Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales

Journal on the voyage to and at Western Port, New South Wales, 7 November 1826-25 March 1827, April 1827 / William Hilton Hovell
Safe 1 / 32d

[Transcriber’s note: Hovell has obviously gone through and made corrections to this Journal. He particularly deletes the letter “I” often when it makes sense to keep it.]

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Journal on the Voyage too and at Western Port New South Wales by [indecipherable] W.H. Hovell. 1826 and 7 –

Tuesday Nov 7th.

Put 4 horses and Provisions for them on board the Brig Dragon Shelton Master to be employed at Western Port.

8th The remainder of the Stores, with Pack Saddles &c &c was put on board for which I gave receipts to Mr. Longford Commissariat Stores & to D.A.C.G. Clements, Captain Wright & Lieut Burchell with 20 Soldiers and 20 Prisoners embarked I also sent my luggage on board –

Thursday Novr. 9th.
At 5 Am. I got on board, weighed anchor and made sail in Company with HM Ship Fly & the Governt Brig Amity worked out of the Heads with the wind SE. weather very fine, at 9 the Pilot left us, midnight the Light of Sydney bore W.N.W. Dis. 5 n 6 Leagues.

10th. At daylight this morning the Fly and Amity were hull down to the NE. hove too for them to come up, as they approached us but slowly/ notwithstanding they had a fair Wind / we at 9 oClock bore down to them, at noon the Fly
closed

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closed upon us, we made sail accordingly at 9 PM. The Wind increased from the N. b. E. carried away one of the Tiller blocks and as the Vessel steered very wild, we in consequence were obliged to shorten sail, which occasioned us to loose sight of both Vessels.

11th At 8 this morning the Wind chopped round to the S.E. with light breezes, at noon Mount Dromedary bore NNW. 10 leagues at 8 squally weather, the Mount NW. 7 leagues

13th Light breezes and cloudy, at 8 this Evening Cape Howe bore West 7 Miles

14th at 2 strong winds from the South, found it adviseable to run for Twofold bay, at 2 PM brought up in the bay, sent a Party of Men on shore to cut grass for the Horses others got water, on landing first a few Natives made their appearance, but disappeared on observing more of our men were about to be landed, went on Shore in company with Lieut Burchell, and the Master of the Vessel & myself to shoot Ducks, saw them but could not get near enough to shoot them, all the land immediately around this place is not at all inviting to Settlers. The soil is of a very inferior quality & thickly timbered, and the Country appears to be impassable from the North side of the bay, to the South side of a very high round topped mountain to the SW of us, and it must be in that direction that any communication with the interior of the Country can be had. The Bay or Cove which vessels have to anchor /safe from all winds/ is very small only capable of containing 3 or 4 vessels with safety, it is at the NW. side round what appears at a distance a small Island, but is connected by a narrow neck of Land

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Land, on this spot is fresh water, not plentiful nor of the best quality, The native huts which we saw are made the same as those near Sydney, the Grass in Patches appeared fresh and long, the Timber as far as we went round the bay is Gum, Box, She (Forest) Oak, but of a stunted quality

14th
After Captain Write and myself returned from shooting and the ships water complete we got under weigh , the wind having come round to the Eastward, at noon Red Point bore West 2 miles, at 8 Green Cape SSW. 4 miles, at midnight observed an Eclipse of the moon.

15th
At 4 Am light breezes and sometimes calms, Cape Howe SWbS. 7 miles, towards noon the wind encreased from the South, afterwards variable, Cape Howe W.N.W. the Ram Head WSW, Saw a small Sloop to the Eastward of us standing to the Northward, at 8 Cape Howe N.E.b N. about 5 leagues.
From what I have seen of the land between Mount Dromedary and Cape Howe having had a very favorable opportunity to examine the land between those Points, as also to Ram Head being close in shore and fine weather I am fully satisfied that no river, not even a boat harbour (there may be Boat bays, formed by two projecting points) lies between the two first points above mentioned, nor is the land at all favorable for persons settling upon it, about the middle or perhaps nearer towards Cape Howe & the Ram Head is a Valley between two distant mountainous Ranges which has some appearance of fertility, and at this place there appears to be an opening into the sea but from its being exposed to the South Wind I think it can only be a bad harbour.

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18th Blowing fresh from the Eastward At 8 a.m. abreast of Diana’s Islands, at 11 Wilsons Promontory bore north 4 or 5 miles, taken aback with heavy squalls from the NW as the Gale encreased we stood in for Sealers Cove, at 4 brought up in Sealers that Cove in about 10 fathoms of water Captain Wright the Master and myself went on shore to the watering place, it is not a convenient spot for that purpose, as the sea flows into the fresh water stream, therefore it has to be got from the sides of the Bank about the time that the tide recedes, On the NW. side of the Cove at the end of the beach fresh water can be got with more convenience. Caught a number of flat heads and three small Sharks, found a fur Seal that appeared to have lately died.

20th
Heavy Gales from the Westward, Captain Wright and myself landed on a beach lying north from the Vessel where we found a large Creek (or small river) of fresh water only seperated from the Sea by a bank of Sand of about 20 feet at high water; it lies at the extreme South end of the beach immediately after getting round the high rugged & wooded point of land which seperates this beach from Sealers Cove; here we shot a Swan; all the land at Wilsons Promontory has the appearance of being of the worst description, wherever we landed we found it to be all stones of a very coarse kind principally coarse Granite yet the ground is covered with dwarf timber and so thick of Underwood between the trees that it is impossible to penetrate into it; between the Ranges of Hills or Mountains (the valleys) there is generally a space of very thick Scrub and in

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and in other parts it is quite a Quagmire, flat, in which spot the washings from the adjoining mountains are deposited

22 November. At day light, light breezes and clear pleasant weather, weighed anchor and made sail,
Noon Wind SW. The Island of Rodondo bore N.W. 2 miles on approaching this Island we passed to the Eastward of a Rock above water covered with Seal, but disappeared on our near approach to them, at 8 Rodondo E.b S and Cape Liptrap NWbN, towards midnight the Breeze freshened from the NE.

23d. Novr – Between 3 and 4 oClock this morning a tremendous heavy squall approaching to a hurrican came on suddenly from the Westward took in all the Sails and let her run (until the Sails were secured and the Wind moderated (before the wind) at 5 more moderate made sail. Cape Wallamai on Phillip Island. N.W. at Noon moderate breezes and cloudy, the same Cape bore N.W. 1/2 N at 2 PM we saw the Fly hull down to Leward after being seperated since 11th Inst. at 8 Fresh breezes and cloudy, Grants rocks N.W. Cape Schanck W.N.W.

24th. Novr. Laying off and on ‘till day light, fresh Gales and Squally from the Westward, Grants Rocks N.N.W. 5 miles, Tacking to Windward the Fly in Company, about noon we weathered the reef at Grants Rocks and bore up for the Anchorage, On the rock we observed several Persons whom we took at first supposed to be Sealers viewing us coming in, a few miles from the Rocks towards the bay we saw a Man and several Dogs running along the beach also a piece of cleared ground under Cultivation, Course up after getting round the reef is NE. by N. to 5 Mile Point then ENE 3 miles. at
2.30 PM

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2.30 PM brought up at the Sand Spit in 10 fathoms Water, from where we are now lying the Eastern Arm of Western Port has a very fine appearance and capable of containing all the ships in the Navy, after coming to Anchor Captain Weatherall paid us a visit I afterwards went accompanied the Master on shore with the Master & the man we saw running along the beach came to us and informed us that the French Discovery Ship Astrelarb left this early on Sunday previous to our arrival, for Sydney having remained 8 days during which time they had surveyed the place, they had also spent some time at King Georges Sound in Surveying that place also.

Sunday 26th Novr. Fresh Gales and squally with frequent showers of rain sent on shore at the sand spit under a Guard 10 Sheep and 10 Pigs –

27th Captains Weatherall and Wright returned from having examined part of the Eastern branch of the bay.

Wednesday 28th Novr. At Day light this morning we got under weigh and ran about 10 or 12 miles higher up the Eastern Arm beyond a small Island off a Red Point and came to anchor in Dragon bay (named after the Brig), in 10 f’ths water Dragon bay is formed by two Points on the large Island

Thursday 29th Novr. Captain Wright, the sailing Master of the Fly, and the Master of the Brig were away in the whale boat to examine the Eastern Arm four Men & myself went to examine the land on that

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on that side. I returned in the afternoon of the following day (30th) I made the following observations after landing

The first course we took was S. 80 E and at about the distance of 3 miles came to a Tea Tree brush, in this place we found good fresh water and in less than ¼ a mile further came to a creek at a little distance from the beach, here the water was salt, but higher up it was fresh, at this place we met with Captain Wright & his party they had been to examine the land in this spot, all the ground between the Point and this we found to be exceedingly good, but the parts next the Sea is the best, the timber is not, or very little of it fit for any purpose except the fire and the only good water is at the brush alluded to; after stopping a short time here we proceeded we proceeded through a very thick scrub, soil of a very inferior Quality light and dry, abundance of Kangaroo but the scrub being so very thick we had no opportunity of catching any, about 2 miles from the Creek I came to the boat where Captain W. Had arrived & dinner prepared After remaining about 1 ½ hour I left them for the Eastermost part of the bay, with the Intention of stopping all night, we had not proceeded far before our progress was stopped by an impassible Tea Tree Brush this we had to get round by going in an Easterly direction which brought us to a barren track of Country of a heathy description, in parts it was covered with low Brush, in other places it was swampy and in consequence of its having been burnt previously the Stumps

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the Stumps of brush were sharp and made it very unpleasant walking besides running through the shoes into the feet of the men, we now took a more westerly course to get down to the Beach but this we were not enabled to do without first going through a Swamp and afterwards through a Tea Tree brush, this was not accomplished without much labor and fatigue, at last we succeeded and after following the course of the Beach to the Southward for about 1 mile we came to a spot where the fresh water was running out of the side of the bank here we stopped for the night on a small patch of dry ground where at high tide the water came within a few feet of us

(30th) At Sun rise this morning we were on the march keeping the same track we had come last night passed the place we came through and then cut through the tea tree brush in an Easterly direction towards a range of Hills observable from the ship and not more than 3 or 4 miles from the beach, this took us more than three hours to accomplish & when there (Course SE.) we found it necessary to descend in a SW direction it was so very thick of brush and Underwood that it was quite impossible to proceed without first cutting our way, - I saw little good Timber with the exception of some small stringy bark Trees, at a little after 9 oClock we came to a small Steam of Water running to the SW. the first we had met with to day, having travelled about five miles; after Breakfast we continued a S.W. Course which brought us to another line of Country similar to that we passed through last night devoid of timber or grass being in parts wet and boggy & soil very bad. This

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this appears to run parralel with the line of Coast & at the distance of about 3 miles from it, all the land between this Space and the Coast is of an exceedingly good quality, in this space of good soil are Patches of tea tree brush & in those plains is abundance of good water, quite cold in a hot day, but the Fern with which the ground is covered makes it very unpleasant travelling, besides the risk of being bitten by the Snakes which are here very numerous, the Course we had been keeping brought us to the Spot where we had met with Captain Wright & his party yesterday, after stopping here a short time we proceeded towards the Point, where we are to make the signal for the Boat to come for us, about 6 oClock we arrived on board where I found only Captain Wright, Lieut. Burchell, the Sailing Master of the Fly and Mr. Skelton the Master of the Brig had proceeded up the North branch, in search of the River in that direction.

Friday December 1 – Fine weather in the afternoon Lieut Burchell and his Party returned, having visited the small river alluded to, the water is fresh at low tide but is not accessible for boats at that time – the land immediately adjoining the stream is low and swampy, It appears that the Island is situated further from the Main land on the Western side than it is on the East and more exposed to the South and NW. Winds: Up to this period there has not been found an eligible spot to fix the Settlement.
Saturday 2d.

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Saturday 2d Decr.

Very fine weather wind variable about 10 oClock I landed with 2 soldiers and one Prisoner for the purpose of examining the River lying to the South of us on the S.E. Side and East of the Eastern entrance in our course thither I kept sometimes a little distance in the bush, and at other times nearer to the beach, at about 1 oClock we stopped to refresh on some of the ducks we had shot on our way, beside a Tea Tree Brush where we got good water, and at the distance of about 1 ½ mile from the River, at 3 we proceeded on, first having to pass through an almost impenetrable Tea Tree Brush and secondly through a marshy track of low land: in this space no Trees or Bushes grow but only tussicks of coarse grass & in many parts partially covered with water, Snakes appear to be very numerous here and of a very dangerous description, one of which of a very large size I trod upon, but disabled it from doing me any injury, its color was of a dirty brown, short but very thick with an exceedingly broad Head perhaps not less than 2 ½ inches, On arrival at the river I found it to be about 30 or 40 feet wide, it was within ¾ of an hour of Ebb, the height of the banks to the Water did not exceed 12 feet and had the appearance of being overflowed at high spring tides, the Ducks and Teal were numerous and had we but the Convenience of carrying them we might have shot a boat Load, I proceeded up the River ‘till we came to the first high Land /on the north
Side/

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Side/ which appears on the side of the river here we stopped for the night with a tea tree brush at the back of us with abundance of fresh water in it

3 Sunday Decr.

At sun rise we proceeded up the river keeping close to its banks, alternately passing through thick patches of bushy but good land, and clear open spaces of ground of a stiffer nature but perhaps of as good a quality, but I think not so dry as the former notwithstanding it is elevated nearly 30 feet above the level of the River; after travelling about 2 miles above where it is possible to get up with a boat and about 9 oClock we stopped to Breakfast, here we found the water in the river to be perfectly fresh and good, the land but thinly covered with trees and the soil very good, but from the circumstance of the ground being full of lumps I am inclined to beleive that in wet weather it is soft and marshy notwithstanding it lies so high above the level of the river – After Breakfast we took a course of about W.N.W. and made the point of land 1 ½ mile to the Eastward of the river and which at low water projects some distance into the Sea, but at high tide are two small Islands on this point are abundance of Shells, in our way we found the land the same as that towards the Head of the river, and as we approached the Sea we find the Tea Tree Brush to be more common particularly

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particularly along the sides of the river forming a semicircle from the Point (above mentioned) and the River where the first standing timber came down to it. – about this time 12 oClock we heard a royal Salute (21 guns) fired which came from the direction of where His Maj. Ship Fly was lying, and knowing the Battery was nearly finished on Phillips Island I had no doubt, but it was from thence it came On our way towards the Ship I sometimes kept a little distance in the Bush, found the land to be the same as that we had passed through, I found great abundance of water between Red Point and the next Point to it (southwardly) and only a few yards from the Beach, the water between the last Point and the third and where the ship got water the day before I now found to be perfectly Salt, the high Spring tide the last night having flowed into it. About 6 oClock Captain Wright and Mr Skelton the Master joined us at the Point having been with the boat into the River we just left, and went on board together.

Wednesday 6th. Captain Wright and Mr Skelton left this to examine the left West Branch of the bay, hauled the Seime and caught got a small number of fish. Thermometer to day in the Shade was 84 ° in the Sun 110 °

Thursday 7th – The Boat returned Captain Wright having examined every part of the West Bay and from the Report they are enabled to make it appear that there is not an eligible spot fit to make the settlement
where

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where the situation would do, there is not a sufficiency of fresh water, and where good land and fresh water are combined, there is not safe anchorage or a deficiency of depth of water for a vessel: Under all these circumstances therefore it is considered best to determine upon fixing the Settlement, at the spot Past of Red Point, and where a Party is now on shore making a garden & putting seeds & potatoes in the Ground; On Captain Wright closely examining the North end of the Bay, he found another River which he thinks is not fresh at low water, the land in point of quality he thinks is equal to any he ever saw in the Colony, it appeared like beautiful Meadows in England, very thin of Timber, grass excellent; this is the second river that has been seen in that direction, they could not get any communication with the natives although at different times they have been seen, / a Boat belonging to the Fly also accompanied ours./ –

Sunday 10th. Decr. This day being appointed finally to determine upon the spot for the settlement Captain Weatherall came to Breakfast with us for the purpose of going on shore with Captain Wright to select the more eligible situation in the space proposed, on landing they went in different directions to look at the water which I had previously found, they also dug in different places and at about the depth of 2 or 3 feet they found the Earth to be charged with abundance of water for all the necessary purposes of the household; the Site for the Town is on the top of the range between the two points of land (Viz) Red Point
and

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and the next point East of it, and to front the Bay, brick earth is on the spot of a very good quality and lime can be burnt at the Point East of Bass’s River from Shells, which are abundant & on the sand banks near the Site; The only objection is the scarcity of good timber, and the great distance the ship has to lay from the shore, the outer bay being at least 3 miles distant. – Thermometer 68 °

Monday 11th. – I landed two of the horses in the ships long boat, but on the way it came on to blow with showers of rain, which occasioned the Boat to roll about, the horses not being accustomed to the quick motion of the boat, became unsteady, the large horse fell again the small mare and knocked her overboard, the latter was then shifted aft, pulled her head close up to the Gunnell and caused her to swim, & sometimes floating on her side, till we reached the shore a distance of at least 2 miles, on landing I was pleased to find that she had received no injury, I however had her dry rubbed & walked about ‘till she appeared quite recovered – As it still remains squally with showers of rain, shall not land any more the other two ‘till tomorrow about 3 P.M. Captain Wright brought Rouliffe (a soldier, on board who had been bitten by a yellow snake on the Knee the man had took the precaution to tie a bandage round, a little above the part bitten, Captain Wright scarified the part and a nother soldier applied his mouth to the wound and continued sucking it until they arrived
on

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on board, The Doctor then applied the necessary applications to the Patient. – The Boat belonging to the Fly brought up the Sheep and Pigs from the Sand Spit, the place they were first landed at, They also proposed taking one of the remaining horses but the wind still blowing fresh against the Ebbtide, I declined sending either of them on shore, till the weather is more favorable for the purpose; - A Sow Pig belonging to Lieutenant Burchell was bitten by a Snake soon after landing and died in a short time after
The Thermometer from 70 ° to 64 °

Thursday 12th. Fine pleasant weather, as soon as breakfast was over landed one of the horses, he being quiet it was done without much trouble, not so the bay mare which was landed after, for she gave us much, and notwithstanding the trouble precaution had taken she within one hundred yards of the shore broke both hobbles & halter, plunged overboard and swam ashore. - I accompanied Captain Wright to the Lagoon of fresh water, which I had found a few days back and situated South of the place proposed as the Settlement about 1 ½ miles at least, it is therefore considered too far distant to be of any use, consequently the Establishment will have to be removed to the next point further East and nearer to the supplies of fresh water in that direction, pleased to find that raddishes (from the seed sown, have made their appearance, at 4 oClock returned to the

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the Ship. –

Wednesday 13th. – Very fine weather have observed for some days past that a very pleasant breeze generally sets in with the flood tide, it is a sort of sea breeze and makes it exceedingly pleasant Captain Wright & self went on shore, Lieut Burchell with the remainder of the Soldiers and Prisoners landed shortly after, we went in different directions to look at the quantity of water, I regret to say is rather small, but by digging in the Tea Tree brush and making resevoirs think it is likely we may get enough to answer all purposes; the remainder of the Fowls, Geese and ducks were landed, I should have observed that the fresh water Creek is but a very little distance from the brush with sufficient water also.
Landed one boat load of wet Provisions with the Man of Wars boat. –

Thursday 14th – Weather the same as yesterday had the Soldiers and baggage shifted to the place proposed to be the Settlement, found 2 feet of water in the hole dug this morning in the Tea Tree brush, took 2 riding saddles on shore & rode the horses, landed one boat of Wet Provisions and the two Guns at Battery Point, the Soldier that was bitten by the snake is nearly recovered, on board  –

Friday 15th. First part of the day very warm, towards noon a fine sea breeze set in, I remained on

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Decr.
on board to make preparations for a journey tomorrow in the direction of Capt Liptrap, Landed two boat loads of wet and dry Provisions. Thermometer at Noon 75 °

Saturday 16th About noon I started for my intended journey at my request two Soldiers were ordered to accompany me with their arms and ammunition for my protection, by the Commandant – and two Prisoners to carry the Provisions etc
Kept - a Course about S b E. up the meadow on a line with the garden for about 3 or 4 miles, passed through a heathy country covered with a very low brush 2 miles (bearing of a hill on the range over which I intend to pass) S 10 E. then came to a country similar to that near the Station, studded with Tea Tree Brush or rather Scrub, at 3 came to Bass’s river at a place where the right Bank is perpendicular, and about 30 feet above the water and within a short distance where the river is not navigable for boats, it becoming shut up in consequence of the trees falling across the stream, traced the stream up a short distance and came to the spot where I had breakfasted on the 3d. Int. here I stopped to refresh the water was fresh at high tide. At 5 crossed the Stream on one of the fallen trees, after crossing a fine meadow of ½ or ¾ mile in width entered into a tea tree brush which after going a short distance into it I had every reason to repent, it became so very thick and in other parts it had been burned and the young wood growing up between the old fallen trees.

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trees which hid them from our sight, this occasioned us many a fall and often attended with pain, and we did not succeed in getting through this vile place until half past eight in the evening a distance of about 2 ½ miles, at 9 we stopped at the foot of the Range but without water and this in the midst of a low Scrub, The men We were all nearly exhausted by fatigue, and the want of water, the day having been very hot and sultry.

Sunday 17th. At daylight started to ascend the range, at 6 arrived at the top, it now began to rain this was very acceptable as we were now enabled to get some to moisten our parched lips, Shot 2 Kangaroos with one ball having passed through one into the other and as it was likely to continue raining we descended the range on the South East side and made a bush hut sufficient to keep out light rain and as the men we were a good deal fatigued from yesterdays Journey I was not sorry for an opportunity of laying by to refresh, we were a good deal tormented with the Musquetoes & small sand fly’s. Before descending the Range took the following Bearings. (Viz)
to come in (2)
Bearing of the Brig – N 23 W
Small Island off Battery Point – N 27 W
Sloop of War & Sand Spit – N 66 W
Arthurs Seat Port Philllip – N 74 W
Cape Schank – S 86 W
Cape Wallamay – S 55 W

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x to be omitted

x Before leaving the Brig took these bearings (Viz)
1st Point on Island nearest Brig – S 26 W.
2d - do. – S 23 W.
Cape Wallamay – S. 4 E
Sandy Island, Penquing – S 22 E
Battery Point – S. 36 E.
Settlement Point – S. 61 E
Point East of it – S 82 E
X East Point of Island - N b SE [or N 65 E]
(No 1) to come first
Bearings & Distance from Battery Point
to Shallow Lagoon - S 55 E. 25 Geog.e miles
to Cape Liptrap – S 35 E 45 Geog.e miles
From Shallow Lagoon to East Entrance – S 40 W. 23 Geog.e miles
From East Entrance to Battery Point – N 23 E – 11 Geog.e miles

December 1826

Monday 18th From daylight to 8 oClock this morning light showers of rain, got up an early to breakfast and proceeded on our Journey, followed one of the collateral branches of the main range in a S E by S. direction. The soil middling good, timber also, abundance of Kangaroo, on the top of the main range I got Sandstone apparently of a good quality for building but rather of a yellow cast; at 8 came to a small salt water Creek which we crossed and came to the beach about one mile East of the place where it emptys itself into the Sea, I found as we approached the Beach the quality of soil diminish and

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and next the Coast it became a low tea tree brush good water scarce, at 10 came to a small river about 60 or 80 yards wide which emptys itself into the Sea over a rocky bottom, it was low water when we crossed it, up to our knees, the Channel was narrow but the Stream ran very strong, the water appeared to come from the mountainous range to the North & East of us, for some distance up there is not a tree on its banks the situation of this River, is not described on the chart, but it appears to lay about one third nearer to Cape Patterson than to the Eastern Entrance but it can never be of much use for navigation as it is opened to a continued troubled Sea, between the last mentioned Creek and this River, the Soil is very good, and has a very pretty appearance, at the foot of this good land is a large Piece of fresh water or Lagoon full of Reeds and Bullrushes, this is only seperated from the sea by banks of Land sufficiently high to prevent salt water ever coming over at the same time sufficiently thick to prevent the water escaping: at noon we stopped to refresh at another Lagoon, similar to the last, but the land very bad, the appearance altered immediately after passing the River – Bearing from the River to east side of East Entrance N.73 W.

Cape [Belkamay?] Wollamai West. To a Projecting Point which I take to be Cape Patterson S. 37 E. -

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Coal at Cape Patterson

At 3 PM proceeded onward and at 5 arrived at what I suppose to be Cape Paterson about ¼ mile East of it. I was agreeably surprised to find abundance of Coal of the best quality, it was lying in three paralel lines in succession for at least one or two miles about 10 Inches thick with either Iron or fine Grey sand stone between each layer extending in a N N W and S S E direction dips a little to the South and about 10 ° or 15 ° to the West, it extended below low water mark, on the side of one of the Clifts the Coal was 4 feet above the Beach – at 6.30 stopped for the night at a small place of fresh water in the midst of a short but thick tea tree scrub a few yards from the Beach, put a piece of Coal on the fire & find it to burn well it has a fine Glossy and Pitchy appearance -
Saw an Emu to day but could not shoot him
From Cape Patterson to East side, Past Entrance N 58 W.
To Cape Wallamai – N 68 W.

Tuesday 19th Decr. Did not start till 8 oClock and finding the whole line of Country above the beach to be exceedingly bad travelling in consequence of the short thick Scrub, I determined upon keeping along the beach except when we came to those bluff projecting Points which are washed by the Sea, at these places we have to ascend and walk across to the opposite side and this occupies much time and trouble, in doing this we always meet with Snakes the soil being light and Sandy wet in many places, at one of these projecting bluff Points we stopped 2 hours to refresh. At this

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this place a Cave has been made by the washing of the Sea it is large enough to hold 100 men, in this I cut my name in the stone with a Tomahawk, the tide having ebbed sufficiently we got round the Point instead of having to cross it. At 7 oClock came to the river (shallow lagoon) and stopped at a Salt water Creek ¼ of a mile from the Entrance on the West side – 150 years up this Creek I got fresh water. –

Bearings from Point East of Cape Patterson
To Cape Patterson - N 61 W
To Wallamai – N 72 W.
Point East of it – S. 61 E
From a Point 3 miles East of Cape Patterson
1st – high [indecipherable]  S 80 W.
2d. ditto – ditto N 60 E
3d – ditto a high projecting point – S. 49 E.

At 1 30 came to a Point from which Cape Liptrap bore S 47 E. Shallow Lagoon N. 49.E. a projecting point East of us, S. 54 W. – On arriving at the River I took these bearings. Cape Liptrap – S. 39 E.
To a Prospecting Point S. 45 W.

Wednesday 20th – The weather has been very fine rather hot since Sunday, as this River is the extent of the Journey I propose going I determined upon stopping a day not only to take a view of the river higher up and the Country around, but also to give the men a rest (two being much fatigued), After breakfast I took two men with me up the River to a high prospecting Point four miles up, left two men at the Station. From this the Entrance bore S 67 W.
To the

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To the last mentioned prospecting Point taken yesterday S 54 W. the River from this bluff runs East 2 miles then E S E. towards a mountainous Country in that direction, although the River appears narrow at the Entrance (1/4 M) yet higher up it is very wide, in places not less than two Miles, but it is full of Sand banks which are covered at high water, the deepest part of the Entrance appears to be on the N.W. side but higher up it is on the S.E. I think it is a rocky bottom across the Entrance & which (as it does nearly the whole line of Coast) extends a long distance out to Sea, apparently level, East & West, and only a small dip to the South, therefore at Ebb tide the water retires a great distance, the sea was breaking across the bar when it was nearly high tide, The land in the direction of Cape Liptrap is of a moderate elevation, level and thick trees but not large – To the NW. Hill & Dale, in places, it is quite clear of Timber, but those places I have no doubt I shall find to be of a moist barren nature, similar to some we passed over on our route here, black Swans are very numerous I never saw so many before, also the ducks and Teel and Cranes. No Indication of Natives, I have seen only a few of their old huts, it is mostly Honeysuckle tree which grows near the Sea & River side, further inland small gum and a description of wood I am not acquainted with, the bark outside looks like Stringy bark. –

Thursday 21st. Fore part of the day cloudy, middle and latter part very warm at 5 AM left the River in the direction N 60 W., through the first part of it, 2 or 3 miles a low brushy track

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track of land, no trees, land moist and of a sandy nature, I then penetrated into standing timber, between which is growing an almost impenetrable low scrub, this we succeeded in getting through by 10 oClock, but it occasioned us much labor and fatigue. – Next entered into a track of Country similar to that passed over first this morning and at 11.30 we stopped having at last found as much water, as would do for breakfast (but not good) out of some holes which have I suppose been scratched by animals, they are seldom more than 6 or 8 Inches square, but in depth some are 3 feet. At 3 we left and at 4 came to a place of standing water about knee deep and about nearly ¼ mile broad, in this water were growing some of the longest and tallest Tea Tree I ever saw, some 30 feet without a limb; at a short distance from this came to a small river running to the SW., water fresh, running stream about 30 feet wide, banks about 10 feet, appears to be overflowed at times passed  crossed passed over on a tree which had fallen across, at a short distance further came to a Marsh about 6 or 700 acres not a tree growing on it, and up to our knees in water. Came upon another track of Timber and scrubby Country, passed through this in one hour and arrived at another swamp and brush and a branch of the last river and at Sun Set stopped on the banks of it. – On the banks of both streams are growing some of the highest and straightest Trees I have seen in this part of the Country one large Gum tree took five persons to grasp around
and it

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Decr. 1826

It was high in proportion. The Bell Bird is always to be found where there is water, I also saw Pheasants, The Gang Gang ( a species of Parrott and Cockatoo, Grey with red Top Knot and Breast) and the black and white Cockatoo.

Friday 22d. – By Sun rise (4 hr 40 m) we were on the march Keeping the same course as yesterday, we had not gone far through another high tea tree swamp when we arrived at another Marsh, this we crossed with some little difficulty, above our knees in water, the extent of it about half a mile square, we next entered upon a brushy forest track for 2 miles, Soil light, timber principally Stringy Bark, having crossed a deep Creek (water running to the South and a branch of the river we crossed last night * [Following 7 words written on side of page] Note to be carried * to the bottom /This is the river I crossed at 10 oClock on Monday last at the mouth our travelling became one continual ascending and descending The Collateral branches of the main mountainous range over which I shall have to cross diagonally to gain the Settlement;/ at 11 we stopped to Breakfast at the bottom of one of the deep ravines where we always find good water; at 2 h.30 m proceeded onward ascending and descending as before until 5 oClock when we had to our great satisfaction arrived at the top of this fatiguing ascent, I now climbed a tree to enable me to see over the tops of others to get Bearings of the Bay etc etc. The result was first

The Head at East part of Gordons bay – N7.W.
Point

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Point forming the north side – N 9 W.
Sand spit and Sloop of War – N 80 W
The projecting point East of Bass’s river N 78 W
The Place where I suppose the Settlement to be N 45 W.
The direction or line which this range (for there is only one which I can observe appears to lie is NE & SW. – having made a fire and smoke to those on board the Brig as a Signal, I descended the range and at about a mile from it at a Tea Tree brush we halted for the night, it being Sun down when we stopped the difference in the quality of Soil immediately adjoining the range is observable the moment on arrival at the top - The Soil to the very top is good on the SE. side, but not so on the N.W. side, the timber is excellent, it is the tallest and straightest I have seen any where, except in two places on my late journey overland to this place from Sydney to Port Phillip, generally speaking they are not large, but they would answer better for Ships masts and spars than any I have seen, but there would be some difficulty in getting them over the range. The Musk and fern trees are common, the Cutting Grass often made us feel the effects of its keen edge, for where ever it draws, ever so slightly, across the flesh it makes an incision, and the touch from the stinging nettle was equally severe but not lasting, notwithstanding the good quality of the Soil, very little grass grows on it, it being too much shaded by the trees and underwood, so much so that I was not able to see more than fifty yards at any time

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any time, and very often not even the Sun, although a very fine day, we found the Ground leaches very troublesome also the Musquetoes and small Flys –

Saturday 23d At Sun rise we left our resting place & kept a course N 50 W. through the first part of it a low Tea tree scrub then into Patches of Tea Tree, the appearance of the Country changing into something of a different quality studded with trees, and something of a marshy appearance, at length it appears to change all at once into thick fern, high Gum trees, good and fit for purposes of building, soil light dry and good which denoted that a river was at hand. at 7 arrived at the Banks of one which I suppose is Bass’s River; the banks here are about 20 feet above the water and about 80 or 100 from one Extreme bank to the other, but I do not, nor have I seen any indication of the land being overflowed at the time of a fresh, the Stream is always running and received its supplies from the mountainous range S E of us I have no doubt its scource is at a long distance up, to which I intend going next trip. – At this stream we stopped to refresh, the water not being good where we remained stopped last night, which occasioned griping in the bowels, but which was removed by taking some Hot Tea at half past nine left, went through a track of very fine land studded (which by the bye has a very pretty effect upon the beholder) with Tea Tree its foliage of a fine dark green, the ground very thin of trees. –
Immediately

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immediately adjoining this is forest ground, and again at the back of this, is barren scrubby land, no trees of any description growing up on it, then forest and again Scrub, in the Centre of which is water (good) through which we had to wade up to our knees for about 100 yards, on leaving this the land again changes its appearance & I plainly saw that we were drawing towards the Sea Coast At 1 oClock came to the Lagoon where the shipping is supplied with water, at 2 arrived at the Tents where each was welcomed by his friend, they having been under some apprehension for our safety from the natives (none of whom we saw) having been 3 days longer than we had taken Provisions for, in the Evening I went on board the Brig with Captain Wright. –

Sunday 24th The weather as usual exceedingly fine, and very agreeable particularly to an English Constitution Captain Wright & myself brought on shore all our baggage for the purpose of remaining on shore for good , Lieutenant Burchell having left the Vessell some days previously. –

Monday 25th – Throughout the day weather rather warm a Holiday for all hands being Christmas day Mr Skelton the Master of the Brig came on shore to dine with us, kept up the old English custom not of roast beef but a Roast Goose, and
Plum Pudding

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Plum Pudding. On Examining the Keg which contained the spirits for the use of the journey I found that it had been tapped and only about ½ Gallon left in it – Three Natives have made their appearance in this quarter –

Tuesday & Wednesday 26 & 27th. Employed writing letters to Sydney by the Brig which is to leave this tomorrow morning.

Thursday 28th. Very fine weather. Mr Burchell 3 men & myself rode to Bass’s river and returned in the Evening, having shot a few ducks whilst there. The Brig Dragon left this for the Sand spit this forenoon. On our return we went to the place where the Natives had had their encampment some days previously to see if they had taken away the tomahawks and blankets which had been left for them two days back. - but found them as we left them. – In the last 3 days I have picked up Manna from under the trees, it is not in large quantities, is exceedingly good and very agreeable to the taste, it is perfectly white, the peices are seldom larger than a Pea, The Tree does not in the external appearance resemble the Manna tree at Bathurst, or Argyleshire, this has a smooth bark of a blueish cast except at the root which is rather rough and dark coloured. –

Saturday 29.th Captain Weatherall, Lieut Brown, the Doctor and passenger of the Fly, came to dine with
us

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us they had returned from making a circuit round the Island and bay, and visiting the four rivers at the North, or upper end of the bay, they also had a friendly visit from the natives, while there they appear inclined to be friendly, many tokens of friendship were left them by Captain Weatherall and his Party, their customs and manners appear the same as in other parts of the Colony not so their language. –

Tuesday Jany 2d. 1827 Nothing occurred since the date last mentioned excepting that the frame of the house intended as Government House was removed from the Saw Pit yesterday to the place of its intended Site, the well which is digging is now 11 feet deep, no signs of water as yet, made preparations for a weeks journey up the  Bass’s River to start off tomorrow morning after breakfast, Captain Wright accompanies me, we intend taking two saddle and one Pack Horse the Brig Dragon not yet sailed although the wind is fair. NE

Wednesday 3d – At 8.30 Captain Wright and myself left the station for the purpose of following up Bass’s River taking with us two soldiers, 2 Prisoners 2 Saddle and one Pack Horses, with Provisions for one week, at 11 arrived at the River at the spot where I had previously marked the Trees for a line of road as a Communication from the one place to the
other

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other. Employed ourselves in shooting Ducks until the hour appointed to meet Captain Weatherall and until 2 oClock the weather was oppressively hot, it then became cloudy and shortly after a very heavy squall of wind and rain set in from the Westward accompanied with thunder & Lightning, as soon as the squall was over which lasted about one hour, and Captain Weatherall not having arrived we set forward up the River; between 4 & 5 oClock as appearances indicated another squall from the same quarter, we halted on the bank of the river made a temporary hut with a tarpauline which not only secured the Provisions from the wet but kept us dry also, Weather cloudy with light showers of rain the remainder of the evening; the spot we are now on has certainly a very beautiful appearance, the Soil being exceedingly good and covered with an excellent coat of Grass, and the Timber (except on the banks of the River which is plentiful and good) is very thin and those of a description which has more the appearance of Ornament than otherwise, at the back of this again are clumps of Tea Tree brush which answers for Shelter for the Kangaroo which are very numerous

Thursday 4th - The fore part of the day cloudy and some appearances of rain, a little after 5 oClock this morning we moved a little higher up the river about ½ mile

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½ mile from where we started the river takes a sudden turn towards the East, and continues that course until (apparently) it comes to the foot of the mountainous range on the East side of the River, we attempted to trace it up but found a Prickly bush or scrub, the fern, dead Timber and underwood so thick that it was impossible to do it with the horses, we in consequence retreated from it, we now suddenly entered upon another description of Country from that which we had been travelling this was, first, a bad description of forest, timber thick and Good, full of fern and low brush, from this we arrived at a place where it is all brush, no trees but a few stunted ones, Soil very bad, through this it was impossible to get with the horses, and having come to a little water we stopped to breakfast at 7 o’Clock; after a hearty hasty meal we without the men and horses proceeded on further on, ascended one of the high trees near us, and to our regret found it impossible to go any further, in the direction we wished, the Country having the appearance of being the precise counterpart of that which we are now on. – much higher land was seen towards the E.N.E. from which the river appears to come, NE. b. E high timber appears to extend for some distance towards the NE. but between the trees are closely matted a

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a close low brush, the trees being so much higher than where we stood gave it the appearance of high land also, but when we came to it we found it somewhat lower We now retraced our steps to the spot we left this morning and arrived there about noon; shortly after a heavy squall of rain set in from S.W., heard several Guns fired which we supposed to be Captain Weatherall and his party, Capt Wright went to meet him at 2 he returned having arranged with Captain Weatherall that he should accompany him to Sydney on the 10th Inst., and as the appearance of the Country was unfavorable and the weather also, he proposed returning to the Settlement tomorrow. –

Friday 5th -/ 27.

Throughout the night and until 9 oClock this morning, heavy squalls of wind and rain from the same quarter as yesterday. – at 9 commenced our return by the way came and about noon arrived at the station, Squalls of rain less frequent. –
Saw a Bird called “Native Companion. –
Mr Burchell observed yesterday a large Smoke in the direction of our proposed rout but which must have been the natives. Another Pig died from the bite of a Snake, this is the third that has died from the same cause (first) a Boar Hog Stag which had been sent by mistake instead of a Boar, a Sow in Pig belonging to

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to Lieutenant Burchell and the last a Sow Pig to myself

Saturday 6th
Throughout the day cloudy with frequent showers of rain, during our absence the people have been employed falling trees in the front of the houses, digging the well, and as the thatch of two of the houses let in rain, a man is employed rethatching them

Sunday 7th
The weather still squally from the S.W. & W S.W. but the showers of rain not so frequent as yesterday Captain Wright again read prayers this Sunday, - Scott the Sealer came up with his Boat and brought his black wife and presented us with Green Pease & Potatoes, the Produce of his Garden, he also brought us a specimen of what he thought to be Coal, but it is only a sort of bitumous wood, he got it on the South side of Phillip Island.

Monday 8th January /27

Squally weather all day, the men returned from hunting and brought home several Kangaroos, Captain Weatherall & his Party did not come to the Settlement agreeably to expectations, men commenced splitting shingles for the house out of Forest Oak generally speaking it does not split well. –
Tuesday 9th

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Tuesday 9th – Same weather as yesterday about 8 oClock this morning Captain Weatherall came to the Settlement and brought the boat with him which he intends leaving for our use (until this time we had been without one, after breakfast he & Captain Wright went to scale the Guns /long 12 pounders/ at Battery Point, but there is only one that will take the shot intended for them having laid so long without being used, the Party remained with us all night. Command of the Settlement was given over to day by Captain Wright (who embarks tomorrow) to Lieutenant Burchell.

Wednesday 10th February –
Throughout the day the weather the same as yesterday – Captain Wright left us with Captain Weatherall and the Party to embark on the Fly for Sydney they propose sailing tomorrows Ebb Tide, a small party of Soldiers went down in the Sealers Boat to take charge of the Battery etc at Phillips Island – Daniel McKay (the veteran Soldier) that was sent down for the purpose of accompanying me on the different journeys has in consequence of his weak state of health, and not being enabled to stand the fatigues of the journeys got permission to proceed to Sydney on the Fly and has embarked for that purpose.
Some

Thursday 11th.

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Some appearance of a change of weather, the wind being more moderate, and the showers of rain less frequent, by noon the Fly was nearly out of the Bay having had to beat out with the Ebb tide wind about W.S.W. . The swell this Evening is 27 ½ feet deep and what little water they have as yet got is brackish.

Friday 12th
Throughout the day warm and pleasant and every appearance of the weather becoming settled, I made preparations for a journey up to the North, or head of the bay, I propose first to visit the different streams, to get an interview with the natives, and afterwards to be landed at the farthest, or N.W. River and then to endeavour to penetrate into the interior, for this purpose I take one weeks Provisions with 3 Soldiers and 2 Prisoners the former as Protection, and the latter to carry things necessary, the boat will return to the Settlement after landing us, and come for us again at the end of the week. –
Mr Burchell and myself rode to the place where we had previously left some Tomahawks & Blankets for the natives, but found them as we had left them. –

Saturday 13th. Left the Settlement at 10 oClock and arrived at the East River at ½ past two which I have now named Burchells River in Compliment to Lieut

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Lieutenant Burchell of the 3d Regt or Buffs the present Commandant of the Settlement (this is situated on the north branch where there are four others all within the space of ten miles) Between what is called Red Bluff and this river is all a low shore covered to the waters edge in some places with high close tea tree, in other places low tea tree scrub, at the former where it comes close to the waters edge it has the appearance at a distance of a high perpendicular shore, but it is a close impenetrable brush through which a great deal of fresh water escapes /high spring tides is level with the shore,/ the drainings of the land at the back, On the West side of the River is a better description of country, and what may be called open forest and it appears to extend for some distance to the West. The Entrance of the River will be known by the Tea Tree brush on the East side, and Forest standing trees in the West, Two Mangrove trees close together and one at a little distance from them on the West projecting point at the Entrance, and a clump of the same description of Trees on the East being the first seen after leaving Red Bluff coming from the Eastward it is little more than 100 feet wide. The Bearings to it from Sandy Point is N 15 W about 12 miles and N 22 W from Red Bluff.

Sunday 14th
Throughout the night and until 8 oClock this morning cloudy and light showers of rain. From the favourable report which the Men gave me of the Country, which they saw last night when hunting, I took two Soldiers with me to trace up the course of the River At half past seven we left and at the distance of about one mile from the Tent, I came to a fine open level
country

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Country, very thinly covered with trees, soil of a good quality, and the grass long and fresh, the River runs due North for four miles when it takes a more Easterly direction and appears to come from the mountains NE from this. – Having gone as far as was necessary for the present I returned at 9 oClock and arrived at the Boat at 10, having first left a Blanket and Tomahawk for the Natives at one of their Camps, and where they had lately been. I am happy to say the appearance of the Country is favourable, and I anticipate from this a good ending, the only objection to it is that I think it lies too flat, to be perfectly dry in rainy seasons; The water is exceedingly good and the Timber on the side of the Creek ( or River, is good also: at 10 arrived at the Camp  At 11 left, it being then about half flood, at 2 arrived at the West River, on our way shot four black Swans, they are very numerous Saw two Porpoises swimming in six feet water, At 4 the Boat returned to the Settlement, and about the same time I left to trace up the River, the land on the East side of the river at the Entrance and for some distance up appears scrubby, the West side open forest, in less than one hours walk from the Entrance I was enabled to see that the land on the other side of the River is clear and open, and I have no doubt is equal to the land on this, here it has a very fine Meadow, and in other parts

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parts Park like appearance, at this time I had left the River to the East, it having taken a bend in that direction, but I kept a course about NbW for a Particular Mountain (the Westermost of the Mountain range) which I supposed to be about 20 or 25 miles from the Entrance, after passing through the track of Land as described, I came to another open space quite clear of trees for several miles square, but so perfectly flat that the water appears to have no possibility of draining off consequently after rain the ground must be some time before it can absorb the whole, but at this time we could not get a drop to moisten our lips, which would have been very acceptable from its being so very hot, and which we so much required; having come upon a native path which led in the direction I wanted wished to go, I kept upon it in hopes that it would lead to water, but a thunder storm coming on, and it being half past six oClock, we came too for the night on a low spine or ridge, soil light and dry; the line of its direction due North & South, the rain came on before we could get our temporary hut made, and notwithstanding the care taken in putting out the Pots and Pans we did not succeed in getting two Pints of Water, (if dry inside we were wet enough out) a short time before stopping we had arrived at a much better description of Country, than that which we had last left and it has the same appearance in the direction we have
to go

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to go to morrow

Monday 15th
Before 5 this morning left our resting place: still keeping on the native path which at a little after six oClock brought us to a Creek of cold running water, this is evidently a mountain stream and a few yards from it is a space of rising ground where the Natives have many old huts here we stopped to get breakfast having gone to bed supperless last night, all the land in this side of the ridge (the part stopped on last night) is better than any we have passed over yet, but it still observes a degree of levelness which must take some time to drain the water off, but if it has its disadvantages in this respect, it will have the advantage of retaining the moisture in dry seasons, the Grass is everywhere young and fresh, very thick and of the same quality as in the other parts of the Colony, the trees are very thin; the land in the direction we have to go is not so flat as this passed over, there are short ridges & the trees are much thicker, I think it will change quality as we approach the Mountains. At 8 oClock there was every appearance of a thunder squall and a change of Weather, employed ourselves in making a temporary hut to shelter us from the approaching storm, at 9 oClock it came on to blow hard from the

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the NE. with rain, at 3 P.M. rained very heavy with much Lightning and Thunder (rainy weather in the Bush is miserable continued raining with heavy thunder and Lightning all night.

Tuesday 16th
Until 2 oClock this morning it was one of the worst nights I ever experienced, the Lightning and Thunder was awful, it appeared to be immediately over our heads & at a short distance from us a tree was shivered into a number of Pieces, the rain came down in torrents, added to which the wind blew a complete hurricane all around the compass, and as our hut was open on one side and only temporary thatched with small bows and leaves of trees we were soon as bad as if we had no hut at all, having employed the remainder of the time ‘till six oClock in getting ourselves dried, and taking breakfast left to trace up the Creek, at half past 8 oClock halted in consequence of my having a severe attack of the bowels, this I attribute to my having lain so long in wet clothes and being wet nearly up to the middle in travelling this morning. –
until 8 oClock the Country observed the same appearance as that passed over yesterday morning excepting that now the earth is charged with water, and in many parts it is half leg up The Creek is overcharged and running very strong SSE. From the time mentioned (8 oClock) the appearance of the land alters
it runs

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it runs in ridges the ground light and dry, trees much thicker and larger some fit for the purpose of house building. Passed many Huts on our way, on the sides of the Creek they had only left them a few days back, the Grass all around has been burned lately, At Noon we left but the Weather being so hot and sultry we could not travel with much speed, Continued on a ridge with the Creek on our right, and in one hour came to a very pleasing track of Country, it is Hill and Dale with a portion of meadow in part front which joins the Creek Trees very thin, grass and soil excellent, but it is not of any very great extent, this is joined by a similar track to that we had lately left.
Between 3 & 4 oClock appearances indicated another thunder Squall, by this time we had arrived at the foot of the Mountains, we employed ourselves in making a hut but before it was finished it came on not in moderate showers but in a complete deluge, this lasted one hour, the remainder of the night squally with frequent showers of heavy rain, one part of the night from North to South the remainder N.W. thunder always accompanying the rain.

Wednesday 17th – Until 7 oClock this morning squally with rain, at half past, went to the top of one of the Mountains near, the view here was very limited, as in every direction Mountains of a similar height surrounded it, except in the direction we had come, all the Mountains are easily ascended, as the ascent commences long before we arrived at them (I may say many miles) at

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at about 20 or 30 miles distance they appear of an amazing height the soil on them is of a clayey nature as also the ranges leading to them and retain the wet a long time the grass is however long and good, but it is intermixed with a sort of rush or wire grass, Trees, Stringy bark, large but not but  very close together, I have not seen a stone here or on our way the weight of 4 lbs. The Creek which I have been tracing up still continues about W b N. as seen from where I stood and appears to come from the main body of these mountains at 9 returned to the hut and a little after set forward on about N.W., at 11 got to the tops of what I call the S W. mountains from this I got a view of the Bay, and the Country from about S.S.W to E.S.E appears the same as that passed through, The soil here is different to that I was on this morning, here it is of a red Colour light and dry, many stones of a hard grey nature, # and in some respects resemble lime stones, but they are not large, the Grass is long and fresh before descending; I took the following Bearings
Sandy Point (East point of Darling /or French/ Island) S 24E
Red Bluff / West Point of Gordon bay S 26 E
To where I suppose the Entrance to Burchells river to be distance about 30 miles S28 E
Highest part of the range East of Bass’s River S 17 E.
Westermost part of Darling Harbour Island seen from this is S.bW. and the estimated distance from the entrance of West was was afterwards named (Snapper river) to the South Part of these Mountains is about 20 or 22 miles Course N by W and S.b.E. – At Noon the weather being rather warm Stopped

# perhaps Trap rock – or Whin stone - WHH

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stopped on one of the ridges for 2 hours. Timber for building plentiful and good, being large stringy Bark & very tall Gum, shortly after we left, it came on to hail and rain very heavy for some time, and after the second shower it cleared off and became a very fine Afternoon and Evening. As I found it adviseablle to alter the Course from West to WbN our travelling became one continual ascending and descending the collateral branches of the main Mountains, all of which lay North & South (water running South) in doing this I was enabled to judge of the Soil and Timber of the Mountains generally, On many of the ranges the Soil was very good, dry, and the grass fresh and long of an exceedingly good quality, Trees thin but not valuable, on others or perhaps on parts on the opposite side of those last described, the Soil is more of a cold clay nature, grass not very good intermixed with a wirey rush, but the trees of the largest and best quality being generally Stringy Bark, or Black butted Gum. With very few exceptions, it is at all invariably the case, that the best Timber grows on the worst soil, & vica verca best soil produce the worst description of Timbers –
At 6 halted for the night between 2 ranges, running water in the Centre, we find the ground leeches very troublesome as also the Musqueto’s & small fly; I think the distance travelled is about 12 or 13 miles nearly W.N.W.

Thursday 18th. Squally with light showers of rain until 6 oClock got breakfast and left at half past seven, at 9 came to the top of a Mountain from which I could see Arthurs Seat bearing S 25 W. and the
Entrance

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Jany, 1827
Entrance to Western Port. S 18 E. Saw the sea at Port Phillip nearly in a SW. direction. The Soil on this Mountain was exceedingly good. Trees very thin, grass very fine, stone rather course Granite, a Squall came on from the NW with rain, therefore precluded us me from seeing anything that way, (West to NW was the direction I most wished to see) descended & continued the course W b N at half past 10 oClock came to a Creek running very strong to the South, it was deep and having overflowed its banks was very wide and as two of the men could not swim I did not think it adviseable to cross it, was therefore obliged to alter my proposed route that of going to Port Phillip and continue on the East side of the Creek, the distance from where we started this morning to this line is about 8 miles W.b.N. From the time of descending the last Mountain (9.30) ‘till noon the time we stopped and we have been travelling over a very fine, I may say beautiful Country, all Hill and dale, the Creek running between with a wide space of Meadow land a portion of which lays on each side the stream the Grass and Soil on both very good, Trees thin mostly Honeysuckle, Wattle and Gum, I have not seen a more interesting country any where, it is worth the attention of either Farmer or Grazier
At 2 set forward again and continued travelling over the same description of delightful Country till a little after 3 oClock at which time it began to alter appearances of Hill and dale to almost a level, with a great degree of sameness in it, and from the very great quantity of rain which had fallen in these last three days many parts were covered with water through which we had to travel – but the timber is thin and the Grass good, at 4 oClock having travelled about 8 or 9 miles nearly South, the Course of the Creek suddenly turned

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turned to about West, I followed it down ‘till after 5 a distance of about 3 miles and stopped for the night the direction of the stream was then about W.S.W. as I find it will be impossible to reach Port Phillip in consequence of the delay occasioned by bad weather (even should this Creek bend that way) to meet the boat at the appointed time and place. I propose tomorrow to take a course E which I think will bring me to the Entrance of the West River and at the distance of about 25 or 30 miles. Today I saw several Nankeen Birds and two Emus. Passed a number of native huts they are always to be found on the banks of Rivers & Creeks, The Squalls continued ‘till about 3 oClock – Wind some part of the day North latter do West
Friday 19th. At daylight every appearance of rain wind SW. got breakfast and left a little before 7 oClock Course S.E. at 9 came to a wide peice of water the Commencement of a Creek running South, it was about ¼ Mile wide little more than knee deep our course was then alternately good and bad land for some distance, some scrubby, some good land, and on the other parts it was Marshy but speaking generally it is fit for the purposes of Settlers, at half past eleven stopped to refresh having travelled about 10 miles, some parts of the Land has a great deal of timber on it and on others very little, but where that is the case it is very large some

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some would measure 40 feet in circumference but they are always very short in the Barrell /Red Gum, not good/ at 1 oClock two Native men paid us a visit, they had tracked us for some distance having heard us fire at some ducks they left us for a short time and took some tea which had been given them to shew to their friends which were encamped at no great distance from us, but previously to their going, I made them understand that if they brought the Tin Pot back which contained the Tea I would give a Tomahawk in lieu, in half an hour they returned bringing an old man with them who from the great degree of familiarity used towards us, and his examining every thing belonging to the Party with a sort of desire, I strongly suspected him to be a rogue, and cautioned the men against him, I was not long before my suspicions were verefied for having found where the hatchet was put, used by us, he contrived to conceal it under his cloak close up to the armpit and appeared carelessly lounging about at the same time sideing off towards a thick scrub close by, on seeing this I enquired if the hatchet was safe, it was gone and he was going too, but the sight of a Musket pointed towards him brought him back much quicker than he went but reluctantly, knowing the way to treat them on those occasions (not coercively) but by signs the very white people treat each other under such circumstances) we afterwards became good friends & he with the others requested we would accompany them to their Camp, on our near aproach to the camp it the Women & Children retreated, the Men began
to

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to arm themselves with their Spears and called out to those, the (3 men with us to keep the boes (Guns) of which they are in very great dread) further off. Judging the occasion of the alarm I gave my peise to one of my party /all of whom I had desired to keep at a distance/ and went to the Camp alone, on seeing me unarmed they laid down their spears, and became perfectly reconciled, I made them sensible where I had been and where I was going, gave each of them Fishing Hooks (which they knew the use of) and the Tomahawk to the young man who in return gave me the tin pot, and then set forward on our journey, but the old man who had stolen the Hatchet now made up for the breach of good faith by accompanying us to a considerable distance (about a dozen followed) and put us upon a path which he gave me to understand would take me to where a boat can come ( this was the River I wanted to get to and bore exactly S.E., the course I had been keeping) There were several old men among them, but one in particular who appeared to be the Chief was the oldest, the hair on his head as also his Beard, which was very long was perfectly white his legs and arms very small Body large but he appeared in good health and I should judge his age to be about 70 years, they are all in what may be termed good case, and from the cause of their having several good Kangaroo Dogs no doubt live well, they appear very active, and whatever we may think to the contrary, no doubt happy, * They had got their huts on the top of a small Hill a Creek on one side, and at the commencement of

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a very beautiful country, we had three hours travelling on this delightful Country (I use that term for it is being deserving of it) it is in ridges Hill and Dale; the tops of which is a fine fresh vegetable mould, the grass is very fine but so thick and long altho’ young that there is not a spot of Earth to be seen, and there is not more than 2 or 3 trees on an acre (except on the tops of the ranges) I do not know how it is watered, as they (the natives) took us along the range and avoided the flats, I thought the land I passed over and which I described yesterday was the best I had seen anywhere in this direction, but I certainly think this is better, after crossing one or two rather barren but small tracks of land came to a very large plain, having crossed this, and at the distance of  8 or 10 miles from where we started this afternoon or 20 18 to 22 20 from this morning we stopped for the night at half past 6 oClock

[This sentence to be inserted where the previous page * is]
Some of the men and boys had one of the front teeth knocked out, others again had not, the most of them had Curley heads but one or two had lanke, they had parts of several Kangaroos one or two Tin Pots, some pieces of Iron made into Tomahawks and some pieces of woollen cloth, it was observable there had not been so much rain falling here, as we had near the mountains. The plains just crossed I named after Colonel Dumaresq as a mark of respect due to that Gentleman -

Saturday 20th A very fine morning and every appearance of a fine day, a quarter of an hour before 6 oClock we left our resting place and continued our course S.E. through a part of it, a fine open country afterwards patches of Tea Tree brush then Elevation
Or small

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small Conical Hills covered with low Tea Tree Scrub then again through high Ferns, stunted Trees with short green branches growing out from the bottom and have the appearance of vines growing up crooked black poles by these signs I was sure I we were not far from the Beach or River near the Entrance having gone about 4 miles, at 7 came to the spot where we were landed last Sunday and at the moment of our arrival the boat arrived also. that we met at one and the same time, agreeably to my request I have received provisions till next Tuesday to enable me to examine the Country and the 3 Rivers mentioned by Captain Weatherall laying between this (From our having caught several large Snappers in this river I have to distinguish it, given it that name) and Burchell’s River On going round by the Beach to the West shooting I found another small river, or Creek coming in at the entrance of this, at about ¼ mile from where we stopped, at the same time I found fresh water an article which the boats Crews of the Fly & the Dragon were not fortunate enough to find when they visited this place and which they were so much in need of at the time, it is about 200 or 300 yards in the bush SW from this Tent 20 yards from the beach and about double that distance from the Creek, East of it, after filling the Keg with water I left at 3 oClock the tide then answering for the purpose – Boats coming here should land on the first steep bank on the West side or right bank by so doing they will avoid the brush and Scrub which the left (East) bank is full of, at 5 arrived at the Westermost of the 3 Rivers (mentioned) above) it is not so large as the one last left

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that being about 150 feet wide this is not more than 100 its course North & South, on the left on Entering is a Salt Water Creek branching off nearly West, high standing trees between it and the Bay, on the South side quite clear and it appears to be all made land, on Entering the River, and before I came to the Creek, I found the water to be quite fresh, but on arrival at the Creek it was Salt, this I suppose is occasioned by a fresh in the River from the late rains but which did not effect the Water in the Creek, and that the fresh water floated on the top of the Salt (I think I am right in my supposition as several small Sharks were caught in it) after landing the People etc I took 4 men with me in the Boat to examine the River higher up, at the distance of about ½ mile it branches off into a number of seperate streams, and at the head of every stream which is not more than from one to three hundred yards from the main one, it is closed by a very high impenetrable Tea Tree Brush through this the water was running very strong, and as there was about 2 feet fall, and there being such a number, the noise was so great that it was impossible to hear each other speak. Finding that all the branches ended in the same way I returned to where I intend stopping till tomorrow’s high tide, in the meantime I shall examine the land adjoining this stream on both sides, I should have observed before, that one of the Sealers and his black wife came up in the boat for the purpose if possible of seeing if a Country woman of the Girls is in any of the tribes of Natives that reside generally about these rivers, It appears that

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that she and another (both from Van Diemens Land) had run from the Sealers six years back, and joined one or other of the tribes; The way these men get those Girls and women is by purchasing or more properly speaking bartering for them of the different Chiefs along the East Coast of Van Diemens land, when the trade first commenced a girl could be got for a peice of a dead Seal, or porpoise now they require Bread, Flour, or Kangaroo Dogs, I have been told by those who have had dealings in these articles of barter, that some of the Girls leave their friends without any sort of regret, this I think cannot be believed for according to the old adage, “home is home be it ever so homely”, others they say make strong resistance but that the Chiefs authority is absolute, in the course of time and after a little training they become expert Sealers, much the best hunters, dirty domesticks, and much worse Cooks, Over these women (though speaking generally they use them tolerably well) they exercise a sort of Sultans authority, which they could not do over their own Countrywomen, Some hundred of these women are bartered for in this way, and some of the men have got two of them, taking them as a whole they are not very prolific.
[3 lines of indecipherable text are crossed out here.]

Sunday 21st. Every appearance of a fine day wind blowing fresh from S.W., at daylight traced the Creek up about one mile when it branches off and ends in
small

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small streams, between the Tea Tree and the Creek is a native Path this leads over small Conical hills covered with Tea Tree Scrub, this again into a very extensive Marsh, high wads Knee deep in water, and appears to extend some distance to the East, beyond this again is a ridge of high land, moderately covered with timber, the water in the marsh becoming too deep to wade thro’, returned after two hours & half absence,
I could [sense?] that the Range was not more than one and half miles from us ( it was green and fresh, the Soil as far as I can judge good) it appears to run N.[indecipherable] of S.E. 

[Note on side referring to crossed out writing] This should not have been crossed, as the mistake in the appearance of this place is accounted for on the 16th of the following month.

After Breakfast crossed the River and went to the Eastward to try to get round the Tea Tree Brush, but at about the distance of ½ a mile came to another river (one of the three) – The Land, the River (which is about the same size as the one we are encamped along upon) and the tea tree brush, have the same appearance as the last described the brush was thick & higher therefore could not see beyond it the brush - at 4 PM left with intention of going into the last of these three rivers but it blowing strong from the SW. which made a Surf on the Shore, and not knowing the Entrance into it I ran for Burchells river where I arrived at 5, as soon as landed I took two soldiers with me and went up the River to where I we had previously left a blanket for the natives, but found it as I had been left it , returned at ½ past seven – Still blowing hard but clear weather.

Monday 22d. – at Sun rise set out on foot, west to reach the river I we could not gain in the boat last night Keeping

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Keeping the shore in view, but at a little distance from it, arrived at the Entrance in about 4 miles from the Camp, traced it up which is less than two miles taking all its windings, Ends the same as the other two, but one of the branches turns due South. Excepting that the left or East bank is clear from Tea Tree but ends in a Reedy Marsh as described on the first of the three Rivers, the Range which was yesterday seen to the Eastward is now seen in a Westerly direction the Marsh goes to the foot of it and ends parallel /North and South/ a little to the East of this River. it is therefore evident that all these three rivers are supplied from one and the same source viz as Capt Weatherall is I believe the first that visited these rivers, I have named them Weatheralls three rivers or Inlets, the Marshes which first receive its supplies from the Mountains.

- Having arrived at a fine open level track of Country perhaps 8 or 10 miles from the shore which leads to the range before described I returned 

Therefore as a guide to others that may follow after landing upon the right or west bank of the River, a course of about NW by W or NW will take them up the range without touching upon the Marsh or rivers which will be left to the Southward and which of themselves have got little or no interest. 

– It being too late for me last night to cross the river (on my way to where the Blanket was left) to examine the land on the opposite side, I  sent a party out for that purpose to cross it at a place I marked out where I thought it appeared most favourable, at 10 returned they report that they had much difficulty in getting through the very thick brush, Trees and Underwood, across the creek but one of the branches turns due South across the creek but on arrival at the opposite bank, the Country appeared nearly the same as on this, only that it was more thickly covered with large timber, the grass was young and fresh, the Soil dry & good, this was the appearance of the whole from
ES.E.

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E.S.E. to N. that the impenetrable Tea Tree brush & Scrub along the line of Coast to the South & East does not run more than one mile inland, and from what they saw and are able to judge of it, from the top of one of the trees, it is as good and as easy of access as it is on this ridge A little after 5 oClock this afternoon left Burchells River (the tide then answering) for Red Bluff, but the Wind blowing fresh from the South and the Boat not being adapted for the purpose, we were till nine oClock before we reached the Spot, a distance of only about six miles. –

Tuesday 23d. at daylight set off on foot with my party to examine the land about this quarter, at the distance of two miles (Red Bluff being a long projecting point) I sent three men to follow the line of Coast to the head of Gordon bays to the East of this, to take notice of the quality of Soil & timber and whether fresh water was plentiful, & an open Country to the East, and for two men and myself to trace the West side, and Centre of the range. – From the Extreme point (South) for two or three miles is good land, thin of trees and Grassy, the Centre of this ridge is the highest part laying about NbE. at the End of this ridge about 12 miles it is joined by another (somewhat higher), at right angles, this appears to run nearly on a line with the Beach – but along the Coast, being between 2 or 3 miles from Red Bluff, towards Burchells River, is one impassable tea tree brush and Scrub as described on the 13th Inst., this appears not to extend 3 miles inland for at that distance a line of high close trees are observable up to which I think the Tea Tree comes, and from what I could judge I thought
they

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they joined, or nearly so, those trees which had been seen from the other river, if so, there can be no difficulty in crossing the Country from this to Snapper River and from this by keeping along the ridge to the Mountains N.N.E from this place. - at the end of two hours walk in about 6 miles I crossed the range in an Easterly direction towards the bay on that side, The Soil, the Timber, & Grass is the Counterpart of that I  just left (viz, Soil midling Grass generally good with Patches of Tea Tree Scrub. Timber thick and good mostly Stringy bark, but the water brackish from the Salt water sometimes following into it, I saw none but that which is in the tea tree brushes close to the Beach, at half past nine I returned, got breakfast and made sail for the Settlement at 10, just in time to save tide there about to go the distance of about 10 miles. –

The Party I sent Eastwardly report that the close tea tree brush commences about the same distance (2 or 3 miles as on the West side that it continue the same for 2 miles but immediately at the end, Forest timber comes close down to the beach a range is observed extending Eastwardly on a line with the Coast & about 2 miles from it branching off from the one running North (the one I was then upon) and appears to end (eastwardly) at about 4 or 5 miles from them at a low bushy range, it is the one that comes within 3 or 4 miles of the Settlement, the land they passed over was open forest well timbered, good grass and easy travelling but little good water, they had returned about half an hour before me. – Arrived at the Settlemt. About noon found that a great deal of rain and hail had fallen during my our absence. –

Wednesday 24th. Fine clear weather but blowing fresh from the Southwest to the place about a mile East of

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of the Settlement, where there had been lately found a quantity of good timber fit for sawing (Stringy bark) Carpenters splitting shingles out of it for the houses The Logged Hut is nearly finished which is building for the Prisoners, the other being too small and not in a god situation this on the contrary is on a dry hilly spot it is thatched and to be plastered – Earth is dug for making bricks and to morrow the maker begins to mould them - The Well has 13 feet water in it, it appears to encrease but it is rather brackish. –

January Thursday 25th. Fine clear pleasant weather calm the fore part of the day but fresh breezes from SE towards evening, I went with Mr Burchell to visit Fort Dumaresq, on Phillip Island, followed the line of road which Captain Weatherall had employed a part of his Ships Crew in making It is rather of a Serpentine course from two to four feet wide and was intended as a line of communication between the South Shore and the Fort, had Capt W. finished it, a spot near the fort or at the Fort itself, would answer best for a Pilots Residence (as there is no other spot nearer the entrance would do, there being no fresh water) and by the means of this road he could visit the South Shore everyday to see if any Vessells were coming in in sight, a small hill near the line of road, but a little south of it, would answer well as a look out place, I think it is about 3 ½ miles long, taking all its windings, and about 2 or 2 ½ Miles would finish it – Snakes are very numerous on this Island, and of a very dangerous description (principally large black ones) and as the day was very warm, they were basking in the Sun across the road, three were killed and another I unguardedly trod upon, but escaped unhurt, The Guard stationed at the Fort, have, since they have been here, raised the roof of the house the old

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the old one laid too flat and admitted the rain; commenced digging another well nearer the beach, got water which is something better than that contained in the other two, which had been dug by Captain Weatherall’s direction, A Soldier is left in charge of the Guns & Flag Staff, and the Sealers have got permission to make a Garden, the Soil is well calculated for that purpose – brought up some Excellent potatoes from Scotts Garden and arrived at 8 oClock in the Evening.

Friday 26th. & Saturday 27th.
Squally all day with rain Wind SW. nothing remarkable except that we had Raddishes the first fruits of our garden

Sunday 28th. & Monday 29th.
Still blowing hard from the same quarter with frequent light showers of rain, This Weather commenced one day before the New Moon, and at present no appearance of an early change, Today (Monday) I measured the distance from the Settlement or rather Township to Battery Point One and half mile. –

Sunday 30th.
All day blowing weather from same quarter and towards evening more moderate but occasional light showers of rain. I  accompanied Mr Burchell to Shell Point (the long Point north of Bass’s River, where it is proposed to burn lime if there is a sufficiency of shells for that purpose) find them to be in abundance apparently plentiful and tomorrow 4 Men Commence. Distance from Battery Point to fresh water Lagoon 1 ½ miles - From Lagoon to a small Creek which falls into the sea and is [salt at?] Spring tides nearly 1 ½ miles From this again to Shell Point 1 ¾ Miles - From Settlement to Lagoon 1 ¼ Mile S22W. From Lagoon to Garden 1 ¼ Mile & 1 Furlong. N 60 E. From Garden to above Flagstaff ½ mile & 1 Furlong NbW
Bay Perambulator. -

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Wednesday 31st. – Throughout the day very fine but thunder towards the North; prepared for a journey to east Entrance and that part of the South Coast which I did not examine on my journey to Shallow Lagoon. – Left the Settlement at 9 oClock, went with Mr Burchell to visit the lime burners at Shell Point, he afterwards accompanied me to where I propose crossing Bass’s river and where the men of my the party (two Soldiers & two Prisoners) had arrived before us. -
At 5 PM. Mr. Burchell left for home but the man I sent as a guide, lost the line of marked trees, he had to return in consequence & it being too late to get home before dark he remained with me for the night, Saw the greatest number of Kangaroos in one flock today I ever saw before I think there must have been at least 100, shot one, day throughout fine and pleasant.

Friday 2d- February 1827 –
First part of the day cloudy, but it cleared off and became a very fine day – at a little after sunrise Mr Burchell left for home – at 10 the tide having ebbed sufficiently I passed over the river (on a tree which had fallen across) Kept along its banks ‘till near its Entrance afterwards between the beach and the tea tree scrub which runs up to the foot of McLeay’s range in a SW. direction, into this scrub which is not accessible for us, the water from the range lodged, from this again it is drained off into a salt water Creek which falls into Bass’s river near its entrance, there appears to be a continued line of this vile scrub for at least 4 or 5 miles. On arrival at the range I found it not to answer my Expectations, the Soil not being so good timber small, but very close, a great deal of low brush and fern where that is the case there is a little or no grass and what is worse there is no water [indecipherable] some (and that in small quantities) and so strongly impregnated
with

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with alum that it does not allay the thirst only for the moment, other quite bitter from the quantity of leaves falling into it, even these pools are only to be  found in places where the water has hollowed out the Earth & Stone and made small reservoirs, & the Surplus falls into the sea immediately under, but for about a mile from the point at East Entrance there is not any water to be found, the Soil being Sand absorbs all the rain that falls, & it was ‘till near Sundown before we succeeded in getting as much as would answer for Supper and Breakfast, but this was near the Sea Coast at the outer Entrance, and of the same quality as the other, the Land here is high, Soil light but not good, very thick of low Stunted trees (Forest Oak) with low brush, excepting at or near the point as the north side of the Entrance, the land ends abruptly towards the Bay, and the opposite side of the Entrance facing Cape Wallamai and in many parts ends in perpendicular Bluffs, there is not any of those fine genteel slopes necessary to give the land a picturesque appearance, but the want of water is worse than all, I saw to day a great number of the same description of Cockatoos as I saw on this Coast in 1824 and which I described as being all white outside but on rising the feathers are found to be red.

Saturday 3d. Throughout the day the weather has been excessively warm, I may say hot, at 9 oClock left, the tide about this time having receded sufficiently for me to make my researches among the rocks along the South Coast in hopes of finding more Coal etc etc for this purpose I took one man with me, and sent the other three to keep along the top of the range (McLeays) ‘till they find it exceeds the distance of one & half miles from

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from the Sea Coast but to keep that distance from it and to meet me at the Salt water Creek where I had crossed it in December last on my way to Shallow Lagoon, All the projecting points I  passed to day, observe the same appearance as those on both sides Cape Patterson, the flat surface of rock which is covered at high tide is of the same quality, (fine grey sand stone) great quantities of Petrified Wood It is perhaps worthy of remark here that so perfect is its appearance to its original state, that there would be no little difficulty in tracing it to what class of wood it formerly belonged, some pieces shew the bark on, and all looked as if it could be as easily cut as wood itself, some have been peices of roots, others branches, but those which have the most singular appearance are the butts of the trees which have the roots branching off from it, but the whole is so firmly embedded in the stone that I could not succeed in getting a peice off longer than an Hens Egg, I found some Coal but it was not in any quantity, it is found in small patches not in regular veins as at Cape Patterson, The Beauties of nature are strongly marked and observable in every part of this Coast, where the Sea washes strong against the Cliffs, which is generally fine soft sand stone, with thin irregular veins of stone of a much harder substance running through it in every direction, upon this the sea does not make that impression as upon the other softer, therefore it projects, consequently the resemblances of Samples of different orders are beautiful described but they are quite in miniature, there are several large Coves, some are supported by Props or Pillars forming arches, others are not, and would hold three or four hundred men, indeed there is always something fresh and pretty to releive the Eye
[sentence along the side of the page] The day was excessively hot the men and I knocked up

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Eye, but although I was enjoying the beauties of nature, both the man and myself were suffering for the want of a drink of good water, all we got (which at no time was plentiful) was either brackish or aluminous which increased, rather than allayed our thirst, at 5 oClock joined the other party a little West of the place appointed and at 6 arrived at the Lagoon, one mile east of the Salt Creek where we were enabled to get a draught of good fresh water, they had suffered nearly as much for the want of it as the Man and myself, not having been fortunate enough to find any during their whole line of march – They report that the Soil generally speaking is moderately good, but that there is not so much grass as is usually found on such land, in the place of which it is superseded by ferns and low brush. Timber of a stunted quality, generally Gum, Forest Oak, Honey Suckle, and patches of Tea Tree, and towards the Coast in places there is no trees, but a good deal of low brush the whole of the land lays very high (say) from the East Entrance to the Salt water Creek, the Bluff always perpendicular and very high, some overhangs, consequently there can be no resevoirs for water, Kangaroos are in abundance and of the largest Kind, having such a fine shade from the hot Sun and flies

Sunday 4th. In the middle of the night it came on to blow very hard from the SW. and there was every appearance of a change of weather, towards midday frequent light showers of rain. – The quantity of bad water which the party had drank yesterday has had a sensible effect on all, it has occasioned a slight degree of dysentery, sickness at stomach and Griping in the bowels, I was in consequence desirous if possible of getting home before any of us got worse, for this purpose we set of at ten oClock taking returning by the road I had
gone

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gone towards Shallow Lagoon, on the 18th of December. –
At 2 oClock crossed Bass’s river but one of the men being too unwell to proceed, rested for the night on its banks; towards Evening it blew a complete gale from SW. with frequent heavy showers of rain. –

Monday 5th. Throughout the night and until noon it blew very hard from the same quarter as yesterday, accompanied with heavy rain, left our resting place about 9 oClock and arrived at the Station about noon, the man much better. –

From Tuesday the 6th to the afternoon of Saturday 10th. the weather has been very warm in the middle of the day hot and sultry, but about 4 oClock of the latter day it became cloudy and appeared as if there would be some bad weather from the East Southward. To day (Saturday) I went in the boat to Fort Dumaresq to arrange with the Sealers for the landing of my party and self on the West side of the bay for the purpose of Examining the land etc on that side, they are to come on Monday afternoon for that purpose . Three Boat loads of very good lime has been brought up from Shell Point, Carpenters shingling and weatherboarding the house intended for the Stores. –

Sunday 11th. About one oClock this morning it began to rain and blow fresh from the South and continues ‘till about noon, the remainder of the day cloudy with occasional light showers.

Monday 12th - This afternoon 3 of the Sealers came according to appointment, I agreed to give them 2 [indecipherable] Tobacco and 7 days rations each, to land us at the Red bluff to wait at Snapper River until I arrive there, which I expect will be in four days and on the 24th Int. to meet me at Sandy Point nearly opposite their Garden to bring us from thence to the Settlement – My object for being landed at Red bluff is first if possible to get

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to get to the range which seperates Bass’s river from the Bay, afterwards to go Westwardly ‘till I cross Snapper River if I can succeed in doing this through a passable Country it will hereafter be the line of communication between the best part of this Country and the Settlement, that which I call the best part is, what lies west of Snapper river, from thence I anticipate an easy communication with the interior Northwardly

Tuesday 13th. – Throughout the day fine and pleasant, left the Settlement with my party (two Soldiers and three Prisoners) at 11 oClock in the Sealers boat and landed a little to the East of Red bluff at 1 PM. – at first landing I had some difficulty in getting through a close tea tree Scrub with which the shore 2 miles East of the bluff is lined with, but after getting through I arrived at an open forest Country, kept a Northwardly course along the centre of a ridge ‘till it ended in a Marsh, here rested for the night it being about 5 oClock, this was the only water I had met with since landing, until about half an hour before stopping, the land was good as also the grass and timber. –

Wednesday 14th. February Throughout the day cloudy, and every appearance of rain, left the halting place at 6 oClock passed through a track of good country, thin of timber this lasted 2 hours, from that time till ten oClock it was alternately good and bad, in many parts it was so thick of very high Tea Tree and bushes * It was here I found great quantities of very fine (I may say fine for to me it appeared [indecipherable] fruit to day, it is a sort of currant about the size of a small Pea, and a beautiful red very sweet – grows very close seperately but not in bunches, on very high bushes, any quantity could be got but I found the most where the TeaTree brush was the closest, and where the soil was the best as well as being moist * - that it was with difficulty got through & in wet seasons it has the appearance of being covered with water, about this time (10) the close brush and scrub became quite

*[Inserted at this point and on the side of the page there is a description of fruit as follows:]
It was here I found great quantities of very fine (I may say fine for to me it [appeared?] fruit to day, it is a sort of currant about the size of a small pea and a beautiful red very sweet grows very close and separately but not in bunches, on any high bushes any quantity could be got but I found the most where the Tree brush was the closest, and where the Soil was the [best?] as well as being moist. There was no acidity in the fruit.

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quite impenetrable I was in consequence obliged (at the distance of ten or twelve miles from the Red bluff) to abandon the Idea of reaching the Mountains to the North and keep a course about W.SW. through a low Scrub in the direction for the Entrance of Burchells river, though this was great difficulty of getting in consequence of the repeated burnings it has had, and the small trees (or Poles) being too close to admit of their falling flat, fall across each other above our heads which we had to break down or push on one side, this of course very much impeded our progress, and including our chances [indecipherable] in the middle of it, we were six hours and half getting through a distance of not more than 4 or 5 miles (and no water the whole time) this was accomplished at half past four, from that time till 6 (at which time we arrived at Burchells river) travelled over a very pleasant country open and covered with good grass, crossed it and halted on the right bank of the Stream about one mile from the Entrance - There are small patches on this brush that are quite clear, it appears that where the fire has laid the wood quite flat that it partially decays, by reason of the frequency of the water passing over it, vegetation soon takes place and a sort of grass grows on it, but the wood is seen lying across each other in places 8 or 10 Inches above the original surface, I mention this as one reason for supposing that most of the land on this side, and which is now above the reach of floods has been formed in a similar way. –

Thursday 15th. – Very fine and Summer like weather after breakfast left the River, proceeded onward Wb[indecipherable] followed a native path which brought us to the Eastermost of Weatheralls 3 Rivers (or inlets) but as my object was to endeavour to find a passage through the Country in a NW. direction, without having to cross deep rivers, I left this spot and went northwardly keeping along the edge of a very thick Scrub to the distance of 3 or 4 miles but finding it continued the

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Same description of bush and scrub to the distance 3 or 4 miles as far as as far as I could discern by the eye from the top of one of the trees, I returned to where the natives cross the River, at a place where it branches off into two, It being near low tide crossed without any difficulty not more than one mile from the entrance about ¾ mile from this stream nearly west, came to the middle river, it being too wide and too deep to cross here followed up, to where it branches off into a number of Streams, crossed several but obliged to wait till near low tide ( 6 P.M. ) before we could cross (as I thought) the last and the principal one, but after crossing this and not more than 100 yards from it came to another much broader and deeper, but it was now nearly dark and was therefore obliged to Encamp for the night on its banks

Friday 16th
Throughout the day excessively warm immediately after breakfast (8 oClock) crossed the branch making sure it was the last, but at 150 yards found my mistake, as there was another of equal size to cross before arrival at the last of these rivers, but although the water was somewhat higher than the others we crossed it without getting either the arms or provisions wet and at 10 came to the last or westermost of the three rivers, and crossed it as we had done the others, being about 5 feet water & mud and of such a quality, that it is with great exertions & difficulty that we could extricate ourselves one leg before the other was fast. If there is any difference in the size [indecipherable] the Rivers, I think the middle one has the advantage, but they are all from 80 to 100 feet wide, and all the land adjoining them from the beach to the Tea Tree brush at the head [indecipherable] distance from 1 to ½ miles) is very good, it is all made from the deposits or washings from the land above. The Tea Tree brush at the head of these streams is impassable One of the men

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the men tried to get round by heading them but he found he was not equal to the task, and was obliged to return, from the nature of the Country being very boggy, and the brush so very close – That which had been taken for a range at the [back?] – or north of this brush on 21 Ult. is only a line of higher trees than the tea trees among which they are growing, but I now find that they now stand in the same swampy ground as that already described, I found after crossing the last river, that I must alter my plan of getting to Snapper River by going through the bush in a NW direction, it became like the other I may say impassable, I returned to the Coast and continued near it till I arrived at the River where I found the boat waiting for us it being then 2 oCk I sent them home with instructions to look out for a smoke as a signal this day week, opposite to their huts near the Entrance of the bay, as all the fresh water was dried up which was plentiful when last I was here, I left about 4 oClock and proceeded NW 1 ½ mile when I came to a plentiful supply in a Tea Tree brush and halted for the night Until 5, oClock the wind blew fresh from the North, it suddenly shifted to the SW. blew hard and every appearance of a change of weather. –

Saturday 17th. After breakfast proceeded onward keeping a course all day S 50 W. crossed Dumaresqs plains and after passing through some good forest land came to a ridge of healthy land, which ended in Hills of a Conical form of the same quality about equal distance from Western Port and Port Phillips the land on the north side of this ridge, & parralel to it, is exceedingly fine, open and grassy, from one to two miles south of our track, is a line of high trees which I think is the Extent of this heathy ridge in that direction, halted one hour and about 3 oClock arrived at the end of this description of Country and began

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began to descend gradually towards the West through a beautiful track of Country, grass up to our middle very thick and fresh, this continued till 6 oClock, at which time stopped for the night, but from that time there appears rather a deficiency of water, at least no great quantities laid in our route, the day throughout has been cloudy blowing hard from the West with frequent showers of rain
One heavy shower of large hail and Rain. –

Sunday 18th. The whole of the day has been exceedingly pleasant Wind West, at 8 oClock having had breakfast left our halting place & shortly after crossed a very extensive plain N 60 W. this appears to extend for miles to the right & left of our track, the Soil is of a marshy quality, grass coarse & [twiney?], adjoining to these plains are equally as extensive marshes, these I found it necessary to cross due west at a part where it appeared the narrowest. (to have gone round would have taken me a day at least) & where a heathy hill and a short line of high trees appeared to stand in the middle or to seperate one marsh from another, in three hours I had arrived at the opposite or West side of this Marsh, but the fatigue was so great in consequence of high reeds, water up to the middle, and a short close tea tree scrub, & stumps the strike>roots of those which were broken I counted [indecipherable] which are dead, frequently tripped the men up, and threw them on their faces, immediately on getting through, one of two men who had been unwell from cold since crossing the last rivers, was taken with swimming in the head, & immediately fell to the ground. I in consequence halted for the remainder of the day, it being then 2 oClock, - The Spot I am now upon is a narrow strip or ridge of Vegetable sand, of not more than from two to three hundred yards wide, an embankment evidently made by the washings of the sea, and when it is high tide in the bay (Port Phillip) the waters
in

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in the Marsh are about on a level with the Sea it at 5 this afternoon two of the Men that had gone to the indecipherable Beach to shoot ducks, suddenly came upon a reconnoitering party of natives, who as suddenly made their retreat as soon as discovered, through a thick part of Marsh, the men made signals to them to stop, but to no effect. –

Monday 19th. – A little after sunrise commenced our march along the beach towards the head of the bay and at 8 oClock came to a small outlet for water which on following up a short distance I found to be a broad and deep ravine and a small creek coming from the marsh into it after crossing stopped to breakfast and shortly after, nine of the natives paid us a visit unarmed after a long gossip and a great deal of talk (not a word of which I we could understand they took their leave, indecipherable first giving each of them a fishing hook and about the same time (11, oClock) I we left also, from this time till nearly 1 PM the land fronting the sea gradually rose till it got to the height of about 200 feet perpendicular, the sea immediately under, and continued the same undiminished height till nearly the end of this days journey but those parts which are the highest are generally the worst land, sort of heath no trees growing on it, the other parts are generally mostly good soil, but no large trees grow on it, only forest oak and Honeysuckle, the grass although not thick is good & fresh, but there appears to be a great deficiency of water, this perhaps is owing to my keeping so near to the Coast, I observed the greatest quantity of Skate in the bay and Musquetoes in the bush I ever witnessed before, Being satisfied as to the precise spot which terminated the journey of Mr Hume and myself in 16th Decr. 1824, I left the bay at a little after 4 oClock in search of water in a NE direction but I found in half an hour after I intend therefore to turn to the place appointed tomorrow after breakfast.

Tuesday 20th. The day throughout has been fine and summer like weather, left the halting place before 6 oClock Keeped

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Kept a course about N E. mostly through a variety of country
Of good and bad some are ridges of apparently sand but very thick of stringy bark, and others had no timber on them only brush, but generally speaking the land is all well timbered at 9 arrived at some water holes the first passed this morning & stopped to breakfast at 2 commenced on return, Course S by E from that time ‘till 4 the Country was bad, all heath little good timber, but to the Eastward nearer the Mountains appeared open forest covered with a good coat of grass from the time last mentioned the land improved as well in appearances as in quality, and at a little before 6 oClock arrived at the north side of this very extensive marsh which we crossed on Sunday last from this spot it appeared to be at least 6 oClock arrived at the north side of this very extensive marsh which we crossed on Sunday last from this spot it appeared to be at least 6 miles wide East & West but drew towards a point Westwardly a line of high trees South W. and a bank of somewhat higher land than the marsh, gave me reason to suppose that the river crossed on Monday last was connected with the marsh to which a native path led us through a much easier rout than I at first anticipated an animal on its banks about ¾ mile from the Entrance, at Sundown where we halted for the night. –

Wednesday 21st. - All night it was cloudy showery but cleared off at 8 oClock and became a very fine day, Wind blowing fresh from the West, a little after Sunrise left for the purpose of following up this supposed river, judging it to be the same I could not [indecipherable] on the 18th of last month, but at a very little distance above the halting place, it ended in a number of small [indecipherable] from different parts of the marsh, thus the river mentioned above, which I could not cross ended in a Marsh / and this commenced above as the distance was too great to attempt to cross it to the forest land East of us, and there being no natural path in that direction I was obliged to return to the beach and go round the South end of it, at 9 came to the halting place of Sunday last

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last and stopped breakfast. – Shot two very large birds they appear something between a crane and a Native Companion are about the size of the latter, plumage of Slate color the head is devoid of feathers, but covered with a dark red smooth fleshy substance coarse black hair under the throat, and along straight dark green beak, flesh rather coarse but good eating when made into broth – (Native companion I have since seen others) - at 1 left continued along the beach until we got to the end of the Marsh and then struck off SE. towards a hilly range which appears to be connected with the range at Arthur’s Seat the nature of the Country between this and the Mountains to the North and as far as Snapper river to the East being almost a level and there being but one outlet (the one crossed this morning & Wednesday last) for the whole of the water that falls within that space, I suppose is the cause of such an extensive collection of it. The Embankment which seperates it from the sea has evidently been made by the sand which has been washed up in the course of time Before leaving the beach a very large tribe of Natives joined us, I counted more than 100 Men Women and Children a part of them were of the tribe met with on the 19th Ulto, among the number was the old man who that stole the hatchet, and the young man I had given the Tomahawk to; I gave the most of the men & boys a fishing hook each, and left them, they tried every inducement to get me to remain with my party among them all night, as they were to have a Corroboree this evening, but I did not consider it safe, I do not think they would injure us, but I thought it was very likely if they could get a chance they would take away our clothes, The women in point of regularity of features, are the best I have seen in the Colony, they are more of them young and healthy, & each had a child, both men & women had good coverings made from the skins of the Kangaroo, they had several fine Kangaroo dogs by which they get their principal support. Having arrived at a convenient spot for water at about [two?] miles from the natives halted for the night, I think the Marsh cannot be less than from 12 to 15 miles long and

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and one mile at the narrowest part with only the one outlet (the river left this morning) for the whole, this M[indecipherable] and Plains I afterwards learned the Party had named after myself. (Hovells plains & Marsh)
Thursday 22d – Same weather as yesterday proceeded on after breakfast Course S 30 [E?] for about one hour the land was of the same quality as that passed over last Evening (heathy) after that time it improved & became open forest land, soil light but grassey with here and there patches of brush, timber not of a very good quality, at 2 halted for 2 hours & then set forward again the land passed over till 5 oClock was not so good as last, but after that time till 6 it improved, came to a salt water creek which by following up got fresh where we remained for the night. –

Friday 23rd. – For part of the day clear pleasant weather, towards Evening cloudy and some appearance of a change. – The Country passed through from 9 oClock ‘till noon, (with some few exceptions) is not good mostly heathy nor is there much good timber in any part of it & very little fresh water, but after crossing a Creek which comes out at the North side of the Sandy point (west from Tortoise head) it is good open forest land and the grass very long and fresh, arrived at the beach at 4 oClock about 6 miles below Sandy Point in direction of Cape Schanck, returned to the point at 8 & made a smoke as a signal to the Sealers agreeably to the former arrangement. –

Saturday 24th. – Some time in the night the Sealers boat arrived, but as they had to visit their garden before taking us to the Settlement, we remained ‘till [noon?] before they returned, at sunset arrived at the Settlement in the course of the night we had a few light showers of rain but towards morning it cleared off & the day became very fine Wind SE. --- Since we have been away Michael

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Michael Cain a most notorious character who has been flogged at every penal station, and cannot have received less than four thousand lashes besides other punishments ran into the bush, but after 3 days absence he returned almost naked having (as he stated) been stripped by the natives as well as beaten, but this he acknowledged afterwards to be false, he was sentenced to receive 50 lashes but was taken down at 30, the Surgeons opinion being that he was unable to receive more. - The Creek where we usually got water being dried to beyond the distance of one mile, two horses are employed to bring it in small casks, on the Pack saddles from the Lagoon, South of Battery Point – The framework of a new weatherboard House & Kitchen intended as the Commandants residence is putting up, and another and another Well is commenced near the Site of the Government House * This note is in page 81 to brought forward

Sunday 25th. – Yesterday and today the bush was set on fire to the East of the Settlement by the natives, some of our men went to endeavour to get an interview with them but they (the Natives) retreated.

Monday 26th. the weather very warm & sultry.

Wednesday 28th *
* Same weather – the notorious Michael Cain has again taken french leave and is gone in the bush, having taken with him the remainder of his weeks Provisions, as also that of several of his fellow Prisoners, Two Tomahawks, the Surgeons Scissors his Blanket a Razor etc, I have some reason to fear he will join the natives if he can meet with them – The Blacksmith has got up his forge and commences work tomorrow, and a Kiln of 10-000 Bricks will be set fire to, tomorrow. –

Thursday, Friday & Saturday – weather excessively warm and sultry – a Party in the Boat gone fishing at the East Entrance today. –

Sunday 4th. – Cain returned to the settlement and gave himself up. –
Monday 5th

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Monday 5th – Very sultry during the day but cloudy towards the latter part, & in the evening light showers of rain. – Michael Cain on being brought up in charge of a soldier to have charges preferred against him & to receive that punishment which he so justly deserves, suddenly drew out the razor, which he had stolen, and which he had concealed about his person & attempted suicide, by cutting his throat but was prevented from doing it effectually by the Soldier wresting the razor from him, but in doing it, he received a slight cut in his own hand. – The Surgeon being near at the time sewed up the wound & Cain is in a fair way of recovery. –

Tuesday 6th. & Wednesday 7th. Days clouday & some appearance of rain, in the night a few light showers, Bricklayers commenced building a chimney to the new Kitchen – Water in the creek gets very scarce, indeed there is very little in it, and we shall be obliged to go to another place of fresh water some distance further to the from the Settlement –

Thursday 8th & Friday 9th. Some clear summer like weather. About noon of the latter day the Prisoners Barrack and the Overseers Hut was unfortunately burned down to the ground with several of the poor mens clothes etc The accident was occasioned by a spark of fire from the Blacksmiths shop, this communicated with some grass intended for thatch, & this again to the dry grass lying round the huts, & in less than ten minutes both were destroyed –

Monday 12th A very cold and a clouday day, and some appearance of a change prisoners making themselves a new hut –

Tuesday 13 – Very hot day. Removed the stores into the new Store Houseou

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March
These last 4 days clouded in the mornings, but in the day fine and pleasant, Shingling the roof and building a chimney to Govt House, still going on digging the Well, no appearance of water at 40 feet –

Sunday 18th Foggey in the night, and cloudy till 8 oClock, afterwards a very fine day – Between 8 & 9 oClock this morning received the Gratifying news of a ship being in the Bay – at 1 PM she came to anchor off the Settlement, I went on board, and found her to be the Philip Dundass ( S Scarvell Commander) from Sydney, with Cattle, Sheep, Piggs & Supplies for this new colonized place, she will return to Sydney and by her I intend to return also – towards the evening landed all the Sheep

Monday 19th. Very warm day landed two Boat loads of goods – and 5 cows, none of which has been seen but once since - The grass being so very dry, the country appears to be on fire all around us –

Tuesday 20th Weather very variable and some appearance of a change, it was colder this Evening than I have experienced it for some time past
Landed the Pigs – 2 Cows & the Bull –

Wednesday 21st – Blew fresh from the South, The Brig (Dundass) moved into the inner Channel, and moved up to within a ¼ Mile of the landing place at the Settlement, and moored her head and stern in the middle of the Stream in 2 fathoms – a little above where she laid, is a place forming a bason, in this there is 4 fathoms

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March
Saturday 24th. Stiff breezes from the South, I sounded the Channel abrest of the Settlement (the one outside of that in which the Dundass was lying) Commencing at 4 feet water, I started at the distance of 800 feet NbW from the usual landing place – There is sufficient depth of water for small craft within ¼ mile of the shore (Moored fore & aft) and ends in 7 fathoms near the Entrance, and I think room to swing – But at the Entrance there is not more than 2 fathoms at low Ebb. – between Wednesday & this day, the Brig discharged the remainder of the Stores, Bricks etc etc –

Sunday 25th. Blowing fresh from the South, weather fine – I accompany’d Capt Scarvell to sound the Channel between Battery Point and the small Island opposite, found 3 fathoms about Mid Channel at low water – the Brig [droped?] down towards the Entrance of the Channel in which she had been lying (viz) the inner one between the Main and the sand bank –

Monday 26 Clouday all day with frequent Showers of rain, Wind blowing strong from the South. In the Night it rained very heavy – Mr Burchell & self dined on board the Brig

Tuesday 27th Squally weather – agreed with Capt Scarvell on the part of Government to pay Capt Scarvell £ 12 for my passage to Sydney – he propose sailing to-morrow weather permitting – Indications of water in the well, at 52 feet –

Wednesday 28th. About noon left the Settlement to join the Brig – Mr Burchell accompanyed me on board, and the wind being at W.N.W. got underweigh but it having increased to nearly a gale

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and within a little of being low water, we were obliged to come to anchor opposite Tortois head & Sandy point, a little before dark, but not until we had laid aground on one of the mud flats opposite the former place, for about 1/4 of an hour

Thursday 29th. Same weather as yesterday Regret to be obliged to loos the opportunity of a fair wind, after being once out side the heads, but it blew so very heavy that we cannot venture to beat out, and obliged to beat run higher up & come to anchor at the Sand spit –

Friday 30th – Wind more moderate, Got under-weigh before day light, with the intention of beating out, but the Vessel canting (or turning) the wrong way, lifted her anchor & turned onshore on the mud flat where we had to lay until the afternoon- tide, got off with the assistance of the Sealers Boat & beat down to Elizabeth Cove & came to anchor at dark –
Saturday 31st – Wind still from the SW. but more moderate, Got under weigh at day light, but could not beat out before the Ebb tide was had done, and obliged in consequence to come to anchor near the Entrance, a little under the lea of a prospecting Point of land on the West Shore in 7 fathoms – None of the charts have described the sand bank in the passage, correct, it extends further out, and lies nearer to Phillip Island, than the Main, it is also connected with Sandy Point on the main, & lies I believe N, to S, nearly nor is the Coast line described correct, the line of direction of the coast from the above projecting Point under

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which we lyed, to Cape Schanck is WSW ½ W *

[side of page] *Refer to my own Map, & chart of Western Port & the surrounding country –

[side of page] + It also appeared to me that if by mistake a vessel got in here and the Wind blowing hard from the South she could not get out again, nor could she proceed on, nor is there any Bay or Cove –

At 4 PM got under weigh, but with the loss of the anchor, the ring of it having broke, but we were not aware of the loss until the Iron Cable was hove in, nor had the Vessel drove far from the spot in which we had first come to anchor – In this place we found very little tide either flood or Ebb., it appears to me to indecipherable be confined to the East side of the Entrance, for this reason, - As the sand bank which joins the Sandy point on the West shore, extends so far South towards the Entrance, at the same time approaching the Phillip Island side at the outer end, consequently contract the passage, and leaves the Channel entirely on the East side, and as the sand bank must naturally of course keep back the first part of the flood, as well as the latter part of the Ebb, thereby occasioning a back water it is natural to suppose that little influence of the tide can be felt on the opposite side to that which the tide is comeing To a person unacquainted with the place, and at a time when the sea is calm, they would suppose that there is nothing to impede their progress, or if they saw breaks (which would appear much nearer to the Island than the Main) they would suppose the Channel to be on that side next the Main, in both cases they would be wofully mistaking, for in the latter case they would get jamed in between the sand bank & the Main, + [see ‘side of page’ above] and in the former the it is more than probible they would find their mistake out when it is too late - When

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When we left the port it was just after a SW gale, the sea in consequence was very great, and had not the Dundass been a superior sailing vessel, we should not have been enabled to leave get out at this time, or rather after we got at a distance out, the sea was breaking at a most precarious rate, upon this which I suppose to be the continuation of the sand bank, to within two or three miles of the Entrance – A birth must be given to a reef running out from the Island 2 or 3 miles inwardly from the Entrance – The wind not being sufficiently strong to take us clear of the Entrance before dark, and the flood tide being about to set in, we round up some distance and came to anchor under the first reef in 6 fathoms, but no sooner was the anchor down than the a light breeze of wind sprung up from N.W. with some appearance of its increasing, Weighed anchor and again stood out against the flood tide. About Midnight abreast of Grants Rocks.

Sunday April 1st – At daylight this morning the wind had increased to a strong SW -er with every appearance of its continuing, all sails set, Cape Wallamai North of us - & Cape Liptrap in sight – Noon the wind increased to a stiff Gale, with a cross sea – [but none on deck?] frequent squalls of rain Wilsons Promontory in sight – at 4-30PM passed between Wilsons promontory & Rock Rodondo – between this remarkable headland a singular formed Island, the Dundass seems to fly, I not withstanding the heavy sea

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that was running she rolled very little nor did she take a drop of water on deck. Course from Weston Port ESE to Wilsons Promontory (by Compass) – At dusk Sealers or Diosma Islands nearly out of sight astern – Midnight every appearance of a continuence of the breeze – distance [indecipherable] 154 miles

Monday 2nd wind the same, fine & steadey & a fine run all night – At day light, land which I at first took to be the Ram head in sight ahead, but we did not pass it (7 am head) until about 1 P.M.
[*at sun rise carried to end of Journal]
At 4.30 rounded Cape Howe - course from Promontory to this E.N.E. – towards midnight wind moderated a little, dist. [indecipherable] 187 Miles

Tuesday 3rd – at 4 oClock this morning the Wind shifted to East and then NE. continued a short time – from that time till midnight of Thursday 5th Inst. It has blown nearly a Gale from N.W. to NNW. Mount Dromadery has been in sight the whole time to leeward

Friday 6th About 2 this morning a light air of wind from the South afterwards shifted to the West and blew fresh, at daylight a Brig in sight on the Weather bow At 10 passed her close, it proved to be the Farne of Sydney, loaded with lime bound for Port Dalrymple, but having sprung a leak in the Basses Straits and the wind proving contrary obliged her to return to Sydney to repair both pumps [wear gains?] - Noon opposite the Pigeon House 10 or 12 Miles from shore – 4 PM passed Jarvis Bay – At 6 breeze increased

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from SSE – all sails set – Sholes Haven West dist about 3 leagues – Course we have kept since daylight North by Compass, or N ¾ E due course, allowing for the variation, nearly 8 °

Saturday 7th – a little after daylight dark it blew quite a Gale from the South and with a very cross sea hove too – At 2 AM saw the light at the Entrance of Port Jackson – 5 made sail under close reef topsails – 7 Entered the heads of Port Jackson, the Brig Farne ahead, and a ship (which afterwards proved to be the Elizabeth (Collins Commander) from England with goods & Passengers) astern, got a pilot on board & made sail – At the time of our entering the heads a brig was going outbound for New Zealand – The three Vessels beating up together, but the Dundass was at anchor in the Cove more than half an hour before the Farne, and one & half hour before the Elizabeth – came to anchor at 11 AM Mr Nicholson the Master attendant came on board & I returned to shore with him. Wind SSW. & SW. This ends my Journal of five Months, wanting two days –

April – 1827 – Made my report to the Governor Governor Darling, I received 1280 acres of land for my services –

* Throughout all these journeys, the Huts made, were what may be called a lean too, or one side of a Tent & until the last journey mearly thatched with bushes or young boughs of Trees, & no Blankets to lay in, but the last trip I had 2 Blankets to answer the place of thatch, which when kept tight will keep out any rain, we also carried a blanket for each person

* this note to be carried back to page 73

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* Note in page 80, to be imbodied when copied – At sun rise, could just desern the tops of the highest hills of Kents Group bearing about S by W. I must confess that it gave me some satisfaction to see, (although a very distant view ) the barren and secluded Islands on which (the Westermost) I had been wrecked in the Brothers /,of which I had a share, & the command,/ in July 1816 occasioned by an Easterly Gale, & parting from both anchors, when returning to Sydney from Kangaroo Island, & Van Diemans Land on this inhospitable Island my Crew & self became inhabitants and existed for ten weeks upon Seal, Peng Wins  Penguins, Fish, & the Wheat / part of our Cargo/ which washed up on the Beach, this we boiled & eate as firmaty which by mixing a little Tallow with it, we acquired such a liking for it, that when the Brig Spring arrived for us to take us off, I could not relish the bisket but would rather have had the Porridge – The scarcity of Seal & Peng win, notwithstanding their very disagreable & indecipherable taste, we relished also, a proof that hunger finds no faults – The fear of starving on this unfriendly Rock occasioned us to make a boat, after the fashon of a basket then covered it with Seal Skins sewed together, after this it was rubbed over with seal oil, in this frail basket Boat, six of the men had made up their mind to take their departure for Port Dalrymple, their sail was made of some New Zealand mats, made square, with paddles instead of oars, the mast could not be struck but with difficulty as it was [shrouded?] in all directions, 2-10 Gallon Kegs of water provisions /Salt Seal, the remains of a Pig which swam

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Swam on shore, at the time of the wreck, roasted Fish, & some boiled Wheat enough to have lasted them for a Week. When everything was provided as far as our slender means would admit, the Mate took his first Command & with 5 others left in the morning with the wind at North, but they had scarcely got clear of the passage between the Islands when the Wind Chopped round to the SE & blew a gale, they in consequence came back, in this I was glad, for I was getting very uneasy for their safety, I was also glad to find that the frail bark fully answered my expectations, sailed well before the wind, but a little too high above the water, taking too much hold of the Wind, or rather the wind took too much much hold the Wind of her, this I altered the following day by cutting her down a piece, but before compleated the Brig Spring arrived, & saved us any further trouble – Having anticipated, that the smell of the skins & oil which covered the boat, would attract the Sharks, they (the Crew) were provided with 2 boarding pikes & an old harpoon and indecipherable if they saw them comeing towards their Boat to jab the pikes /if they could/ into their head, the plan succeeded, as  for they had not gone far into the Stream, when the men found it necessary to try the experiment – The Boat having answered so well in this instance, Mr Hume & myself made two of a similar construction, but covered it with a Tar pauling, to cross the 2 Branches of the Hume River in our journey to Western Port & Port Phillip, in 1824, having previously made a boat of the body of the cart, to cross the Murrumbidgee river

[Transcribed by Robin Mathews, Ros Bean for the State Library of New South Wales]