Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales

William Stanley Jevons - 'Remarks upon the Social Map of Sydney, 1858'
B 864

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B 864 - William Stanley Jevons.
Remarks upon the Social Map of Sydney, 1858.

Notes

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In this map an attempt has been made to represent the variations of social rank, and the division of the town into its social districts, the separation of these ranks into distinct districts; also to show the centralization of business or industry into certain parts of the town distinct from the residentiary districts, and the collection of all those kinds of industry which have are similar in origin or purpose round their own peculiar centre or centres.
The lines of communication, the chief places of public resort, the public offices of the public Authorities, the wharves where the sea & land communication join, the grounds provided for public recreation and other purposes are also marked, and in fact the whole internal organization or machinery of the City in Question is as far as possible exhibited.

The inhabitants of this town are first considered with regard to their residence; they are supposed to be divided into three social ranks of which the first (coloured red) includes all who may be regarded as gentlemen or ladies, including mercantile men, clerks, & other chief employees, professional men, chief shopkeepers, independent gentlemen etc.
The second class, (coloured blue) includes most mechanics or skilled artizans, shopkeepers, shopmen, etc. The third or remaining class (coloured black) comprises labourers, and the [?] lower orders.

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The part of the town occupied by the residences of each of their class is shown in the map by the appropriate colour, the intensity of which indicates the comparative density of this class of population. Two or more class colours may of course be superimposed on each other when it is necessary to show a mixed population. When the distribution of these classes on the map is contemplated in the connection with the Section lines showing the formation of the land & with the other data exhibited upon the map, several conclusion may be observed. The first class is divided between a town-centre & suburban districts. The town-centre is in the neighbourhood of the chief business centres, the chief Government offices & the parks; it is chiefly on elevated land. The suburban first class districts follow somewhat the trend of the the high land and are generally very distinctly separated from the lowest class residences. A large proportion of the first class residences
Second class res however situated in the are country villas or mansions situated quite beyond the limits of the town and of this Map.

Second class residences are more numerous & equally diffused, but are most thickly placed in intermediate districts at a short distance from the central parts of the town. Thus Woolloomooloo, Surry Hills, Strawberry Hill, Redfern, Glebe, Pyrmont, Balmain, & the upper part of the Rocks form the principal second plac class residenty. district of Sydney. There are however several thickly populated ones beyond the limits of the map such as Newtown, Paddington,

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Camperdown, etc.

Third class residences collect about a few distinct centres, or form part of the town peculiar to themselves, generally in the lowest or least desirable localities. In general third class residences appear of considerable age showing that the land has been long located. Durands Alley, the Rocks, the lower end of Sussex Street, the north part of Chippendale, & Market land are the chief & worst third class quarters.

As regards industry and business, it will be seen that the trade in food is the most widely diffused (as marked by strong black lines, the width of which signifies the comparative activity of business, i.e. the number of shops engaged in the trade), extending through all the residentiary districts, those of third class included.

The trade in clothes has a strongly & narrowly defined centre supplying chiefly superior qualities of clothing but there appear to be subordinate centres supplying the inferior qualities. There are very few ramifications of the trade.

The trade in Articles of refinement are confined to a small & very central space with only one or two ramifications.

The Banking or Monetary centre comprising the Banks, chief Mercantile houses, stockbrokers, etc. is very well defined & quite cent form of course the principal Centre of the town. The four centres named above do not quite coincide.

Physicians chiefly reside in the first class town residentiary district but to some extent distribute themselves amongst

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the neighbour nearer & more thickly populated parts nearly irrespective of class distinction. Boarding houses are of many classes & kinds, and are distributed accordingly amongst the more central parts of each class of district or around the marine centres. The legal profession has a centre of its own determined chiefly by the position of the Court.

Manufacturers are but little developed in Sydney.
The carriage of goods into the interior is chiefly by means of drays, and the accomodation of carriers, & their horses or cattle, the sale of food, the manufacture of harness, drays, carts etc. form a pretty distinct district centering at the Haymarket. Industry connected with horses, cabs, etc. is rather diffused, but the residences of cabmen etc. are chiefly in third class districts.

It may be observed that in the original laying out of Sydney a great mistake was made; a large extent of land surrounding Farm Cove, extending thence to the high ridge of Hyde Park & including both the promontory of Fort Macquarie & Lady Macquaries Chair were reserved for parks or other public purposes. The whole of this would be extremely valuable both for as affording both wharves for marine trade & a good central position for the other trades; at present the main part of Sydney is much confined on the east side by this reserved land and the shipping is driven to inferior wharves near Millers point etc. The part of the town reserved should have been that steep & awkward to some extent useless & objectionable part included between Sydney Cove & Darling Harbour extending to Millers Point & Dawes Battery.

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Riley Estate and Surry Hills. Oct. 2nd. /58.

This is a part of Sydney which possesses a peculiar & by no means picturesque appce.
It is principally built upon hills or rather a low range of land, which is a southerly extension of that which forms Hyde Park. Instead of hard white sandstone we here find thick beds of a fine blue & white or slatecoloured shale often as hard & easily splitting as to resemble flag stone but soon weathering into soft clay. This shale overlies the sandstone on the range afterward pursuing a westerly direction forms smooth swelling connecting hills of Grose Farm, Camperdown & Petersham. As might be expected such a soft shale rock yields soft & little durable rock is soon worn down by the weather into smooth swelling slopes & rounded summits, between which the drainage excavates small vallies. The surface of the ground is extremely infertile and usually is formed of a hard dry clay, so that the parts of the town built on shale is very bare & unprepossessing, but near on the top of the slopes, good earth & flourishing gardens prevail. Such clay or pipe clay as can be obtained near Sydney fit for making bricks or pottery (as at Camperdown) probably consists of alluvial debris of these hills of shale.

As the drainage of the parts of the town in question must be an easy matter, and as they are elevated, a salubrious climate might be expected of them, They are as

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yet only partially occupied by houses although building has been proceeding lately at so rapid a rate that probably twice as many houses now exist there as five years ago.
Those parts longest & most thickly built up, curiously enough are the more remote owing probably to the injurious effects of legal difficulties. The whole space is divided up by three long parallel streets (Bourke, Crown, & Riley) forming the straight continuations of the streets of the same name in Woolloomooloo. The South Hd. Road which is the N. boundary runs diagonally as well as the Old Botany Road which forms the Eastern boundary; Some of the cross streets also are oblique, or variously crooked owing probably to their having been formed before any uniform plan was adopted.

The houses of older date may chiefly be divided between the first & third classes or into Gentlemens & Cabmen dwellings. The former are completely in colonial style, of two stories, surrounded with large verandahs & surrounded by flourishing gardens, planted with Norfolk pines, figtrees, bamboos, aloes & other half tropical peculiar plants. The further parts of Crown street & several & Bourke street, & the neighbourhood of the Botany Road chiefly abound with these villa residences & have a very peculiar & pleasing appce. The small cottages are chiefly of brick or weatherboard & are in many places very wretched; the inhabitants assume corresponding characteristics although not to the same degree as in more crowded parts of the town. The patch of buildings around Marylebone, & divided

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into Marlboro & High Holborn Streets etc , is composed of these third class cottages with one of two the exception of one or two pretty first class houses. The other old cottages chiefly lie between Bourke Street & Botany Road. Near South H.R. are also a certain number of first or 2nd class houses of former days. Recent erections are springing up very rapidly in the form of rows of two storied brick or stone houses of small size, but of neat appce. & probably pretty good construction. A great number of detached wood stone or brick cottages of one storey & with verandah are also to be seen, & form not unenviable if small abodes. The houses on the whole are likely to be less crowded than in Woolloomooloo & to have fair back premises with a separate entrance.

Between Goulburn Street & the S.H.R. are a multitude of small cottages arranged in narrow lanes which are often most oddly constructed of timber and were probably imported & put up soon after the gold discoveries; it is to be hoped that they may not last long.

There are perhaps about half a dozen small manufactories in this part - such as a flour mill, tannery and some builders shops. There are a few shops belonging to dealers in food & clothes scattered over nearly the whole of the area, & often of respectable age. The South Head Road between Darlinghurst Goal & the junction with Liverpool Street is a business thoroughfare of great pretensions & is already nearly built up with a line of good sized shops. It is evident that as

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the Surry Hills, & the Paddington & Waverley suburbs increase in size the South Head Road from its physical position will become central & important as regards trade & manufactories. At present the whole district is a residentiary one, the second class of occupants prevailing and appearing likely to drive out both the first & third; of the first class there are very few or no new houses erecting. - Some inferior cottages near Marylebone of 2 storeys, with small dirty rooms (prob 4) were advertised to let at 10s per week, & in another part near Burton Str., some neat new cottages of rather larger size could be had at 15s per week.

Just to the south of Surry Hills is a patch of alluvial flat land occupied by Baptists & other market gardens or by the villa residences spoken of above, but with these exceptions the neighbourhood is entirely shut in by the dreary sand flats & hills of the Botany Country, which are still the property of the Government. In some places the sand hills are making incursions, & one hill is overwhelming Marylebone of which several old wooden houses are buried up the the eaves.

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The part of Sydney bounded by King George & Druitt Streets is of mixed operative & residentiary character. York is much occupied by wholesale stores or by petty manufactories. Clarence & Kent Street contain only the residences of labourers, or small tradesmen or artizans, while Sussex Street which lies close upon the maritime part contains numerous shops, smiths shops, timber yards, & similar places of business. The waterside is formed into a number of wharves belonging to private owners, & a large quantity of produce is here landed from small coasting vessels, some of the principal commodities seem to be timber (cedar, ironbark, bluegum, etc) coals, corn, potatoes, wool, bones, skins & tallow, shell-lime, firewood, shingles, fencing materials etc. and there is of course a varied assortment of English manufactures which are distri exported from Sydney for distribution along the coast.

The residences in this part are mostly of very low character usually consisting of small two or three roomed cottages of considerable age, & now much dilapidated. Bricks are the most common material but perhaps one fourth part of the whole are built of weatherboards & are in very bad condition. Clarence & Kent Street are almost entirely fronted by such cottages while a few parts, such as that between Druitt St. & Watts lane are densely crowded with them. The street having been levelled since & much cut down since these were old houses were erected, they often stand high above the street & are reached only by steps. The interior part of the six blocks of land forming this district are to a considerable extent occupied by

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small bad conditioned cottages to which there is access by irregular alleys or openings; there are a few distinct courts of two storied cottages, But it cannot be said as a general thing that this part is densely populated, much space being left as dirty irregular shaped yards; there are no proper back entrances as in Woolo. & elsewhere. The residences of this neighbourhood as mostly of the third class, including many of vicious low character;
there is a certain proportion of the second class & a few houses of the first class which are perhaps exceptional. Labourers, draymen, seamen, hawkers, journeymen, policemen, etc. chiefly inhabit this part, but there is a remarkable number of lodging & boarding houses, which generally consist of small dirty cottages, and are really brothels or little better. During the day women, of repulsive appce & bad the worst character may be seen hanging about the doors, awaiting the night debauch.

Between York Street & George Street is a block occupied by the back premises of the shops fronting the latter street & by other industrial establishments chiefly. The Market takes up another corner & is surrounded of course by valuable business premises. There are also several chapels in this part. This Area may therefore, be said divided into three contains three or four elements, such as maritime trade, general wholesale & retail trade, manufacturing industry & lastly a third class residentiary element, which later lies chiefly in the centre. With the exception of the Rocks, & of Durands Alley no part of the city stands lower in the social rank than this residentiary area. The furniture of such small cottages consists usually of a table, a few old chairs, a grid iron, a small sofa, generally used at night as a bed, & perhaps a side table & cupboard or shelf. Privies are I think often very scantily supplied in this neighbourhood.

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Woolloomooloo. Sept. 30th. 1858.

....to the south lies on a valley like slope which rises very gradually from the flat shores of Woolloomooloo bay and is bounded on the West South & East sides by the high continuous ridge of sand forming Hyde Park, the line of Old South Head Road & the rocky areas of Darlinghurst. On the west the elevation of the bounding ridge is something less than 100 feet, on the other sides from 150 to 200 feet.

This distinct area is divided into two parts by the important thoroughfare of William Street which with the Southern boundary, the old South Head Road form the only easterly outlets of Sydney, and consequently possess the whole traffic of the suburbs lying to the Eastward. William Street is occupied by many residences of a superior class (£200 - 300.)
by a few of inferior size and by various retail shops which are rapidly increasing in number.
Woolloomooloo is laid out in a number of series of straight rectangular & generally equidistant streets of considerable breadth, which are now being formed & raised to a proper level. Whenever in some future year the whole of these streets shall be completed & well paved and sewered, Woolloomooloo, especially its upper parts will be surpassed by but a few districts of similar social characteristics for regular orderly appearance & general sanitary capabilities.

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The part of Woolloomooloo lying between William Street & the S.H. Road is almost entirely residentiary, chiefly of 2nd order but in some parts especially towards Darlinghurst with an intermixture of 3rd. The houses are all mostly newly built upon small alotments of land, and in perhaps a majority of cases not conformable all uniform with adjoining houses in the plan. The materials are nearly always brick with only a few of rubble stone, & still fewer of wood or iron. A large proportion of the houses have two stories & four rooms with perhaps a detached kitchen behind. Many however have only one storey with 2 or 3 rooms & often the second storey only contains a single attic room. There is in no case a third storey (excepting William Street) in cellars.

The main streets, running due N & S and the Cross streets, at right angles are unexceptionable, but being placed rather wide apart, the main streets at a distance of 100 yards, centre to centre, and the cross streets (William, Stanley & Liverpool) at about twice the distance, a series of very narrow back streets have been formed of which a part is altogether shut in at each end as in the figure. These back streets originally perhaps intended only to afford a second back entrance to the principal houses are rapidly becoming built up by the additional smaller houses; in time they will form crowded dirty lanes, removed from the public view, difficult to drain or ventilate & little better than closed courts. It would be much

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better to place the main streets both (direct & cross) at a uniform distance of about 150 yards, with secondary parallel streets of less width running completely through them at intermediate distances.

The occupants of Woolloomooloo are chiefly those employed as tradesmen & workmen, shopmen clerks etc employed in Sydney. It is essentially a residentiary district. The direct main Streets have a few detached shops chiefly grocers, small miscellaneous dealers, chemists & clothes shops. A very few manufacturing processes are carried on.

Each house has a small yard enclosed by split fencing and at the end is a privy. Many houses have no back entrances. A comfortable cottage of 4 or 5 rooms, may be had for 18 or 20 s. per week

Oct.2.

A small block of land enclosed between College Street and Stanley Street, Yurong Street & Liverpool Street is densely crowded with small or moderate sized houses apparently of some age. Fronting Hyde Park in Burdekin Terrace, of first class houses, but immediately behind are many of third order, and of very unhealthy appce.

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Lower Woolloomooloo lies to the North of William Street bordering on the flat shores of the Bay. It is of much the same character as the upper portion Woolloomo., containing residences for the most part of the second class with some of the first & a few of the third.
Dowling, Forbes, Bourke, & Palmer Streets especially near William Street are fronted by many first class houses, neatly built in rows, but the crowded part about Riley & Crown Streets is chiefly of second & third class character. North of Woolloomooloo Street the houses are pretty uniformly of the second class; This last portion is only a perfectly level alluvial flat only a few feet above high water, and one piece of land is uninhabitable from the spreading over it of a water the drainage of a large part of Woolo. which flows down a natural creek. The flattest part of Woo. must certainly be unhealthy from the damp, miasmatic air which must lie upon it at night, but this bad area terminates at a slope upwards. A distinctive Character of the blocks of land between Woolo & William Street, is the thick population of the second or third class which inhabits the system of back lanes,
remaining behind or across the principal streets & in fig ( ). The back lanes are very regularly laid out so as to be quite out of sight of ordinary passers by, and are but very narrow. They are to a great extent built up by small 2 or 4 roomed cottages so as to render the population here very densely aggregated. Almost the whole buildings of this neighbourhood are of very recent date, perhaps not exceeding 15 years, so that at present they have not the unwholesome dilapidated appce of similar buildings in other places. At present the inmates are almost entirely respectable tradesmen & others of the second class.

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Woollomooloo

Below Woolo Street the back streets are differently formed & are wider and more open, so as to lose the objectionable character. They are not yet fully built up.

On the East Side of Woolo the only outlet is by William Street, the steep rocky range of Darlinghurst & Potts Point enclosing the rest. Along the Slope of this range several long streets have been formed, almost devoid of any cross streets. Dowling Street is the last main street, Judge Street, Duke Street, & Brougham Street are parallel back streets of small width; the former two are pretty closely occupied by small second class houses.
Along the shore of Woolo Bay is a small maritime trade, chiefly in firewood, lime & timber, there is also a Saw Mill (Fairfax's) & a few other kinds of industry are carried on. Brothels are said to exist in the flat part of Woolo. and some houses of the first class bear no good name, but it is uncertain how far such statements can be received.

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Camperdown.

About equal proportions of second & first class residences. Bishopthorpe is a newly build second class addition to this part. Thence I walked along the West part of the Parramatta Road to Camperdown which is a considerable well defined suburb build upon a square allotment of ground about a mile from Sydney. It is surrounded separated from Sydney by the Government lands of Grose Farm, & is surrounded on other sides by unopened lands belonging to private owners. Camperdown is a place of some age, comparatively few of the Cottages having been built in the last few years. It is doubtless sustained to a considerable extent by the traffic along Parramatta Road, the main line of communication with the interior previous to the construction of the Railway. The timely subdivision of an estate into suitable & cheap allotments was probably its origin.

There is not a single residence in Camperdown of the first social rank; the majority are of the second with a large sprinkling of the third. Many of the dwellings are mere log huts sufficiently squalid in their appce. There is a corresponding number of the inhabitants of low character. A few manufacturing trades such as brick & earthenware making, Cart making etc. are carried on in Camperdown or the immediate neighbourhood. Pig feeding or offal from the slaughterhouses orange-packing or trading in horses & cattle are also among the employment of the place. which in turn proved to depend on the passing traffic. There are several public houses, of some a certain age, & some dozen shops; it is noticeable that of six public houses within a quarter of a mile of each other in Camperdown, three are closed & deserted. It is a place where sly-grog selling could easily be carried on.
There is a small church & a small brick Catholic Chapel

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Durands Alley

That part of Sydney where the lowest & vicous classes most predominate & where the abodes are of the worst possible description. is the square block of land contained between George, Goulburn, Pitt, & Campbell Streets. Towards the first & last streets it is occupied by shops or business premises, among which are no less than seven public houses or inns & two or three livery stables, a stable yard of large size.
Adjoining the Hay Market & forming the first entrance to the business parts of Sydney, large accommodation is required for travellers, stockmen, carriers etc from the country & their horses or cattle teams. A number horses are also stabled here I think.

Along the Goulburn Pitt Street face are a varied row of residences, many of them bad but not stinkingly so, but while along Goulburn Street are little few except small & often wooden cottages, evidently containing inhabitants of low character. It is however within this block of land that the bad features appear. Several lanes of irregular angular shape proceed into it burdened by very closely packed & chiefly brick cottages, the dirty low appce of which defies description. Such is Durands Alley, some female inmate inhabitant of which is punished almost every day at the Police Court for offences chiefly connected with prostitution. I walked through these miserable alleys which are quite shut out from common view & almost form blind alleys. No more secure & private retreat for vice is afforded in Sydney.

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The Rocks

The range of land upon which the most important parts of Sydney are placed, assumes a very steep character towards it northern extremity which forms the western side of Sydney Cove. At Fort Phillip the elevation is about 150 feet and thence to the shore of the Cove the horizontal distance is only about 450 yards or 1350 feet (see section drawn to scale).
The greater part of the fall occurs between Cumberland and George Street when and in this part and the incline is here so sharp that horses & carts cannot ascend, and flights of steps are erected in several places. All kinds of businesses are therefore precluded, and this rocky slope from its disadvantageous form & position has been given up entirely to the cottages of the lowest order. All extraneous traffic too is shut out from these streets, partly because they are actually or in effect closed at the north end & partly because of their steep slopes & ruggedness. Thus Fort Street & Princes Street are both abruptly terminated & merely lead to the houses which surround them. Cumberland Street indeed crosses the cutting of Argyle Street by a bridge and proceeds on in a devious & uneven path to Dawes battery but it is quite useless for regular traffic. Along Harrington Street Cambridge & Gloucester Street the passage of a vehicle

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is a matter of difficulty and they all end abruptly in the Argyle Cut.

Thus with the exception of the lower parts bordering on George Street & of those near Charlotte place, residents occup and a very few tradesmen working at home occupy the whole of the neighbourhood. In Fort Street & Princes Street they are chiefly of the 2nd order with only a sprinkling of the 1st or 3rd.; these streets are well formed & present a pleasing & order appce with the exception of a few small dirty cottages (1st order) the appe prob remnants of former times. Cumberland Street at it's north end contains only houses of third or even fourth order; its southern extremity if chiefly of 2nd order but its intermediate & largest part is almost entirely of the first order. It is in the lower streets however that the peculiar features of the Rocks are seen in all their horrible intensity.
Small cottages constructed of stone or wood in convict days are here arrayed closely scattered almost without order, but partially observing the lines of streets formed in lines along the terraces of rock. Steep narrow passages sometimes closely built up with small houses form the only cross streets. As sewers or drains of proper construction are quite unknown here, as the streets are without even gutters, except such as the drainage itself forms, and as thus the transverse slope fall is very much sharper than the longitudinal fall, the drainage of each house or hovel swiftly trickles down the hill, soon reaching, in this case

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may be, the front or back of the next lower house.

In many places filthy water is actually seen to accumulate against the walls of the dwelling, soaking of course beneath the foundations & the floors upon above which the family live. In other places a drain is this accumulation of filth is prevented by a drain constructed beneath the floor so as to lead the filth quite through the house. Many houses are built but a few yards from a wall of rock over which various spouts & drains as well as a privy or two continually discharge foul matter of the worst description. What more unhealthy position for a dwelling can possibly be imagined. - surrounded by walls of filth exposed each morning to the suns rays & continually maintained in a constant state of moisture by new accretions of liquid filth.

The houses in this part is chiefly consist either of old stone rubble stone cottages of one storey & 2 or 3 rooms, often plastered & white washed, or of some recent brick houses of two stories. There are a few old wooden houses of the most dirty appearance but these have often been abandoned as quite inhabitable. Most houses have small & very dirty yards, without any back entrance, but in many places the small hovels are so closely and irregularly placed that all privacy is impossible. Horizontally, too, the irregularity is often so great that the eaves of one house cottage & [are] level with

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the foundations of the next.

The inhabitants of the Rocks especially the females are in keeping with their habitations and their dirty clothes, slovenly manner & repulsive countenances evidence their [?] low order. One young but intoxicated woman, whose wicked ugly dissipated face was further disfigured by a black eye & a bruised forehead, presented as striking a picture of the depth of vice as ever I saw, and a small thin shrivelled old dame, with a yellow brown face, & clothes of indescribable hue sitting in a poverty stricken room (in one of the dirtiest of the neighbourhood) afforded illustrated probably a later stage of a life of wickedness.

I have am acquainted with some of the worst parts of London, such as Jacob's Island, Golden Square, Lambeth, Drury Lane, Grenell Lane etc, & with the most unhealthy parts of Liverpool, Paris & other towns by no where have I seen such a retreat for filth & vice & "the Rocks" of Sydney. And it is the highest disgrace both to all the municipal authorities and the owner landlords of the neighbourhood that not the slightest sign of [amelioration?] appears. From these "Rocks" the beautiful blue waters of the Harbour are visible and the dark picturesque bushy shores & visible; a clear Australian sky is overhead, & dry invigorating breezes, strike refreshingly upon the person, & find their way into the foulest dwellings. Few places could be found more healthily & delightfully situated but nowhere are the blessings bounty & the beauty of Nature so painfully contrasted with the misery & deformity which lie to the charge of Man.

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A triangular group of small third class houses are contained within Elizabeth, Goulburn & Foster Streets. The houses are chiefly built in close rows of two stories elevations. There are also a number of detached cottages of in a very dilapidated condition & of considerable age. This part though is very thickly inhabited & of unsightly appce ; does not appear it is also very dirty & probably unhealthy as its situation is low.
About the neighbourhood of Sheriffs Garden are numerous cottages of recent construction and of every variety of form; they vary from the extreme of neatness to that of dirtiness.

Comprised between Goulburn Street and the S.H. Road and behind the main range of shops of the latter, is a close group of recent small cottages, chiefly of four rooms. There are several objectionable small lanes badly laid out, but there is in general an appearance of cleanliness as in Woolloomooloo. The inhabitants are of the respectable tradesman or mechanic class.

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Ultimo Estate.

A small third class district lies at between the head of Darling Harbour & Parramatta Street. It is formed by Victoria Street Ultimo Road, Valentines lane etc, & stands on rather uneven ground which slopes down into the flat shores of the Harbour. The irregular streets contain only a few scattered & chiefly slab cottages entirely of the third class. They are old wretched & probably very unwholesome, from the surrounding moist & foul flat land. They are entirely removed from all active traffic.

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Chippendale.

A very thickly populated neighbourhood is that compressed within the angle of Parramatta Street & its offset the Botany Street; to a part of it at least the name Chippendale applies.
Omitting the frontage to Parra.a Str. which is of course occupied by shops & public houses, & that to George Botany Street which contain a few first class houses, this area may be described as third class with only a moderate proportion of second class. It is divided into two parts by some open land & that the enclosures of Mr. Tooths brewery.
The northern part is formed by narrow lanes running at right angles to Parra.a Str. & opening into it; they are entirely & decidedly of the third class, Kensington St. being however a little better. Linden Lane however presents a shocking sight, It is formed by two long continuous rows of weatherboard cottages, quite uniform & uniformly wet abominable throughout. Not one of these cottages presented in its interior the least sign of refinement or comfort, that I could see; and some of them were deserted or occupied by persons so destitute as to appear deserted; but in most cases the bare filthy interior & the debased inmates well corresponded. I did not quite perceive why this lane was the resort only of the very poorest & lowest but so it was. Close in the neighbourhood were other exactly similar rows of wooden cottages such as Paradise Row, Teggs Row, and the social character of the inmates appeared analogous; In the Directory they are chiefly described as labourers, shoemakers, butchers, carpenters, laundresses etc.

Through the wasteland of Chip.e runs a fetid stream of clean sewage matter giving off vile smells; yet this liquid is allowed to collect in a large mud drain

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above the Brisbane Distrillery from which it overflows & drain runs down past the slaughterhouses & the lower part of the Glebe into Black Wattle Swamp Cove. Nothing can contribute so much to the spreading of disease as these streams & collections of foul water, which it is the custom even to pump up into water carts & spread all about the public streets.

A few buildings & shops of second & even first class are appearing in Abercrombie Place, & they exist in some degree south of Bank Street, but on the other side of this street there is little but third class dwellings.

The junction of Botany & Cleveland Streets is a place of some little business & there are many well built erections houses & shops. The whole of Chippendale is app on flat ground apparently of some fertility. It is shut off from all traffic & has be evidently been long appropriated to the abodes of the poorer classes. The regularity & closeness of the small cottages is strongly contrasted with the irregular & straggling arrangement in some of the worst central parts of Sydney as between Kent & Sussex Street; but this is scarcely an advantage. Chippendale somewhat resembles the cluster of third class houses to the East of the Haymarket.

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Redfern -

is a large square block of land with a blackish sandy soil, formerly belonging to a Dr. Redfern, who opened it out profitably as a suburb of Sydney. Rather curiously it contains all classes of houses, the third class prevailing to the west near the Botany Road, & many neat new first class houses lining Pitt Street & Cleveland St. Botany Street & the part near it have certainly a very miser wretched & unpicturesque appce, but are not so crowded by houses as to become unhealthy. Wooden cottages are very prevalent & of an age perhaps of 10 or 15 years; there are many log huts even yet remaining, indescribably disorderly & ugly in their appce. East of George Street or South of Redfern St however, the cottages are less thickly set & are much more neat & comfortable; wood is still a very general material, but a verandah covered by passion flowers or other creepers, & a small surrounding garden bright with a few simple flowers, do much to remove the base cheerless aspect of these suburban abodes. In Pitt Street as I have said are many first class houses surrounded with Native Fig trees or Norfolk pines standing in handsome gardens.

The ground on which Redfern stands is slightly undulated, rising to the South; it is on the verge of the sandy region which extends to Botany Bay; from its southern extremity we overlook a large cluster of houses entirely built within about five years on the Waterloo
Estate belonging to Sir D. Cooper

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This sudden appce of a whole suburban district is what can only be seen in a new or highly progressive country & in modern times. But no where but perhaps in Australia could be seen collections of such hastily erected frail & small habitation, devoid of even a pretence to ornament & in many or most cases belonging to, & erected built by those who inhabit them. Almost every labourer & mechanic here has his own residence or freehold or leasehold land & unpretending as it is to any conveniences or beauties, it yet satisfies him better than the brick built, closely packed & rented houses of English towns. An Australian second or third class suburb would not be taken for a permanent part of a town at all; it more resembles the wooden huts of a military encampment. In a great majority of cases the first erection plan only includes two small rooms, to which others & sometimes added afterwards; no two designs are alike & the materials are most various. I might enumerate many kinds of building them, such as with 1. Slabs or logs of wood,
2. weatherb palings or split wood, 3. canvas. 4. weatherboard, 5. tongued & grooved boards, 6. plain or corrugated sheets of iron or other metal, 7. brick, 8. brick & wood combined, 9. rubble stone, 10. lath & plaster, 11. Ashlar stone work, etc. I have seen some houses into which broken iron stone, & glass bottles enter as a component, while both the old wood & sheet tin packing cases is largely made use of, the latter especially for roofs. Split wooden shingles are alway almost always used for roofing, but corrugated or plain sheet iron

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patent zinc tiles, sheets of bark, or proper slates are also used. All these modes of construction may be seen in close succession & often indeed even combined in one house in such suburbs as Redfern & Waterloo Estate & the resulting mass of dwellings have the most comfortless & unpicturesque appce imaginable.

The extreme smallness of these dwellings is another important point, which has doubtless much influence on the health of the inmates. So long as the small cottage is really in the country, and the free pure air pervades every part, little harm perhaps results; but when a great number of such small erections are crowded together & the ground becomes saturated with foul matter, the vapours of which pervade the air both within & without, the results must be serious. If also a small two small rooms in which a whole family of 5 or 6 persons sleep be closely shut up at night the deficiency of pure air must be very injurious.

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Dec 2nd / 58. Pyrmont, Glebe Camperdown Newtown.

Crossing Darling Harbour by the newly erected & very respectable bridge which now reaches across it, I walked around Pyrmont which is a suburban village upon a point of land hitherto almost disconnected with Sydney except by water carriage. Hence it is entirely residentiary & almost devoid of any trade. With very few exceptions the houses are all recent & in good repair; they consist of small townlike cottages, small houses in rows, & a few which may almost be termed villas. The residents are of second class social rank, with very few of the first class & not more of the third. The site is healthy & upon solid sandstone; water I should think must be very deficient. The position is now excellent as regards the reaching the centre of Sydney so that it is well adapted for residences. Some trade & traffic will how also pass through it as so as the new road which is now being constructed across it to the Glebe & Camperdown is finished. The appce. of Pyrmont is very unprepossessing from the complete absence of all trees * & from the bareness of the sandstone rocks exposed cut away by many large quarries, which supply the largest part of the stone used for building purposes in Sydney. Many of the inhabitants are doubtless quarrymen, but some of them are located in small straggling cottages near to the quarries. Passing over Black Wattle Swamp Cove, by the embankment & bridge which are being constructed, I reached the better part of the Glebe & Glebe Point, comprising

* In former days it would appear that almost all the trees in this neighbourhood of Sydney were cut down for firewood; hence the intolerably bare & unpicturesque appce of many parts of the town, strongly contrasted with those few parts such as the Glebe point, Domain, Barcom Glen &c where the tall & somewhat elegant gum trees yet stand. Trees too are of some sanitary importance & affording shelter from the fierce summer sun.

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The Glebe

is a thickly populated suburb chiefly of recent date. The part which I now describe is bounded on the East by the Black Wattle Swamp creek on the South by Parramatta Street & on the West by the Glebe Road. A somewhat distinct part of older date than the rest is that between Bay Street & the Creek. It contains the slaughter houses which supply Sydney with almost the whole of the butchers meat consumed within it; these border the creek, and the waters of which bear away all the filthy refuse of the slaughter, becoming thereby thickened & coloured a light coffee brown tint. The foul mud deposited in the channel, giving off a fearful stench render this place as unhealthy & disgusting to one and all the senses as can well be conceived.

Yet on one side are a number of small streets or alleys, thickly built up with small cottages, situated but a few feet above the creek waters; they are almost entirely, as might be expected of the third class & of considerable age. The frontage to Parramatta street is chiefly occupied by wretched wooden buildings, & small shops. The remainder of the Glebe to the East of Bay Street is of no very wholesome or healthy appce being scarcely raised above the level of the Creek & the flat shores of the Cove, but to the West of Bay Street this land rises and a marked & agreeable change takes place. Numerous small cottages or well built rows of small houses chiefly of brick or stone are here found. They are pretty newly built and are not unduly crowded while the main streets or at least the corners are occupied by substantial built shops of 2 or 3 stories. Bay Street is wide & well

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placed for the limited traffic which must pass along it. Of the remainder In proceeding further away from Sydney the appce of the Glebe still improves. further There are innumerable small cottages of wood or brick probably built by the inmates, and though very little durable still for the present unobjectionable. Near the angle of Parramatta & Glebe roads is a slight hollow rather densely covered by rows of small houses. Some of these are of third class rank but the rest of the Glebe belongs to the second with the exception of a certain number of first class houses bordering the Glebe Road. This is a pleasant wooded road leading to the rural first class suburb of Glebe point, but from the sale of land on both sides of it, the first class rank in this part is not maintained. Excepting that the Glebe is almost entirely removed from business traffic & is contaminated by the slaughter houses, it has much analogy with Woolloomooloo, containing a similar arrangement of the several classes, chiefly alluding to elevation. The frontage to Parramatta Street is of course occupied by Shops or public houses doing a large trade, since they are the first or last which the traffic along the Parramatta road meets with. The innumerable small houses recently erected with great haste & often of the worst materials must soon deteriorate & become both unsightly & unwholesome. There is an old corn mill in the Glebe but with the exception of such domestic work as dressmaking, tailoring, washing, shoe making, etc there is no manufacturing industry carried on. There are a few retail shops, & some building yards.

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Sydney by Night

With a view to observe the social appce of Sydney during that early part of the night which affords freedom to vice of several kinds, I perambulated most of the lowest parts of the city between 9½ PM and 11½ PM. Although the outward appce of the streets & the behaviour of the people does not afford as flat more than very incomplete evidence of their social condition it is better than worse and can be easily observed, and the comparison of various cities under similar conditions must afford many conclusions of interest.

Starting from the Exchange on November 20th 1858, I proceeded North along Lower George Street, & active business locality. Here most of the shops were open (9½ PM) and but the attendant shopman, who seemed generally to be the proprietor or his wife, was sitting or lounging about only half a wake. Business if there were any, was very sluggish. There were a few passers by or a few persons lolling out of the doors, but on the whole quietness & propriety reigned. There seemed to be few or no streetwalkers as would certainly be met in an English town. On reaching Argyle Street, I turned up it as far as Cambridge Street along which I returned in a southward direction. This was not lighted with gas & by no means a smooth footway for a pitch dark night. Cold damp unwholesome smells assailed the nose combining with other disagreeable impressions of the place. But strange to say perfect quite reigned here; every cottage was closed up and the blinds drawn. In the lighter parts of the Rocks, Gloucester & Cumberland Streets there was a very little more stir; a few people gossiping at the corners, or moving homewards. Princes street was perfectly quiet excepting for the subdued

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murmurs of conversation inside the dwellings which was in almost every part of the town audible. The interior of all the dwellings too, with few exceptions appeared cheerful where a glimpse could be obtained. The family was generally round the central table or sitting about on chairs & sofa. The females were generally engaged in needlework, all were talking. In some cases the ‘gridiron’ or sofabed was prepared ready for sleeping in the room used as a parlour by day. Proceeding onwards by Charlotte Place into Kent Street I ascended the steps into the row of small houses named Clarence Lane or Street;
A mangle was at work here but otherwise all was quiet & closed up. In Margaret Place & Erskine Street a few men were about the public houses, and a few in motion. I then traversed various parts of Sussex Kent & Clarence Street. Little or no vice was apparent; nearly all the houses were closed; in some there were no lights; in many there was the murmur of good humoured conversation.

Of the public houses throughout the town I will now speak for all. They were all open but mostly empty or with only one or two customers. Those in the main streets & places such as George Street Haymarket etc were rather more busy. I only saw one drunken man the whole evening (in Sussex Street) reeling out of a P.H., and only a few instances of ale & other drinks being carried home. Indeed there was but little disgusting in the appce of the public houses. In one case however, a foolish looking man perhaps more than half drunk was treating a very unselect circle, although including the host hostess & their daughters to a very absurd & probably not very decent song, at which the young ladies appeared amused only within the bounds of modesty.

Approaching however the bad neighbourhood extending from Druitt St. to Goulburn St, there were a few objectionable

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Sydney by Night.

Symptoms. A wife in a low hollow uniform talking tone of voice seeming as if half spent in the oaths which it had through a long life so constantly brought forth, was upbraiding her husband with causing the death of his two sons; the oaths flowed out in that smooth unhesitating manner with which is the worst sin of deepest sin; they were the conjunctions & particles of her sentences, & her tone & words were altogether appalling.
Still with only solitary instances all was quiet in the neighbourhood.

The sky had throughout been cloudy & threatening; the weather rather close & warm. Now it began to rain. Not without some little hesitation I determined to examine Durand's Alley by night & then turn homewards. It was so dark that I could only find my way with difficulty through it. For the most part the cottages in the den of infamy were closed & quiet; one of the most wretched was open & contained a haggard shrivelled old woman & other low persons. How many of the most wretched & unhappy characters visible in Sydney must be liberated convicts retaining perhaps but a slight reminiscence of their first perhaps comfortable circumstances in England, & of their first steps in the awful downward race which ends but with death? As I came out of Durand's Alley two strong policemen entered & after enquiring at a few houses, entered one; they were doubtless inspecting a suspicious house, or apprehending some person who was taking refuge there. At the Goulburn Street entrance several girls were noisily sporting, almost the only ones of their class I saw.

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From Camperdown I walked up a connecting road bordered by a few similar cottages, to Newtown which is a large suburb of rather superior character. It is built so as to border the road leading over the elevated ridge which separates the flat swampy sands of Botany Bay from the stiff clayey lands & sandstone promontories of Port Jackson. This road leads to the village of Cooks River & a considerable number of first class residences in the neighbourhood. And there is also some traffic to the rural districts beyond Cooks River & some as far as Georges River, including farms, market gardens gentlemens houses & wood-cutting stations. The High Street as it may be called of Newtown has therefore an important appce similar to that of many villages in the neighbourhood of London. There are many good shops, inns, chapels, road side residences; there is a post office, a railway station, & the terminus of a line of omnibuses.

Passing further on along the road there are many gentlemens houses, & several first & second class residentiary districts under distinct names such as Enmore, Sydnenham etc are springing up. There are many market gardens & brick fields. There is only a small proportion of third class residents in the neighbourhood; there is however much increase in the village of Cooks River where shell-burning is carried on. As a whole the appce of the Newtown neigh district is pleasing compared with either Redfern on one side & Camperdown on the other.

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Streets may be thus classified -

1. Thoroughfare or main road which directly connects distinct districts & conducts the traffic between them.

2. Main direct streets, are those chief streets which divide up a district.

3. Main cross streets, are streets generally turn at right angles to main direct streets and are of less importance in width than the latter.

4. Back streets, either affording a second entrance to houses in the main street, or occupied by additional houses subsequently built of inferior class & size.

5. Special streets which only lead to some particular building, park or other place, & possess therefore no ordinary traffic.

6. Closed streets which are so shut in as to have no traffic except that directly produced by the houses or other buildings in it.

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Residences may be distinguished into four Classes as follows -

3rd. Houses inhabited only by labourers & others of low class standing, as evidenced by the small size & dirty disorderly condition.

2nd. Houses of limited size, 4 or 5 rooms, occupied by respectable tradesmen, shopmen, journeymen & other employees.

First. Houses of superior size & appearance belonging to the upper class including merchants, chief shopkeepers, clerks, professional men, etc. Also when in the country Mansions or villa residences, sep of considerable size & separately & specially erected.

The districts over which houses of these respective Classes entered are indicated by the following lines drawn over them, & the relative closeness of the different series of lines represents largely the proportion of the various classes of houses.

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Artists -- Grocers
Attorneys & Solicitors-- Music sellers etc
Auctioneers -- Pawnbrokers
Banks -- Physicians
Barristers -- Professors
Blacksmith -- Publicans
Boarding & lodging houses -- Registry offices
Booksellers -- Schoolmasters
-- Schools
Butchers -- Ship brokers
Coach prop. etc. -- Toymen
Chemists & druggists -- Tobacconists
Coach builders -- Watchmakers
Coach painters etc -- Wheelwrights
Confectioners --
Cordial man -- To be done
Drapers -- Timber Merchant
Farmers -- Ship trades
Founders -- Livery stables
Soda water man -- Eating houses
-- Clothiers

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Crown -- Eliz. Pl
Argyle pl. -- Druitt
Palmer -- Botany
Edward -- Mary St
Norton -- Gower lane
Clyde -- Duke
Riley -- Campbells lane
Bellevue -- Wool.
Kensington -- Charles
Bourke -- Frilers [?]
Eliz -- Paua
Burton -- GNR
Castle -- Goulburn
Yurong -- Parle
Alfred -- Morrison
Pitt -- Little Francis
Liverpool -- Junction lane
Campbell -- [Junction] street
Mac. -- Norton
Clarence -- Albion
Cumber. -- Bulls yard
? -- Bay
Sussex -- Harrington
Little Goulburn -- Hunter
Cheerful [?] lane
Phillip
John St 5 (Kent)
Kent
Curtulls [?]
3 Denison to Dowling

[Tables not transcribed]

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TOWNS

Remarks and Notes upon the Map of Goulburn.

The distribution between the several classes of dwellings are more than usually vague, the symbol • generally indicates a simple log hut but comprehends also a great many brick & ruble stone cottages, often built in rows. Larger sized cottages are placed in the second class (o) while only a few of the best houses in the town are placed in the first class (?).

Goulburn is very judiciously laid out upon a plain backed by a gentle slope & bounded on the low side by the Mulwarree ponds a small sluggish stream little better than a swamp.
The general form of the town is that of a lengthened rectangle with two wings inclined at a angle. The streets are rectangular straight & of the uniform width of 33 yards or about 100 feet. The square space enclosed have a length along each side of 250 yards, except where they are subdivided. The streets are flat and unformed, so that they are very dusty in dry weather, and instantly turn to soft mud in wet weather, but the slope of the ground is so uniform that water quickly runs off, and any artificial drainage is as yet unnecessary. The water of the Ponds is muddy but otherwise pure, and is used in the town; when Goulburn increases however it is evident that it is become very much contaminated.

Nearly one half of the shops or stores (s) cannot be otherwise distinguished because they deal quite in two or three or many more branches of business. Drapery ironmongery and grocery are generally united in one store and in many cases the collection of articles is most miscellaneous. Hay corn, dairy produce, teamsters articles, ironmongery, fancy articles ware agricultural tools, machines etc are often seem together. In the smaller shops, bread, fruit, cordials, confectionary, small ware, milk are generally united. The only really dlstinct kinds of business indeed, seem to be those of Butcher, watchmaker, apothecary, shoemaker, confe cabinet maker & a few others.

The very large number of hotels and public houses (viz. 20) cannot escape note. The town has at present the appearance of the utmost prosperity for a comparatively extravagant number of buildings are now being erected. Many of these are large handsome stores, or hotels.

Goulburn is essentially of a Metropolitan character; the its industrial production is entirely insignificant, [..?]beer, boots & shoes, a little leather, soap & candles. ale, flour, are the only manufactures. The main spring of all the activity

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Map of Goulburn]

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& wealth apparent is in the breeding of sheep & stock in the few distant ... but, as well as the getting of gold. It surprises me to see towns spring up without any visible support, & surrounded by nothing but the monotonous sterile bush.

There are only two considerable farms near Goulburn {within 2 or 3 miles}. These are however well conducted, and at one I saw a steam engine and threshing machine at full work. A great number of the huts or houses in the town have gardens, in which potatoes, indian corn, several fruits & a few other vegetables grow very successfully. The town is very devoid of trees, being built on an open plain. Bricks are a very common building material; good freestone can be obtained at some distance among the ranges, but the rocks of the near ranges consisting of very hard splintery quartz & clayslate rocks are used for rough work. Lime is obtained from a very good limestone found probably at Yass or Queanbeyan. Bark is scarcely employed here.

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TOWNS

Remarks on the City of Melbourne.

Our attention is strongly drawn to Melbourne by the fact that it is the chief town of Australia & perhaps the chief sea port of the Southern Oceans, and it is still more strongly arrested by the wonderful circumstances that it has chiefly arisen within ten the eight last years,
and were only that its site was only chosen 24 years ago. Victoria, then, is an instance in which we see a small state, with all its necessary & useful functions suddenly called into existence, and the study of such an instance must contain supply useful information.

Melbourne is essentially a metropolitan town, even more exclusively than Sydney. Of the total importations into the Colony 82 per cent pass through Melbourne, and 14 per cent more through Geelong which can scarcely be considered a distinct port. As there are few or no primary productive operations carried on near Melbourne, we have to study a body of some 100,000 persons of various qualifications contributing to the wants of some about 300,000 more who are distributed over the country & mostly engaged in the gold mining, squatting or agriculture. The occupation then of the inhabitants of Melbourne then are only engaged in receiving storing or transmitting goods to the interior, shipping the exports or bullion returned and in carrying out the general regulations of Government.
To this we must add such amounts of trade, production & governance as is requisite within the town itself.

The main trade of Melbourne is closely concentrated in the older part of the town or Melbourne Proper and within this area a further concentration is very evident towards the middle of that side which lies along the River Yarra. The centre of commerce or monetary transactions may lies at the junctions of Collins Street & Elizabeth, or perhaps between that point and the junction of Elizabeth & Bourke Streets. Collins, Elizabeth & Bourke Streets may then be considered the three principal streets & in the order here presented.

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The offices of the General Govt as might be expected are somewhat removed from the Commercial Centre, & do not exhibit any very distinct laws except that they are all within Melbourne proper & arranged somewhat symmetrically about the junction of Lonsdale & Elizabeth Streets.

Flinders Street one side of which is open down to the River Yarra is partially a marine Street, although a great proportion of the marine business is now naturally belongs to Williamstown or Sandridge, which are on the shore of the Port. Still about Flinders Street & Lane are found most shipping agents, & firms, The principal large merchants with their free or bonded stores. These latter are These stores are now often built of large size & in a substantial ... so that Flinders lane almost presents a similar appce to the vast ranges of warehouses in Liverpool London & other great seaports.

In Collins Street are most of the banks, & other offices of many bankers merchants brokers, public companies within a town or country.

Many of the principal retail establishments are in Collins Street but are found to an almost equal extent in Bourke Street spreading out from them on either side, so that the centre of retail trade is slightly differently placed.

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The site of Melbourne proper consisting of uniform & uninterrupted slopes, it has followed that business spread over it in a manner equally uniform, and that those who desired a quiet retired & pleasant residence could not obtain this in close proximity to the business centre. It was necessary for them to The great numbers of persons who from the year 1852 flocked to Melbourne naturally per sought business premises in the old town buying up [?] old residences but their own residence was placed in some part of the wide & [?] places surrounding the town, to which access by level road was not difficult.

The residentiary suburbs thus arising were the more distantly placed because the General Gov. reserved many large areas for future public purposes, & other tracts were of so low level as not to be secure from flood.

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TOWNS

Social Map of Ballaarat.

Of its kind Ballaarat is the most remarkable town in the World.
Discoveries of golden riches before unheard of were made over an area of a few square miles of bushy country otherwise of little value and without a name. Countless crowds of persons rush thither from all parts of the world & within seven years there is built the large & permanent city which I have been examining. The total population is represented at 40,000.

In such a town the ranks of society are of course curiously & unequally filled. Firstly there is the multitude of actual gold diggers & gold miners whose labour really supports the community of the town & to a considerable extent that of the colony. Among them are large swarms of Chinese, who must all be placed in the third rank. Of European diggers most all belong to the third rank, & retain alike under prosperity & poverty the same careless, improvident & drunken character. Many however, & especially those connected with the large mining undertakings may belong to the second class. But in addition to the diggers there are found a large class of dealers, chiefly retail who supply every essential article. Tools, tents, clothing & food are offered for sale in the greatest abundance & variety wherever considerable diggings exists, although it be hundreds of miles in the bush. These storekeepers chiefly fill the second class. In a large community like Ballaarat however, trade becomes very extensive & lucrative & many business firms business estate business firms of a wholesale character are established. The banking Cos. also are tempted to establish banks where pecuniary transactions of such large extent take place, & the merchants, bankers, & their clerks thus introduced, form an incipient first class.

In Ballaarat the first class generally have residences in the township in west Ballarat especially in the more westerly parts. A great number of second class houses are here also to be found or near it. Many diggers miners have there erected tents or small wooden houses; otherwise all diggers dwell close to the alluvial workings.

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Descriptive Map of the District of Illawarra. N.S.W. April 1857

[Transcribed by Jacqueline Lamprecht for the State Library of New South Wales]