Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales

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Jy-Oct-1852

"City of Poonah" built of teak, 900 tons register owned by Green. For continuation of this narrative, see A312.

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Ch.1

Parker Snow. Voyage to Port Phillip 1852

The vessel in which I had secured my passage, was the City of Poonah, a fine ship of 800 tons register. She was chartered to carry out a number of female Emigrants – "distressed needlewomen" – whom a benevolent Society in England, under the patronage and direction of a well known member of the legislature, and his estimable lady, had selected for the purpose of thus trying to relieve and improve their condition. Of this Society and its workings, little need now be said. It no longer exists, but, its object was most praiseworthy. Nevertheless, it wanted a better knowledge of mankind than was evinced by sending a number of young females on a long voyage without better guidance and protection for them. The scenes I afterwards witnessed, and the attendant results, proved what I now say; and, however much they may be lightly thought of or spoken about by us men in general, still, it is painful to the mind, when calmly recalling such facts before us, to reflect upon the probable fate of many whom I saw for the first time, young and innocent, embarking on board that vessel. A man need not be a preacher or a stern moralist - neither of which can I lay claim to – to see and pityingly declaim against certain evils. The roughest and most indifferent of men cannot help but feel occasionally for the lot of those who, often

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by our own selfish acts, become lost to good society and their very name. Woman, no matter what she is, should ever be held sacred by man. If he cannot do her good, let him never do her harm, nor add to the bitterness which – however much she may try to disguise it by frivolity, and outside display – she undoubtedly must experience. Many of those on board the C.P. I was convinced from what followed must have been thus situated, despite the care taken in their selection, and if I allude to the subject now, in illustration of passenger life at sea, it is but to express my regret at their sad and helpless position. Forty single women for four months pent up on board a ship amongst some two hundred other passengers, most of them young men, and with no other protector, besides the Captain and Surgeon, than a middle-aged matron! Is it any wonder that strange, and sometimes deplorable consequences ensued? On the contrary: it would be wanting in a knowledge of human nature to expect otherwise. However, the idea of the Society was good, but many circumstances – especially the excitement connected with gold discoveries – rendered it abortive. Further on, a few illustrations of this will be given.

The C.P. also took on board a number of first and second cabins, besides many in the steerage, and when I joined her at Gravesend she was tolerably well crowded. She had a large crew of sailors and officers, with no less than eleven youngsters called Midshipmen" – sons of wealthy families desirous of their learning nautical life, and willing to pay a good premium to the well-known owners of the ship for the boys taking a voyage to sea. This, however, is a bad way of educating youth for a seaman’s life, and it shows how fast my native country is merging into the snobbishness of aristocratic ideas, even amongst the trading communities. In America I have often seen, and, in various voyages, met, sons of wealthy and educated families, serving before the

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mast on board Whalers, and ordinary trading ships; and the names of Dana, Melville, and one or two others I could name in this City of New York, show proof of what such men can do. In my young days it was necessary to do the same. Though of what is called in England gentle blood, I had to serve as a boy and perform every humble office on board, - many of my duties being such as, of late years, when myself in command I have rarely found an inclination in youngsters to perform, and seldom ordered them to do. Literally I had to come from the forecastle to the quarter-deck; and, thus, I think it folly for boys to try and learn a nautical life by jumping on the latter part of the ship at first.

On arriving aboard the C.P. I found the usual excitement reigning amongst the Passengers. Some of them, I could soon see, were from the interior parts of England, and were as much strangers to a ship, and probably to London, as they were to the lands whither they were bound. Not a few of them were in a pitiable state of helplessness. The vessel, itself, seemed to bewilder them. Where to go, - what to do, - how to keep out of the way of bustling sailors on the upper deck, or how to find any way of their own in the thronged, dark, and dreary looking lower deck where steerage passengers were located, was beyond their comprehension. It was laughable, though reserving commiseration, to behold the efforts men women and children made in striving to find the berths allotted them. But, at length, order was restored. The ship’s Agent, with his Clerks, aided by some of the officers, regulated the passengers, and, at an advanced hour of the night, quiet reigned on board.

The arrangement of the vessel, as to her human freight, was somewhat as follows: on deck, there was a forecastle for the seamen, and abaft, was the poop for first class passengers and the Captain. Under the poop, were cabins extending to the main hatch

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for second class Passengers. Then came the "Needlewomen", partitioned off to themselves, and beyond them, in the forward part of the ship, were the Steerage Passengers. In the hold were the usual Stores, Provisions and Cargo. The extra Baggage belonging to Passengers, was stowed under the Main Hatch, and accessible, once a week, to those who required anything from it. Mine – all that I needed for the voyage – was in my cabin, and, therefore, I had no occasion to trouble the ship.

The Cabin I had selected was roomy, with a good side light, porthole, and deck light. It was not far from the main hatch on the starboard side; and I had fitted it up with all that convenience and comfort which is habitual to a sailor. I had shelves for my books, a bureau and desk to write on, and lockers for such wine and extras I had brought with me. My sleeping berth was arranged tastefully and almost luxuriously after a fashion of my own, under my wife’s superintendance, and thus, with everything well fastened and secured, we were nearly the same as if in a house on shore.

The following morning, at an early hour, the tramp of feet overhead aroused us, and gave me a hint that the ship was getting under way. I went on deck, and going on the Poop calmly watched the progress of our departure. Day had just begun to break, with fine weather and a light breeze. Several boats were alongside, and many were the adieus and tender partings which took place between friends who, to the last moment, had kept together but who were now about to part, perhaps for ever. It was affecting. Here, I could see an aged parent with his grey hair, and furrowed cheek, embracing the manly form of his son, while the starting tear trembled in the eyes of both. There, a sister weeping round the neck of another sister, who, under the care of some family, was about to venture alone across the seas: further on, brother

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bidding farewell to brother: friend to friend, and nearly all repeating, again and again, the last words "Goodbye! Goodbye!"

But, there was one scene that touched me very forcibly as I moved near the gangway to assist a visitor on her return to the boat. It was a parting between husband and wife. Long and bitter was that farewell embrace! They clung to each other, absolutely forgetful of everything around them, and, for the moment, thinking of no one but themselves. Never shall I forget that last farewell. It was hardly possible for the wife to leave. She seemed determined not to part; and, now the final moment had come, the husband also was overpowered. Tears streamed down their cheeks, and, only when the Anchor was up and the vessel moving, did the poor wife tear herself away and descend the ship’s side, as her husband rushed below to hide his broken feelings. Strange indeed is the existence of man! We give to each other ties of the strongest kind, and then, frequently sever them by voluntary partings, perhaps for years! Who can blame the evil that too often follows? Who can wonder at the desolate wife occasionally falling? Who should be surprized at the husband going astray? Moralists may answer this to themselves; but those experienced in the world and in Nature’s Laws can only negatively reply.

The C.P. was now fairly under way, with all sail set, and a steady breeze wafting her swiftly along. Soon we approached the Mouth of the Thames, and felt the swell of the German Ocean. This speedily produced amongst many of the passengers those premonitory symptoms which tell of the horrors connected with seasickness. But, fortunately for them, the wind abated as the tide failed, and the vessel therefore anchored at the Nore. And here let me give a few words of advice to those who purpose taking passage on some long voyage by sea. It

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is not a mere trip of a week or two; nor only a passage of a month across the Atlantic, that has to be prepared for: but it is a long journey on the sea, of sometimes not less than four and a half months, and rarely under three months. It is, to very many, a most tedious and monotonous passing away of existence. The dark blue sea, and the faint blue sky, unrelieved by sight of land or other ship, possibly during the whole voyage, and with change, alone, from calm to storm, and storm to calm, makes a weary, weary time of it to those who have not the philosophy to create a new life within themselves, and the forethought to prepare the means for it. There is not one man however who undertakes a passage to any distant land but what may, if he chooses, make that passage, however long it is, not only endurable but agreeable. There are various occupations and pursuits which may well and profitably employ the mind at sea; and the arrangements of the present day though still very far from what they ought to be with respect to most passenger vessels, are such, that any of them can be undertaken without the slightest let or hindrance, and without interfering with the economy and regulations of the ship. To the man of intellect and taste, I need say no more than that in his cabin he can find if he pleases and if he has a good vessel as quiet a little room for study as he would probably meet on shore. Once accustomed to the motion of the vessel, and he can write or sketch with ease; and when he needs relaxation, the wonders of the mighty ocean, teeming as it does in every part with life, or with something to attract the sage attention of the thinking man, will give him all he seeks. To the artisan and mechanic, the labourer or handicraftsman there is also much to employ their time agreeably; and I cannot do better, perhaps, than refer such to a very useful

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and very cheap little work on the subject lately published, Kingstons [indecipherable] Voyager’s Manual. But in order to experience this enjoyment, it is absolutely necessary to give some portion of your time, before embarking, to a consideration of, and preparation for it. To provide the mere necessaries for bodily comfort on the voyage is not enough: mental food must be considered as well. Some take the Chief Cabin, some the second cabin, and some the steerage of a vessel; and according to their fancies and their means they fit it up or have it fitted up in the best manner possible. Now, I have been in many different ships; and my own experience bids me take that part of the vessel where I can be most free to myself, and can live after my own fashion. I do not say that all may find my plan the best; but I give it as a hint to others who may fancy taking a trip round the world.

In the first place I choose my ship, for good height between decks, for being seaworthy in every respect, for being well officered, properly ventilated, and without that disagreeable leakage some "crack vessels" are often subject to. I then, according to my means, hire a certain space, so many feet long and broad, in the most airy and convenient portion of the lower deck abaft. I fit this up myself, after having it cleansed and painted anew. My desk, my table, and my sleeping berth, baggage, books and other necessaries are all arranged with due regard to economy of space, and to convenience. Everything is well secured and fastened; bookshelves so fixed that not a book can leave its proper position when the motion of the ship is great; and all articles, likely to be required, so distributed and placed as to be at hand when wanted. This being done,

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and whatever extras I want in the shape of delicacies, laid in, besides an ample supply of mental food, I calmly settle down to the prospect of a few months sojourn there; and when the hour for departure has come, I am quite prepared.

I mention this very briefly, because, it is possible that there are many who will yet take a long voyage to distant lands for information or amusement, and who may be thankful for any hint, however slight, afforded them. There is a great art in making oneself comfortable at sea and it is surprising how little trouble is necessary to effect this. Tact and personal management are all that is essential.

The morning after we had anchored at the Nore our vessel again made sail, and by the evening arrived in the Downs. There we remained until, with a fair breeze on the third day, we once more got under way, and soon run through the Straits of Dover. As evening came on, however, unfavourable weather commenced. The wind veered round against us, and began to blow in heavy squalls. The short, disagreeable sea of the Channel, produced a great deal of rough motion in the ship; and this, added to the darkness of the night, the nearness of the land, and wildness of the scene, caused most of the passengers to retire below with anything but pleasant feelings. As midnight approached the gale increased, and at one time it was a question in the mind of the captain whether it would not be wise for him to run back for shelter in the Downs. But he held on; and after shortening sail as required, he brought his vessel through. On the second day afterwards, we anchored in Plymouth Sound, where we were to receive

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other passengers.

In two days more we were quite ready for sea again; but, strange to say, we had to wait much longer in consequence of the following superstitious adherence to not sailing on a Friday.

It was Thursday evening when the Captain and Pilot came on board; but no wind came to help us until past midnight, when, a breeze springing up enabled another vessel ahead of us to be off, though it was useless to us, as our Captain said he would not sail now the Friday had commenced. To show the absurdity of this superstition I may observe that this vessel never returned to her home port, was wrecked and totally lost before her voyage had been completed. The consequence was that we remained at anchor until Saturday morning, when we got under way and, after discharging the Pilot stood down Channel with a light fair wind.

It was not till the following noon that we took our last look of Old England and fairly stood out to sea. I well remember when this occurred; and with what different feelings it was viewed. The faint blue line of land appearing in the distance behind us, and gradually receding from our sight until it was lost in the misty vapour that hung upon the horizon, was beheld with very opposite emotions by those who gazed upon it. I could see many a wistful eye and anxious glance, exchanged between husband and wife; parent and child; as though the last tie which had bound them to safety was now on the point of being severed, and they were at length convinced of their having fairly embarked on the dangers of a long and perilous voyage. While the land remains in sight, or is known to be near, there is a something telling them that they are not quite cut off from all those social friends & companions they had passed so many hours with; and from whom they had parted with unfeigned regret, but the moment it has disappeared, a chill comes upon the heart, and more serious thoughts arise concerning the future. Among the many who had come on deck there were some who looked upon the land of their birth probably for the last time, [indecipherable] for ever. There behind that distant, and now fast fading coast were the hearts of cherished friends and kindred, from whom their destiny had severed them. There too existed all that could make man’s life one unvaried scene of happiness and joy. Home! Home! Alas it was there, where the waters, fast are covering the misty view of land; now, now it has to be sought elsewhere. And the husband turns his gaze upon the wife’s pale cheek and glistening eye, and a trembling thought steals across his mind as to whether he has acted right in thus leaving that home. And not until the merry voice of childhood strikes upon his ear, telling him of hope, and energy, and necessary provision for the future, has he courage to look behind, once more, and say, "Adieu, my native land, adieu!"

And she, that wife, as with a lingering, yearning look, she strains her eyes, towards that dear land now fast disappearing.

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What are her feelings? We cannot tell. They are hidden beneath the veil of patient uncomplaining, and the strength of hallowed love. Her husband, and her children are around her: and though a sigh may perhaps escape her breast, she yet uplifts her eye in confidence and affection’s warmth to him who is her all, and is resigned.

Some there were, however, who beheld the departure of England from our view, as a cause of rejoicing instead of regret. These men gave vent to the bitterness of their heart in occasional anathemas upon the country whence they had come, and upon all it contained. Perhaps, in some instances their country was well quit of them, and could dispense with their love, as easily as she could laugh at their hate. Others there were who, being from Ireland, could not be expected to enter into any of those warm and ennobling feelings which actuated the more loyal Englishman in speaking of his country & viewing it for the last time. With them it was apparently a matter of indifference whether England was rising or falling in the distant horizon. They had left their home weeks before; and when they landed in Liverpool or Plymouth they had stepped upon, what in their mind was already, a foreign shore. To hear any slighting remark from them, therefore, was but to be expected; but I turned, with scorn on my features, from him who, standing not far from me, at the time to which I am alluding, spoke in terms of the vilest reproach against his native land and her glorious flag [indecipherable] other than, what a fool I was to say this! now! Oh how I hate the accursed symbol of cruelty & injustice. To me it was ever the object of my idolatry; and, though I had many times before left it on long and perilous journeys, still I could not behold it fading from my view again

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without emotion; nor do I envy him who could. Well may it be said that "it charm from above seems to hallow us there," for never, in all my wanderings have I been able to dispel that charm.

On the present occasion, it was uncertain when I might return. I was bound to a distant part of the world; and even years might elapse before I should be able to again visit England. The uncertainties of life: the perils and dangers attendant upon a voyage like the one I had an idea of afterwards embarking in, were great drawbacks to my hopes in that respect. Yet, I did return in safety, and have once or twice since left England and may return to it again. Well may the Mahometans exclaim so often "Allah [indecipherable] Allah", for there is great meaning in the words.

It was moderate and calm when we took our last look of England; and this was the reason why so many of the passengers were on deck at the time. There had been, as yet, no additional symptoms of seasickness among us; but, on the following day, when we had left soundings, and got into the long swell of the ocean, a foul wind, and blowing withal pretty strong, cleared the decks of everyone but the seamen, and those who, like myself, were no novices at sea. As the gale increased, the motion of the ship was very violent; and, the sea rising at the time, it was found necessary to put on the fore and main hatches to prevent water getting below. The consequence of this was to increase the dismal aspect of the lower deck, and thereby add to the sufferings of the poor passengers who were now prostrate under the attack of seasickness, which came upon many in its most aggravating

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form. Knowing from experience how much good may be effected by a friendly voice, a cheering word or helping hand at such a moment, I left the upper deck, and went below, to render any assistance in my power.

The C.P. had been fitted up to carry as many passengers as could possibly be stowed away; and, therefore, every portion of the lower deck from right forward to right aft was occupied. The Steerage passengers were forward, then followed the needlewomen – who had the best and most roomy place of all – next came the second cabin passengers; and lastly the first class passengers. Between the needlewomen and the Steerage, was a partition – a fixed bulkhead - ; but dividing them from the second cabin passengers was only a sort of open grating all round the main hatch. This as will be afterwards seen was almost as bad as nothing at all; and to myself and wife and other married persons, unfortunately near this hatchway, it proved to be most unpleasant and before the voyage was out quite disgusting. But more of this [indecipherable]: at present let me turn to the state of things below, among the passengers. This, however, though bad, was not so much so, as on board of general [indecipherable] ships; and to give a better idea of such a scene, I will describe one I was on board of some years before.

Like the present so there did I visit the lower deck and found husbands and wives, mothers and children, all laying about in most helpless confusion. At every motion of the ship, at every fresh gust of wind, or sea striking against the vessel’s side or upon her deck, an exclamation for mercy, for help; of regret at having left home, or of despair at being now unable to reach that home, escaped the lips of some one; while every now and then some unfortunate might, or hapless female would lose her hold and be seen flying to leeward in the utmost wildness. Groans, crying, screaming, moaning, were intermingled with the din of restless kettles, pots, and pans that had been dislodged from their places, and were to be seen thrown backwards and forwards in all directions. What with the darkness of the place

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the confined atmosphere, unpleasant smell, and the retching of every one around me, it was almost enough to drive me speedily on deck again. However, seeing that matters could not be much worse, I set to work, and persuaded several of the men to rouse themselves and assist in restoring a little order in that scene of pandemonium like confusion. To the women, who fancied every moment was to be their last, I spoke encouragingly, and by some trifling assistance rendered to a few who needed it, continued to make some improvement; though nothing that I had in my power to give, could tend to remove the wretched suffering many endured from sickness. It was indeed enough to make anyone pity them; so utterly helpless did they appear. Death was even called for by some, to relieve them from their deplorable state. I could not but call to mind my own condition when several years before I had first gone to sea. I was then a boy of fourteen years old, and belonged to a Brig sailing out of Liverpool. I had crossed the Channel to France, several times previous to that, and had been what is called seasick, but this time I was really so. When it first came upon me I remember throwing myself down upon the covered skylight, and laying helplessly there until told by some one to go below. I did so; but how or when, I hardly know. I crawled into the sail locker and for nearly four days remained as though dead to everything. I believe it was very rough weather; but rough or smooth I seemed to care not. I could not eat; and the very smell of food was intolerable. But my thirst was apparently unquenchable. How I existed so I know not; but at length.

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I revived. I went on deck, drew in long draughts of the pure sea air and after a thorough cleansing my appetite came suddenly upon me. I ate voraciously; and lucky was it for me I felt so hungry then, and for some time afterwards at meal hours, or else I think, I should ill have managed the hard fare set before me.

Thus was it with me then; and I could, therefore, well feel for those who were now in a similar and perhaps worse state of suffering. I had, too, seen many severe cases of sea sickness in my various voyages. One poor young lady of a rather delicate constitution and who was a passenger on a former trip to Australia did not get over the attack until we had passed the Equator, a period of more than five weeks; and I have known old seamen to be often troubled with it on commencing a new voyage. I, myself, have experienced a touch of it, only in crossing from Ostend to Ramsgate, or Dover to Boulogne in a Steamer; and during my late voyage to the Arctic Seas I frequently felt the disagreeable sensation in rough weather. I do not know of any certain remedy for it. I have tried several presumed antidotes, by giving them to parties who suffered: but, the surest thing I have yet found, was "Cherry Bitters"; which, proved at all times, in the individual case to which it was administered, perfectly efficacious in removing the nauseous feeling.

The state of the Emigrants’ department may, from what has been said, be well imagined, though not accurately described. I remember that I was glad when my visit was over, and I could again ascend on deck. There, I enjoyed the roughness of the weather, for, it seemed to purify me from the oppressive and faint smelling atmosphere below.

The following morning to [indecipherable] after our leaving Plymouth was more calm; and the deep blue water around, told to the practiced eye that we

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had fairly entered the broad Atlantic Ocean.

There are few persons living at home who really have any very correct ideas of the Ocean. They imagine it to be a vast mass of water whereon ships sail from one part of the world to the other, and where there are whales, and fishes of various kinds in existence. Beyond this they know nothing, or but little more. They comprehend not its beauty, majesty, and power. They see not the wonders it contains; nor behold in it ought that can excite the curiosity of the learned, or bestow upon the intellectual mind a pleasure. Yet there is much, very much that can do so. Let the contemplative mind dwell upon this subject for a moment; and let him, who is still a youth seeking for instruction, gather somewhat more concerning it.

What is the Ocean? Why it is, as has been well expressed, Buckland’s Bridge, [indecipherable], "a great mass of water covering nearly three fourths of the globe, and is crowded with life, perhaps more abundantly than the air, and the surface of the earth; and the bottom of it, within a certain depth accessible to light, swarms with countless hosts of worms, and creeping things, which represent the kindred families of low degree which crawl upon the land." Its bed is diversified by rocks, [indecipherable] mountains, deep valleys, and plains, and "is not less beautifully clothed with submarine vegetation than the surface of the dry land with verdant herbs and stately forests." It is known to be, in some parts more than 27,600 feet (nearly 5¼ miles) deep; and in many other parts 15,000 feet. It is the cause of the earth receiving that nourishment which gives life to vegetation and food to man for from its surface arise those vapours, which drawn upwards by the heart of the sun are formed into clouds, and, are then distilled as rain. Springs, too, are often indebted to the ocean for their existence; and from those springs come first the tiny stream, and then the mighty river, which

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for miles and miles, in its course back to the sea, fertilizes and enriches the land. The ocean too is full of grand display, or of gentle beauty. Sometimes its waters rise in waves to mountain heights as though volcanic action had been set at work beneath: at other times its surface is as smooth as a toilet mirror; and as peaceful as a slumbering infant at the breast. Occasionally it is seen as if on fire; nor can any attempted demonstration to the contrary lead to a conviction that it is not so. More often is it covered with that brilliant and dazzling light, emitted by minute animals dwelling within its bosom, and causing the track of a ship to be marked with a phosphoric flow indescribably beautiful. Luminous patches will here and there present themselves upon the water in calm still nights; and the pretty Nautilus sailing by, gives a pleasing feature to a sunny day. The Whale, the Shark, the Swordfish, Porpoise, Dolphin, and a vast number of other marine animals play upon its surface, or are seen diving into the wondrous depths below; while the flying fish pursued by some voracious enemy springs from its natural element and often falls upon the vessel’s deck. Added to all this we behold in the Ocean, a powerful display of the wisdom and providence of God. Were it to increase or decrease its waters but a little, what might not be the injury it would cause to man; and were its regular tidal action, and its daily motion to cease, man could no longer dwell on earth, nor beast exist. The air would be poisoned with the stagnant mass, and life everywhere be ended.

Such then is the Ocean; and it is upon that Ocean we are now embarked.

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Ch. 2nd

For the next few days nothing of importance occurred. Gradually the passengers became accustomed to the motion of the ship, and could keep the deck without falling. Very few of them remained seasick long; and before we had crossed the Bay of Biscay several of those who had most suffered, were quite relieved from it. A Frenchman, bound from Marseilles to St. Malo, had come across our track, exchanging a few words with us; and a passing breeze or two, of but little account was all that we encountered in this once celebrated Bay. Indeed its terrors are now no longer dreaded; and I may mention, as an instance, of the disregard shown of them, that some few years back, I went in a small iron steamer from England to Lisbon. The steamer was intended to ply on the river Tagus, and for the first few days of our passage thither all went well. But on the fourth or fifth, a heavy swell arose from the Southwest, driving us in towards the S. East corner of the Bay. Our engines were not of sufficient power to make head way direct against it; and evident symptoms of a storm presenting themselves, we did our best to reach some place of shelter without delay. The gale met us, however, before we had reached our desired haven. The heavy surges of the broad Atlantic came rolling in upon us

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and every now and then our little iron boat shipped green seas fore and aft. Sail was made to help her – though all the canvass she possessed was but very scanty, - and gallantly she struggled on, quivering at every fresh attack of the sea, and fairly rebounding at every blow. However, we succeeded at length in getting her a shelter, somewhere near Cape Ortogal in Spain; and, before the entire fury of the gale came on, we had her safe at anchor, under the most rigid scrutiny of some bandit looking soldiers, who seemed to have possession of a fort abreast of us on the shore. What they were, or who they were – Christinos, or Carlists – I never knew; but this I remember, that the moment we appeared, with Portuguese (the steamer was for a Portuguese Company, hence the colors of Portugal) colors hoisted at our peak, two boats full of armed men came towards, and speedily formed a guard around us, while an attempt at conversation was commenced. This failing, owing to our ignorance of Spanish, a fresh communication was made with the shore, and a third party came off. Among the latter was one who understood a word or two of French; and our situation and destination were thus explained to him. The fact of our vessel being built of Iron, however, seemed to astonish some of them, for they repeatedly scrutinized and sounded her; and, though we lowered the flag of Portugal and hoisted English colours, I believe we were still looked upon suspiciously during our stay there. For the three days we had to remain we were not permitted to land; but at length the wind dropping to a calm, and the sea becoming smooth we were enabled to proceed, and finally reached Lisbon two days afterwards.

Twenty years back it would have been considered a thing too hazardous to venture crossing the Bay of Biscay in so small a vessel, and so novel a constructed craft. Nowadays, however, nothing is thought of it.

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When we arrived a little past the latitude of Lisbon we fell in with a Portuguese vessel. Before we could well make out her flag, it was thought she was English, and being near, letters were written, the boat lowered, and our Second Mate sent to her. I went with him; but directly we got alongside it was found what she was, and that the Captain did not speak either English or French. I hailed him in Italian, as well as in French, and at last one of his sailors who could speak Italian came to us. I had nearly forgotten all of the language, but I understood enough to ask the few necessary questions. The vessel proved to be the "Novo Africano" from Angola – Coast of Africa – bound to Lisbon. She had been out from Lisbon, as I understood, 15 months; and well did she look as if she had; for her bottom was covered with weed & barnacles, and though a clipper in appearance, she sailed very slow. There were several black females on board, and the brief glance I had of them struck me as to their being of a very fine race. A great number of parrots and other animals I noticed and heard making a noise, but our stay was limited to a couple of moments, and we then returned.

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On board of us we have a number of Mr Sidney Herbert’s Needle women as Free Emigrants. Every need of praise, every ennobling reward is most assuredly due to him and to his excellent lady and their coadjutors for what he and they have done in this cause. Nothing too much can be said in favour of the cause itself.

I am suddenly arrested in my writing. There is a great noise on deck: shouting, trampling and voices in dismay: I must up and see what it is.

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I again resume my pen; but, alas! have to chronicle a most unfortunate occurrence. The noise I had heard upon deck and which had interrupted me as I wrote was occasioned by an accident to one of our sails. It was thus caused. We have had a fair wind for the past eighteen hours, the wind being right aft – that is, blowing from exactly behind us. So far it was most agreeable to us; but, in addition to the wind, and not at all wanted, there has been a very heavy swell from the westward, and, consequently, as we are steering to the Southward, right abeam of us, causing the ship to roll greatly. Our studding sails have been set the whole time, and it has so happened that the halyards (or rope that pulls up the sail) belonging to one of them broke and let the sail in the water. This was the cause of the outcry; but just as I reached the deck a more sad and louder cry.

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Soon after this, a most unfortunate occurrence took place on board of us. I was below in my cabin, when, hearing a great noise upon deck, I went up to see what was the matter. Just as I reached the deck I heard a louder cry, and a call for the Doctor and making up to the larboard gangway I beheld our chief mate lying senseless with a broken limb, our boatswain disabled, and one of the midshipmen slightly hurt. The cause of this was soon perceptible. The studding sail boom had snapped in two and the end part had come heavily in board, clearing the Mate’s head by only an inch, and striking him, as he leaned over the bulwarks, on his side and thigh, crushing it with the blow, and felling him to the deck. The boatswain, who was standing near and assisting to get the sail in, was caught round the hips by a rope attached to the stu’n’sail and carried, or rather jammed, hard up against the ship’s side with the whole force of the sail, now drifting in the sea though held to the vessel by the tackling belonging to it, pulling upon him. The Midshipman was only triflingly hurt by some ropes, I believe, hitting him; and he was soon himself again: the boatswain was speedily released from his painful position, but was too much hurt to go again on duty for a day or two. As for our chief Mate, he was speedily attended to by the Doctor,

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and ultimately slung in a Cot and taken below to his own Cabin, where, in great suffering, he had his thigh set, and by the evening was much easier than we feared he could be.

As it may be supposed so sad an accident threw a great gloom over all the ship. The Captain felt it deeply, and was most assiduous in personal attendance upon his chief officer. Several times did he come down and assist in fanning him, and administering restoratives, and I was greatly pleased to see beneath his truly seamanlike exterior a sharp authoritative manner of speaking, the sympathies of a tender and humane man. In talking to me about the accident he made the remark that "he could suffer anything himself, but could not bear to see the slightest suffering or pain in another."

What little was in my own & my wife’s power, we did for the poor patient. I offered anything for his use that the ship possibly might not have; and my wife set to work and made a light curtain for his door, so that all the small quantity of air that could possibly get down into that department of the vessel (for all the officers were mingled among the second cabin passengers) might

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get to him. I mixed some of my own Chloride of Lime, the Doctor’s not being handy, and also sprinkled the floor with scents and cooling preparations.

The alarm occasioned by this accident was however unfortunately made greater by a silly outcry on the part of the needlewomen that "a man was overboard", and this made some of our lady passengers quite ill.

But quiet was at length restored, and by the evening the usual harmonious order of the ship was again as before.

I have alluded to some Emigrant needlewomen being on board; and it pains me to have to speak of them as I am compelled; but to show the reader what ship life in passenger vessels really is, I will now proceed to quote from my Diary and not state anything from memory. With reference to these women I find myself saying that "though Mr Sidney Herbert is most justly entitled to every credit for his kind and noble humanity, yet I fear that, at all events in this present case, he has been somewhat imposed upon. For myself, I have been greatly surprised and disappointed. I had formed an opinion concerning those who were recipients of Mr Herbert’s bounty very different to that I am reluctantly compelled to form respecting the ones I find on board here. Perhaps there may yet be an improvement: perhaps a variety of causes may have brought about such a relaxation of propriety and right manner of behaviour as I have noticed among

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the greater portion of our female Emigrants; and not myself only but most of the ladies & gentlemen in this part of the ship, which adjoins the women’s Department have observed. I am most anxious to judge of them favourably, nor can I reconcile what I see and hear, with what I have read and had reason to believe concerning them and their sisterhood who have preceded them. Several there are, very different to the rest; but the majority appear the most noisy, careless, impudent, shameless talkers that I have yet found on board a ship. I will revert to them again at another time."

Continuing to quote from my Diary, which, for the remainder of the voyage out, it will be better for me to do, I find my next remarks relate to the observance of the Sabbath Day.

"We have as yet had, I observe, not two Sundays at sea, and on each, Divine Service on Deck: that is, on deck for all but the needlewomen. The latter are read to by the Captain, while the Doctor and Mate went through the Liturgy to the rest above. But alas! it is only a form. There is neither heart nor spirit in it. Some prayers are read and read right through (for instance the first one in the Service for the Navy in time of Wars) that are absurd for us, and others are misread and hurriedly gone over. How I love Divine Service at sea when it is as it ought to be; but as I have too often seen it performed, I fancy it were almost better there should be none at all.

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to depend upon the Captain’s official register. Upon arriving at Port Phillip I got my old one repaired, and also bought another.

The Outward Voyage

On the 8th of July 1852 we were in Plymouth Sound, ready for sea; and, if I remember rightly, waiting a wind to carry us out. It was a Thursday, and midnight came before the breeze we wanted had arrived; yet, strange to say, we would not then sail, because Friday morning had commenced, though another vessel near us, up anchor and proceeded on her voyage with a light air on the quarter. Our Captain said he never sailed on a Friday; and his orders from the owners, he added, were to that effect. Consequently the whole of Friday we remained at Anchor; but as soon as the ominous day was passed, and the Saturday had begun, we let go our hold of the ground, and under a press of canvass stood out to sea.

Now with reference to this superstitious feeling in respect to sailing on a Friday I may observe that it is far from being so prevalent as it used to be among sailors; and I was very much surprised, in the present case, to see it attended to; more particularly as the vessel was one of the large Indiamen belonging to Messrs xxxxx & xxx, and commanded and officered by those who, I should have thought, would have disregarded such a thing. However, to show the fallacy of putting any faith in such superstitious practices I have to add that the result was precisely the reverse of what is usually anticipated on such occasions. For, this very vessel, though not sailing on the Friday when she would otherwise have departed, was wrecked before she had completed her voyage; while in the case of another vessel in which I returned

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home, we actually left Sydney on a Friday, and after a remarkably fine passage, arrived off Plymouth on a Friday having run close in to the Eddystone to land our mail. Thus the sailing on a Friday is not so productive of evil as many sailors, even in this our day of increased knowledge, are apt to imagine.

For the first few days after leaving Plymouth we had light foul winds, with nothing worthy of particular notice. The Meteorological journal accompanying this will show the state of the wind and weather; the latter being generally fine and clear.

On the evening of July 23rd, and in Lat. 34.04’ N, Long. 16.36’ W, we got the first brush of the NE trade wind. This continued with us until August 1, and was fresh and steady, with a clear sky for the early portion of it, and a gloomy haze during the latter part. We lost it in Lat. 16.7’ N, Long. 25.36’ W, the wind changing gradually from NNE in the beginning of the Trade to ENE and East at its conclusion, and then dropping into calm and variable.

Three days after this we had a remarkable wind, which, with the exception of one day, the third from its commencement, blew steadily and fresh from the SSW continuing from that quarter for ten clear days, eight days being successive, and during which there was the same unvarying breeze, and the same unvarying fine weather. We caught this wind in Lat. 10.33’ N, Long. 23.26’ W; we run with it to the S.Estwd. to Lat. 4.36’ N, Long. 12.43’ W; then tacked to the Westward, having the wind with a little more Southing in it, until we lost it in Lat. 1.30’ N, Long. 17.45’ W.

The following day we crossed the Equator, with light Southerly airs and calms; weather fine and occasionally clouded. The day after, viz. on the 18th August, in Lat. l.37’ S, Long. 20.24’ W we caught the S.E. Trades, at first squally and unsettled, then more steady for the seven days they

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lasted.

Now with reference to the SSW wind, I have just mentioned, I find this remark entered at the time in my journal:-

"August 12th. This morning tacked ship to the westward, having, in the opinion of the Captain got quite near enough to the African Coast. The steady wind we have had for now some days, is most remarkable; and I cannot but attribute it to the prevalence of S.East Trades well to the Northward in a more westerly longitude than we are at present in; the which Trades would, in consequence of the formation of the coast line, become more westerly as that coast was approached; just as we have the wind now. For, the current of cold air coming from the South, (the sun being well to the northwest yet) and filling up the heated air of the northern tropic, would naturally diverge a little more to the westward as it came within the influence of the burning sands of Africa, and thus form a kind of local wind at this particular time of the year, in accordance with that theory which explains the causes of the Trades. When the bend of the coast was passed, such wind I should expect to be more southerly. At all events I think it might not have been amiss if we had stood awhile on this tack to the S.Estwd., though against the usual fashion; for we should probably have got a few more degrees of Easting, and have crossed the Line well to windward for the SE Trades. As it is, we are now standing for the old locality, the stereotyped longitude, about which or towards which, it is deemed by most Captains, essential the Equator should be crossed in."

With the SE Trades we had fresh breezes, squalls, alternately clear and cloudy, with a cross sea, and the latter part a few showers. On the 25th August these Trades left us in Lat. 20.19’ S Long. 29.04, near Trinidad Island,

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the wind thus from that quarter, and consequently against us, during the remainder of the passage. Henceforward, until we had entered the Bay leading to Port Phillip, we had nothing but winds with Westing in them; and the result of my observations respecting these winds I will now briefly state.

In the months of September and October, and between the parallels I have named, any Easterly wind may not be looked for; and if such wind does come, it will be light, with moderately fine weather if to the northward of East, but with fog and thick weather if to the southward of East.

The most prevalent winds appear to be those from NW to SW, and blow strongest when from that part of the compass.

They sometimes shift suddenly in squalls, between those points, but rarely go out of the quadrant thus formed; and when they do, decrease in strength the farther they proceed to the Eastward.

Should they back against the sun, that is to the Eastward by the North, they die away when about NNE, and after a slight calm, spring up again northerly, and so round to the Westward: and I believe never, or very rarely to the Southward by the East.

Should they go with the sun, that is to the Eastward by the South, they become moderate in the SE, light in the East, and after dying away to a calm spring up in the NNE, and thence round to the Westward.

[Transcribed by Judy Gimbert for the State Library of New South Wales]