McNiven’s ponds N 71.30E
Next ponds – 139 – say 136 – travelled to rainy camp

[indecipherable] at Rainy camp of 16th &c Feby
Mr Frazer – 84 °:
Riddel – 104 °:
Brush hill – 54 ° -

[Page 97]
[Very faint sketches of the area]

[Page 98]
[Geometric angles and calculations]
[from opposite page – partially transcribed]
1. On Fay Brook opposite to Ravensworth
2. On small creek on Mr [indecipherable] Forbes land
3. Bed of the River Hunter at ford near Segenhoe
4. Bed of Kingdom Ponds 3 miles above Dangar’s [indecipherable]
5. Bed of brook D: opp. R.ll where path turns off to range
Liverpool range where road crosses –
6. Durangai Creek at 3 miles beyd Pass –
Entrance to Liverpool plains (of road) –
7 Bed of dry river near Camp (say Currungai)
8 Bed of Currwarinda – near Loders Stn
9 Bed of Moolinburra Creek – (6 [indecipherable] 10ft) -

[Transcribed by Robin Matthews for the State Library of New South Wales]